Well, I have completed yet another trip in Quetico. My route was Beaverhouse, Quetico, Conk, Jean, Little Jean, Cyph, Albert, Burntside, Sturgeon, Heron Bay, Fred, Cutty Creek, Nam, Camel, Eag, Cub, Baird, Metacryst, Heronshaw, Shelly, Kawnipi, Shelly, No Name to Alice, Keats, Chatterton, Russell, Sturgeon, Lonely, Walter,Elizabeth, Jesse, Maria, Batchewaung Bay, Batchewaung and Nym.

I would describe my trip as the tale of two trips. The first 9 days were idyllic: great weather, good fishing and reasonable winds. The next 9 days were stormy, strong winds, cold weather and poor fishing. The last two were nice but by then, I wanted to get out.

I had a number of firsts on my trip. I ran into a park ranger for the first time in over 50 trips on Little Jean and had to show my permit. I have never had trouble with water levels in Cutty Creek even during the drought years. This time the area between Eag and Cub was just makeable with some poling. The No Name Lake to Alice Creek was lower than I have ever seen it and I couldn’t get to the creek as there was 25 yards of mud. I suspect the low water was caused by lack of beavers as these areas were burned.

I have always taken about the same gear and food for three weeks. It weighs about 170 pounds. When you are by yourself that long you need amusements and lots of back-up gear. That I am 77 I need to spread the weight into 3 full packs and a day pack. The problem isn’t so much carrying 75 pounds it is lifting it onto your back. So now I must quadruple portage instead of tripling.

I decided to go back to the middle of the park, but I can tell you right now I won’t do it again. It is simply too strenuous, creates bad memories and is almost a dead zone. I put fish guts on two lakes in the fire zone in late afternoon and by the next morning they were still there. Some of my favorite campsites looked like war zones. It is just unfamiliar and depressing.

As I mentioned I now need to work harder on portages. One day I lifted my packs 32 times. Another day I had to undo a portage and walked it 14 times or about 2 ½ miles. Three other days I walked over 3 ½ miles. It is just too much work for this old man.

I did have some great animal encounters and one disappointment. I was in Rouge and I looked ahead and saw some sticks in the water but they then started to move, I realized I was looking at the antlers of a submerged moose. The antlers looked about five feet across and when he got out of the water, he appeared to be about 2,000 pounds. I also saw a mother duck with about 25 ducklings. I have never seen so many in one skein. I have enjoyed the comeback of the trumpeter swans but this year I only saw one pair.

The weather in late August is always a crap shoot. I had temperatures from above 30 C to 0 C. It was better weather this year than last as it wasn’t as hot. The winds in the second half of the trip were very strong and stormy so I had to work harder and had less opportunity to fish. I heard from my outfitter that many groups had poor fishing that week.

Now That I am out, I won’t start planning next year’s trip until at least October, but I have already had some thoughts. At my age you might as well plan and then hope you are physically capable of journeying.

My photo are linked : https://photos.app.goo.gl/h77FtYGd7QmC2WzJ7

Trip photos

Love those lake trout. They look meaty.

Thanks, John, for the writeup and the photos. I have been really curious about the state of the burn around that Russell/Shelly/Western Kawnipi area. Looks tough, especially in the Kawnipi area.

And at 77 and still doing a 20 day trip by yourself is an inspiration to me. I appreciate your posting.

John, You're bull!

All I'll say is that maybe shorten your trips to lighten the load. Like do two shorter ten-day trips spaced apart.

Thanks for sharing the your trip observations and photos. That's an amazing trip at any age, let alone at 77. What an inspiration!

Wow pretty awesome trip! I’ve been through all of those areas and that is darn dangit and other expletives amazing at 77! Gives me hope at 54 that I can hopefully do meaningful awesome trips for hopefully a lot more years! Totally impressed! You did go through some harder areas but my sense is you know the park. You have nice long trips and can take your time. We push miles but as I ge5 older with more time I’m sure I’ll push route length like you but with more time to enjoy more lakes on the route instead of just paddling through! Color me impressed! Awesome trip!

Ryan

John,

Thank you for the write up and the photos. As with most of those who have posted, I am very impressed at your ability to take a trip as you have done. I'm 72 and just got back last month staying on Saganagons and base camping there. To accomplish what you have done at your age is indeed inspirational.

Thanks again, John. We all appreciate your dedication and passion for the Quetico.

John, this is one of the best and certainly most inspirational trip reports I have ever read. Having traveled a lot of your route--although not since the fires--your great photos brought back memories and your write-up is an inspiration tool of us. May you bring back another great report next year.

I just wanted to thank all of you for your generous comments. It makes it easier to continue my canoeing which is definitely my first love. I plan to keep journeying on my three week trips as long as I am healthy. I have already planned two trips for next year depending on water levels. Unlike last year I will stay in the north and add a few more day trips. I will keep you updated.

Thanks again.

I just wanted to thank all of you for your generous comments. It makes it easier to continue my canoeing which is definitely my first love. I plan to keep journeying on my three week trips as long as I am healthy. I have already planned two trips for next year depending on water levels. Unlike last year I will stay in the north and add a few more day trips. I will keep you updated.

Thanks again.