Boundary Waters, Trip Reports, BWCA, Stories

3rd Annual 4 solos trip (minus one) October 2005
by Bogwalker

Trip Type: Paddling Canoe
Entry Date: 10/07/2005
Entry & Exit Point: Missing Link Lake (EP 51)
Number of Days: 4
Group Size: 3
Day 2 of 4
Saturday, October 08, 2005 Missing Link, Snipe Lake, Copper Lake, Hubbub Lake, Howl Lake, Tuscarora Lake, Missing Link

A chilly overnight but we all survive. I never did wake up to see if the Northern Lights were out. Even if I would have, I might have found it hard to leave my warm sleeping bag. Low overnight is slightly below freezing-maybe 26.

By 7:00 we are all up and out of our tents. Water is put on to boil for oatmeal and Jim and I are looking at the map to decide on a trip plan for the day. It is a little overcast-but does not really look like rain. A light breeze out of the SE accompanies the clouds. It seems like the day will be relatively calm so maybe a trip into Tuscarora is in order. Satch is looking at the map with us and spots an easy loop through Snipe, Copper and through the Howl Swamp to Tuscarora and back to Missing Link. A couple of long portages are along this way but that’s OK with me. Decision is made and Jim and I make plans to head for Snipe and beyond.

By 9:00 Jim, Satch and I are headed across the portage into Snipe Lake. Satch joins us and offers assistance on the technically tough parts around the cliff. At the far end we coordinate a time we should be at Tuscarora so if Satch wants he can meet us at the portage landing back to Missing Link. Along the way Jim and I hope to explore the creek to Little Copper and maybe see if we can get into Sora Lake. Day tripping is nice from a base camp as single portaging will be easy with a light pack. The light pack contains emergency supplies like spare clothes in case we get wet and some food along with matches and fire starters plus rain gear just in case.

It’s neither a bad day nor a great day as we start our paddle on Snipe. The overcast clouds with the breeze that continues to pick up during the day makes it cooler than it really is. We say our good-byes to Satch and head south on Snipe. Snipe is a pretty lake with lots of rock outcroppings and some color up on its hills. The lake itself is a series of narrow arms that is a fun paddle that requires frequent map checking to make sure you stay on course. We are headed to the portage to Copper Lake, which is in a small bay to the south. As we approach the small bay we see the long expanse of Snipe Lake that heads east towards Cross Bay Lake. It is a beautiful site and Jim and I both comment that hopefully tomorrow allows us back to head that way.

I am excited by this day trip, as it is all new territory for me until we get to Tuscarora. Had we continued on to Tuscarora and Crooked yesterday instead of stopping on Missing Link, we probably would have taken day trips into familiar territory for me. That would have been OK, but adding new lakes to the list is always fun. Satch’s difficulty forced us to stop on Missing Link and now allows me to explore new territory. All things happen for a reason. Jim and I are enjoying our day trip; we hope Satch is enjoying his thorough paddling and examination of Missing Link.

The portage into Copper is uneventful and we are really making good time and we do not feel like we are rushing. We have plenty of time to explore Copper without running behind on our appointed meeting time with Satch at the Tuscarora portage landing.

Copper is another pretty lake, narrow with a rocky shoreline. I find the bay that should hold the creek and entrance to Little Copper but cannot find the stream or creek. I think I can tell where it is, but it is not paddle-able and is just a trickle of water through rocks and vegetation. Oh well let’s go check out Sora Lake.

Along the south shore we hear evidence of a waterfall in the woods. We go to investigate and decide this is probably the creek coming out of Sora Lake. The waterfall is tucked back in the woods and barely visible from the water. We can see that one could get up the hill along the falls but it would be an immense amount of bushwhacking and work to get the canoe up through the trees. We decide that Sora will wait for another day or will remain forever a spot on the map not explored by us.

We continue our paddle on Copper Lake and we come to the portage out of Copper toward Hubbub Lake. The portage is uneventful and Hubbub is a quick paddle. Hubbub is slightly larger than a pond and does not provide much in the way of an enticement to keep us on her for long.

Once across Hubbub we have the medium length portage to Tuscarora through what is called Howl Swamp. The map is confusing, as it appears the portage comes to a lake-but the portage continues across the lake!! We decide to trust the Fisher map and start across expecting some surprises along the way.

About ½ way across Jim stops and puts down the canoe. I am thinking he just needs a rest, as this is a 240+ rod portage. As I approach Jim he says “Bogs-you are an expert at this type of thing-What do you think we do now?”

I put down my canoe and look at what Jim is talking about. In front of us is a large bog filled former lake with some open water in spots. I gaze across and see the portage continuing on the far shore and decide there must be a way across; we just have to find it.

The first clue is a badly broken up boardwalk that attempts to cross some of the open water directly in front of us. I decide to drop everything and scout across with no excess weight to add to my 230-pound heft. The boards of the former boardwalk assist slightly in clearing the open water, but one must be careful as they are not anchored at all, are slippery and sink into the muck and water as you pass. Once across this open water you come upon another area of water with another busted up boardwalk that yields the same challenge. After passing this area, it gets much easier but we are both glad for Chotas as you routinely sink ankle high or more into the ooze. I make it across and head back to get my load and try it with more weight. Balance is the key as you cross the broken boardwalk pieces and patience allows the rest of the bog/swamp to be passed. Along the way I see large Moose Prints, more than a single set, but alas no sign of the Moose. Once across Howl Swamp we look back and understand how the map makes it look like you are walking across open water. Back on solid land the portage continues to Tuscarora.

The Howl Swamp portage is not that tough except for the crossing described above. Soon enough we reach the large Sand Beach on Tuscarora and the wind is fairly brisk into our faces producing some whitecaps out on the lake. Tuscarora is somehow strange to us after all of the small intimate lakes we have traveled on so far this trip. It is a little passed 12 noon so we decide to take a break, have lunch and hope the wind clams a little before heading further. We decide having lunch on the portage is OK for a few reasons:

1) The beach is really long and we can eat lunch without blocking the portage.
2) In this wind we doubt many if any are traveling Tuscarora this day.
3) In October we doubt anyone is even on Tuscarora this day and we know no one is behind us.

We sit down and relax as the sun starts to break out from behind the clouds. Lunch for me is some of Jim’s outstanding T-Bird Jerky, a tortilla with peanut butter, some gorp and a couple of fun size candy bars all washed down with Crystal Lite Raspberry Ice drink.

Lunch takes about 20 minutes and the wind has subsided slightly when we finish. We decide even though we will be early for Satch’s pick up time we should head out, explore the small island and bay to our north and then head to the portage even if Satch is not there yet. We hug the north shore of the island out of the wind and enjoy the plants, lichen and rock it offers. As we clear the security of the island the wind catches us and we decide to stop and check out the campsite on the point of the bay that leads to the portage. The landing is tricky as the wind pushes us right up onto the rock outcropping. Using paddles and a quick exit keeps the Kevlar from being scratched. It is a large site with tons of room and a few tent pads. Great views to the west of the expanse of the lake but really exposed to the south wind we have today. We stay on the site for 15-20 minutes and then decide to just head for the portage. Once back on the lake we can let the wind funnel us down to the portage.

The wind has picked up again as we leave the campsite. As long as we pay attention to the troughs we will be fine. I position my bow so the wind assists me in heading toward the portage landing. As we come around a point I see the portage landing and it appears there is a figure sitting on the landing. As we get closer it is obvious it is Satch as the figure just sits there and has no gear or canoe along.

The portage landing is another sand beach and up on the ridge is a nice stand of Birch shining in the now off and on sun-white with yellow leaves. It is breathtaking and I shoot a few pictures and linger on the water taking in the amazing scene and vista.

We land and say hi to Satch and I ask how he liked the portage. The portage, Tuscarora to Missing Link, is long but not too tough. An uphill at the Tuscarora end to get the heart pumping and few other ups and downs and the passing of a former pond is the routine. At the Missing Link end it finishes off with a short boardwalk over the bog end of Missing Link to another sandy-bottomed landing. For the Gunflint side of the BWCAW these sand bottom portage landings are awesome. Not many of these over on this side of the park.

We are back at Missing Link and it is not even 2:00. The sun is out more often than not now and the temps have climbed into the 50’s. I have peeled two layers since we left this morning and we all decide more paddling on Missing Link is in order. The wind is still up, but not too much of a problem on Missing Link because it is a small, intimate lake. About 4:30 we head back to camp to get dinner started.

Dinner tonight is Fettuccine with white sauce and chicken. It is another great meal followed up with some pudding. Satch gets another fine fire going assisted by the “Tilley treatment” that Jim provides. The star with the weird red and blue flashes, that I witnessed Friday night, is out again. Satch and Jim both see it confirming I am not crazy and we all decide it is not a UFO. Satellite viewing and shooting stars (Jim sees them this time) keep us entertained until after 9:00 again. A nightcap of Cider and Brandy tops off the evening.

Jim and I add a few lakes and over 1000 rods of portages today. Good thing we were single portaging!!! Although I would have done the route even with more gear along. It was a very good day.

Should be a little warmer tonight. Tomorrow Jim and I discuss heading over to Cross Bay and Rib. We really want to explore the east end of Snipe.