Hey Folks,

My group of 3 is doing our first BWCA trip (not our first canoe or wilderness trip, just 1st time in BWCA) the 1st week in August. After much research I chose the Lady Chain trip, putting in on Kawashiwi Lake (EP37)and taking out at Sawbill. The plan was to go to Polly on day 1, grab a site there if a good one is available, or, ideally, go a little farther and grab a site on either Koma or Malberg, camp 2 nights and explore that area a bit, and then head east toward Pheobe and complete the chain. We have 6 days.

After reading all the horror stories about how crowded it is these days and of people paddling for hours only to find every site taken, I'm starting to wonder if this is a good plan. I saw that every permit for our EP and Sawbill was taken for our entry day and several days on either side. I'm sure some of those people will be staying on the entry lakes, or only going as far as Polly or Alton/Beth, and some will be doing bigger loops to the north, but I'm guessing a significant number will be doing the same trip we are. I'm worried about being able to find a site every day, and starting to think that going farther north and finding a site to stay on for more days, rather than moving most days and competing for a site every day, might be the way to go. I'm thinking of trying to get to Malberg Day 1 (we'll stop on Polly or Koma if a good site is open) and then going farther day 2, maybe to Amber Lake, Kawishiwi River, or even as far as Fishdance. Stay there for 2 or 3 days, and then take the last 2 days to complete the Chain. Of course, this would have us looking for sites in the Hazel/Pheobe/Grace area on Saturday and Sunday, which could be problematic.

Alternately, I could stick closer to the original plan, with less moving of sites. Stay at Polly/Koma/Malberg nights 1 and 2, try to get a site on Pheobe for nights 3 and 4, and then move bit a bit closer (Grace?) to position ourselves for the paddle out. This would have us looking for a site on Pheobe on Thursday, and Grace on Saturday or Sunday.

Thoughts? Thanks in advance for any knowledge shared.

I think people are overthinking this problem.

In between all those horror stories you've apparently read, there are hundreds of others who found a site with no problem.

I don't think it's as bad as is being depicted.

You have things in your favor: you are willing to travel pretty far even on day one, you only have 3 people which means almost any site could suit you, and it sounds like you want the bulk of your trip to take place at least several portages from an EP (popular as they may be).

I don't know what to tell you as I certainly can't guarantee anything, but I'd say structure the trip you want to do how you want to do it and just be flexible. Site availability is going to peak between about 9:30am-1:30pm.

Your plan B of Alice/Fishdance would be very cool. But I'd just go in being flexible since it's your first trip. If you find a site on Polly and are wore out or it's windy....maybe do your original lady chain plan. If you get an early start and feel good keep going and try your plan B.

You have options....take all the maps you'll need for any of those areas and see how it goes. Goals are good to have but it'll be a memorable trip either way.

The early start can be a key to better luck finding sites. I had the same concerns when my son and I went up in early June. We were on the water by 7am and had no issues with sites. I had several plan "B's" in mind had we run into problems. I found I just needed to relax and let the trip flow. You've got a good plan and you'll make it work. Enjoy!

I am with Treehorn. Yes it could happen but most likely you will be fine. Just have some other plans in case you do run into it.

If you can get on the water early enough you could easily be on Polly well before noon and start scoping out campsites on the north end. On your way out Beth may be a good option because there is a long and rigorous portage between Beth and Alton that many "casual" paddlers won't be equipped for, carrying coolers, lawn chairs, folding umbrellas, and grills. Alton will be busy because for many people that will be considered going deep into the wilderness since they have to cross a portage, even though it's the easiest one to be found in the BWCA. It's also very doable to get from Phoebe to Sawbill in one day especially considering almost all of your food, TP, fuel, and bug spray will be gone by then.
EDIT: It's the Grace to Beth portage that's the difficult one on this route. Every trip report that I have read recommends this long one over the two smaller ones through Ella however.

You said, "On your way out Beth may be a good option because there is a long and rigorous portage between Beth and Alton that many "casual" paddlers won't be equipped for". I am sure you are actually talking about the 276 rod portage between Beth and Grace.

The portage between Beth and Alton is not that long and fairly easy.

Tomster

quark2222: "You said, "On your way out Beth may be a good option because there is a long and rigorous portage between Beth and Alton that many "casual" paddlers won't be equipped for". I am sure you are actually talking about the 276 rod portage between Beth and Grace.


The portage between Beth and Alton is not that long and fairly easy.


Tomster"

Plan on camping on Polly if you get there by lunch. There are a lot of sites. But also plan on moving on. Basically, have a plan B so you don’t freak out if Polly is full. Or play it safe and don’t bother with Polly. Think of it as a pass through lake. Most other campers see it as a destination lake.

A lot of people are base camping on Polly. I did your trip in reverse last year and got the last crappy site on Polly that was open. we arrived at about 12:30PM.

Most people are not doing the lady chain and don’t bother looking at permit availability as an indicator of the crowds. Most campers don’t have the fortitude to portage more than a few rods. Don’t be offended fellow readers if you are the type that can push it, I’m not referring to you. :)
The lady chain is pretty quiet.
Tom

I have been in that area in Aug. before.

If you get an early start, Polly will be busy but not full. You may have to search for a site, but usually one is open. I would look for a site in the western arm and if none then continue toward Malberg. There are not a lot of sites in the eastern arm. Don’t waste your energy paddling down there and then back again.

The peninsula site on Koma Lake is the best. Malberg has many nice sites. Day tripping to Fishdance from Malberg is common. It’s a pretty paddle and a wonderful day. Amber’s first site has a nice beach for a lunch.

Most people don’t travel off Polly toward Hazel. It’s a nice day’s travel from Malberg.

Do not under any circumstances cross the portage from Grace to Beth until you are ready to be done with your trip. Beth is almost always full. It has beautiful scenery, nice campsites and easy bass fishing.

If you are still worried about it being full, go north! Since you are experienced trippers, I don’t hesitate to send you this way. Still go to Malberg and day trip to Fishdance, but then head northeast out of Malberg to Kivaniva, Pan, Makwa, Elton, and Little Sag. Here is a true jewel of the BWCAW. You will head back south through some of the least visited places in all the BW. Little Sag, Mora, Whipped, Fente, Hub, Mesaba. The portage from Fente to Hub will test your legs. Mesaba is a treasure. The campsite at the narrows is the best on the lake. Continue south through Hug and Duck to Zenith. Once on Zenith Lake fill your water bottles to the brim before you start the 460 rd portage to Lujenida. This portage starts with a gentle uphill, but after that there are only a couple true hills. There may be a beaver ponds to wade in the middle. Again, don’t cross this portage until you are ready to be done. You may find a site on Kelso or Sawbill, but most likely not.

The route through Little Sag is very high quality wilderness. It is one of my go to routes in this area.

Michwall2: "I have been in that area in Aug. before.
If you get an early start, Polly will be busy but not full. You may have to search for a site, but usually one is open. I would look for a site in the western arm and if none then continue toward Malberg. There are not a lot of sites in the eastern arm. Don’t waste your energy paddling down there and then back again.
The peninsula site on Koma Lake is the best. Malberg has many nice sites. Day tripping to Fishdance from Malberg is common. It’s a pretty paddle and a wonderful day. Amber’s first site has a nice beach for a lunch.
Most people don’t travel off Polly toward Hazel. It’s a nice day’s travel from Malberg.
Do not under any circumstances cross the portage from Grace to Beth until you are ready to be done with your trip. Beth is almost always full. It has beautiful scenery, nice campsites and easy bass fishing.
If you are still worried about it being full, go north! Since you are experienced trippers, I don’t hesitate to send you this way. Still go to Malberg and day trip to Fishdance, but then head northeast out of Malberg to Kivaniva, Pan, Makwa, Elton, and Little Sag. Here is a true jewel of the BWCAW. You will head back south through some of the least visited places in all the BW. Little Sag, Mora, Whipped, Fente, Hub, Mesaba. The portage from Fente to Hub will test your legs. Mesaba is a treasure. The campsite at the narrows is the best on the lake. Continue south through Hug and Duck to Zenith. Once on Zenith Lake fill your water bottles to the brim before you start the 460 rd portage to Lujenida. This portage starts with a gentle uphill, but after that there are only a couple true hills. There may be a beaver ponds to wade in the middle. Again, don’t cross this portage until you are ready to be done. You may find a site on Kelso or Sawbill, but most likely not.
The route through Little Sag is very high quality wilderness. It is one of my go to routes in this area.
"

Excellent advice. That’s what this site is all about. Great insight of passing around quality experiences. Thanks, Michwall

Thanks, everyone! This has allayed my fears somewhat. I've been wanting to come to the BWCA for more than 20 years, but living over 1200 miles away in Upstate NY has made it difficult. I don't know when I'll be able to go again, so I'm putting alot of pressure on myself to make this the perfect trip. The underlying message from these replies- relax, and let the trip come to you, is a good one.

I've definitely had my eye on that central penninsula site on Koma- I'd really like to stay there, and on that lake, if possible. From what I've read, Koma has great fishing, and seems to be largely a pass-through lake for trippers on their way to Malberg and beyond. I'd love to spend a couple of days here, fishing the rapids to the south and the ones on the southern end of Malberg, and exploring Malberg and nearby lakes on daytrips.

Has anyone here paddled into Frond and Boze Lakes from Malberg? This looks like a less traveled area to explore.

Send me an email if you want.

I've gone up the Louse from Malberg to those first little lakes. Cool little area

If it seems busy when you get to Polly or anywhere else don’t spend time checking out every site, just take a decent open. By the time you come back to it, it may be too late. Binoculars could help you scope some from a distance.

I'm in agreement with everyone to go anyway. Also you might want to consider the campsites on Kawasachong on your way up. A lot of paddlers paddle thru there because they are trying to get further, and/or it is a lake damaged by the Pagami Creek fire 8 years ago. As a result, those sites were all open. We did two nights on #1017 and enjoyed it there. The swallows circling the sunset across the lake was mesmerizing and something I'd never seen before.

The portage from Grace to Beth is a bit difficult - especially for rookies. I took 2 rookie groups on that route (Sawbill to Kawishiwi) last year and that portage did a number on them. I'd recommend leap frogging it and they'll do much better.

I have also done the Louse River coming from Frond/Boze toward Malberg. If the water is low, be prepared to pull over a lot of beaver dams. It is high quality wilderness. Seldom travelled and very ancient feeling.

Don’t overthink things. Just go for it and have fun. I love that area, Amber Lake is a fav. Portages aren’t hard, finding the way out of Polly being the only challenge if you can call it that. Fishing is good. What’s not to like.

All good advice so far. I'll just add a few details. I'd still shoot for Polly with an early start. Stick to west arm. The east arm sites are not worth the paddle. Have a strong PLAN B ready.....Koma (the peninsula site looks better on the map than in person), Malberg....lots of sites but a fair amount of paddling to check them all. It will be a long day to check them all. I'd maybe just check all the ones on my route through the central and western parts and if needed push on to River lake and parts of Kawishiwi River. For Lady Chain part. Shoot for Phoebe. Its in middle of chain and gets less traffic from east or west. Most sites pretty good. Some details mentioned...if going to Amber, only bother with east site...its a beauty and west site is NOT.
Boze and Frond not hard to get to. Site on Boze is ok but is right on the portage and has small ridge to west to block west breezes. Polly has a site in the SE bay (north side of it) that is not marked on some maps and is quite often open.

Make sure to plan some time for the excellent cliff jumping at the east end of Beth, right where the portage to Alton starts. You'll likely have no problem finding it, as you'll be hearing the screams of joy from all the daytrippers jumping off of it. We did Alton with the kids the past two summers, and spent several day trips to the jumping rock. My son was 3 his first jump off the little part, ~4 foot drop. It took me until the second summer before I was brave enough to go off the tallest part, ~15 feet, but once I did, it was no problem. FYI, 2020 trip was over 4th of July weekend, and Alton was nearly empty. Didn't see anyone camped on Beth, either.

Family jump off the short end of the cliff. 2020

Hazel and Ella are also beautiful and little visited. In the middle of the summer last year spent 2 days on each of them without seeing anyone else. Go for it!

I just traveled through the lady chain on a Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday. Here is my report:
Beth - all 4 sites were open at 7:30 am
Ella - both sites open
Grace - only south 2 sites taken
Phoebe - north site empty, I did not venture south
Knight - empty
Hazel - both sites empty
Polly - east arm and northern part completely empty, did not venture down the western/southern part
Koma - empty
Malberg - at least 5 sites empty, I did not venture into the northern arm

Between Beth and Malberg, I only passed 2 groups on a portage, one between Polly and Koma and the other between Koma and Malberg.

I also paddled over to Fishdance Lake and only saw one group camped on the Kawishiwi River. Weekdays are the time to travel!

Just back and paddled what Michwall2 suggested (but I had planned it before seeing the suggestion). We left on Saturday July 3 (so a late start on a long weekend; all permits were used the day before, so I had expected many people were ahead of us). Got on the water a bit after 8 am--we were going slowly and there were open sites on Polly at lunchtime. We stopped at Koma on the first night--three sites were occupied, so we took the fourth instead of risking having to keep paddling at Malberg. It turned out that Koma was the busiest lake that we saw.

Got an earlier start the next morning and saw just one site occupied as we went through Malberg (although it is possible that the two groups we saw going in the other direction had left sites). Saw a fair number of people paddling to/from Little Sag and a few occupied sites on the way. But once on Little Sag, we saw only one site occupied on the east side (although we liked the first unoccupied site that we checked out). Day tripped from Little Sag the next day and saw only open sites and only one canoe passing by our site. The next morning, exiting Little Sag early, we only saw one site occupied. That was the last we saw any person until we were on Kelso Lake.