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ChazzTheGnome
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03/28/2011 07:51AM   (Thread Older Than 3 Years)
So, I am planning on building a stripper next spring and I thought as a nice warm up I would work on a few paddles this spring and summer. I have been looking all over the web for info and for design ideas from the some of the big companies and I have a couple of questions for you guys.

Wood species:
A lot of the wood paddle makers state that they use red and white cedar for their paddles so I went off to my local menards just to check out what they have and their bins just have ‘cedar’ in them. Maybe I need to hit the books a little more but where can I easily and cheaply get some of these different typs of wood? For the first paddle or two I am not worried, I just want to get the design and process down. But when I get a little more confident and want to make a real perdy one I really want some of that color variation. Should I just look for the variations in the boards from menards or is there something else I should be looking at.

Design:
For those of you who have made paddles, what have you used to help with the initial design? I know a few of the things that I am going to want (grip style, length, and blade shap/size) but some of the finer points and just overall look, what do you like? Hoe many laminates do you use in the shaft (5 and 7 seem to be common with the big boys)? Do find it hard to keep the shaft pronounced through the blade, like in a saywer paddle, is it just easier to blend the shaft into the blade, like most others?

Just some thoughts that I had on the way into work this morning. Thanks for all your input in helping me get started on this ‘journey’.

 
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moosedrool
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03/28/2011 08:53AM  
i'm currently working on 3 paddles, i've probably made about 20 or so by now.

I'd maybe start with a straight shafted paddle, that is how i got going and it's nice not having to build a form to do the bend for you. go for a bent if you like however...

I have now switched over completely to basswood for my choice of wood. It is cheap, carves well, and is light and strong. cedar will work just fine too and will give you the same characteristics.

You may also want to look into a reinforced tip for your paddles, i use a low density filler mixed with expoxy for that and it does a great job of protecting my paddle blades from rocks, etc. Look into west systems products for that and for epoxy...

for straight shafted paddles, i still laminate the shaft - usually around 4 strips, for bent, i'm settling in on 6 lately.

Blade shape, just copy the general idea of one you have laying around, hand grip - this is where it gets really fun. mimic something you already like, and then continue to shape it until it feels comfortable in your hand - this is my favorite part of building paddles...

I buy most of my lumber at youngblood lumber in mpls, although siwek in jordan and mpls also sell basswood.
 
03/28/2011 09:39AM  
For my 'CanYak' paddle I laminated some cedar left over from building my Merlin with a bit of maple left over from the gunnels to give it a bit more stiffness. For the blade I also put some of the maple and a different cedar board that was darker in color for some contrast.

JD

 
ChazzTheGnome
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03/28/2011 06:54PM  
so another question for you guys. i am thinking that for the first few paddles that i make i am more thinking of improving my design and building technique so i am not going to worry about the epoxy tip or fiberglassing yet. i havent decided if i want to go with some sort of an oil for finish or varnish...what sort of glue/epoxy should i use? will any outdoor wood glue work, should i use something like a titebond III or should i use epoxy?


thanks for the help.
 
03/28/2011 07:05PM  


jdevries, I couldn't help but notice the loon image on your paddle. It looks sort of familiar.

Here's the full length view

 
buffalodick
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03/28/2011 09:00PM  
quote ChazzTheGnome: "So, I am planning on building a stripper next spring and I thought as a nice warm up I would work on a few paddles this spring and summer. I have been looking all over the web for info and for design ideas from the some of the big companies and I have a couple of questions for you guys.

Wood species:
A lot of the wood paddle makers state that they use red and white cedar for their paddles so I went off to my local menards just to check out what they have and their bins just have ‘cedar’ in them. Maybe I need to hit the books a little more but where can I easily and cheaply get some of these different typs of wood? For the first paddle or two I am not worried, I just want to get the design and process down. But when I get a little more confident and want to make a real perdy one I really want some of that color variation. Should I just look for the variations in the boards from menards or is there something else I should be looking at.

Design:
For those of you who have made paddles, what have you used to help with the initial design? I know a few of the things that I am going to want (grip style, length, and blade shap/size) but some of the finer points and just overall look, what do you like? Hoe many laminates do you use in the shaft (5 and 7 seem to be common with the big boys)? Do find it hard to keep the shaft pronounced through the blade, like in a saywer paddle, is it just easier to blend the shaft into the blade, like most others?

Just some thoughts that I had on the way into work this morning. Thanks for all your input in helping me get started on this ‘journey’.


"


Chazz,
Get yourself a copy of "CANOE PADDLES" by Graham Warren and David Gidmark. Read this paper cover book before you even think about buying lumber. There is a lot to learn about paddle making and it would seem to be time well spent to read about all the aspects first; from design to wood selection to oil vs varnish etc. I refer to my copy frequently while while planning anew paddle and while building. I think this would save you a lot of grief.
This is just my 2 cents worth!
Dick
 
ChazzTheGnome
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03/28/2011 09:17PM  
thanks for the input. i will be looking for that book. i love good reference material.
 
HighPlainsDrifter
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03/28/2011 10:39PM  

good post and and inspiration. I suppose I now add a canoe paddle along with caning my own seat to my bucket list :)
 
moosedrool
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03/29/2011 08:55AM  
I currently am using tightbond III for glue, for finishing, i've been staining, and epoxying the outside to seal it. I fiberglass the blade so i just continue the epoxy up the shaft and onto the grip...

Anyway, i agree, skipping the reinforced tip, and fiberglass is a good way to go for your first few.

I'm yet to build a paddle that i truly hated, some i don't use much because i used heavier woods, but they are also my prettiest ones.

There really is nothing like dipping your own paddle that you built into the deep blue waters of the bwca - enjoy...
 
moosedrool
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03/29/2011 08:59AM  
oh, one more note - as i mentioned above, i use basswood, i stain it mainly because since it is such a light wood, i didn't like the yellowing that would occur from the epoxy from fiberglassing the blade. if it were a darker wood, i would skip the stain.
 
buffalodick
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03/29/2011 09:17AM  
quote moosedrool: "I currently am using tightbond III for glue, for finishing, i've been staining, and epoxying the outside to seal it. I fiberglass the blade so i just continue the epoxy up the shaft and onto the grip...


Anyway, i agree, skipping the reinforced tip, and fiberglass is a good way to go for your first few.


I'm yet to build a paddle that i truly hated, some i don't use much because i used heavier woods, but they are also my prettiest ones.


There really is nothing like dipping your own paddle that you built into the deep blue waters of the bwca - enjoy..."


moosedrool,

For the blade tip on my last paddle I used epoxy with Kevlar fiber mixed into the epoxy. I have only about 3/32" thickness on the very end of the blade. I filed the epoxy/kevlar flush with the blade surface and shaped it to follow the curve evenly. The epoxy/kevlar seals the edge from water and prevents fraying of the edge. The paddle has an oil finish. I used the paddle extensively last year in the BWCA and local lakes and the end isn't even scratched and I used it to push away from rocks, etc. I would definitely use this method again. Fiberglass cloth and resin are fine but it adds significantly to the finished weight. My most recent paddle is 60" overall length, the edges are hard rosewood and weighs only 24 ounces and perfectly balanced. I am re-oiling now so will try to take a picture soon and post it.
 
03/29/2011 10:07AM  
Jiiman,

Great minds think alike! I also have my initials on it, but on the other blade.

JD
 
moosedrool
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03/29/2011 04:51PM  
quote buffalodick: "
quote moosedrool: "I currently am using tightbond III for glue, for finishing, i've been staining, and epoxying the outside to seal it. I fiberglass the blade so i just continue the epoxy up the shaft and onto the grip...



Anyway, i agree, skipping the reinforced tip, and fiberglass is a good way to go for your first few.



I'm yet to build a paddle that i truly hated, some i don't use much because i used heavier woods, but they are also my prettiest ones.



There really is nothing like dipping your own paddle that you built into the deep blue waters of the bwca - enjoy..."



moosedrool,


For the blade tip on my last paddle I used epoxy with Kevlar fiber mixed into the epoxy. I have only about 3/32" thickness on the very end of the blade. I filed the epoxy/kevlar flush with the blade surface and shaped it to follow the curve evenly. The epoxy/kevlar seals the edge from water and prevents fraying of the edge. The paddle has an oil finish. I used the paddle extensively last year in the BWCA and local lakes and the end isn't even scratched and I used it to push away from rocks, etc. I would definitely use this method again. Fiberglass cloth and resin are fine but it adds significantly to the finished weight. My most recent paddle is 60" overall length, the edges are hard rosewood and weighs only 24 ounces and perfectly balanced. I am re-oiling now so will try to take a picture soon and post it."


bd, thanks for the info. epoxy and fiberglass may not add as much weight as you think, i've been able to go with much less thickness on the blades. if the photo works, this is my 25 oz 60 in paddle. 7 1/2 degree bend. the tip is the west systems low density filler mixed with epoxy and the blade is fiberglassed. this is mostly basswood with a little cedar mixed in. very well balanced. I'm pretty tough on paddles, and my non-fiberglassed blades take a real beating compared to the others. I tend to plow through the shallows when i should probably take a little more care in paddle placement:-)
 
buffalodick
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03/29/2011 09:10PM  
Very nice looking paddle, Moosedrool!
I really like the way the spine flows into the blade; nice job.
I have also used fiberglass on the lower portion of a couple paddles I bought from Betty Ketter over 20 years ago and they still look good.
Dick
 
moosedrool
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03/30/2011 11:17AM  
thanks bd, this one is my favorite that i have made. very fast, very powerful paddle.

The shape of the blade however demands really good technique for a j-stroke, if you aren't perfect, it tends to get caught up in the water on recovery. my current guess is that it is caused by the narrowing of the blade at the bottom. it feels as if i've cleared the water before i actually have, which causes me to dive back under on the recovery as - i'm guessing - the halfway point of the blade gets sucked under.

Hopefully one of the 4 yet to be carved paddles in my basement will end up being the answer but it still paddles really nice.
 
buffalodick
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03/30/2011 11:53AM  
moosedrool,
I really like working with basswood. I used it in my Merlin as well as a couple of paddles. I bought my wood from a local sawmill and planed my own. The US Forest Service classifies basswood as a hardwood and it does act that way. I was quite surprised at how strong it really is. It makes a very nice canoe building wood and somewhat resembles hard maple when finished natural.
If you hadn't stated so, I don't think I would have recognized the wood in your paddle as basswood.
Dick
 
moosedrool
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03/30/2011 12:48PM  
It is a really neat wood - i agree. very light, very workable/carvable, and very strong.

I get mine from youngblood lumber (mpls) rough cut and also cut down and plane my own.

the paddle in my picture has about the most grain variance i've seen in basswood, it really came out nice, the stain also does quite a number making it difficult to identify.
 
03/31/2011 07:30AM  
If you're going to use your paddle in the BW/Quetico I strongly recommend the epoxy tip protector.
 
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