Nice weather got me thinkin’! What’s your setup? I have 8 taps and store sap in 2- 35 gallon Rubbermaid garbage cans. I use two catering pans for boiling sap and put them on concrete block above the fire.

Let’s see your setup pics!

I've got 6 or 8 maples (mostly silver maples) in the yard that I could tap and thinking of trying it this year, so I'm interested to see how you all do it.

We use the plastic spiles with tubing. Last year we used milk jugs, but on the good days we were overflowing on the good trees, so we are going to do 2-gallon buckets this year with lids, and drill a little hole in the lid, as we did on the cap of the milk jug.

We'll then store these either in the snow, or our deep freezer until the weekend where we'll boil our sap and turn into syrup. We don't have time during the week since we both work full time.

We pretty much have the exact same cook-set up as you do, but we might try to seal it up a little more than last year.

One thing we learned quickly is that the filters you use to pour the sap through matters. We thought we could get away with the little paper filters, or coffee filters, or cheesecloth, but honestly go spend a little $ and get a felt filter. It really makes all the difference. We borrowed one from Canoearoo on our second run, and will definitely be buying our own this year.

We have mostly red maples and only have one little half-pint of 2019 syrup left! We have 12-15 trees.

Getting excited!

MN_Lindsey: "...
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One thing we learned quickly is that the filters you use to pour the sap through matters. We thought we could get away with the little paper filters, or coffee filters, or cheesecloth, but honestly go spend a little $ and get a felt filter. It really makes all the difference. We borrowed one from Canoearoo on our second run, and will definitely be buying our own this year.


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"

Do you filter the raw sap or filter the concentrated syrup?

I bought a felt filter last year to filter the finished syrup. It turned out a nicer finished product but we lost a fair amount of syrup to the filter.

We did the concentrated syrup before finishing off on the stove... but last year was our first year, so we're still total rookies!

Cowboy Cooker fire pit from Home Depot with steamtray pans.

This brings back great memories. I made maple syrup two times. It was quite the fun time. My buddy tapped the trees and got me 5 gallons of sap. I boiled it down on a stovetop. Took a few hours at home. We have also boiled it over a fire in big pots. I like your way much better.

Good help is hard to find... Sadie was a trooper! What ya don’t see is the 65 gal tank behind the scaffold (which was set up to block the wind. It was cold in the mornings.
Also note the tube going to the stove; I have a fan that induces air to keep the fire going hot enough when the wood isn’t burning hot enough.

OCDave: "


Cowboy Cooker fire pit from Home Depot with steamtray pans. "

Now that looks therapeutic.

it was -13 last night, we haven't started yet

I have tapped 100 trees in the past. My buddy has a small arch and can boil off 50 gallons a hour. He also has a nice RO filter that takes a lot of water out.

I average 1100 gals each year and take it to my buddy. He gives me half the syrup back.

I use bag hangers and have a 50 gal tank behind the ATV. On a really good day, I get over 50 gallons of sap. That gets pumped into a 270 gallon tote on a trailer for transport to the sugar shack.

I just upgraded my setup this week. I bought a barrel on CL and a barrel stove kit at the big box store. Together it was $75. I cut the top portion out of the barrel to rest my pans on the top edge. Gave it a whirl And I think it will do great! I simply used a 4” angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and it was a breeze.

Thanks for starting this. I'm actually thinking of trying this as a fun experiment, to see if I want to do more next year.

I have a few idiot questions.

I'd like to do this as cheaply as possible...if I order spiles online, shipping kills me.

I was thinking of using copper tubing. Would that work? if so, recommended OD? 3/8"?
Then, run some tubing into some food grade buckets (at the base), or, even 2L jugs hung on the tree with a nail (to be removed after season is over).

How far do you drill into the tree? I've seen a few different vids go from 1.5 - 5" (for thick trees). What is the rule of thumb?

Where can you buy a filter from? I was thinking of maybe a wine making/beer making supply place? Fleet? Menards?

For reference, I have 4 - 20-30" old maples in the yard. My thoughts are to just tap to collect 10-15gal, and do a stove top boil.

How many taps do I need? My thoughts are to just tap 2/tree. So 8 total? If I need to, I have access to other trees, if I want more sap. But, i 'think' just my 4 trees will give me what I need. I dunno.

Can you tap the same tree next year?

My biggest concern is damaging or killing the trees.

Thanks in advance for the answers!

After tapping for many years I sold my hobby farm and moved closer to town. The new owners made me promise to teach them the trade so will do that soon. Little early yet for Minnesota as we have plenty of snow in the woods. Thanks everyone for sharing their set-ups!

SammyN: "Thanks for starting this. I'm actually thinking of trying this as a fun experiment, to see if I want to do more next year.


I have a few idiot questions.


I'd like to do this as cheaply as possible...if I order spiles online, shipping kills me.


I was thinking of using copper tubing. Would that work? if so, recommended OD? 3/8"?
Then, run some tubing into some food grade buckets (at the base), or, even 2L jugs hung on the tree with a nail (to be removed after season is over).


How far do you drill into the tree? I've seen a few different vids go from 1.5 - 5" (for thick trees). What is the rule of thumb?


Where can you buy a filter from? I was thinking of maybe a wine making/beer making supply place? Fleet? Menards?


For reference, I have 4 - 20-30" old maples in the yard. My thoughts are to just tap to collect 10-15gal, and do a stove top boil.


How many taps do I need? My thoughts are to just tap 2/tree. So 8 total? If I need to, I have access to other trees, if I want more sap. But, i 'think' just my 4 trees will give me what I need. I dunno.


Can you tap the same tree next year?


My biggest concern is damaging or killing the trees.


Thanks in advance for the answers!



"

I have all the same questions.

airmorse: "

SammyN: "Thanks for starting this. I'm actually thinking of trying this as a fun experiment, to see if I want to do more next year.



I have a few idiot questions.



I'd like to do this as cheaply as possible...if I order spiles online, shipping kills me.



I was thinking of using copper tubing. Would that work? if so, recommended OD? 3/8"?
Then, run some tubing into some food grade buckets (at the base), or, even 2L jugs hung on the tree with a nail (to be removed after season is over).



How far do you drill into the tree? I've seen a few different vids go from 1.5 - 5" (for thick trees). What is the rule of thumb?



Where can you buy a filter from? I was thinking of maybe a wine making/beer making supply place? Fleet? Menards?



For reference, I have 4 - 20-30" old maples in the yard. My thoughts are to just tap to collect 10-15gal, and do a stove top boil.



How many taps do I need? My thoughts are to just tap 2/tree. So 8 total? If I need to, I have access to other trees, if I want more sap. But, i 'think' just my 4 trees will give me what I need. I dunno.



Can you tap the same tree next year?



My biggest concern is damaging or killing the trees.



Thanks in advance for the answers!




"

I have all the same questions.


"

I’ll do my best.

I’ll start out by saying that I started out the same as you trying to save money. using copper pipe, flexible plastic tubing,and 5 gallon buckets. That being said, I now use the blue bags and holders and spiles meant for sapping.

I use the blue bags and actual spiles now because they’re just better for the job- that’s from experience doing it both ways.

Honestly, you might end up Saving 10-15 now, but spend more later when you decide to use better materials. Also the copper pipes will leak slightly since they’re not flared to create a tight seal.

Fleet farm has the spiles, bags, and holders.

Now for your questions in order

3/8 is about perfect. 3” deep is as well- not sure that it matters as long as it’s producing. Just get 3/8 ID tubing to run from copper pipe to bucket. Regular 5 gallon bucket is fine- just set it in the ground. I tried hanging in the past, easier on the ground though. (But again, I can’t stress how much better the blue bags are- honestly just do that!)

Never used a filter- but I assume fleet farm has as well. I Just a real fine mesh strainer on the final product to get all the crap out. Actual sediment isn’t bad- besides it settle at the bottom anyways. you just want all the bigger crap out. Even if you have some sediment, it will settle at the bottom of the container- don’t eat it. If it bothers you that it’s there you can pour off the “good stuff” into another container and leave the sediment

Stove top boil is a great way to start. Obviously will take a lot of time and your house will get very humid lol. People use wood fires because it’s more economical, and frankly a little bit of smoke taste is good.

I think the rule is 1 tap for every 10” or something similar to that- so 2 taps on your trees are fine.

You’ll have more than enough from just your 4 trees. My guess is 4 trees with 2 taps each will give you about 80-100 gallons give or take....

You can tap the same tree every year. Just change spots obviously. It doesn’t hurt the tree one bit.

You’ll also need a container to hold the sap in when collected. Empty your buckets or bags into that.

Have fun. And again- skip the buckets and get the bags!!

My son is getting ready he just brought a RO system that well reduce his cook time by 3/4s.

They plan to do about 150 gallons of finished syrup this year.

We put in our taps yesterday. Looks like the flow is on

Boiled down about 60 gallons today on my new setup- and only early March. I think it’ll be a good year!!

Just started flowing some here today. Not every tree yet, but looks to be a good week!

40 gallons from 4 trees this week. Boiling some tonight and the rest tomorrow. Simple setup...2 turkey frying stands with propane. Wide pots that will hold 2 gallons each. Finish on the stove and experiment with added flavors.

Sugarbush outside Grand Marais. First year experimenting with 3/16" tubing collection system to generate natural vacuum. Perfect set up for this, with a 50' rise in elevation over the first 250 feet from the collection point, then up to a plateau where the slope continues upward more gradually. 18 lines averaging 28 drops each, total of 500 taps. Sap ran Feb 29 & Mar 1, early for up here but collected about 150 gallons. Amazing to observe the sap flow with vacuum measuring >25 in. Hg vacuum at end of lines. Transporting sap via IBC tote to friends sugarhouse (4000 tap sugarbush) for boiling and hot-packing.
Quiet for the last week, but looking good in the days ahead!

To SammyN
Some answers to your questions based on experience syruping for 25 years, starting with a few trees in the beginning as you are, from working with a commercial syrup producer with a 4000+ tree sugarbush and also staying on top of latest research from the national maple think tanks such as Proctor Maple Research at University of Vermont.
Spouts & tree health:
1) Use 5/16" diameter spouts or less. Industry standard now for tree health. Suggest not using the old 7/16" diameter spouts. 1 per tree. Yes, some guidelines (including Mn DNR and USFS) allow more taps on larger diameter trees but it's recommended by those in the industry who are experts in maple forest health to stick with 1. You could go to 2 taps, but I personally would not. Copper is NOT a good choice for a spout, if that's what you're suggesting, and also if you're thinking copper for collection system, not sure what you have in mind but also wouldn't recommend. Commercial spouts are very inexpensive, order from Roth Sugarbush / CDL of Wisconsin (assuming you're in Mn/Wi/Mi/Ill). Shipping is not bad. Depth of hole 1 1/2" to 2" max. 5"? No way. Establish a tapping pattern if you will tap the tree every year, so that you tap at least 2" horizontally and ideally 15-16" vertically from prior year tap hole. Follow a clockwise pattern around the tree so that by the time you reach the same face again as year #1, the tree has grown new sapwood over the old wounds and you won't be drilling into compromised wood from old tapping holes. I've seen the impact from improper tapping on trees. It may take several years, but it will catch up to them, particularly where they are stressed or not in ideal growing conditions.
2) Key to good sap production is cleanliness. The introduction of bacteria and contamination of the sap hole speeds closure of pores that allow sap flow. Commercial producers typically use new spouts every year. Smaller producers who reuse spouts clean them well with a disinfecting agent. Too much on that to go into here.
3) For the quantity of trees you're considering and with the size of tree you have, I suggest using something larger than a 1 gallon jug for collection as some days a tap will give significantly more sap than 1 gallon depending on location, soil type, tree crown and health. Food grade buckets of 4 gallon size or so work well, and you can easily find grocery stores that have surplus icing / frosting buckets of that size they will often give you for free. Or, purchase sap sacks, which also work very well but have some cost. You can fashion a sack holder in various ways as an alternative to buying them.
Filtering
At your scale, suggest going to Fleet Farm and buying a box of milk filters. They won't filter out all of the minerals (sugar sand) that precipitate out, but some. After boiling to the proper density, filter (you can stack filters a few layers so that as one becomes clogged you remove that layer and proceed) then let the syrup cool and sit in container (glass or stainless steel) for a day or two until the sugar sand settles to the bottom and then pour off the clear syrup into a new container. Less syrup waste. You can still use the "slurry" left behind, nothing wrong with it but the sugar sand does affect the taste somewhat, and of course it's not as appealing to the eye. Then, I would reheat the clear syrup to bottling temp and hot pack for proper sealing. Otherwise, keep refrigerated to retard mold growth.
Quantity
Figure about 1 quart of finished syrup per tap on average. That's a very general number, and your yield can increase or decrease depending on many factors such as sugar content in the sap (can vary significantly) weather, tree health, care in tapping & cleaning, etc. I've had 1/2 gallon or more per tap from specific trees iwith 4%+ sugar content in the sap.

Good to hear you're concerned about tree health - that's #1 to protect this sustainable resource.

Mike

You recommended in the post above that the syrup sit for a day or two in a glass or stainless steel container before bottling. What type of container is preferred for bottling? I used these this year...any concerns about this type? I cleaned them in very hot water in advance.



JJ

JimmyJustice: "Mike

You recommended in the post above that the syrup sit for a day or two in a glass or stainless steel container before bottling. What type of container is preferred for bottling? I used these this year...any concerns about this type? I cleaned them in very hot water in advance.
JJ "

You're fine. I just personally prefer glass for bottling syrup over plastic because I don't like pouring 190 degree syrup into plastic and prefer to avoid storing my syrup in plastic long term.
It's thought (I don't have the studies to point to right now) that glass is better for storing syrup longer term due to the molecular structure of plastic being more susceptible to harboring bacteria.

The key to long term storage of unrefrigerated syrup is to bring it to 180 -200 F during the bottling process to kill any bacteria that may be in container or for that matter the syrup if it has been stored open for any period of time.