This year I treated myself to a DMT Duo-Sharp 10x4 inch bench stone (fine/extra fine) and base. Love it! Makes very quick work of bringing back a dull blade. My old setup,

Still use a strop for finishing.

butthead

I use sandpaper and a strop. I use the sandpaper to 1000 grit then go to the back and green strops. All my good knives are convex so the strop is perfect.

I found this a while ago and just re-discovered it!

Pocket sharpening gear.

butthead

That video is great stuff. He might want to make and market those.

I am a novice at knife sharpening and want to learn more. I was thinking about picking up the DVD set by Murray Carter Here

Do you guys have an opinion on these? I'm asuming that sharpening an axe is a different animal and these won't apply to that. Any help is appreciated.

Sharpening an axe is not hard but takes practice. Google "An Axe to Grind Video" You should be able to find a Video made by the USFS that gives maybe the best axe sharpening advice. Some folks use water stones but I have no experience with them and they are not practical for use in the woods. I use a 8" file to reshape the edge then use an axe puck to sharpen the blade. If you feel the need to have your axe shaving sharp then strop with green and black stropping compound on a piece of leather. Good axes such as Granfors Bruk, Wetterlings and Hults Bruk are tempered to 58 or 60 rockwell. The same hardness as a quality custom knife. Thay can be worked to be scary sharp if you desire. Link Woodtrekker blog

I bought a Wetterlings forest axe last year. I haven't used it yet but need to get some oil into it.

You can buy boiled linseed oil at any hardware store. Just put the oil on a rag and wipe it on and let it set a while and wipe off. Repeat. Old addage is once a day for a week, once a week for a month. I just put as much as the wood will take then give is a drink after the paddling season. Follow the instrucions on can as to disposal of the rags as they can combust.

Pure linseed oil will not dry out so make sure you use boiled for the handles. If you choose to soak your heads to keep them tight, (Some do not, they do not think it is needed if hung properly) use pure linseed oil as it will not dry as fast. Good luck finding pure linseed oil.

I use danish oil instead of linseed for the handles. I sand to 400 grit then apply mutiple coats of Watco danish oil and wet sand to 800 on the last couple of coats. This will make your hafts smooth as silk so you will need to rough up the handle area a little for a secure grip.

Hit the grip with 120 or the edge of a grinder for a good grip. To keep the head from rusting during a trip you can use oil and beeswax or wipe down with boiled linseed oil.

This has worked well for me and, silky finish yet dries out well.


There is a lot of free info on sharpening online, some good some bad.
A lot also depends on the type, shape, and metallurgy of the blade. Personal preferences affect method too.

butthead