Boundary Waters, Trip Reports, BWCA, Stories

Hanging out north of the South Arm
by TuscaroraBorealis

Trip Type: Paddling Canoe
Entry Date: 05/18/2020
Entry & Exit Point: Saganaga Lake (EP 55)
Number of Days: 11
Group Size: 1
Day 4 of 11
Thursday, May 21, 2020

I feel like I slept in but, find out that it really isn’t all that late when I get up. I tell myself there’s no rush anyways and I’m not going to allow myself to begin to get distressed over something that really doesn’t matter. It’s a glorious morning for a paddle. I hate to even mention it but, the air is a little heavy/humid. I tell myself that is a testament to how well things are going weather wise if that’s all I can complain about.

I methodically retrace my route from yesterday, switching up at the Knife lake portage. I paddle around the large peninsula and take the shorter portage around the rapids. This is a very scenic spot worthy of some extra exploration, and I notice right off that there are fish still trying to get up the rapids; even one (sucker) who’s ran his last rapid. Also, campsite #1997 is also easily hiked to from here. It’s a very nice pine duffed site that has a great view down Knife lake from its elevated vantage point. And, as a bonus, has a paddle someone has left behind.

As I pull into the Amoeber portage, there is a striking change from yesterday. Maintaining the apparent theme of the day, there is a half-eaten fish laying on shore just up from the lake. I scan the area but see no sign of ‘something’ waiting in the wings. As I head down the trail, I soon run across the culprit and he doesn’t appear to be going anywhere fast. It’s a large snapping turtle, and he looks full. As I finish up the portage, crisscrossing the trail several times, he remains stationary and holds his spot.

Alas, the island site is now occupied. Fortunately, the other site on the south side of the lake is unoccupied. The smallish rock shelf landing looks like trouble but, quickly proves to be adequate. There’s an ideal spot to store the Black Pearl right near the lake. The trail up to camp is overgrown but there is a nice fire grate area with excellent log seating. However, there isn’t much of a view from here. The main camp area is very exposed and there is an awful lot of brush around the perimeter and into the woods near camp. As humid and sunny as it is, and with there being virtually no shade; I determine to set up my CCS tarp; more to block the sun than the rain.

As brushy as this site is there isn’t much for legal firewood near camp. However, I do come across a decent sized popple that a beaver must have recently felled; I bring it back to camp and chop it up. As humid as it is, I have no need of a fire for comfort but, I really would like one to grill my porterhouse steak later.

Looking up every so often from setting up camp, I notice no less than 3 separate parties paddling by heading towards Topaz. I guess being cooped up for the past few months in quarantine has got a lot of people itching to get out and do something? What better place to get away than the BWCA? Andy had warned me that virtually all the permits for the holiday weekend were claimed. He had never seen that before. I guess he wasn’t kidding.

I am able to get out on the lake before supper and enjoy the exquisite paddling conditions yet again. Like most of the lakes in this immediate area, Amoeber is a very scenic lake rimmed by high bluffs and cliffs. Yet, there is an inimitable shallow area where a couple of rocks protrude in the middle of the lake. These would probably normally not be seen even with just a little wave action out on the lake. I see another group pass through to Topaz before heading back to camp to cook supper. The porterhouse steak is exceptionally tasty. I say a silent prayer thanking Ada once again for going out of her way and bringing it to me. It hasn’t been an overly exertive day but, the humidity is beginning to wear on me a little. As night begins to fall the cooling air is a welcome relief. And, I am alerted to some commotion just down the lake. Apparently, the local beavers are either having some fun, or are mad because someone took their tree? I’m hoping it’s not the latter.

As the sun begins to set there is finally some nice color in the sky this evening. While I do thoroughly enjoy contemplating beautiful sunsets, I am never really satisfied with my own photography of such things and to be frank, have grown a slightly disinterested in trying to capture a viable image as the various internet sites seem to get perpetually inundated. I didn’t really attempt to take any while on Gijikiki as the skies were virtually cloudless. Here tonight, there are. I guess old habits are hard to break, so I do snap a few pictures.

~Gijikiki Lake, Ottertrack Lake, Knife Lake, Amoeber Lake