DAY THREE

July 4th, Wednesday, 2019 hours

A campsite on a point on Kenny Lake. The point is next to an island that has a camp site.

GPS Location: N 48 degrees 19.087’, W 091 degrees 07.772’, Elevation 1312’

Lakes Traveled: Bell Lake, Unnamed Lake, Fran Lake, Slate Lake, Saganagons Lake, Maligne River, Sidney Lake, Maligne River, Kenny Lake

Total time: 9:32

Total miles: 14.75

It’s another nice morning and I was up at 0518 hours. Again, the same morning routine took place before getting on the water at 0734 hours.

There was a slight breeze from the northwest when I got up this morning on Bell Lake. The first portage from my campsite was only minutes away. It’s a 21 rod portage into an unnamed lake and a longer 74 rod portage out of the unnamed lake that leads to Fran Lake

The first, shorter portage had a steep section and then I paddled over to the longer portage that leads to Fran Lake. I took my large pack across and came back for the food pack and canoe. Well, about one third of the way back across the portage with my food pack and canoe I heard a loud snap or crack. The canoe fell upon my head, sliding off and hitting the left side of my face after I tilted my head. My portage yoke had split length wise while I finished putting the canoe on the ground. I didn’t spend anymore time looking at the yoke. I just continued on with my food pack across the portage. While walking back to the canoe thinking, I thought I was going to be able to fix it or I was really screwed.

I came back to see where the yoke had split and it appeared that I would be able to repair it. Grabbing my partial roll of duct tape that was in my seat bag I wrapped the yoke several times. Then I ran out of duct tape and I looked in the seat bag again for my other larger partial roll, but I didn’t find it. I was hoping that the roll was in one of my larger packs, but I would look later. This was only the third day and there’s a good possibility I might need some more duct tape before this trip is through. I, also, put a small piece of duct tape on each gunwale where the yoke is wedged to prevent it from sliding around like it was doing earlier.

I carried the canoe across the portage without any further problems. That sure was a relief.

It seems like it took a while to get here on Fran Lake, but I’m here now. This is where I imagined the Boy Scout group from Texas camped. I wouldn’t think they would have attempted to get much further yesterday.

The creek connecting Fran Lake into Slate Lake was almost navigable to whole way. I was able to paddle a short ways then lined my canoe before continuing on to the east end of Slate Lake.

The map showed there was a 5 rod portage near the campsite at the far eastern end of Slate Lake. I’m not really sure why, but it appeared the stream might be navigable, so I thought I would give it a try. Well, that was a mistake, but I thought how bad could it get.

On the first part I started to paddle down the stream hitting a few rocks, then I had to get out of the canoe and lined it for a little ways with the packs in the canoe, then I took the packs out and continued to line the canoe a few more feet, then I began portaging the canoe in the stream bed through the rocks and water. I began thinking I needed to figure out how I was going to get out of this mess; because this situation wasn’t getting any better the further downstream I went. With the canoe over my head I walked down the slippery rock filled stream bed and put down the canoe partially in some rushing water, so I tied the stern line to a tree. I knew the canoe didn’t want to go with me, but sure as hell it would go without me if I didn’t secure the stern line.

Where do I go? The actual portage would be a ways to my left. I looked the area over when I saw a faint trail that took off at a right angle from the stream. I followed this trail more or less to the north and I was in luck, it came to a larger body of water. This was Saganagons Lake, but exactly where, I didn’t know.

I went back for my packs while watching each step on the slippery rocks. It couldn’t be helped but I slipped a few times and I also stepped in some deeper water that went over the tops of my boots. I carried each of packs to the larger body of water. I did the same with the canoe. I wasn’t exactly sure where I was, but I couldn’t be that far from the end of the other portage on Saganagons. I had to take off my boots and waterproof socks to drain the water out of them. I wringed out my socks and put everything back on.

Although, I didn’t do the 5 rod portage I can safely say without even seeing it that it would have been much easier than the route that I took. When I got on the water, I saw the other portage not far away, but, hey, not too many people would go through that hassle for the experience.

The northwest wind was blowing stronger on Saganagons Lake. Making my way out of the small bay I made my way to the main part of the lake. Then I rounded the southern point of a piece of land that’s not too far from the portage. There were three guys on shore at a campsite who were discussing fishing and about one of them taking a map with him. I asked how the fishing was and they replied that they had been catching some Northerns. I inquired if they saw the three aluminum canoes with the nine people. The first guy said they passed about an hour earlier and another guy said it was probably more like a half hour. The one guy commented that the female was sitting on the throne in the middle of the canoe navigating with the map.

I began to follow the shore line from this campsite to the northeast eventually crossing over to the east shore. This would mean I would be paddling in larger waves that the northwest wind was producing, but if I followed the other shore line it would take me much longer because it had more bays. I continued to paddle to the northeast then I cut north once I got to the island that’s in front of Dead Man’s Portage. I paddled up the west side of the island and I couldn’t get to the portage. When I paddle here in 1999 I was able to get to the portage from this side. Now there was a line of rocks blocking my progress and I didn’t feel like doing a quick portage, so I paddled all the way around the island and came to the portage from the east. It probably took me another 20 minutes or so to make the loop around the island. Based upon those rocks, I believe the lake is one to two feet lower than it was in 1999.

This portage was wetter from the last time I was here in 1999. There’s a big rock that’s in the middle of this trail that was very slippery. This rock was going to be tricky, so I will put the canoe down and continue with the food pack. Then I will return for the canoe. My knees aren’t as good as they once were. I’ve had two knee surgeries on my left knee, 1971 and 1976, so I don’t like taking to many unnecessary chances. I’ve learned to know what my limits are in these situations.

(Looking out the tent I just saw a fire fly. It’s now 2214 hours.)

On this portage I put the canoe down at the big slippery rock and continued on with the food pack. When I came back for the canoe I dropped it off to the side of this big rock and walked around and portaged it from flat ground. I had lunch at the end of Dead Man’s Portage. There I filtered more water to last me the rest of the day. I make sure that I have plenty of water to drink with it being so warm out. I’ve had to filter more water at lunch time each day.

Heading off in a northwest direction from Dead Man’s portage I came across another line of rocks that were underwater in 1999. Changing my course to the northeast around the bottom of the first island I eventually made my way back to the northwest. Now I was headed to the north that would lead me to the cut going to the “falls”. The wind was producing some larger waves for me to paddle in, so I was zigzagging by the islands as I continued to the cut. Off in the distance I could see the north shore of Saganagons where the burn was in 1995. The area around Saganagons, the “Fall Chain” and the eastern part of Kawnipi was burned in 1995. This was called the Bird Lake fire or Fire #141 and it burned anywhere from 5 to 8 percent of the park.

Continuing to paddle up to the “Falls Chain” into a strong head wind, the first portage was to the left. This first portage actually combines two of them together. It seemed that it went on forever. I did these portages back in 1999 and a couple things must have changed, either my memory isn’t as good as it used to be or I’m just getting old, because I don’t remember these portages being this bad. Then there was a short paddle before the next portage on the left. These portages go around the “Four Falls”. After that I’m back into the canoe and paddle to the right for the portage that by passes “Bald Falls”. This portage is over bedrock and the wind is just howling across the bedrock. There is nothing to block the wind. I tie off the canoe so it’s not sailing back upstream while I carry both packs across looking for the best place to launch my canoe. I go back to the canoe, hoist it over my head and the wind catches the front of the canoe and twists my body to the left. I’m still holding onto the canoe and I struggle to twist my body back to the right so I can go forward with the canoe. I finally get the canoe pointing forward again, but then the wind catches the canoe and violently pushes the canoe to the right and damn near ripped the canoe out of my hands. I just drop the canoe to the bedrock at the angle it’s in. Now I grab the left gunwale and I lift the canoe off the ground but keeping it very low. I man handle the canoe across the rock portage as the front of the canoe goes in what ever direction the wind catches it. After this struggle I got to the area I wanted to put the canoe in the water. Now all I have to do is get my bags in the canoe and not fall into the water while stepping on some rocks.

My original plan was to camp on the Maligne River just past this set of the falls, but it’s too early to stop. I would like to get through the next set of portages, get them out of the way so tomorrow will be mostly a paddling day.

I continue to follow the Maligne River. The next portage that’s on the right goes around Little Falls. I then get to the long portage that is to the left of Koko Falls. These two portages are challenging in their own right. If the distances on these portages aren’t that long, then either the put-in or take-out is a challenge. I found nothing really easy on any of these portages.

There was one more 47 rod portage to the left, going around “Canyon Falls”. It wasn’t that bad after I stood up in the canoe, climbed out of it onto the rock ledge, reached down a couple feet and got my packs up and hauled my canoe up the face of the bedrock landing. There was someone else who was just putting a canoe into the water that came from the other direction. I don’t know if his put-in area was any better than where I took out. This was a father and son and their last name was Hansen (sp). They asked me if they could haul anything over the portage for me, since they were walking back to get the rest of their gear. I told them that everything I had was pretty heavy. The father took my water bottles and camera case. His son took my food pack while I carried my bigger pack. The portage was very steep at the start of it until I got on top of the ridge of the bedrock, but after that it wasn’t bad. I wasn’t going to refuse any help at this time of the day.

When I walked back to my canoe, I stopped and asked them if I could get about a foot of duct tape in case I couldn’t find my other roll. I asked them if there were any campsites on Kenny Lake, since my map maps didn’t show any. They said there were two campsites on Kenny Lake. They told me there were two canoes on an island site, but the campsite on the point near the island was open. They said that the next one after that was in the narrows on Kawnipi Lake, but it was in the burned area and it looks pretty sparse.

It has been another exhausting day as I pulled into the campsite on the point at 1706 hours. Yes, I was tired from fighting the strong northwest wind in the heat and I accomplished several tough portages today.

Later, I was out on some rocks down by the water from my campsite filtering some water. I looked over and saw three canoes with seven girls coming toward me from the northeast. They were coming around the island toward my campsite. They told me they were looking for a spot to camp. I told them there weren’t any more spots that I knew of, but they could stay at mine if they wanted as long as they didn’t stay up all night making all kinds of noise. You know it’s was only right that I threw in that last part. You guessed it, they declined my offer.

There appeared to be two leaders in this group and one of them said they had been out for four or five days. She hesitated when I asked her where they put in, but she finally said Nym Lake. She said they would be out another two weeks. I asked where they were headed and again she hesitantly said it’s a secret for the girls. I guess I didn’t understand why she was being so secretive. I figure it someone paddles close to a campsite there might be some conversation. If you don’t want to talk, then don’t go paddling near anyone.

They continued slightly south of east from my campsite into another bay out of sight. They didn’t go far, just around the point from my campsite. I could see the smoke from their fire and the sound of laughter every once in a while.

I checked the bottom of my canoe and I noticed a 5 or 6 inch crack that must have happened when I tried to get through the stream between Slate Lake and Saganagons Lake. Earlier, I realized that I also grabbed one of my carbon fiber paddles from home that had a very minor crack in it. I started going through my seat bag looking for the epoxy and fiberglass, so I could repair the canoe and to put a patch on the paddle. While looking for my epoxy, I found my other roll of duct tape.

I wanted to seal the crack on the bottom of my canoe so the water wouldn’t work its way into the foam. Most of my hardener had leaked out of the bottle so I would have to do the best that I could do with the little amount I had left. I mixed up some epoxy and laid some fiberglass in the crack. I also laid some fiberglass on the small crack on the paddle blade. I wasn’t too concerned about the crack on the paddle as it was very minor, but if I was repairing I might as well do it now because I won’t have any hardener left. I just hoped I had enough hardener to make it cure.

Today was a good day to see eagles as I’ve seen several today. There have been a couple of them flying very close to this campsite. It’s flown by a couple times and the second time it landed in a tree across from my campsite.