This spring, I used a 1/8 oz jig with a white gulp twist tail. I caught a nice laker with my first cast. I also caught about 4 more nice fish. The fish included nice walleye and pike.

But...

But I also snagged the bottom about every 4th cast. I lost my jig about half of those snags. Luckily, I caught a fish on my first cast or I never would have kept using the jigs.

How do you fish jigs without constantly losing them to snags?

One option that trout like is snap jigging -- allowing the jig to hit bottom before ripping it up. Because the lure isn't dragging on bottom, it's less likely to snag (and often more likely to catch fish :).

To do it, you will want to use a (much) heavier jighead, though.

Well I'd say go lighter but 1/8 is pretty light already. 1/4 is the lightest I fish. If you fish from shore you will lose more. Once you get the bottom composition figured out in an area you will lose less. If you have a steeper break from shore real in before you hit that break. I probably bring 100 jigs on every trip.

Jigs are consumables, you're going to lose some......sometimes you will lose a lot.
that being said, when fishing lakers it probably isn't necessary to get to the bottom. If you get there briefly to confirm your depth and then move up you should be ok. Sometimes the bottom seems to be covered with bed springs though.

Generally speaking if you aren’t snagging you’re probably not catching too many. It helps to know your depth and be able to count it down. Sometimes a simple swimming retrieve can be effective. I’m also in the bring 100+ jigs on a trip camp.

Lotw: "Jigs are consumables, you're going to lose some......sometimes you will lose a lot.
that being said, when fishing lakers it probably isn't necessary to get to the bottom. If you get there briefly to confirm your depth and then move up you should be ok. Sometimes the bottom seems to be covered with bed springs though. "

Bed springs...hahahahahaaaaa!

Vertical jigging and swimming the jigs might help reduce snags

I was trying to keep the jig near the bottom. I would cast out and let it sit until it hit the bottom. That was something like 12 seconds. On later casts, I would start to reel at about 10 seconds. That seemed to help a little.

But then, I would stop mid-retrieve and let the lure fall again. That would usually take 3-5 seconds. I figured that I would not catch any walleye if I wasn't near the bottom. On these drops, the jig would get stuck about 1/3 of the time and I could free it about 1/2 of the time. So I lost jigs about every 1 out 6 casts. That got old pretty quickly.

How can I stay near the bottom and not lose so many jigs?

Do I need to stay near the bottom? I assume that pike, bass, and lakers don't really care. But I assume that walleye really do care.

Group mantra:
If you ain't catching snags..... You ain't catching fish.

Seriously.
Just part of the gig.

Learn to paddle backwards. 90% of the time I paddle back over where I got snagged it comes out!

I have no idea how to jig and not snag. Perhaps a weedless jighead should be helpfull (I don't like them).
Anyway, after snaging, back paddle in the oposite direction that the canoe was drifting, and try to keep the line as slack as possible. After reaching a good distance (actualy what you need is at least a 45 degrees between the canoe, the bottom and the snag) up wind from the point that you presume your jig is snaged, pick up the line with the rod tip pointing downwards towards the snag.

I have done A LOT of jig fishing and a good amount of it has been from shore on a river so we're talking a lot of snag potential.

I cast out the jig and then bounce it a long the bottom as I retrieve. At first I would lose a lot of jigs but as I practiced and got a better feel I was able to start learning the feel of my jig hitting snags. When I felt the jig hit a potential snag I would try to pop the jig up and over with a big lift of the rod. Depending on the nature of what I was up against it would work very well. The key was a lot of practice and getting the feel from the bottom. A good sensitive rod helps.

Even with a good feel of the bottom snags will still happen. Another trick I picked up on was using cheaper jigs. Losing them hurts a little less when they aren't expensive but if the point of the hook gets stuck in something often times it was possible to pull on the line and in doing so open the gap in the hook enough to allow the jig to pop free. When doing that make sure to have a pliers or something to fix the hook and keep an eye on the hook point and sharpen as needed. I only do this in a spot where I know there are a lot of snags and I'm going to be losing a lot of jigs and its the only way to make it worth my time fishing the spot.

Otherwise you just need to accept that losing jigs is part of the game. Also like my grandpa used to say "if you're not getting snagged you aint catching fish", meaning getting snagged means you know your bait is in the strike zone and that there is structure capable of holding fish both are good things.

Catch fish, snag, tie on jig, catch fish, snag, tie on jig,catch fish,... this is my usual pattern for sure!

walllee: "Catch fish, snag, tie on jig, catch fish, snag, tie on jig,catch fish,... this is my usual pattern for sure!"

You forgot to incorporate the nice hit, limp line, "damn northern", tie on a jig

AmarilloJim: "

walllee: "Catch fish, snag, tie on jig, catch fish, snag, tie on jig,catch fish,... this is my usual pattern for sure!"

You forgot to incorporate the nice hit, limp line, "damn northern", tie on a jig"

Yes you are 100% on that statement!!

I am surprised no one mentioned using heavier line. Also, braid seems to get chewed up by frequent snags and fishing over rocks. Even a few feet of a hard abrasion resistant mono/ flouro leader will protect your braid. That combined with 15lb or 20lb line will pull a lot of snags free. Maybe not in a boulder field, but when fishing on cobble you'll notice a difference.

Mad_Angler: "This spring, I used a 1/8 oz jig with a white gulp twist tail. I caught a nice laker with my first cast. I also caught about 4 more nice fish. The fish included nice walleye and pike.

But...

But I also snagged the bottom about every 4th cast. I lost my jig about half of those snags. Luckily, I caught a fish on my first cast or I never would have kept using the jigs.

How do you fish jigs without constantly losing them to snags?"

I've never fished for lakers, so this may not help you at all. My perspectives are mainly correlated to fishing on specific break points, or deep reefs, but not so much for casting/trolling. Anyway, FWIW:

1) Vertical jig if possible. If drifting or anchored, use a heavy enough jig to allow you to stay vertical. Find bottom, lift 12 inches, you are functionally fishing 'on the bottom'.

2) If vertical jigging, use bobber stops on line and correlate them to depth you are seeing on sonar. Reduces the amount of actual 'feeling for the bottom' once you've made correlations.

3) Practice 'popping' your line to free jigs. Works a lot of the time if snag is on rocks (not so much on wood)

4) If practical for the conditions, use lighter wire hooks and 8 lb braid. Many times hook will bend open enough to free jig. Pay attention to line abrasion and touch up point of hook periodically.

5) Some would argue this costs me fish, but I rarely fish expensive jig heads, usually unpainted ball heads. That eases my pain a little when I lose one.

+1 on snag-zone = strike-zone

I like using braid, 12-15 lb power pro. I think the lack of stretch helps 'pop' jigs out of snag situations. I had been tying on a fluorocarbon leader 1) to reduce line visibility and 2) to break off snags without giving up as much line. I have lost confidence my line-to-line knots so I'm back to direct tying braid to jigs. If I am fortunate to fish the same jig for an extended period (1/2 day) I'll retie to address line wear.

Like others, I bring ample an jig supply and also an extra spool of line. I have yet to need to respool in canoe country, but on my annual fly-in where we fish from motor boats I fish more and sometimes need to respool before the end of the trip.

Mad_Angler: "I was trying to keep the jig near the bottom. I would cast out and let it sit until it hit the bottom. That was something like 12 seconds. On later casts, I would start to reel at about 10 seconds. That seemed to help a little.


But then, I would stop mid-retrieve and let the lure fall again. That would usually take 3-5 seconds. I figured that I would not catch any walleye if I wasn't near the bottom. On these drops, the jig would get stuck about 1/3 of the time and I could free it about 1/2 of the time. So I lost jigs about every 1 out 6 casts. That got old pretty quickly.


How can I stay near the bottom and not lose so many jigs?


Do I need to stay near the bottom? I assume that pike, bass, and lakers don't really care. But I assume that walleye really do care."

Depending on what you're snagged on you almost can always get it. For those that you cannot get to, I suggest the HOUND DOG........I used it almost exclusively when fishing from my boat and rarely if ever lose any jig, crank, tube, swimbait, etc, etc, etc,..

Seriously...........that crap works.

Hound Dog

One final thing...........whenever I release the hound, if it is successful at retrieving my lure, I have to howl like a hound dog. NO matter, what time or where :) :) .

Later,

Geo

Think angles when you are jigging. The more vertical you are the less likely you are to hang.

For that reason I dislike long casts when jig fishing. If casting and retrieving I like a bit longer rod as opposed to the commonly accepted wisdom of a short rod (better for vertical jigging). Holding the longer rod up creates a better angle than a shorter rod.

Another option you might consider is adding a safety pin spinner (spin-jig). Highly effective walleye offering and very snag resistant. Quality safety pin spinners are few but slayer redfish has excellent quality. I like gold and they will see much use this August.

You should be able to get the majority of your gear back by paddling behind it and gently snapping your rod. I detest jig heads which have bent straight and put back into place. These jigs become easily opened again.......add in that bigger fish have harder mouths and the stage is set for losing your trophy.

Lastly, a small file or stone is a must have for the proficient jig fisherman. Get your jig hung in the rocks and the tip of your hook can easily get bent and is easily overlooked.

Lastly, lastly consider the physics of mono vs braid. Mono is thicker and the sink rate is "flatter" and more level and far easier to maintain a constant depth. I like jigging with braid only in current or vertical jigging deep water.

QueticoMike: "Vertical jigging and swimming the jigs might help reduce snags"

Yes, this.

I fish 75% of the time in the bwca with a jig and a minnow, Gulp, or some type of plastic. 1/8th oz is what I use most of the time, 1/16th or 1/4 depending on wind or moving water. Over the years, I have lost less and less jigs by almost always jigging vertically or swimming whatever I throw. If you cast out and let it sink to the bottom, your chances of a snag go up significantly. When casting from shore, I like to go weightless or slightly weighted 3 or 4/0 hook and tube, fluke, or worm of some type. I creek fish most of the time this way at home and I am confident I can catch all species of fish this way.

I also like to use a sensitive line....light braid, copolymer or fluorocarbon depending on the rod. They give me a better feel for structure and help to avoid snags.

Losing jigs is part of the deal, but practice and gear can help you lose less.

GeoFisher: "

Mad_Angler: "I was trying to keep the jig near the bottom. I would cast out and let it sit until it hit the bottom. That was something like 12 seconds. On later casts, I would start to reel at about 10 seconds. That seemed to help a little.



But then, I would stop mid-retrieve and let the lure fall again. That would usually take 3-5 seconds. I figured that I would not catch any walleye if I wasn't near the bottom. On these drops, the jig would get stuck about 1/3 of the time and I could free it about 1/2 of the time. So I lost jigs about every 1 out 6 casts. That got old pretty quickly.



How can I stay near the bottom and not lose so many jigs?



Do I need to stay near the bottom? I assume that pike, bass, and lakers don't really care. But I assume that walleye really do care."

Depending on what you're snagged on you almost can always get it. For those that you cannot get to, I suggest the HOUND DOG........I used it almost exclusively when fishing from my boat and rarely if ever lose any jig, crank, tube, swimbait, etc, etc, etc,..


Seriously...........that crap works.


Hound Dog


One final thing...........whenever I release the hound, if it is successful at retrieving my lure, I have to howl like a hound dog. NO matter, what time or where :) :) .


Later,


Geo"

Ever snag & lose a HoundDog?

GeoFisher: "


Depending on what you're snagged on you almost can always get it. For those that you cannot get to, I suggest the HOUND DOG........I used it almost exclusively when fishing from my boat and rarely if ever lose any jig, crank, tube, swimbait, etc, etc, etc,..


Seriously...........that crap works.


Hound Dog


One final thing...........whenever I release the hound, if it is successful at retrieving my lure, I have to howl like a hound dog. NO matter, what time or where :) :) .


Later,


Geo"

Look like a good tool to have in the boat while musky fishing considering how expensive those baits can be. I'm not sure I'd waste the time with one just to save a 25-50 cent jig though.

We jig fish ALOT for walleye and SMB. I would say that its part art, part science and part luck. First and foremost we DO NOT let the jig sit on bottom more than necessary. Upon casting let it go to the bottom RIP it up off the bottom a few feet then swim the jig several feet before GLIDING it back to the bottom. The swimming technique minimizes bottom contact while staying within a couple feet of the bottom.

For jigging I have said this repeatedly on this forum and get bashed for it but, get a super sensitive rod with light braid super line and a floro leader here's why. I can tell you if what I just hit with my jig is a rock or fish with 80%+ certainty. Once I gently tighten my line I can tell you with 95% certainty. The reason that is important is that if you lean back (set the hook) on a snag the chance of recovery just dropped in half. If snagged pop the line (B4 you set the hook) and you should get 50%+ of them immediately. If its wood all bets are off and reach for your tackle box you'll need a new jig.

Final thought...….If fishing with mono on a soft rod disregard everything above. IMO.

BnD: " We jig fish ALOT for walleye and SMB. I would say that its part art, part science and part luck. First and foremost we DO NOT let the jig sit on bottom more than necessary. Upon casting let it go to the bottom RIP it up off the bottom a few feet then swim the jig several feet before GLIDING it back to the bottom. The swimming technique minimizes bottom contact while staying within a couple feet of the bottom.


For jigging I have said this repeatedly on this forum and get bashed for it but, get a super sensitive rod with light braid super line and a floro leader here's why. I can tell you if what I just hit with my jig is a rock or fish with 80%+ certainty. Once I gently tighten my line I can tell you with 95% certainty. The reason that is important is that if you lean back (set the hook) on a snag the chance of recovery just dropped in half. If snagged pop the line (B4 you set the hook) and you should get 50%+ of them immediately. If its wood all bets are off and reach for your tackle box you'll need a new jig.


Final thought...….If fishing with mono on a soft rod disregard everything above. IMO."

This is basically what I do as well minus your specific line and rod choices. Whatever rod or line you choose I feel like you can have the same results once you learn what you are feeling. Technique is more or less the same you just need to use it enough to learn what is what just by feel.

Another option is to look for sales on jigs...and then not worry about losing them (apart from the hassle/annoyance of having to retie).

My local sporting goods store puts on a sale every year where bulk tackle is 50% off. Their unpainted jig heads are 3/$1, so I get 6 of them for a buck. Paint them if you like with whatever you have sitting around the house, and you've got a lot of fishing for very little money.

Look for sales, tie a quick knot, expect to lose some/many, and roll with it when it happens. Better all the way around.

Or just snap them, as I mentioned in an earlier post. :)

carmike: "Another option is to look for sales on jigs...and then not worry about losing them (apart from the hassle/annoyance of having to retie).


My local sporting goods store puts on a sale every year where bulk tackle is 50% off. Their unpainted jig heads are 3/$1, so I get 6 of them for a buck. Paint them if you like with whatever you have sitting around the house, and you've got a lot of fishing for very little money.


Look for sales, tie a quick knot, expect to lose some/many, and roll with it when it happens. Better all the way around.


Or just snap them, as I mentioned in an earlier post. :) "

This is my thoughts exactly! Just bought 60 bucks worth, and still worried I won’t have enough for my Quetico adventure that is coming up...

Uff da....that's a lot of jigs. :)

carmike: "Uff da....that's a lot of jigs. :) "

Yes it is, but there have been days in Quetico when I will lose 20. Snags and Northerns. A few years back I caught a Northern that had 2 of my jigs in his mouth from being hooked earlier that day. They are extremely slow learners evidently.

walllee: "

carmike: "Uff da....that's a lot of jigs. :) "

They are extremely slow learners evidently."

Are you referring to the fish or the fishermen?
:)

coloradomike: "

walllee: "

carmike: "Uff da....that's a lot of jigs. :) "

They are extremely slow learners evidently."

Are you referring to the fish or the fishermen?
:)"

Fisherman of course !!

I think this thread should be a reminder to all to wear some sort of water shoes when wading around in the water. Barefoot sounds like a foot full of jigs.

If you want to avoid retying jigs, a possible option might be the floating rigs sold by the Beaver House in Grand Marais.

They have about a 20" mono with a float ball, and hook, on one end, and a loop on the other end, to snap on a swivel. Where the loop is, there is about a 5" tag line.

You place a split shot or two on the tag line, about an inch from the end of the tag line. Then, when invariably the split shot gets caught in the rubble, a smooth steady pull, will slide the split shot off the line,and you'll be able to retrieve the float rig... provided of course, that the snag isn't the hook,on a tree.

It'll keep your rig within 12-20" of the bottom depending on whether you're moving or not, and how many split shot you put on the tag line.

carmike: "Uff da....that's a lot of jigs. :) "

That's what I was thinking. But I am not a huge jig fisherman. Still, I can't imagine losing that many jigs. Usually you can paddle back, get behind them and get the majority.

The poster is certainly correct however in pointing out a pikes affinity for all things jigs......and they usually nip them as well.

Here at MT Enterprises our R&D department is currently developing a mini CO2 cartridge with a smallish inflatable. Attach to your line, send down to the offending snagged jig and inflate. Jig pops right to the surface with corresponding yellow or blue easily recoverable balloon. Deflate, attach new cartridge and your ready for the next snag.

And that CO2 inflatable only costs $4.99!!! A great investment for those high-end 24K gilded tungsten silver-carbide enhanced jigs that cost two arms and a leg!

carmike: "And that CO2 inflatable only costs $4.99!!! A great investment for those high-end 24K gilded tungsten silver-carbide enhanced jigs that cost two arms and a leg! "

Man it sure seems that way......they are nice to fish with though.

BTW you can preorder the "Bob-a-Jig" and beat the rush and inevitable back orders and have it by the holidays. Makes an ideal gift for the angler who has everything.

The only place I have lost tons of jigs was early in the spring when walleye spawn in rocky rivers. Pull up, drop your jig/minnow, drift 10 ft and get hung. But even then we started using an electric motor to play " catch up" with the line so we could fish vertically and we spent more time catching and less time tying knots. The technique is called "slipping" and works wonders in current.

analyzer: "I think this thread should be a reminder to all to wear some sort of water shoes when wading around in the water. Barefoot sounds like a foot full of jigs.


"

I was thinking the same thing - when folks say to just forget it and get a new jig, are we just cutting the line and letting the jig stay down there? This tactic would have saved me a ton of time and effort over the years.

nofish:" A good sensitive rod helps."

Agreed. To those who would argue that a more expensive/more sensitive rod doesn't catch more fish, I reply that a more sensitive rod allows me to better feel the bottom and pull up on that bouncing jig just before it settles into a snag... allowing more time in the water... and more fish.

Fish cranks.

Could not agree more, and add the angle. If you aren't close to straight down, you will lose more jigs. There are also some jigs that are flat on the bottom and don't snag often.

BnD: " We jig fish ALOT for walleye and SMB. I would say that its part art, part science and part luck. First and foremost we DO NOT let the jig sit on bottom more than necessary. Upon casting let it go to the bottom RIP it up off the bottom a few feet then swim the jig several feet before GLIDING it back to the bottom. The swimming technique minimizes bottom contact while staying within a couple feet of the bottom.


For jigging I have said this repeatedly on this forum and get bashed for it but, get a super sensitive rod with light braid super line and a floro leader here's why. I can tell you if what I just hit with my jig is a rock or fish with 80%+ certainty. Once I gently tighten my line I can tell you with 95% certainty. The reason that is important is that if you lean back (set the hook) on a snag the chance of recovery just dropped in half. If snagged pop the line (B4 you set the hook) and you should get 50%+ of them immediately. If its wood all bets are off and reach for your tackle box you'll need a new jig.


Final thought...….If fishing with mono on a soft rod disregard everything above. IMO."