And I’m building this all from scratch. My own design, lofting and all.
All for now. Stay tuned.
Tom

I'm drooling for more !
Solo or tandem ?
Jim

Building a 16-6” tandem.
I’ve built a lot of canoes using other people’s plans. So many designs out there.
I decided I want to design my own canoe. I’m not good at lofting but I feel I can draw up plans and make a form. I want some tumblehome and I want a narrow entry. A lot of older canoe designs don’t have that. So here goes.

The first thing I did was take two long cedar strips and lay them out on the floor. I basically formed the top of the canoe on the floor and used wood pieces every 16” to make the shape of the canoe at the gunwales. This way at least I had a starting point to make the forms.


I’m making the form for this canoe in the traditional way that wood/canvas canoes are built. I have to build the form out of thick strips of pine. I’ll document it as I go but I’m not going to explain every part of how I am building the form. That would take a while and there are already others that document that in books. I will say it can be complicated if you are not familiar with their construction. However, as I go along I’ll show the steps I’m taking to make the form that the canoe is built upon.



I have the stems laminated and glued together on a jig. Some builders use a solid piece of ash and soak/steam the stem to the jig. My method is slightly easier for me.

Great start ! I like the rocker in the stems.
Laminating the stems seems better to me also.
Hard to tell from the pic, but will it be flat bottomed ?

Jim

Sept 17th.

Hey Jim,
Sorry about the long delay in replying.
The bottom is not flat but is less arched than the Chestnut Pal. My new canoe is arched but minimally.

This weekend I turned the form right side up to get a better look at it. I put the gunwale backers on and spent a lot of time making sure everything is perpendicular, level, plum, and all of that. I have a little work to do on the forms near the ends. They are a little fat on the bottom and a little too narrow on the top. I’ll make some new ones and fit them in. Today I’m working on the inwales.

The steel bands arrive this week and then I’ll start making ribs.

WOW !
I'm impressed !

Jim

This is fascinatinating. I've wondered how forms were built.

Hey Samsquatch,

I’ll shoot a few more pictures of the form this week. I’m waiting for the steel bands to arrive and when they do, it will make more sense. Building the form is darn near as much work as building a canoe. I think this is why most people build strippers since the form for them is easier to construct.

I’m so far into this form that I’m glad I’m where I am with it because it’s taking a lot of time to get it finished.
Tom

tumblehome: "Hey Samsquatch,


I’ll shoot a few more pictures of the form this week.
Tom"

Thanks, Tumblehome. I'd appreciate that.

9-23-23
This week I finished up the form for the most part. I am now placing the 22 gauge steel bands on the form where the ribs will go. The steel bands are used so that when I pound a tack through the planking and through the rib, it will bend over when it strikes the steel thus clinching the nail and holding it in place.




The steel bands are bent over on the ends and screwed to the bottom of the strip closest to the sheer line.


A mortise is cut into the form where the stem will be placed. I will show more photos of this as I go along. So far so good.

Soon I’ll start making ribs.
Tom

Great job on the Photos. I go back and see the answers to my questions !

Two questions though.
What screws did you use to attach strips to your plywood forms ? Did you predrill to avoid splitting the plywood ?
Intriguing !
Thanks !

Hey Jim,

I used 1 1/4" drywall screws and I do pre-drill the holes.
I'm working on ribs now and will get them steamed and bent onto the frame next week.

Tom

10-13-23

I’m moving along. This week I finished up the stems and had a fellow BWCA.com member assist in bending ribs.











I cut a 1/4” deep slot in the stems where the ribs are bent over the stem.









Additionally, I soften the edges of the ribs but leave the part where the rib rests in the stem slot.