On my Merlin, I was going to add 3 layers of Bias cut strips on the stems to protect and reinforce (sort of a skid-plate thing). I was in a hurry and did not do. Once again I am at the point of deciding to do or not to do.

My question, does anyone do this and do you have some tips?

I saw this technique in the Northwest Canoe Company's "Notes on the art of building the strip canoe". The bias cut strips are laid down before the main sheet of glass. I thought it was a good idea.

From the NWC book:

"Mix a slightly larger batch of resin, and with a brush, paint the stem in a strip about 6" wide and back far enough into the hull to accommodate your longest and widest bias strip.

Starting with the shortest and narrowest strip, lay it into the wet resin, and wet it out completely. Continue by laying the next strip right on top the first, overlapping the first. The last and largest strip should continue well back into the hull behind the knuckle of the stem to provide extra re-enforcement in this vital area.

The first bias strip can cover the stem from the sheer to just around the knuckle, the second from half way down the stem around the knuckle and into the hull, and the third from the 3" waterline and well back into the hull. This will provide a pattern that will put
the maximum amount of layers in the area that needs it most. Done correctly there should be very little ridge showing. Refer back to page 25."

HPD,

I did it on my Freedom, Bob's Special, and will do it on the 38 Special. I did 3 layers of 4 oz. cloth on both boats. I cut the strips about 4" wide, and applied them on top of the main layer of glass between the wet-out and fill coats. The next time I do it, I am going to cut them 4, 6, and 8" wide, and put the narrowest piece down first. It took a number of extra layers of epoxy to get everything blended in on the first two boats, and I think that progressively increasing the width would help. It is probably not as tough as a brass strip, but it sure is cheap and looks good! One thing to watch out for is air bubbles between the glass and stem strip. They are tough to get out.

By the way, why would you want to build a boat with 2,000 little staple holes in it? :)

HPD
I use/apply the bias strips of cloth. Only I put them on after the main piece of glass. No real tricks to it, just cut them clean and lay them out on a table.
I wait until the first wet out coat of the main glass is tacky to touch, then I apply the bias strips then do a fill coat of the entire hull.
If done correctly by wrapping the main layer at the stems and then putting the 3 bias strips on, the stems have 3- 5 layers of glass on it.
Back later for another fill coat. After my 2nd fill coat I will fill the bias again if needed.
The NWC Builders Notes(Originaly called the MCA Builders Book) teaches "stemless" canoe building. I have heard it called "The Minnesota Method" by some. This is how I build.
CB

Robert and Ben

Good deal some encouragement for me to proceed. Thanks for the feedback.

Both of you put the strips on after the main sheet of glass. I was thinking of putting the strips on before the main sheet (both the Gilpatrick book and the NWC builders book suggest laying up the bias strips before the main glass). Am I missing something or is after the main glass more convenient?

I think you want to put the narrow strips on first that way you bury some flaws like dangling hunks of weave. And that is why I was thinking of going main glass last (to bury odd weave).

Ben

I think 2001 staple holes ;) By the way they have all been filled with thickened epoxy. I finished sanding my hull today. I have a few spots to worry over and then it is on to bias strips.

If I keep at this canoe thing, I will try going w/o staples....... for now the little holes are a small price to pay

HPD,

I can make arguements for putting them both over and under the main glass. If you put them over the top, you have to deal with feathering in a cut edge of fiberglass 4" away from the stem. If you put the bias strips on first, you could get some staining issues in the wood because you are wetting out sections at different times, and you need to deal with a cut edge right at the stem. Neither way is perfect, you just need to pick your poison. I'm sure it will look fantastic either way.

Speaking of staples I have been using plastic staples that snap off with a scrapper, no pulling of staples ever again. Cant remember the brand right now. I get them from Northwest Canoe, they sell them along with the special staplers you need to use them. Contact NWC for more info and pricing.
CB

raptornails.com then click at applications at the top the click boat building, designed for this purpose.
NWC is a local dealer.
These things are great.
CB

Bias strips on the stems, whether on top of or under your main sheet of glass serve the same purpose... abrasion protection where you need it most.

Laying progressively larger strips down first just looks neater and saves you sanding the edges later.

Regarding those offensive 2000 staple holes... I've yet to hear anyone whine about poking holes in a birch bark canoe and stitching it up with spruce root, or complaints about the clinched over nails on a classic cedar canvas canoe. Why the obsession with making a hand crafted strip canoe look like it came out of a mold with a wood pattern printed on it?

RC

Thank you all and points well taken.

I am going to put the main sheet down first and then follow up with my bias cloth. A comment (made by Wables) about the possibility of "staining" when wetting up at different times got me to think main sheet first. I am not using a "skim coat". I would rather wet the canoe up at one sitting (standing) than take the chance of odd colors showing up around the stem

quote RedCedar: "
Regarding those offensive 2000 staple holes... I've yet to hear anyone whine about poking holes in a birch bark canoe and stitching it up with spruce root, or complaints about the clinched over nails on a classic cedar canvas canoe. Why the obsession with making a hand crafted strip canoe look like it came out of a mold with a wood pattern printed on it?


RC"

I all depends on your perspective. I have been a semi-professional woodworker in my spare time for the past 12 years. I quit 3 years ago when I got addicted to building boats. I would never build a cabinet or piece of furniture for a customer with nail/brad/screw/staple holes in it. Why would I put the time in my canoe and expect anything else?

I can't argue with you about the holes being acceptable on a classically built boat, but the strip boats we are building today aren't exactly classic. How many of us have built a boat that wasn't designed on a computer and without fiberglass and epoxy? They may borrow some of the classic lines and shapes, but these are pretty well engineered designs.

While I like to occasionally throw a jibe at HPD for using staples, it is only a small part of building a boat, and even if you only build without staples once, it will make you a better builder because you are forced to learn and develop some creative techniques in dealing with the strips that will make you a more well rounded wood worker.

The stapleless technique isn't for everybody. For me, I have a very young family, and I get an hour or two after the kids get to bed to work on the boat. Because my shop is under my youngest son's bedroom and he is a very light sleeper, using a staple gun is out of the question. I am also not in a hurry to get a boat done, so I don't care if stripping a boat takes one week or 4 months. I also enjoy stripping the boat more than any other part of the build process, so extending the experience by only doing one strip per side per night is a bonus. YMMV.

Yes it does depend on perspective. I build glass and epoxy canoes that have a wood core. I consider myself a wood worker but when building my canoes I consider myself a canoe builder. My canoes are not wall hangers but used and scratched and scrapped and repaired. I build them to take me places and do things I enjoy with my family and friends.
Do I abuse them,no. Do I use them, yes. I wet foot at every landing, but I would do that with any canoe made from any material.
I guess my goal is to wear out as many as I can.
I have built classic design to contemporary, and have enjoyed them all.
I am building a Tadpole for my son as we speak, and I wont worry if he scrathes or scrapes it. He will learn wet foot technique and take care of it and he will learn to repair it.
I dont understand why people wait "until they are retired" to build a boat or why they dont trip in them and enjoy them. Do it now and enjoy it.
I dont understand why someone would buy a Seliga canoe and let it sit on a rack because its "the last one". Joe built canoes to take people places and enjoy canoe tripping. Respect Joe by using his canoes.
Sorry for the rant, just need eto add my perspective.
CB

Easy guys, I was only asking about bias strips and not a philosophical discussion on canoe building :)

Staples or stapleless not a big issue with me. I kinda like the neat line of staple holes and I have liked the jabs thrown by Wables....... we are all in this thing together I guess because only another builder understands another builder (small world of interest).

I actually enjoy pulling staples too..... it is a mindless little task that says to me planking is done and now the fun starts.

I would probably try stapleless construction someday just to try my hand at it not because the canoe will be any better (or worse) looking.