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HighPlainsDrifter
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03/02/2011 08:47PM  

Sort of an opinion poll

Is it potato or patato, gunwale or gunnel? That is not my real question........ the opinion I am looking for is to screw or not to screw.

Big selling point for screws........ it is easier to replace a gunwale if screwed on. But, I think if I have to replace a gunnel, it will be a bit more serious repair than just the upper edge of the canoe.

I am leaning toward thickened epoxy glue. What way did you go?
 
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Cedarboy
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03/02/2011 09:09PM  
I always screw my gunwales on. Cant imagine how hard it would be to replace a damaged gunwale that had been epoxied or glued on. I have replaced my screwed on gunwales before and those get "stuck" on from the spar urathane on the hull and the oil finsh from the gunwale.
I think if you epoxie /glue you are setting yourself up for heartache
CB
 
bear bait
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03/02/2011 09:26PM  
built 3 canoes and glued them all.
not sure what could damage the gunnels so bad they need to be replaced
yet keep the canoe floatable. (like you said)

my first canoes gunnels got all scratched up and some water damaged happened. i sanded them down completely and revarnished and they now look new.
 
HighPlainsDrifter
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03/02/2011 09:52PM  

ok...... score so far is:

Screw: 1
Epoxy: 1

I think this will turn out as I expected. But I do like to read the pros and cons
 
03/03/2011 06:31AM  
Well I have only replaced them on my MR Slipper and I went with the original screw style. But spaced them 7" apart to help make measuring fish easier.
 
buffalodick
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03/03/2011 09:41AM  
quote HighPlainsDrifter: "
Sort of an opinion poll

Is it potato or patato, gunwale or gunnel? That is not my real question........ the opinion I am looking for is to screw or not to screw.

Big selling point for screws........ it is easier to replace a gunwale if screwed on. But, I think if I have to replace a gunnel, it will be a bit more serious repair than just the upper edge of the canoe.

I am leaning toward thickened epoxy glue. What way did you go?"


Joe,

The main reason I chose to epoxy directly to the sides of the finished hull is because I did not want to penetrate the hull with screws. I figured that by drilling holes through the hull I would be exposing the wood core to potential water seepage and decay. No mater how well sealed with varnish there will still be the possibility of water getting into the unsealed joint between the gunwale and the side of the hull providing a path to the wood core. Once the water is there it will remain and do it's damage.
I can't imagine ever having to replace the gunwales as mine have stood up well for the last 7 or 8 years. If I ever do need to replace them I could easily saw away most of the wood and sand the remaining gunwale wood down flush with the hull without going through the glass cloth. As I said mine are still like new so I don't ever anticipate replacing them.
I believe that some kevlar canoe gunwales may fail due to the cap style gunwale used which is not finished inside the groove before assembly with through hull screws allowing water to get underneath.

Dick
 
RAFA Ranger
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03/03/2011 12:02PM  
Put me down for screw.

I read a bunch about both, but in the end I was just more comfortable working with a drill and screws than epoxy.
 
HighPlainsDrifter
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03/03/2011 08:35PM  
screw: 3
epoxy: 2

Started cutting my ash gunnel stock today. I had some 15/16 #1 common. On ripping, I found why it was common....... anyway, it made great kindling for my wood stove tonight.

Tomorrow I am off to pick up some lengths of select white ash. I will have to scarf to get the length I want. On a positive note, I made one sweet scarf jig (1:8) for my table saw. Works good
 
sleepnbag
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03/03/2011 09:30PM  
I'll let you guess.

 
HighPlainsDrifter
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03/03/2011 10:26PM  
nice
and tied up 3 all
 
mwd1976
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03/04/2011 10:51AM  
One more for screws...just to break the tie:)

Mostly for the reasons Cedarboy listed. Someday the gunnels will need to be replaced, and I'll be happy I used screws on that day.
 
03/04/2011 04:50PM  
Both.
 
03/06/2011 08:15PM  
I vote for both as well. I like epoxy, but think about what is holding the inside and outside gunwales together...a 1/4" strip of cedar with fiberglass on either side of it. What happens if the fiberglass separates from the cedar? What happens if the cedar cracks?

I epoxy the the gunwales on, and add screws at the seat hangers, thwart, and yoke.
 
HighPlainsDrifter
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03/06/2011 09:25PM  

Screws (no epoxy) take the lead with 4
Epoxy (no screws): 3
Screws and epoxy: 2

Question for the screw users: what kind ?
 
03/06/2011 10:49PM  
quote HighPlainsDrifter: "
Screws (no epoxy) take the lead with 4
Epoxy (no screws): 3
Screws and epoxy: 2


Question for the screw users: what kind ? "


For anything under a gunwale I use stainless. For anything exposed I use bronze.
 
03/07/2011 12:08AM  
Stainless with those decorative washers.
 
03/18/2011 09:52AM  
Another vote for Both

As for the type of screws, I used Stainless steel counter sunk and covered with a plug.
 
HighPlainsDrifter
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03/19/2011 08:51PM  

And the poll shows:

Screws (no epoxy) still in the lead with 4
Epoxy (no screws): 3
Screws and epoxy: 3

Had a successful day dry fitting my inwales and soon I will add one more vote for screws and epoxy.

 
03/19/2011 11:12PM  
quote HighPlainsDrifter: "
And the poll shows:


Screws (no epoxy) still in the lead with 4
Epoxy (no screws): 3
Screws and epoxy: 3


Had a successful day dry fitting my inwales and soon I will add one more vote for screws and epoxy.


"


Will that be your vote? FYI, you don't get a vote until the boat survives the BWCA! LOL!
 
bcon2011
member (32)member
  
10/13/2011 05:12PM  
Both on ours.
 
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