BWCA Entry Point, Route, and Trip Report Blog
July 12 2025
Entry Point 25 - Moose Lake
Number of Permits per Day: 27
Elevation: 1356 feet
Latitude: 47.9877
Longitude: -91.4997
Labor day weekend 2024.
Entry point was 25-Moose lake. Went north, and then west onto Ensign Lake. Camped on eastern end of Ensign lake. Very busy and lucky to get a campsite. Day 2, went to Cattyman Falls and on down to Disappointment Lake. All sites full. Had to get off the water due to inclement storm. Ended up on Parent Lake on day 3, western camp site. Beautiful site. Exited from Snowbank lake on day 4. Overall fishing was poor. Some small mouth bass on Parent lake.
Nothing elsewhere. Approximately 20 miles of paddling/portaging. 11 portages in total. Already planning for 2025.
Nice Little Trip With The Guys--Entry At Snowbank
Entry Date:
September 06, 2015
Entry Point:
Snowbank Lake
Number of Days:
5
Group Size:
4
We all met at my house the morning of departure to load Craig's van with our gear, the groceries we had made an event out of buying a day or two before and two canoes--Craig's Old Town and my Alumacraft. We were confident that with the foam pads and rope we had we could figure out a way to secure two canoes onto one vehicle sufficiently for a four-hour road trip. After much discussion and some trial and error, we thought we had it. After a few miles down the road it was obvious that our tie-down plan was not good enough so we turned around and went to Erik's house to see if we'd do any better with his Suburban. Again after a good deal of discussion we thought we had a better plan with Erik's vehicle but, again, after a brief trip down the road we watched the canoes move around enough that we thought it best to return to Erik's house and work on plan "C". We decided that what we'd spend on renting a canoe wouldn't be much more than gas for a second vehicle so we left Craig's canoe at home in favor of carrying just one on a vehicle AND all sharing the ride to enjoy the whole trip together. Finally, we were on the road from St. Cloud about 1-1/2 hours later than planned. The rest of our drive was uneventful and we arrived in Ely in the early evening.
After checking in at Canoe Country Outfitters, we got settled in to our accommodations for the night--the house that they have out their back door that fronts East Camp Street. I highly recommend this option! The rooms are spacious, the beds are comfortable, there's a fridge, air conditioning, microwave, TV, private bath AND a relaxing porch to hang out on for some great pre-trip bonding.
After getting settled, our traditional pre-trip pizza at Sir G's and picking up last minute supplies was next on the agenda. After accomplishing this, we returned to the porch for a couple of beers before turning in for the night and attempting sleep through some big excitement for the next day and some significant thunderstorms.
After we each got in our final shower for a few days, we walked down to Brittons Cafe for a very filling breakfast. On our walk back to CCO, we stopped at The Great Outdoors for leeches. I introduced myself to TGO and remembering his comments on bwca.com regarding smallmouth bass, casually mentioned to him that we were going to target some smallies. You took the bait, TGO, and your entertaining response did not disappoint!
After a pleasant drive down the Fernberg road, noting from the standing water and sticks on the roadway that the previous night's storms had been rather intense, we arrived at the Snowbank landing and were off. Light breezes this morning made our crossing of Snowbank a piece of cake. We took the portage from Snowbank direct to Disappointment and while it does have just a bit of length (our longest this trip) that was pretty easy too. The water remained rather flat as we made our way up Disappointment. As best we could tell, all campsites on Disappointment were occupied from the night before. We got reports from those campers, and others on the lake, that the storm was indeed a nasty one and we noticed a number of freshly downed and snapped trees. Our timing for departure on this trip was lucky!
Our target for the day was Jordan Lake and after winding our way through the several small lakes that follow Disappointment, we found ourselves at Jordan just as we were really getting hungry for lunch. We could see that the northern-most campsite was already taken so we headed toward the next site south. It was open and it was a keeper! This site has a great landing area on it's north end and a short walk up hill from there provides a beautiful vista from the firegrate/tent-pad area out over Jordan Lake. After an awesome ham-sandwich lunch and setting up the tents and other gear, we explored the rest of the site before taking a refreshing swim to wash off the sweat from that day's work and high heat. The rest of the day was occupied by just hanging out, swapping stories and wetting a line or two from shore (no luck). As the sun set we started on our fresh-steak supper and enjoyed that under a tarp to avoid the brief showers that fell. A bug-free September evening meant that we were able to hang out by the campfire well into the night before retiring to the tent and catching our Z's sans-sleeping bags due to the unseasonably warm temperatures.
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[paragraph break]As we get near to the island, the man is rapidly alerting us that he and his crew has flipped their canoe. Admittedly, we figured they had just flipped the canoe and we'd probably have to go retrieve it from across the lake. It was when he says that it happened last night when our ears perked up. He tells us him and his two buddies flipped the canoe the night before, that one guy didn't make it back to their site and is currently across the lake, and one is still missing. Our stomachs drop. Missing? The situation just became dire. Now I know it's opening week, but I was dumbfounded that a popular lake like this has seen no travelers since last night. A guy in our group has taken the lead on communicating with this man and starts asking a million questions, where are you from, how did you flip the canoe, where is your buddy across the lake, have you been out here before - those sort of questions. He points across the lake and shouts to his friend, who we could then hear and maybe somewhat see. Since we had a 3 person canoe, we dropped off my friend in the middle seat to stay with the island site guy. Dan and I race across the lake to pick up the guy who had washed up across the lake and spent the night in the woods. As we near the shore where he is standing, we can see he has nothing but shorts, a tshirt, and lifejacket on. No shoes, no supplies. He is visibly sun burnt badly. He is shouting things to us like "You're angels sent from heaven. You've saved my life." He was clearly excited and looked to be in shock of sorts. We safely pick him up from the rocky shore he had washed up to and provide him water and a granola bar. As we head back towards the island we ask him a bunch of questions to get more of the story. He is very appreciative. He thought he was going to die. Here's the quick summary of the info we obtained.
[paragraph break]They were fishing from shore around 6pm on Tuesday evening. One of them got a snag on their fishing line and they decided to hop in the canoe to undo the snag and to continue to fish a bit from the canoe. The guy we just picked up in the canoe believes the man who is still missing may have had caught a fish, which caused a jerk and thus flipped the canoe. He said they initially didn't take it very serious and thought they could flip it back over quickly. They attempted several times, but each time the canoe would fill with water and was too heavy to flip back. It was very windy that night. He thinks they may have tried this for around 15-30 mins. The water was probably in in the mid 40s, very cold. They then tried their best to swim back to their island site, which was straight into a strong head wind. He said it was nearly impossible to swim into the wind, considering their limbs were numb. At this point, he said they all realized the severity of the situation and things became quiet and they started to separate. The guy we first came into contact with miraculously made it back to the island site. He said it was pure adrenaline that pushed him through and he kept thinking of his family. He needed to see them again. He was real big and strong too. The guy who didn't make it back to the island said he realized the wind and waves were too much and he quit trying to swim and let the waves take him across the lake. He said he couldn't feel his limbs anymore. He estimated he was in the water for an hour. They believe the guy who was missing started drifting straight west of the island towards shore. But as soon as they all made it to land, they did not hear from him when they were shouting his name. Island site guy said he was purple by the time he made it to land, shed his clothes, and wrapped himself up and laid out on the rocks to warm and dry. The guy on the shore similarly tried to warm himself but had no dry clothes to change into, no food to warm his belly. He climbed up the rocky shore and spent the night in the woods. He used his shirt to cover his legs for warmth. He said he managed to sleep, but I cannot imagine for very long. They both woke around 5am to begin shouting at each other again. Still no sign from their missing friend. The guy who washed to shore let us know he planned to attempt to swim back to the island at 1pm on Wednesday. We arrived around 11:30am. Knowing the water temperature, I'm not sure he would have made it.
[paragraph break]By the time we brought him back to the island site to join his friend, it was around Noon. All of our minds were racing on what to do next. It was determined that my group of three would head back to Tuscarora Lodge and alert their team of the situation and start a search and rescue. We let the guys know we may not see them again, but assured them that we were going to do this as quick as we can. We exchanged names, numbers, shook hands, and they gave us their gratitude. We were just happy they were alive after knowing all the details. And hoped someone would do the same for us. As we left, those two were hugging. I think of that image now. What a moment for those two.
[paragraph break]We set back out and aimed for the portage, the long humbling portage. It had occurred to me that the man we met on the first portage of the day mentioned his plan was to stay on Missing Link. Since he was a solo paddler, we thought he just might have a Satellite Phone. We hoped. We dropped our gear off at the Tuscarora side of the portage, to lighten the load and make for a quicker trip. Our plan was to eventually come back and most likely stay on Tusc. We did the portage in sections again. We were beat. As we completed the portage, it was a lovely sight to see the site on Missing Link to be occupied by the man mentioned above. We pull up near and shout to him the situation we were in. I think it helped that he already knew us. I'm sure folks can be a bit freaked out if you're asking to get out on their site. Thankfully he let us know he just got a satellite phone! He said he can send text messages out. We're brainstorming who we should alert. We think one of our moms? No, they would freak out. So I decide we would text my brother thinking he would handle the situation swiftly. We send the text around 1:45pm and sure enough, he responds almost immediately - although he says "Sorry, but I think you have the wrong number". I quickly respond saying it's me, provided him all the details, and instructed him to call Tuscarora Lodge with this info, they'll know what to do. He simply responds "Will do.". We are relieved that he responded so quickly and that we wont have to paddle all the way back to the lodge. We thank the man for letting us use him phone and set back out on the long portage towards Tuscarora. We are almost to the lake when we hear the Beaver plane overhead, not more than 30 mins after the text. This gives us an extreme high, knowing that the plan worked out and that search and rescue is this efficient (we later learn, the pilot was already in the air, doing firewatch rounds on the eastern Gunflint side and that it's not usually this quick). Still, it was very impressive.
[paragraph break]We dash over the the southern site tucked behind the island and decide this will be our home for the night. As the afternoon continues we see the search and rescue canoe team (three 3 person canoes) enter the lake to come get the guys on the island and retrieve the missing canoe. Before the canoes take back off, the Beaver plane takes off. The canoes leave and we see the two guys leave with the S&R team. Although we don't know the fate of the missing man, we know he is not in those canoes. We learned from the other two that the man missing is the most athletic of the three and the one with the most survival skills. This gives us hope he may still be out there. The night passes by, and amazingly we are still the only ones on the lake that day.
[paragraph break]We spend the night doing mostly what we would normally do, but we're all clearly affected by what had just happened. We could not stop talking, thinking, theorizing about it. It affected our moods and appetites but we made the most of it. This site is not as nice as I was thinking it would be based on reviews. There is a nice sandy landing, but the site is well protected and thus very buggy. We made a plan to slowly break camp in the morning and head north to check out one of those sites for the remainder of the trip. Overall we had done 1,200 rods of portaging that day. Time for rest.
[paragraph break]Below is a recording of our first day using my AllTrails app. I took a screen shot of this on the second night, so you'll notice the blue dot was my current location at time of screen shot - not the location of night one.
It was an awesome morning sharing a pancake breakfast and just kicking back enjoying some camp camaraderie. We had planned to start back towards our exit (same as the entry) today but by the time we packed up and were on our way it was late morning and the southwest breezes were picking up. After we left Jordan, a side-trip to view the falls between Cattyman and Gibson Lakes put us still later into the day before we turned south and the wind had picked up a bit more. By the time we got to Jitterbug and Ahsub there was some significant chop, even though these are pretty small lakes. When we got back to Disappointment we could see that this was going to be work. And work it was, but not impossible. We dug in as needed to keep moving forward and quartered the bow as needed to keep from catching any waves broadside. We aimed for a campsite about a mile from the portage on the northeast section of the lake and by the time we got there it was time for a break. The rocks on the shore and the waves made landing a bit tricky but we navigated the canoes to safe ground and checked out this site as a possible home for the night. While we thought it would do OK, we decided to check out the nearby island site as well. By now the waves were big enough that we were going to get a little wet but the site was not far away and our direction would take us straight into the wind--no quartering needed. When we landed at this site it did not show much for shade and the best tent pad looked quite small. I then noticed that the pad actually wasn't that small but that it was half-covered with a freshly-fallen tree. I remembered that when we came in through Disappointment the morning after the storm, this site was occupied and I wondered how those campers fared if they had their tent on this pad and if the tree had fallen on them! Given the conditions of this site, we opted to go back to the first one.
The front of THIS site was pretty open to the lake which made for nice views but also meant we caught the full wind. Setting the tent up was quite the adventure. The site did have some great sunning rocks so once we got the tent up and fed ourselves, we all caught a snooze in the sun. The wind continued all afternoon and into the evening so there wasn't much to do but sit around. It really wasn't even possible to fish from shore since you could not get a decent cast out without it being blown back at you or having your lure drift away from the desired spot in no time. This meant we were going to have to eat the freeze-dried stuff we had brought along as back up. This actually wasn't too bad--Mountain House beef stroganoff and sweet/sour chicken. I had eaten some Mountain House meals before and did not remember them being as tasty. We did find ways to entertain ourselves by hiding items from each other's gear and even making different shadow puppets near sunset on the sun-lit screen provided by the side of the tent!
The wind today made things, at times, less than fun. But each time I am challenged by the BWCA, I am amply rewarded for accepting and dealing with those challenges. As darkness fell the wind finally subsided and we were again able to enjoy a nice evening fire. Then we noticed a faint light on the horizon that soon grew to one of the most spectacular displays of Northern Lights that I have ever seen. This show of the Aurora Borealis was a first for Scott and probably one of the best ever for the rest of us. We sat out on the rocks watching the show for hours and all thought, "Wow! What a way to spend our last night of the trip."
Once again, the coolness of the evening provided for a comfortable night's sleep once we all turned in.
As we crossed Disappointment, the breeze was not bad with only a slight chop. It had picked up a bit by the time we got to the portages at the southwest end of the lake. Therefore, to avoid Snowbank's notorious waves and so we could see some new scenery, we chose to head out through Parent Lake. This would also break up the long portage into two shorter carries. When we got to Parent, the size of the waves convinced us that we had made a wise decision. These waves were not too bad but we imagined that out on Snowbank they might be rather difficult.
On our final portage we had the privilege of meeting and exchanging pleasantries with this delightful couple who were out on their first day of a one-week trip. They had traveled all the way from New Zealand just to experience Minnesota's BWCA! They were quite excited for the adventure that lay ahead of them and were eager for advice regarding the area from which we had just come and for which they were headed. We gladly shared what information we could and wished them well.
The waves on Snowbank turned out to be no challenge after all and we had a pleasant paddle to the public landing, pulling in at about noon. After loading up we headed back to Ely for a much anticipated shower. On the way into town I remember thinking about how good the seats of a vehicle always feel after a canoe trip. After getting cleaned up our final stop in Ely was for a delicious meal at the Ely Steakhouse before hitting the road and arriving home again in St. Cloud that evening, eager to do it all again next year.