Ok I read someplace that you can use a level to trim your canoe.
Does anyone know how this is done? What kind of level? I'm sure it's not a 6ft carpenters level, so what do you use and where would you set it up at.
I'd probably never do it but I just want to know how.

JB

i just eyeball it. after a few paddle strokes youll know if its wrong.
you can keep an eye on the water on the bottom of the hull too.

I agree with kanoes. Usually you can tell by paddling and adjust accordingly. Afterall you're concerned with handling characteristics and really not the level.

That said, I have brought with me before a string (?) level -- one of those that attach to a string when making batten boards for construction. They're maybe 2" long. It's a simple bubble level. I just set it on the gunnel and take a reading one way and then on a thwart for the other. I've seen guys attach them under a gunnel or thwart and have seen home builders engineer them into a gunnel or thwart.

So either just do it by canoe feel or have a tiny bubble level in a pocket/thwart bag for a quick reading.

Beavers put one his cedar strip when he made it. I thought it looked like a great idea. I was in an RV store pricing stuff that we didn't get back from our stolen camper and noticed they have small bubble levels for putting on your camper that would work great on a canoe. I'm seriously thinking of adding one to my canoe.

Question I have is: How do you determine "level". Is it how the canoe floats in the water with nothing in it?

quote PJ: "Beavers put one his cedar strip when he made it. I thought it looked like a great idea. I was in an RV store pricing stuff that we didn't get back from our stolen camper and noticed they have small bubble levels for putting on your camper that would work great on a canoe. I'm seriously thinking of adding one to my canoe.


Question I have is: How do you determine "level". Is it how the canoe floats in the water with nothing in it?"

No, canoe will always be "level" when empty. The level would be to determine the trim of you and your load. You want the canoe level side-to-side and front-to-back when calm, a little bow heavy into the wind, a little stern heavy downwind.

With a cross wind I usually have my canoe weighted towards the bow. So I think a level would be fine for calm conditions. Not so good if you needed to trim otherwise.

I agree with most that how the canoe feels is a better indicator of how well things are arranged.

Thanks guys I think I'll just go by what feels right with the handling.
I have to get the dam thing first.

JB

Put the level on your head first......you might not be square with the world. ;)
Just put a small amount of water in the canoe and see where the pool moves to with you in it. Just you on a calm day....it should pool up about under your seat. You'll have to play with some weights in the canoe to figure out how to move the pool fore and aft to adjust for head or tail winds.

I have never trimmed a canoe... haha. I bet I may get better maneuverability if I did. I may try that water method, Cowdoc.

When I built my solo canoe, I embedded a level in the gunnel & use it all the time.

quote cowdoc: "Put the level on your head first......you might not be square with the world. ;)
Just put a small amount of water in the canoe and see where the pool moves to with you in it. Just you on a calm day....it should pool up about under your seat. You'll have to play with some weights in the canoe to figure out how to move the pool fore and aft to adjust for head or tail winds."

Doc I've been a half bubble off plumb my whole life.

Now to change the thread Doc what do I need to refinish the new old CJ solo I bought. The bottom looks like she's pretty scratched.

You can see the waterline thru a skincoat canoe (if this applies to your canoe), so I do that for initial adjustment of seat/packs. After that trim depends more on paddling conditions.

butthead

quote jb in the wild: "

quote cowdoc: "Put the level on your head first......you might not be square with the world. ;)
Just put a small amount of water in the canoe and see where the pool moves to with you in it. Just you on a calm day....it should pool up about under your seat. You'll have to play with some weights in the canoe to figure out how to move the pool fore and aft to adjust for head or tail winds."

Doc I've been a half bubble off plumb my whole life.


Now to change the thread Doc what do I need to refinish the new old CJ solo I bought. The bottom looks like she's pretty scratched. "

I almost pulled the trigger early to grab that boat. A "fixer upper" project. I'd almost be tempted to grind (CAREFULLY!) those skids off. Then it needs a sanding and a coat of epoxy. Then new skids and another skim coat of epoxy (thinned with denatured alcohol).
I had visions of some new wood gunnels also and walnut deck plates....

Dam Doc you dream big. I want to put a seat in it and refinish it when it cools down a bit.
Thanks for the info I will probably have more questions around the time I refinish.

JB