BWCA Rite of Passage - Ideas? Boundary Waters Trip Planning Forum
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Tippy
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10/24/2024 05:15PM  
Hello All!

I'm considering a "rite of passage" trip for my son. He'll be 12 or 13 depending on if we go next summer, or the next. Our schedule can handle 7-14 days easily, maybe more. I'd prefer around half the days travel and half in camp so there's plenty of time to enjoy ourselves - explore, fish etc. The priorities are solitude, beauty, and wildlife. I'm leaning towards Quetico in late August or September, but our schedule is flexible. As far as our skill level goes we love to camp, backpack, and I grew up canoeing, though mostly on rivers. We're both in good shape.

I'd love to do a fly-in, but I've been told fly-ins require "advance skills." I'm not sure what that means. We'll have plenty of time to hunker down for bad weather and not take chances. Of course, we'll take an emergency communication device and GPS (if recommended). My canoe skills aren't going to win me an Olympic medal, but I can paddle well enough that I don't really think about it when I am canoeing. Safety is obviously very important when you're taking your kid. If there's something I'm overlooking please share your thoughts. There's plenty of time to learn between now and then.

The time of year, route, budget etc is all flexible. I think I'm annoying some outfitters calling/emailing and asking questions so I thought I'd post here. Any route suggestions? Quetico/BWCA? Thoughts on prepping for the trip? Ideas in general about the "rite of passage" idea?

Thanks in advance!

Jeff
 
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10/24/2024 07:04PM  
Do a week in Quetico (Never been there myself, but the pictures and stories I've read tell me it is an amazing experience).

Take another week or more and take an ocean cruise from Vancouver, BC up the coast (Ketchikan, Juneau, Skagway, Glacier Bay National Park, AK to Anchorage) and maybe a few extra days to head north to Fairbanks. Fly back from Fairbanks.

You won't regret the Alaska part of the trip, for sure. Best non-BWCA trip I've ever been on. I took Holland America for the Alaska trip. Quality outfit. We spent 11-12 days on the Alaska trip and hit Denali Park as well. Took a small plane on the last night from Fairbanks to Coldfoot and Wiseman, AK (just south of the Brooks Range and about 65 miles north of the Arctic Circle). This part wasn't cheap, but it fulfilled my desire to be as far north as I will likely ever journey to.

You only live once, and your son will never forget these trips.

Tom
10/24/2024 09:02PM  
You of course know your son better than any of us, but make sure he is involved in the planning process and has a voice in the decisions being made so that this trip is about him since that seems to be your goal. Also, make sure the length you are proposing fits for him, my very outdoors oriented now 17 year old son at 12 would not have wanted to stretch beyond a 7 day trip. Now? Sure. Then? Not a chance.
Jackfish
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10/25/2024 07:00AM  
Similar story on our end. My two great friends and I had boys born a total of six weeks apart in 1990. One of the first things we talked about was, "When will they be old enough to go to Quetico with us?" As our trips continued while they grew, we kind of estimated that 12 years old would work. They'd be old enough to do ok in the bow of the canoe and old enough to be able to handle a portage with an appropriately-sized pack and have fun.

We went to Quetico in June of 2012. Unfortunately, before we could even get into the park, the horrific rains that we'd been driving in washed out a stretch of Hwy 11 west of Flanders Road, the gravel road that would take us into the Beaverhouse landing. We ended up backtracking and driving to Ely to spend five days on Big Lake off the Echo Trail. A sub-par substitute to Quetico, but a substitute nonetheless. The boys, and their dads, still had fun.


In 2013, with the boys now 13 years old, we made it into Quetico. Badwater Lake. They have all gone on multiple trips with us now. I hope you cherish the planning, preparation, and the actual trips as much as we have. Introducing young people, especially one's own sons or daughters, to canoe tripping, can be very rewarding. It certainly has been to us.
papalambeau
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10/25/2024 07:31AM  
Tippy ( love the name), 12 years old is more than ready for a wilderness canoe trip. Our right of passage age was 8, when they finished 2nd grade, and my three boys did great in the bow and we have been going in for over 35 years. The grandkids have all gone in for their first trips after finishing 2nd grade and now our group is at the max of 9 in four canoes. The right of passage when they finish 2nd grade is a big deal and they all talked about it once they hit second grade. The youngest one is in 4th grade now and they all look forward to the first week of June BWCA trip each year.

I agree that the length of the trip should be a major consideration. For the first trip it is especially true that you want the length to leave your son "wanting more". You don't want him feeling, "when is this going to be over". We have found that a seven day, six night trip is just about perfect for everyone.

Some of the first areas that we went out of were EP 37 out of Kawishiwi and EP 14 Little Indian Sioux. Both give you multiple lakes with good fishing, nice route choices and beautiful scenery.

Enjoy the trip planning and anticipation.


TuscaroraBorealis
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10/25/2024 08:40AM  
Maybe incorporate the "Height of Land" portage (North- South lakes on the border) and use a cedar bought to sprinkle him with water like the Voyageurs did long ago. You may want to skip the shot of rum which was also part of that ritual. :)
Tippy
member (8)member
  
10/25/2024 11:01AM  
Thank you so much for sharing! This is what life is for isn't it!
Tippy
member (8)member
  
10/25/2024 11:04AM  
Thank you for the advice!

Any special things you do with the kids on the first trip?
Tippy
member (8)member
  
10/25/2024 11:05AM  
I'm new here and thought my replies would come under specific comments. Apologies.

Does anyone have an area or lake they'd recommend? Again, solitude, beauty, and wildlife are the priorities.

Considering Kawnipi via Falls chain in August or September with a VERY flexible schedule. If my son wants to stay in a place longer, or explore somewhere that peaks his interest on the map, then that's what we'll do.

Seriously, thank you everyone!
10/25/2024 12:29PM  
Great post, Tippy.

I'm going to second a questico trip with either a beaverHouse or french lake entry. There are Canadian outfitters that will work with you to shuttle your vehicle for $ or $$.

On quetico lake there are multiple pictographs worth exploring, lots of spacious campsites, fishing, and then access to adjacent lakes.
If a mile portage would be too much you could opt to stash your canoe off the portage and then hike across from quetico lake to badwater lake.
I really enjoyed this portage even though it was a low water year and added some extra at the start that was clearly visible when looking at others photos of same landing.

Should you choose to be adventurous and haul your gear across, there are nice sites on badwater. The next couple portages into your and those lakes you will find old logging relics. Some are half consumed by the earth and moss but still quite interesting to look at

If you choose french lake you will paddle across that lake and into a river system where you just might see some moose!
From my memory I don't know what's next. Maybe pickerel,which is a long east/west lake. Always start your day early to get as Far as possible by 10-noon. Seems the wind picks up around then.

I am no fan of moving water so can't help u with the falls chain in June. Expect high fast water at portage entry and exits.

If you choose to stay in bwca, a nice route would be incorporating lakes in the Clearwater area off the gunflint trail. You could head east from Clearwater to west and east pike lakes and circle around through john to north fowl and then you're along the international border lakes of moose, some little puddle jumps, mountain. You can head back to Clearwater from mountain, or if you have time continue along the border to rose and then do the stairway portage from Rose to Duncan, west bearskin to the Clearwater road, then walk back to the outfitter to your car.

There are other routes in this area and those could be more populated in June because they are easier routes.

If you don't mind including a longer portage on your route you might be likely to see fewer people.

Guess I should have asked if this is a fishing trip or a travel trip. The routes I suggested are more travel with the option of fishing once camp is set up
Not so much fishing as you're traveling.

Once you've talked with your son about what he'd like to do or see on his first trip, let us know and I'm sure we could narrow down the opinions to what matches what you both want to do.

Got maps? Or a large overview map to help orient you in this initial planning stage would be so helpful.
Jackfish
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10/25/2024 12:37PM  
Tippy: "Does anyone have an area or lake they'd recommend? Again, solitude, beauty, and wildlife are the priorities.

Considering Kawnipi via Falls chain in August or September with a VERY flexible schedule. If my son wants to stay in a place longer, or explore somewhere that peaks his interest on the map, then that's what we'll do."

Tippy... personally, I'd suggest a shorter trip. Kawnipi and the Falls Chain not only are deep into the park, but there are challenging put-ins, take-outs and portages.

Travel in a handful of portages, then base camp and fish... or maybe move once so you have two different campsites. You really aren't sure how things will go overall, so don't over-do it on this first trip. Paddle, portage, explore, fish, throw rocks in the lake, cook great meals, and bond... there will be plenty of time for Kawnipi and the Falls Chain as he gets older.
10/25/2024 12:47PM  
I'm pretty sure the standard Rite of Passage for the BWCA is to unknowingly put a cast-iron frying pan in the newbies pack. :)
OldGuide2
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10/25/2024 01:00PM  
It might help if you were better able to nail down exactly what you want to see and do on the trip. You mention solitude and wildlife, but how much solitude and what kind of wildlife? For example, there are places where you are more likely to see moose.

As for solitude, do you want lakes where you will probably not see people and have only a few campsites? The fewer campsites, the less likely you will see someone. Do you want places with pictographs or stands of virgin pine or waterfalls or cliffs? You don't mention fishing, but is that a priority?

All of these have trade-offs. How much difficult portaging or paddling on big water are you willing to tolerate to find that solitude? Going into lakes with fewer campsites can also be risky in that they all may be taken. You might do a search for other father/son trip reports on this site for ideas.

Having said all that, I will add that the best part of the BWCA is the unexpected. How you and your son handle that will be the true right of passage.

Take nature for example. Some of my best memories are of things experienced that I never expected. We were just up there a few weeks ago and experienced the eagle migration, northern lights, and heard wolves across the lake howling at the lights, none of which we planned on.

I think your instincts about the Quetico make sense. Good luck to you. We started taking our son into the BWCA when he was five and have been doing trips ever since.
Tippy
member (8)member
  
10/25/2024 04:25PM  
Thank you, again, for all the help.

I'm not exactly sure how to answer some of the questions. We would definitely like to fish. I'm not too concerned about portages, but maybe I should be - a few to get away from people would be fine, even longer ones. We'll rent the lightest gear and our backpacking gear is mostly measured in ounces not pounds.

To synthesize the advice, it seems maybe a hybrid basecamp approach might be what we should be looking for, or a region, where we have options and my son can plan our route as his interests lead him.

He'll definitely want to fish. Pictographs would be amazing, but not required. If we could see a moose and hear wolves it would feel like a grand slam trip for us.

An outfitter suggested a loop from Cache Bay through Lilypad and Jasper. I notice there's Blackstone that way as well.

I haven't thought much about the west side of Q. Most outfitters seem to be on the south or north. Are there any small loops, or destinations, that fit what we're discussing here there?

Thanks everyone so much. I'll be sure to share photos after we make this trip. Of course, you'll all want to see pice of the moose, wolf, and bear we'll see ;-) Since grand slam is taken I'll call it the "Big Three," like the "big 5" in Africa. Ha!

Seriously, thank you so much. I'm very interested in the west side. I still wish we could fly in.
Gunwhale
member (41)member
  
10/25/2024 04:26PM  
As age appropriate: sing a verse of US and Canadian anthems, optional 1st verse of "O Canada" in French ( but only if they play hockey.)

OR

Take turns reading aloud by the fire: "The Cremation of Sam McGee."

After which they are awarded a Voyageur Hat ( or Tuque depending which side of the High Line you are on) or stocking cap with tassel.



bottomtothetap
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10/25/2024 05:08PM  
We once told a newbie that our "Rite of Passage" includes the first-timers memorizing Longfellow's "Song of Hiawatha" and reciting it as we drive past Lake Superior on the way to the BWCA. We acknowledged that it was a long poem but that he had a whole 90 days to learn it. On get-away day he said he was pretty sure he was ready.

Our trip was out of Ely and when we got close to town he grabbed the map to realize we were not driving past Lake Superior at all and that he was never going to have had to recite it. :)

A couple of days later he did so around a campfire any way and did really well! This earned some some extra pulls of bourbon from the flask we'd brought along.
10/26/2024 05:53PM  
Just make sure he is enjoying himself. He is only twelve. IMO he doesn't need to bust his ass on portages and chores. Your ultimate goal is to keep him wanting to return with you. From my experience, he will acquire knowledge and skills over time and develop the responsible habits of an adult. If life on a canoe trip is too grinding now, you may lose him. To that end I wholeheartedly endorse your idea of layover days.

I began my father/son trips when my son was fifteen. He's twenty now and completely self-sufficient. Insists on portaging the canoe. Even does the complete drive from Toronto to Atikokan (over two days).

It's great watching your kid develop into a man. These types of excursions - being a year apart - are great yardsticks for measuring it.

All the best on your journey!
10/26/2024 08:55PM  
Quetico is great, and in terms of planning not really any different or more complicated compared to the BWCA if entering from the US (except you need a passport and maybe a RABC permit, depending on which ranger station you have to stop at to get your permit when you enter).

The first time I took my son, he was 9 or 10. We did a loop entering and exiting thru Bottle - went thru Iron, McAree, Roland, Argo, Crooked and back out Iron and Bottle - a week-long trip. He was fine. I like that route for kids (Rebecca Falls, Curtain Falls) and the tow from Crane Lake to Bottle and back out is awesome - definitely worth doing at least once. For that trip I like Anderson’s (Crane Lake) as the outfitter.

Another option would be to do a loop entering at Prairie Portage (via Moose) - starting out of Ely.

Below is a picture of my son on Bottle portage on the way out (2010).
gravelroad
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10/27/2024 11:58AM  
I was in the midst of recommending the Falls Chain when I saw the comments above.

My recommendation stands. Yer kid ain’t never gonna forget this trip, and it may well warp him for life:

Falls Chain to Kawnipi Lake
straighthairedcurly
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10/27/2024 09:09PM  
TuscaroraBorealis: "Maybe incorporate the "Height of Land" portage (North- South lakes on the border) and use a cedar bought to sprinkle him with water like the Voyageurs did long ago. You may want to skip the shot of rum which was also part of that ritual. :) "


I was also going to suggest this.
piscatorjunket
  
10/28/2024 08:58AM  
My wife and I started with my son and daughter when they were 7 and 9.
We did our third Q trip this summer and have already developed some rituals and rites of passage.

It's pricey, but we stay at a nice spot before and after our trips to the Q. Camp Quetico and Voyageur Wilderness are awesome spots run by wonderful people (Canoe Canada, too but we like something more than the bunkhouse).

We base camp and explore. Next year we plan to move more. I like French Lake entry because we love visiting the center and the library in the basement.

Buckingham is a beautiful lake and a good basecamp lake within a days paddle from either French or Stanton bay.

We love playing games in camp. This year we inadvertently brought a golf ball (left in a rain jacket) and this turned into a makeshift mini golf tournament around camp using sticks as clubs.

Give your kid a kindle and bring a hammock. We are all readers and it's wonderful camp down time activity.

If you can, bring an elder. Grandma has joined us on all three trips and it adds depth to the experience. She is an amazing camper and decent enough paddler and the quality time my kids spend with her in the wilderness setting is priceless. She is wise and it rubs off on the kids, especially in the woods.

Girls tent and boys tent with walkie talkies to communicate between them. Lots of laughs.

The portages, catching (and losing) fish, handling weather, swimming, catching frogs are all rites of passage in and of themselves.

Swimming in our clothes. At least once a trip we jump in with our grimy clothes. Cleans em up a bit and on a warm day with quick stuff you dry out soon enough.

Find blueberries. Another rite of passage. We love finding and picking and making the pancakes.

We stop in Cloquet every year on our way back to the Twin Cities. There is a mini golf area on the north end of town that we always stop at and play.

What I would like to add to future trips:

Teach the kids how to tie knots before the trip so that fishing pole maintenance and tying on lures does not fall so much on me.

Night paddle. Wake up at 4am and paddle into the dawn.

Storytelling and poem memorization (love the song of Hiawatha idea)

Safety first! I am a cautious Daddy out there.

Safe travels..

Tippy
member (8)member
  
10/28/2024 09:39AM  
YaMarVa: "I'm pretty sure the standard Rite of Passage for the BWCA is to unknowingly put a cast-iron frying pan in the newbies pack. :)"


LOL...we did that to my dad on a backpacking trip when I was a kid.
Tippy
member (8)member
  
10/28/2024 09:53AM  
Question:

What basecamp locations would you all suggest into Q via Hook Island/Cache Bay?

I really like the suggestions around Beaverhouse earlier as well.
Jackfish
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10/28/2024 11:03AM  
Tippy: "I really like the suggestions around Beaverhouse earlier as well."

You have a few options when it comes to Beaverhouse. You can paddle/portage into Cirrus or Quetico Lake and find campsites all over. Good fishing and some circle route opportunities, too.

You can head into Cirrus, paddle down to Sue Falls, take the somewhat challenging portage into Kasakakwog, then head into Quetico Lake and back to Beaverhouse. You could also do this route in reverse.

You could also paddle into West Bay of Quetico Lake and do the Mile Portage into Badwater. The portage is pretty challenging, but it depends on what you want to tackle.
10/29/2024 09:47AM  
This is going to be their first trip? I went with my son for the first time this year. He's 9 years old and we just did a 3-day trip. It was mostly a test to see how he did and if I should be investing in gear for him. I might recommend doing something similar to ease into it instead of diving in head first.

Has he ever been camping before? Does he have gear to travel light and sleep comfortably for that long? Is he physically fit enough enjoy that long of a trip? Just want to make sure he's up for this. Too much too fast is a good way to make a trip miserable. Better to leave them wanting more.
Tippy
member (8)member
  
10/29/2024 11:17AM  
A1t2o: "This is going to be their first trip? I went with my son for the first time this year. He's 9 years old and we just did a 3-day trip. It was mostly a test to see how he did and if I should be investing in gear for him. I might recommend doing something similar to ease into it instead of diving in head first.


Has he ever been camping before? Does he have gear to travel light and sleep comfortably for that long? Is he physically fit enough enjoy that long of a trip? Just want to make sure he's up for this. Too much too fast is a good way to make a trip miserable. Better to leave them wanting more."


We backpack some. He's always asking to go camping. We have plenty of good gear.

You and others are right, better to leave him wanting more. I'm thinking of a shorter trip next summer. The following summer maybe we can do something 7days+ if he's up for it.

Thanks for your thoughts.
10/29/2024 12:19PM  
I took my oldest son on his first trip when he was 6. The first two years we went from Lake One to Insula. We've been on a lot of trips since then. He turns 40 today and I got a text from him saying that if he could snap his fingers and be anywhere he would be with me, his brother, his nephew and my dad in canoes fishing up north!

So many good memories. Not only on the water but also in Ely, Grand Marais, and all along the north shore. Betty's Pies, Kendall's smoked fish, even the Dairy Queen in Ely.

My advice is to be flexible and have fun. If the fishing gets boring take him back to camp to swim or whittle or even take a nap. Learn knots, throw rocks, sing, draw pictures and keep a journal.

We slept in a tent but always made good use of a hammock for hanging out.


May your memories and his be as good as ours.
10/30/2024 04:35PM  
One other option - since you have up to two weeks, you could do a 5 or so night north Quetico trip (Beaverhouse, Nym, or French Lake entry) paired with a fly-in fishing trip to a northern Ontario outpost cabin. Lots of fly-in options, but Nestor Falls Fly-in Outposts was awesome when I took my son, father and uncle on a trip a couple years ago. The walleye fishing we had on that trip was spectacular!
 
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