Kawnipi thwarted.
by Thwarted
Trip Type:
Paddling Canoe
Entry Date:
05/31/2013
Entry & Exit Point:
Quetico
Number of Days:
10
Group Size:
4
Discuss Trip:
View Discussion Thread (9 messages)
Day 8 of 10
Friday, June 07, 2013This was the day to move into position to exit on day 9. The plan was to journey back through Oliphant and the B chain and camp on the south side of Pickerel. I had learned though QDP, of a nice site with a beach but we would first have to get there. On the map the journey looks challenging but doable in a day and above all, interesting. I love interesting. The day started with a slow reveal of our fog shrouded lake as a curtain lifted up and away for the final act. The port from Sturgeon is moderately challenging to find but with Sam’s GPS not an issue for us. Sam had brought a new GPS and it was a huge help locating all the portages. After Don and I had turned the wrong way a few times we had learned to let Sam and Tim lead. While it saved us considerable paddling, it was a chuckle to see Sam stop paddling while he consulted his GPS in the middle of the lake. Then he would paddle a bit to the side while he waited for the GPS to confirm his location. Then he would continue on with confidence. I liked having the GPS but have concluded that it is best held back for pinpointing the portages once you have gotten close with compass and map. The beginning of the portage to Oliphant would be a harbinger of things to come. Uphill, rocky and wet. Most of the port was dry however and it ended at a beautiful landing on Oliphant. From there to the .75 mile port from Oli to Fern is a bit farther than you might think by glancing at the map. Once at the port to Fern the best advice we had and that I now strongly endorse is to take the entire portage. There are possible put-ins to shorten the walk but they would add more work than they would save even though THIS IS A DIFFICULT UP AND DOWN PORTAGE. All of which was multiplied to us by very high water and some downed trees blocking the trail. It was obvious we were the first through this spring. Just the same I would not want to miss the unsurpassed glory of this area. Glorious sums it up. The roar of the water was our constant companion as we made our way along the climbs and drops of the trail. Often the river was surging past just a few feet from the trail and often we stood above plumes of water so loud it was hard to be heard. This is a challenging portage but it is also very rewarding. The quiet water of Fern once we arrived was a stunning contrast. There is an old burn area on the north shore of Fern that was just breaking green. The light green colors of the Aspen mixing with the pine was beautiful in the sunlight. There was a nice breeze blowing and the sky was deep blue with white fluffy clouds. We had a late lunch on the camp site near the outlet from Bud. At the site was the carcass of a huge fish skeleton that had washed up on the shore. Someone had a blast catching that thing or it had died from old age. Following lunch we did the port to Bud which was uneventful but the port from Bud to Beg was interesting. The portage trail and landing were flooded with about a foot of rushing water. We had to improvise but we did just fine. As usual, Sam and Tim arrived first and they pulled into the portage trail a half a conoe length. They unloaded from some rocks next to the boat and moved their gear and then their boat to a huge rock porch on the other side. Don and I pulled in and I was in the bow so I got out and was just standing there trying to figure out how to execute this unload when I felt a huge internal pressure. I had been eating small portions of mixed nuts all week but had been so hungry during lunch that I over did it. The gas was threatening now to blow me apart so I did what needed to be done. I was just done letting that go when Tim came back to help us. Stepping out next to me he took a deep breath and from the depth of his heart he says, “Man, don’t you just love the smell of these cedars?” I thought Don might fall out of the stern seat and drown. Tim gave us a puzzled look, took a pack, and disappeared. He still doesn’t know why we were laughing so hard. The port from Beg to Bisk was worse and had us slogging through ankle deep water and hop scotching from rock to rock. We were all wearing leather boots and determined to keep them dry inside. It was right after the port to Bisk while we were all gathered at our loaded boats and sucking wind that Don stopped us to pray. We were exhausted and had to get through Bisk and then portage to Pickerel. That was the right thing to do and I admire Don for recognizing our condition. I would like to tell you that we were supernaturally transported to Pickerel and set down gently on a beach but that would be a lie. A fun lie, but still a lie. Rather, the portage to Pickerel was the toughest of the day. Three quarters of the way through we had to wade through a flooded area of the trail that was almost hip deep in water and no way around. Tim and Sam were out front, with Tim in the lead with a pack and Sam carrying the canoe. When they got to the flooded area Tim stopped and asked, “What do we do now,” and Sam answered by walking right through. My hero! I love to travel and I love adventure but Sam is an animal. He just keeps on moving and is not intimidated. Still, we were all grateful to get to Pickerel and even more happy to finally make camp an hour after that. We was all whipped puppies. Note: The B chain is worthy territory. A week there would be a week well spent. I will go back some day and take my time. I will go later in June and work toward Oliphant and back around through Deaux Riveres or even out to Beaverhouse given the time. Sorry I don’t have more pics. of this area for you. Five star camp on Pickerel but with other trippers nearby. Pickerel is big and busy. First close company all week but they were pretty quiet. No noise from us at all. We ate dinner and went to bed after just a short sit by the fire.