So I've been designing my hobby projects more and more with various CAD programs, and I just took the leap and ordered a 3D printer. It is mostly hobby/experimentation/learning-as-i-go, but I wonder: what kinds of camping/paddling equipment can I maybe print out? My machine should be able to print PLA/ABS/PETG/Nylon filaments and has a build area of 9.3 x 8.8 x 8.8 inches.
Assuming I get it to work, I think it would be easy to make a folding tripod/legs for my canister stoves, but what other goodies might be possible? Mounting clips to hold paddles while portaging? Custom rod holder? Floating case for the Inreach?

A clip to hang anything you can think of from a tarp rope such as a cup, plate, water bottle or whatever else you might want to dry or get off the ground. You could think of a Nalgene bottle holder for the canoe. I bet after you take your next trip you will have more ideas just make sure you jot them down to remember them!

Could you make a bulkhead fitting with an external thread pitch similar to a pop bottle to be used with a Sawyer mini for a compact DIY water filter. I have seen thread spec online.

plastic versions of hammock hanging hardware!

that stuff is expensive, because it's currently mostly titanium...plastic may not last 2 lifetimes but the weight differential should be minimal and the cost savings could be significant.

for ideas:

https://dutchwaregear.com/product-category/hammock-gear/hammock-suspensions/hammock-hardware/ for ideas.

Well.... for my custom thwart building I'm currently building (in my mind) I want quick attach points to hang the bag from the thwart. Don't want to fumble around with trying to wrap a buckle strap around each time. It dawned on me that common tent pole clips would be perfect (I just want it to hang there- as I will take it off and strap to my waist as I portage).





Can't find one that would be big enough to go on a typical thwart bar (I'm assuming one inch would fit- but haven't measured)

You can always make two and send me for testing! Does the 3D printer create pieces that have decent strength?

If I still had access to a Markforged I could make incredibly strong parts. With just ABS or PLA they are O.K. but need careful build and design.

To hang stuff from the thwarts I use zip ties. I throw a couple around every part of the canoe. Then I can attach anything with a caribener.

I might make a thwart mounted phone holder. I use the phone for a lake map and got a fish finder that uses the phone for Christmas. It would need a good shade so the screen could be seen in daylight.

Mora Companion Knife Sheath Ferro Rod Holder

Here are plans for a nice adaptor that I would like.

Printer has been running well for awhile now. It is super fun to be able to take ideas from design and all the way through finished part.
I haven’t made a ton of outdoor things though.
This past fall I took a tripod stabilizer I made through lacroix and down the namakan river.


Stay tuned for a new thread soon: I printed a mold to use for a custom carbon-fiber canoe seat.

Oh, also I have been testing different NACA foil sections as fixed skegs: temporarily hot gluing them on canoes to see how they perform.

muddyfeet: "Oh, also I have been testing different NACA foil sections as fixed skegs: temporarily hot gluing them on canoes to see how they perform.

"

have you noticed much leecocking in high wind with the skeg attached?

Wow Kevin, I love following your threads - you are so very creative!

BobDobbs: "have you noticed much leecocking in high wind with the skeg attached?
"

No, the idea was to get designs for a possible retractable skeg- like kayaks have used for a long time. The flatwater tracking was fantastic and I could swing maybe 8 or 9 strokes on a side before switching, but I never got it out in a high enough beam wind to know if It made a huge difference. While I still think it would be a unique addition to a canoe that sees a lot of open water, the idea has prettymuch been abandoned in favor of: 1) not cutting a hole in the hull, and 2) resorting to an overstearn rudder instead.


Also, build thread on the printed seat mold here.

muddyfeet: "

BobDobbs: "have you noticed much leecocking in high wind with the skeg attached?
"

No, the idea was to get designs for a possible retractable skeg- like kayaks have used for a long time. The flatwater tracking was fantastic and I could swing maybe 8 or 9 strokes on a side before switching, but I never got it out in a high enough beam wind to know if It made a huge difference. While I still think it would be a unique addition to a canoe that sees a lot of open water, the idea has prettymuch been abandoned in favor of: 1) not cutting a hole in the hull, and 2) resorting to an overstearn rudder instead.



Also, build thread on the printed seat mold here. "

thanks for the info....the reason I asked is that I've been in high winds in a kayak when the skeg accidentally became deployed (unbeknownst to me). It was an exhausting and frankly terrifying experience. IMO, if it happened in a canoe, the situation would have been much worse (more surface area for wind to catch).

I know this is a bit old still fresh postings may be a source of projects. Threads on Knu-Packs got me thinking printed external frame portage fittings to fit in frame tube tops.

butthead

butthead: "I know this is a bit old still fresh postings may be a source of projects. Threads on Knu-Packs got me thinking printed external frame portage fittings to fit in frame tube tops.

That would be pretty easy to design, Given the ID/OD of the frame tube.
butthead"

Attachment for my Eagle Claw telescoping rod (my backup rod)

Indexing grip "fingerboard" for kayak paddle.

Do you glue them on?

Not exactly canoe related...but I got a new pistola the other day. Going to the range tomorrow and realized I should have bought a loader. Thingiverse to the rescue. Somebody already designed one for my gun. Printed...done!

TechnoScout: "Do you glue them on?
"

Just electrical tape for now. I've been learning to use a wing paddle and trying to dial in my feather angle. The oval grip helps 1000% with keeping a looser grip on the paddle and preventing blisters.

TechnoScout: "Thingiverse to the rescue. Somebody already designed one for my gun. Printed...done!
"

Love it. And without derailing the thread, I have a few single stack compacts as well.

Someone from Texas emailed me about this thread and made a cool design for a bungee dealee bob that doesn't require a cordlock- It's on thingiverse, and looks like it could work very well.

Replacement base for a UCO candle lantern. I tried copying it to learn how to model in Fusion360. It was a difficult print and needed some custom supports in Meshmixer. It has internal threads to hold the spring in the center, internal locking tab slots to thread the candle holder on, and external locking tab slots to twist into the outer sleeve. The best orientation to print it was at a 45 deg angle.

I was eventually going to add to the base and make a cover/case that fit over the candle and threaded onto the outside of the base, but I never got around to it. I once broke a glass globe with the thing just jostling around inside my pack. I also imagined some sort of tri-folding case that opened like flower petals from the base and folded down to become a mini tripod. Maybe I'll get to it sometime!

Impressive. At my current skill level, not sure I could do that. I dont use fusion360...I hear it is great. I use FreeCAD.

muddyfeet: "
Someone from Texas emailed me about this thread and made a cool design for a bungee dealee bob that doesn't require a cordlock- It's on thingiverse, and looks like it could work very well. "

What was it called?
Did you print it?

I saw some bobber models there the other day but didn't get a chance to try and print them.

I noticed you got a new printer for the candle holder.

What was it called?

"

bungee lock

Another variation on Bungee Lock (Bungee Lock 2) printed on the 3D printer. Using a standard cord lock, I have moved the holes adjacent to each other so that when pulled tight, there is minimal rotational torque on the bungee cord. I am not sure that I even need the "wings" for this design now.

nice

Could a plastic bracket be made on your 3D printer capable of 100 lbs. of tension strength when bolted to a canoe thwart? Height may vary 1" to 4" and bottom of bracket would be flat or half round depending on thwart shape.

I made a web yoke that requires a tower bracket in some applications. Was thinking a 3D design bracket may function well and look good.



Flat bottom bracket

Tomcat: "Could a plastic bracket be made on your 3D printer capable of 100 lbs. of tension strength when bolted to a canoe thwart? Height may vary 1" to 4" and bottom of bracket would be flat or half round depending on thwart shape.


I made a web yoke that requires a tower bracket in some applications. Was thinking a 3D design bracket may function well and look good.




Flat bottom bracket


"

I think so. My dimensions are limited to a 6" cube. This appears to be well within that limit.

As far as tensile strength goes...I have never tested any of my prints. I print with PLA. I can print ABS but choose not to. ABS his higher tensile strength, I think. If we get the design right, it can be sent to a FAB to print in ABS if desired--very inexpensive.

Post a detailed, dimensioned drawing. Please use metric. I will sketch it up and see how it looks.

As far as tensile strength goes...I have never tested any of my prints. I print with PLA. "

Thank you for response.

This is the kind of foot my cheap Helinox knock off chair came with. One day I lost one and when I sat down, the chair tipped sideways dumping me on the ground. I was careful to set the chair on solider ground after that but that chair leg would eventually sink in and I'd have to move to a new spot. I wanted a better support. This is my first try with designing and 3D printing.


This wasn't exactly what I wanted to I tried again and came up with this.


Due to a computer crash I lost the file for that design so this was the next iteration.


Not what I wanted either. I wanted one that would sit flat on the ground. This is better than my second one in that the hole for the chair leg is bigger so it slips on easily but will need some glue to hold it in place. This is the last attempt.


These were all printed on an Ender 3 with 20% infill of PLA. They all are extremely light but tough. I'll try to get the files up on Thingiverse for anyone who wants to print some.

RMinMN: "
This is the kind of foot my cheap Helinox knock off chair came with. One day I lost one and when I sat down, the chair tipped sideways dumping me on the ground. I was careful to set the chair on solider ground after that but that chair leg would eventually sink in and I'd have to move to a new spot. I wanted a better support. This is my first try with designing and 3D printing.



This wasn't exactly what I wanted to I tried again and came up with this.



Due to a computer crash I lost the file for that design so this was the next iteration.



Not what I wanted either. I wanted one that would sit flat on the ground. This is better than my second one in that the hole for the chair leg is bigger so it slips on easily but will need some glue to hold it in place. This is the last attempt.



These were all printed on an Ender 3 with 20% infill of PLA. They all are extremely light but tough. I'll try to get the files up on Thingiverse for anyone who wants to print some."

Brilliant!
I am definitely interested in printing 4 of those once you can share - thanks!

I just signed up to Thingiverse and uploaded the files but there is a 24 hour hold on a new user before the files will be available. My user handle on Thingiverse is RM-MN so it will be searchable under that. Alternatively it can be searched as "Feet for camp chair".

RMinMN: "I just signed up to Thingiverse and uploaded the files but there is a 24 hour hold on a new user before the files will be available. My user handle on Thingiverse is RM-MN so it will be searchable under that. Alternatively it can be searched as "Feet for camp chair". "

I will look for them tomorrow!

I want to add an intake port to the clean water bladder of my gravity water filter system so that it can be a closed system with the intake port at the top of the bladder and a spigot at the bottom. I've been unable to find anything that would work and thought someone here might be able to 3D print one.
I would punch a small hole where I want the input port, push the port through from the inside and screw a nut on the outside to keep it secure. Sealing with silicon caulk will make it water tight. Then just attach the clean water hose to the port.

Is this something someone here could do?

RoseG: "I want to add an intake port to the clean water bladder of my gravity water filter system so that it can be a closed system with the intake port at the top of the bladder and a spigot at the bottom. I've been unable to find anything that would work and thought someone here might be able to 3D print one.
I would punch a small hole where I want the input port, push the port through from the inside and screw a nut on the outside to keep it secure. Sealing with silicon caulk will make it water tight. Then just attach the clean water hose to the port.

Is this something someone here could do?"

Looks like an interesting project. This is a small item with somewhat fine threads. That is the challenge. I have made threaded parts, but fairly large so that precision is not an issue. I have also made parts and either tapped them with threads or used a die to make threads. That works.

I tell you what...give me the dimensions you want for the tubing and I will give it a whirl. I am always up for a challenge.

Here, I hacked this together for grins

TechnoScout: "Here, I hacked this together for grins "

I put threads on it!

Yes, that's what I'm looking for!! Super cool.
It would need a nut with matching threading for the outside. The tubing I have is 9.5 mm outside diameter with internal diameter of 7.0 mm.

RoseG: "Yes, that's what I'm looking for!! Super cool.
It would need a nut with matching threading for the outside. The tubing I have is 9.5 mm outside diameter with internal diameter of 7.0 mm. "

OK, I will look into a nut solution.

You guys rock.

Love the specialty solutions to these sort of challenges. Well done!

Printed these feet for my Helinox chair. Now it won't sink into the dirt!!



Feet

My latest design in the gear forum:
Coupler

TechnoScout: Any luck with a nut solution for the water bladder port?

RoseG: "TechnoScout: Any luck with a nut solution for the water bladder port? "

Uhh...I guess I dropped the ball. Am printing a prototype now...stay tuned.

Here is the first prototype. I am printing a second with a thinner base and shorter nipple.

This is looking pretty good! A thinner base and shorter nipple will probably make it perfect.

RoseG: "This is looking pretty good! A thinner base and shorter nipple will probably make it perfect. "

I printed several and put them in the mail today.

Please post the finished modification.

I made this clip for my Nitecore flashlight. With the loop, I can hang it in my tent.

Fortunate1: "Could you make a bulkhead fitting with an external thread pitch similar to a pop bottle to be used with a Sawyer mini for a compact DIY water filter. I have seen thread spec online."

Yes...straightforward.

TechnoScout - Here is a picture of the new water system on our BWCA trip the first week of August. It's heading north for another trip today.
The port worked great. Having a "closed" system made water filtering so easy. Thanks so much!!!