My thoughts are now turning to my next build. I am going to build the Prospector Ranger 15. I lofted the plans with good success, and have been stepping through the build in my mind.

I bought my strips for my Merlin and thus missed out on the pleasures of cutting my strips (and milling the bead and cove).

On the Ranger, I will cut my own strips. I have clear 5/4 X 6 X 16' cedar that has been planed one edge and side. My first thought was to rip on my table saw. But, maybe not. I have been looking at the builders forum on the Bear Mountain site and it seems that there are quite a few builders who are loyal to the skill saw method (with an attached fence) of cutting.

The skill saw method (walking off strips?) appeals to me especially from 1) space needed and 2) having a strong back (with no mold stations attached) set up as a perfect work surface.

Opinions and tips appreciated as always.

I have done both. First canoe Skilsaw, most recent boat tablesaw. I prefer the tablesaw. Lots of dust made the vacumn system worth it.
CB

We used a skillsaw with an aluminum rail that created a "jig" cutting to the right width.

bcon2011

Do you have a picture of the jig set-up?

Somewhere I saw a picture showing a simple aluminum angle attached to the base of a skill saw (with C-clamps) that made up the cutting jig.

I also saw another (more elaborate) set-up at this link

Jig: cutting strips with skill saw

My worm drive Skil saw has a rip fence you attach. Check your brand and see if they make a fence for it. You can get the Skil rip fence at most Skil dealers, around $10 I think. Bought along time ago.
CB

Seems to me you would get a more uniform thickness with the table saw and you wouldn't have to remount the fence after cutting each strip. But at the same time, manhandling a 16 foot board through a table saw, even with infeed and outfeed roller stands, is tough. Walking a circular saw down that length sounds a bit easier.

JD

You only set the rip fence 1 time(1/4 inch wide) on the Skil saw, no resetting. Fence attachs to the saw, you set the width on the saw.
CB

Buying precut strips from NWC is a bargain when you consider all the other factors involved.

Sorry, have been out of it for awhile.

I don't know if I have a picture, but will look. The description is just like what we used, an angle iron piece held on by C-clamps.

I guess I should note that I had the help of a couple of guys that have built two dozen or so canoes between the two of them, so I just did what they told me. They said skil saw, so that is what we used.

My strips are cut !!!

The "skill saw" with attached 3/4" aluminum angle worked like a champ. Used a Freud Diablo thin kerf 24 tooth framing blade (very sweet cutting). Got 14 strips per board...... 72 are clear and perfect 16 footers and 12 have a few defects.

I will next plane these to 1/4" thick and then bead and cove. (I am following Michne's ideas on the "perfect strip")

Will start a building link for this canoe some time.

Good work. I'm still hoping to get some strips cut before the snow flys.

Glad to hear the cutting went well. I just want to add that the thin strip cutting is where most people get in trouble. I realize that you used a circular saw. Maybe more of a problem on a table saw, but when you get down to 1/4' on the free side and less than 1" on the fence side of the blade, be careful. Also, this is where the table saw guards start to conflict with the fence.

I don't have a cure for the problem. Just don't set the distance of the fence 1/4" from the blade and start ripping strips. Your opening yourself up to problems.

"SKIL" is brand, while skill is what we need.

Actually "Porter Cable" is the brand...... and skill is a life-long project that I am working on.

The hand held circular saw is the poor man's answer to cutting strips of high quality. I was able to cut my stock precisely leaving only a strip about 1/8 thick. I also did not have to worry about constructing an in feed and out feed platform.

I solo cut the first 8-9 strips and then laid down a full plank next to the partial cut plank. This gives a solid base (no rocking) for the saw. I also called for my helper at this point. My wife held the partial cut strip firm to the full plank. Walking off the last strip of the plank was as easy as the first.

Still a lot of work and mess.

Nice job JOE!
SunCatcher

Thanks Paul

My cutting, planing and bead and cove work went very well. 1,314 linear feet of bead and cove strips

Here is my future Chestnut Prospector Ranger 15' (some assembly required)

With the high cost of wood I recommend using a bandsaw. I use woodslicer blades from highland woodworking. Not trying to sell the blades but the kerf is 1/32 about 4 times smaller than a table saw blade. It does ad up I get 1 1/2 inches of free wood or 5 free strips on each 1X6. Plus it is fast, and much less dust.