Has anyone built one of these (Laughing Loon North-star, Baidarka--> https://laughingloon.com/north.star.html) and have any comment on the quality of the plans, concerns or suggestions. This will be my first boat and i am a little concerned that I am getting in to deep. I have found a local sawmill that can provide Northern White Cedar or Western Red Cedar in the dimensions that I need (i.e. 100 Strips at 3/16" x 3/4" x +18'). I was thinking NWC below the waterline and WRC above. Maybe some accent strips of some other wood(s). I don't have and particular reasoning, other than NWC is something that the mill has a lot of in long lengths. Above the waterline, I can use shorter pieces (WRC) because of the cockpit cut out.

My plan is to get all of the supplies/lumber over the winter and build the strong back/forms. Then be ready to start stripping in April or May. I may also start on the bow and stern pieces as well. Rob Mack, the designer recommends that. I think the plan says to expect 400 hours to complete the project. My daughter has been pushing me to build two, one for her and one for me. But 800 hours is a huge commitment. I also have plans for a Chesapeake Bay 14" stand up paddle board. I might build her one of those instead.

Other than not being smart enough to figure out how to put a link in the post, am I missing anything? Other things to consider?

Loon link
I've never built a kayak with strips before but my first reaction is that it's a bit complex for a first boat. Perhaps no more than a canoe if I'm wrong, just more time consuming. I'd be very interested in the name of the mill that has NWC.

The Mill that I am working with is Foxwalk Sawmill (https://foxwalksawmill.com/) located in Menomonie, wi. I spoke with the owner Zack Jacobson.

Thank You!!

Kenia. Actually building two at a time would save you a lot of time.
If you are steaming stems, or going stapleless, building two. Saving set up time, Glassing two canoes would also save.
I've done it that way twice now. It works. The second one benefits from the knowledge fresh in your mind from building the first.

Save yourself some big money, milling your own strips ! The Skilsaw method of cutting strips, taught me by the MCA, made it possible to build three for the price of one !

making strips

Jim

Jim, thank you very much for the link. I had not seen this process. It really makes a lot of sense. I was thinking how bad it would be to rip these on a table saw. The plans recommend strips in the dimension of 3/16 x 3/4. Do you recommend buying 3/4" boards and ripping them to 3/16?

Sorry for the late reply !

Was in the BWCA on a solo trip.

I most of my lumber for strips, from Menards.
It's #3 grade or better, finished on 3 sides. These planks vary in thickness, usually 3/4" +, sometimes up to an inch.

I sort because they let you, and I always restack the pile, as good or better than I find it !

I start Looking at the widest and longest. If I see a plank of flat grain, clear for full length strips for 1/2 the plank ? It comes home with me. I usually end up with 1" x 8" x 16' planks

I have bought 4" width planks, and edge glued them into 1 x 8" planks.

I usually rip 1/4" strips, but 3/16" would not be a problem ! I do bead and cove.


Jim

Arcola I just heard back from Zack and he says he can not provide what i am looking for. Basically he is having logs shipped in from Washington and I would have to buy the entire log for it to be feasible for him. So I will continue to look.

Good to know. I'm always keeping my eye out for White Cedar.