On September 1st 2010 I worked the first wood of my canoe.
** Strong back was started on August 13.
** Outer hull glass complete on January 31 2011
** Off the molds February 3, 2011
** Inside glassed on February 23, 2011
** All wood working complete and bare wood coated with epoxy April 27, 2011
** Interior completed and weighed in at 41.5 lbs.
** launched June 25, 2011

The boat will be built following the 1985 plans for the Merlin (15.5 feet with no rocker). The current plans from NW Canoe have the Merlin at 16 feet with rocker called the NW Merlin.

Picture shows inner and outer stems on the bending jig. I picked up the idea of using wedges from my class at North House. The wedges make the bending process go fast and smooth. I added c-clamps to fine tune the bend. This stern bend was a very sharp bend. My 1/8" laminates of cedar and ash bent very nice with 25 minutes of steam time.



I will add pictures from time to time. You can look at what I have by following the link

Merlin cedar strip project

Nice! Looking forward to your posts!

Wow! And I thought the bend on my Freedom 17-9 was tight! I was considering the same boat for this winter's project, but decided on a Bob's Special instead to give me the freedom to take out my 4 year old when the babysitters are unavailable. I steamed the stems on the Bob's tonight, and it was a breeze compared to the Freedom.

Update at the end of September. I have the molds on the strong back and faired.

I had a bit of a senior moment getting this thing set up. I was determined to change the plans so that the stem mold(s) butted up (in "T" fashion) to mold stations 1 (bow) and 13 (stern)........ rather than adding 3 and 1/4 inches to the stem end that would hit mold stations 1 or 13, I did the opposite......... result was a shrunken canoe.

I took things apart and made it right. The canoe now sits at 15 feet 6 inches (this is the old no rocker version of the Merlin).... The stem molds away from stations 1 and 13 as the intent of the original boat plans........ I like the Bear Mountain way of building. There is something secure about having a rock solid "T" of the stems and mold stations.

Had I known my error, I would have done things different. I would have changed the stem molds (added the necessary length) and used those stems to bend my stem strips. I would have liked the additional length for laying up the strips.

I did not want to redo my bending, so I will use my stem strips as they were bent.

Looks Great! I have serious canoe builder envy

A Halloween update on my project at 7 planks

Stripping has been slow but steady. I went with a simple accent strip based on the cedar colors that I had in hand.

At plank 7 I have rounded the difficult tumble home portion of the hull. Bead and cove made my job easier on this portion, but I am unsure of how to handle this stuff when I start to close up the hull. I have read that the angles should be cut slightly longer.

If anyone has a helpful hint on close up technique with bead and cove, then please post. I am not there yet, but soon.

The trick to the tumblehome on the Merlin is to use half strips instead of full strips for about 3-4 full strip widths. Half strips are very easy to get to lay down at that point. It takes more time but it makes it so much easier to strip out. Then back to full size and off you go. Looks great so far.
CB

Excellent!

Looks real nice so far.

I finished my wood canvas canoe just this week. A real beauty.

Keep up the fantastic work on your Merlin.

Tom

Hey Tom

Long time no hear. Thanks for the nice comment.

I am planked over the stems and today I ran 2 planks parallel to the keel line. The angles on these planks (where they hit the bow and stern) were a study in patience. I don't like the fit (exactly), but I think I will accept it.

I used bead and cove on the keel-line planks. On one plank, I cut a double bead. The other is standard bead and cove. In this way, I have bead facing the gunnels on both sides. I saw that tip on some building forum and thought it was a good idea. Seemed to work.

Will post some new project pictures soon.

Cheers
Joe

Joe,

Nice job on the Merlin! Can't wait to see a picture of it finished.

I built the longer version (38 Special)of the Merlin a few years ago. It really enjoyed building it and it sure is a dream to paddle. When I built mine I used square edged strips and hand beveled each strip. It was tedious but relaxing at the same time. Took my time and did a good job fitting each strip. The project took one winter in the basement.
I look forward to following your progress.
Keep up the nice work!

Dick

Here she is on December 4, 2010. Progress has been steady but slow. I am in no hurry it is just plank by plank.

Last couple of days drove me to drink ! I cut 4 planks (in a row) short. Fortunately I had a second chance with these short planks as I worked toward the gunnels........

Big stumble was in finding that my molds were not as fair as I thought. The Keel-line was perfect but I found a "wave" in the planks (at 2 stations) as I worked toward the gunnels. My solution was to build out the "low" spot on the mold with tape. So far it looks good to my eye.

Hull closed December 15, 2010. Lots of interesting work lies ahead.... I was getting a bit tired of cutting angles.

Those last few are the hardest. Now for the fun stuff, sanding and shaping, then the glassing and lifting it off the form for the first time. Man I envy you right now!!

JD

HighPlainsDrifter,

A very nice job fitting all those strips. You can be proud of that hull. I look forward to seeing all trimmed out. What woods are you planning on using for the various trim pieces?

Dick

Dick

Good boat wood is hard to find in the boat building desert of Brookings, SD.

I found the chocolate cedar (5/4 X 6 cut, clear, vertical edge grain, 16 foot) at the local "Do It" building center. It was left over from a special shipment. I have been tempted to buy the 6 remaining boards, but I do not want to have flat-grain planks (edge-grain rips into flat grain strips). Anyway, I was lucky with that color find.

I am hoping to find either white ash or Sikta spruce for the gunnels.... I want it full length so that means at least a 16' clear board. I have no idea where I am going to find that.

I have some black walnut that I was thinking of using for small deck plates.

Cherry would make beautiful thwarts. Thinking of buying my seat and that most likely will be the black nylon web on ash style. Basically I will probably go with what I can find in SD and possibly take a drive to the Cities

Let the fairing begin! This feels good....... finally my canoe is starting to look and feel like a canoe.

I was extremely pleased that my external stems fit and glued up nicely. The work in truing up the planks to be at right angles to the keel line was frustrating. I thought for sure that I would have huge gaps........ that was not the case.

2 pictures show the boat on January 7, 2010

Looking Great!

Joe,
Nice Job, I have been following your project. A friend of mine has started his canoe this week. I will be watching his go together.
I have never built one and am very proud of you that do. I may someday. I live in Norfolk, NE. My son and his family are in Sioux Falls. I may buzz up and see you sometime when visiting them, if that is ok?
Anyway, keep up the good work, and thanks for sharing.
SunCatcher

SunCatcher

Come on up! Brookings is only a stone's throw up I-29 from SF.

I don't get many visitors that speak "canoe". It would be great to meet you. I am retired, so I have plenty of flexibility on time :)

Today was another good canoe building day. My bow stem faired out very sweet.

very nice!!

the stems look great. did you use 1/8" laminates?

I'll give ya a holler when I get close.
Should be up in February sometime.
SunCatcher

Bear

Yes, 1/8 laminates. Scroll up to my first posts. There is a link to my build photos. You can see the stair step of the laminates on my bending jig.

This is my first attempt at boat building...... steaming and bending too. I knew what I wanted, but really had no idea what thickness of wood would bend w/o breaking....... so, I decided to go thin, steam hell out of it, and work fast.

My wife helped with the steaming and gluing. You will see that I used wedges on my molds to help with the bending and gluing. Wedges get the job done fast. The clamps just fine tune the job

My God that is beautiful.

You will certainly have an heirloom conoe when it's done. Very, very nice job.

Tom

Tom

I appreciate the comment. Thank you

Remember, it was the short paddle that I took with your Merlin that brought me over to the mystical world of the Merlin.

There is something about the lines of her that capture my heart. Fairing seems to be a process of revealing beauty that has been there all the time :)

Joe

I have finished fiberglassing (I think) the outside. These pictures show the hull after initial wet-up and 2 fill coats using SYSTEMS III Silver Tip Laminating Epoxy.

This was my first "solo" on fiberglassing a boat. My son helped spread and my wife mixed........ I was apprehensive, but we got the glass down without a wrinkle or bubble. Fiberglassing was not my favorite job. I do not like the pressure of working in "EPOXY TIME"

Basically I followed the techniques in Moores book except we used 3" chip brushes to apply epoxy. The third coat was all brush.

I do not have a mirror finish, but I do have a finish that will allow sanding without cutting into glass. Eventually the hull will be varnished. I think the epoxy sanding will be done outside in spring (if spring ever comes this year).

I think it is time to take it off the molds and face the inside clean-up :(

Really looks nice, great job.

Looking good there HPD. This is always my favorite part of building. You get to see the canoes "true colors" for the first time.
CB

Very nice

Looks great............

Well she is off the molds and right side up. A bit of work remains, but she looks sweet to me.

I been looking at her bottom for so long....... feels real good to see her right-side-up. I almost hated to take my strong back apart..... it has been a part of this boat, and now it has been set aside (maybe to wait on another boat?)

Great job, if you not quite happy with the first one. I could put in my apartment. Someplace!!!!

Looking very nice!!

Of all the canoes I built over the years, taking the canoe off the forms was still a highlight for me. Everything changes when you get to see the inside. And finally, you get to see the whole canoe.

Use a piece of strap or a wood brace to keep the canoe to the proper width so it doesn't open up or curl in too much. This can also be done by where the canoe is placed in the cradles.

One other thing to consider. Your canoe will absorb or lose moisture as the humidity levels change. I have seen canoes curl up and lose their shape when going from a damp environment to a very dry environment. This does not happen rapidly, though. Any possibility of this happening can be eliminated by glassing the inside as soon as you can. I don't mean today or this weekend, just don't wait a month. Once the inside is glassed, the wood is stabilized forever.

Tom

Tom

Thanks for the tip. Also read the suggestion about room temperature in the post by jdevries about gas.

I guess if you could control room temperature that would be the thing to do. I tried that on wet-up day. Figured all was well as the temperature did drop........ and continued to drop during the night to 56...... Systems III slow epoxy should not be applied at temperatures below 55. I am not sure if temperature fluctuations hurt the set up...... BUT

I am about to tear that thermostat off the wall. The thing must be possessed by demons and pretty much does what it wants to do

quote HighPlainsDrifter: "
Well she is off the molds and right side up. A bit of work remains, but she looks sweet to me.


I been looking at her bottom for so long....... feels real good to see her right-side-up. I almost hated to take my strong back apart..... it has been a part of this boat, and now it has been set aside (maybe to wait on another boat?)


"

I found that taking my Prospector off the molds was probably the most exciting part of the build.
Nice job!

Having the temp drop to 56 during the night will not effect the final strength of the epoxy, it just slows down the cure rate. Epoxy will continue to cure for weeks after it is on the boat. You just can't tell that it's happening.

You certainly wouldn't want to glass the canoe while the temp is that low. The epoxy would be far too thick to use. 70' or 75' is ideal for application. Runny epoxy is especially helpful when doing the inside. It will help to keep the glass from sliding around when you are brushing it on.

tom

Well here I am on Feb 24. The inside glassing is behind me and I am looking forward to trimming her out.

Ash on the gunnels...... now I need to find it
Black walnut for scupper block spacers
Black walnut for deck plates
Cherry for thwarts
Ash for seat...... I will buy a cheap one for starts but will end up making one

I am glad that inside work is behind me. Everything from fairing to glassing was a royal pain in my back (literally). The fiberglass work went exceptionally good....... I used 4 strips on the inside. Two 60" pieces in the center and two smaller pieces for the bow and stern. I suppose I made myself a lot of work doing it this way, but I was comfortable with it

Nice,nice job HPD. Capped(Bell style) or skuppered(slots) gunwales? I have done both over the years. I'm in the capped "phase" now. Capped are easier to put on but skuppered gives you tie off points and water drains easier.
CB

Very Nice HPD!!

Starting to get closer to Spring.............

SunCatcher

Looks great!

However, your shop is far too clean:)

HighPlainsDrifter,

That's a mighty fine inside glassing job! I know you were sweating that job and I bet you are glad that is behind you now.

Dick

Thanks for compliments

Dick, yes I was sweating the inside glass. My son helped apply and my wife mixed. At about 20 minutes into the brush work, I picked up the squeegee and followed my son. I wanted an even coat that showed weave texture. In some spots, I got what I wanted. Glad I picked up the squeegee early in the game. It would have got ahead of me.

I will probably do another canoe, and if that time comes, I will probably do the inside in sections again. The seams ain't that bad.

MWD
The picture was taken on a clean shop day :) ....... today it ain't neat at all.

I know spring is coming. It would be nice to get this boat on the water this year. I think I need to burn some midnight oil in the shop instead of sitting in front of this screen :(

The end of the tunnel is in sight. On April 27, I completed all wood trim and gave bare wood of the gunwales and decks a coat of epoxy.

I will be using Z-SPAR Flagship varnish. I am planning on doing the inside first starting with a quick hand sanding with 120-grit paper.

I used both screws and thickened epoxy to set the gunwales. My screws are Frearson head silicon bronze (with an ample coating of Akempucky). I am using silicon bronze (10-24) carriage bolts to hang my thwarts, carry handles and seat. I will show a picture of the interior after a couple coats of varnish.

Thanks for your interest and helpful comments during this build. I know I will do another, it is just a question of what hull. I sure like the classic looks of the Kootenai solo

Looks great HPD, you should have it on the water in no time.
Your shop will look and feel empty without a canoe in it, I know mine does.

looks good! i get that orange peel look also, is there anything to get that perfect glass look?

HPD,

I have been following you and this canoe for awhile now, I can't help but imagine that these darn things become an extension of you, for as much work that goes into the darn things!

It is a beautiful canoe!

SunCatcher

Today I completed the interior. I felt like a proud new father looking at his first baby. I think I wore a smile all day. The canoe is coming together as I had it in my mind ;)

SunCatcher you said it nicely. This canoe has become an extension of me.

At this point she weighs in at 41.5 pounds. All components were first given a coat of epoxy and then 3 coats of varnish. Interior hull has 3 coats of varnish also........ now on to the exterior.

Beautiful! Great job with the weight. Mine weighs in right at 50lbs. I think you saved over mine in the gunnels, decks, and I have a pretty big set of portage pads on my yoke. What weight cloth did you use?

JD

Nice!

Absolutely beautiful work, Joe!
Did you build your own seat? I like the the curved look.

Dick

Answers:
I used 6 oz cloth on interior and exterior

The curved seat came from Edscanoe. I wanted black walnut in a contour seat (color to match my wood work). I asked, and they said no problem. Good company. Nice work on the seat too.

I fashioned all the rest of the wood work....... but, true confession, I copied the shape of the thwarts, carry handle, and seat hanger from my Bell Northwind.

I do have the exterior hull to varnish. That will add a bit of weight. Also, I did not weigh it with my portage yoke.... so a bit more there.

Congrats on the canoe. Marvelous!!

My Merlin and I will be doing 9 days in Quetico soon. I am part of her and she is part of me. I know you know what I mean.

tom

Thanks Tom

Hope you and your Merlin have a good one. My hope is for a solo this fall with mine.

Right now I am working on getting the exterior varnished. I had good luck knocking down the orange peel epoxy without hitting the weave. So, I started with a nice flat surface.

I am frustrated with putting down varnish....... It seems that I have crappy lighting. Wish I knew a trick on lighting...... that would help 100%.

On the second coat I managed 2 nice run/sags (that I did not see until it was too late #@&&&!!!^%)#). They are now gone. Ready for coat 3 on Thursday.

Got a name for her yet?

JD

Joe,
A trick I use when varnishing to minimize runs and ensure even coverage is to hold a trouble light in my left hand while I work with my right hand. I move the light over the area being worked on as well as under and to the side to view the surface from as many angles as possible to see what is happening. It seems that area lighting alone is inadequate.
Dick

JD
No name. I have never named my canoes. The Merlin will be called Merlin, and that is fitting in that Merlin is a legendary figure best known as the wizard.

Dick
The trouble light is a good idea. I need to find my ancient incandescent trouble light. Today I used my halogen work lights...... all of a sudden I got to wondering why my varnish was setting so quick..... duh. Those lights get crazy hot. I turned them off.

Coat 3 was my best so far. No runs/sags. No skips. But, I am still fighting dust nibs

Even the most skilled varnish craftsman will have an occasional run. You just can't avoid them. The only advice I can offer is to apply thin coats. Thin coats. Thin coats.

As far as dust goes, we all have some dust specs but a super clean shop and dust free rags to wipe down the canoe prior to varnishing is your best bet.

I have four cats and let me tell you, every canoe I have has at least one cat hair in the varnish. It's my makers mark :)

Hi Tumblehome
It appears that you are a new member? Welcome aboard and thank you for making your first post (with good comments) on my project canoe. I have a dog and one of her black hairs is imbedded in the interior epoxy ;)

Dam that is a sweet ride!

quote HighPlainsDrifter: "
Hi Tumblehome
It appears that you are a new member? Welcome aboard and thank you for making your first post (with good comments) on my project canoe. I have a dog and one of her black hairs is imbedded in the interior epoxy ;)"

Not to worry. All of my projects have a hair and right thumb print strategically placed somewhere. I always figured that if something was stolen and needed to be identified, it would be indisputable evidence. I even go as far as burning my name under the bow deck of my boats.

HPD,
Nice to meet you and Connie Saturday! Thanks for the tour of the shop and visiting about the "MERLIN" All I can say is that is one sweet boat, and you have a lot to be proud of. GREAT JOB.
I will stop again when up that way.
P.S. Thanks for the BUD also.
P.S.S. Also give some thought about that trip I talked about?


Take Care,

SunCatcher

June 25, 2011......... She Floats !!!!

With family present and a ceremonial bottle of Bud poured over her bow, I launched my Merlin.

The boat tracks !!! With no rocker, she don't turn fast, but I knew that coming in. I wanted the tracking, so passed on the rocker. I had about 80 lbs. of ballast in the canoe (dry bags filled with water).

To get to know her, I need to get paddling time in :)

Congratulations HPD! She's a beauty!

I am sitting at work, in the dark, speechless. I hope nobody calls 911 in the next couple minutes.

OMG...You did it!!! It's like taking a "Beautiful virgin" out for her first prom! Something you will never forget for sure! :)
Congratulation's!!

SunCatcher

Thanks for the comments, guys

Paul, sure I did it. Did you think it would never leave the shop?

I could not get the smile erased from my face all after noon. Later that night, we ate pizza and drank a few Bud long necks to toast the occasion....... that made me smile more

The wood boats have cast a spell on me. I like to paddle, but I also have enjoyed the challenge of building........ so, guess I will build another:)

simply beautiful!

I just finished stripping up and planing the exact same model. I'm anxious to see some early open water!

Its funny to see how different this version of the Merlin is from the Merlin II. When you get them side x side it looks more like a Magic than a Merlin II.