Boundary Waters Trip Reports, Blog, BWCA, BWCAW, Quetico Park

BWCA Entry Point, Route, and Trip Report Blog

July 26 2024

Entry Point 23 - Mudro Lake

Mudro Lake entry point allows overnight paddle only. This entry point is supported by Kawishiwi Ranger Station near the city of Ely, MN. The distance from ranger station to entry point is 19 miles. Three accesses into Mudro Lake involve portages ranging from 20–185 rods.Easiest access is from private la nd with parking fee.

Number of Permits per Day: 5
Elevation: 1166 feet
Latitude: 48.0356
Longitude: -91.8301
On the Water- Monday July 20th-
On the water late considering how far we need to go today. Up the Horse river to the falls by 6pm. Started raining and NO campsites available. Mudrow-Alruss-Tin can Mike-Horse Lake-Horse River-Basswood. 13 miles by water. (not counting portages)

Tuesday July 21st-
Rain all night, all morning and all day. Went north by petroglyphs, table rock and the the Crocked Lake Narrows across Thursday bay to campsite. Basswood-Crooked Lake-Wednesday Bay-Thursday Bay. 11 miles in the rain.

Wednesday July 22nd-
Up early and calm winds to take advantage of, considering the big water we have to cross. Found beaver dam to lift over and did a portage from hell between Pandos lake and Chippewa Lake. VERY steep and slippery after rain. Many mud holes. Then the mile portage after Wagosh Lake to Gun Lake. Never saw another soul in a canoe or campsite the entire day! Thursday bay-Friday Bay-Pandos Lake-Chippewa Lake-Wagosh lake-Gun Lake. 11 miles by water.

Thursday July 23rd-
Finally had a dry night. got everything dry!!! A few portages today to Fourtown Lake campsite. Easy day by comparison. Gun Lake-Fairy Lake-Boot Lake-Fourtown Lake. 6 miles. Put the long miles at the first of the week for a buffer for contingencies!

Friday July 24th-
Last day. Stormed last night bad. A few portages today with one bad one between Fourtown Lake and Mudrow lake. To entry point by 1pm. Ready for a hot shower! 4 miles

Total-
45 miles by water
13 miles by portage (3 trips each)
58 miles total.

Crab/Cummings with Rookies

by Ho Ho
Trip Report

Entry Date: July 23, 2010
Entry Point: Crab Lake and Cummings from Burntside Lake
Number of Days: 4
Group Size: 4

Trip Introduction:
This trip was a four-day adventure into the Boundary Waters with two rookies, Michael and Josiah. Michael is the 19-year-old son of an old college friend of mine whom I had recently gotten back in touch with. She, her husband, and Mike were coming out for a week at the cabin, and Mike wanted to try a wilderness canoe trip while his parents held down the fort with cocktails back at the cabin. We had never met Michael but I was pretty sure he would be a fun guy to take out on a trip, which definitely proved to be true. To round out our crew, we invited Josiah, the 15-year-old son of different friends, to come out with us too. He had been to the cabin for a few days with his family a couple years ago, and had been angling for another visit and canoe trip. David and I have both known Josiah since he was born and we knew he would be fun to have along. Mike has always lived in Boston, and Josiah has pretty much always lived in New York City, so the Boundary Waters was going to be a new experience for these city boys, who had never been on a wilderness trip (much less a wilderness canoe trip) before. And so after a few days at the cabin getting our gear together, practicing some basic canoe strokes, and just hanging out with Mike's parents, the fateful morning for the beginning of our adventure arrived . . .

Day 3 of 4


Day 3 (July 25, 2010) -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/Day-3.jpg[/img]

We got up earlier today than yesterday (which would not be hard). David and I had coffee, and at a very reasonable hour Mike crawled out of the tent as well. I asked whether the mosquito situation was better than the night before. Yes, the lesson had been learned, Josiah and Mike went on a search and destroy mission right after they got in the tent and slept soundly after that.

Since we were going to travel today, we also rousted Josiah out of bed at a reasonable time. Breakfast today was bacon and oatmeal. The oatmeal did not receive the same warm welcome from the youngsters as yesterday's pancakes. Good thing we planned pancakes for tomorrow.

We broke camp and went for a dip before launching, since the day was already warm. Then we headed east back across Cummings to take the alternative route into the Korb River, instead of portaging directly into Korb Lake. In stark contrast to when we paddled in two days before, the campsites we passed in the eastern part of Cummings were empty now. Today was Sunday, so maybe the weeklong base campers had headed out in between. Or maybe it was just randomness that made it full one day and empty the next.

It wasn't long before we arrived at the 30-rod portage from Cummings to the river -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1849.jpg[/img]

Josiah and Mike after unloading. Good thing no one else was around, it seems we blocked the portage -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1854.jpg[/img]

Mike was of course carrying the Champlain across. The portage was not long so that part was no problem for him, but he still had to perfect his lift. I gave a little advice on roll and momentum, and he was off -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1860.jpg[/img]

It helps to have a long wingspan -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1862.jpg[/img]

Smoothly up it goes -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1864.jpg[/img]

Score! Right in place -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1866.jpg[/img]

At the other end loading up -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1868.jpg[/img]

And down (actually, up) the Korb River -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1874.jpg[/img]

The scene along the river -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1875.jpg[/img]

We paddled along the river and through Korb Lake, which is like a wide part of the river, then caucused about lunch plans. Everyone thought we should keep going at least to Little Crab before lunch. After Korb Lake we quickly came to the main beaver dam in the river, this time going up stream, and lifted over. Then we paddled upstream to the submerged dam/riffle at the outlet of Little Crab Lake and powered through. Josiah was paddling stern the whole way with David in the bow of the Spirit II and was doing a great job.

Now it was time for lunch. It was hot in the sun out on the river and we were ready for shade. Fortunately the campsite on Little Crab was available and provided some welcome relief -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1884.jpg[/img]

During lunch we talked about our route out tomorrow. Did the guys want to try going down Crab Creek, which might be more of an adventure than the portage? Everyone was for it, so it was a plan. Say cheese -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1881.jpg[/img]

Looking out from the campsite -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1882.jpg[/img]

After lunch it was a quick paddle to the easy 20-rodder to Crab Lake. Josiah wanted to take another stab at carrying the Spirit II here - mostly for the photo op, of course. Off to a good start -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1885.jpg[/img]

The kid has style -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1886.jpg[/img]

Going great -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1887.jpg[/img]

Uh oh -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1889.jpg[/img]

Ouch, that has to hurt -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1891.jpg[/img]

Saved with a smile -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1893.jpg[/img]

Mike carried the other canoe across the short portage, and we hauled the packs over and were back on Crab, where we planned to camp for the night. Now we just needed to find a site. We headed first toward the site on the northern point where the main arms of the lake cross. That site always looked good from the distance in the past, and seemed like it would be shady and catch the breeze on this nice day. It didn't look occupied until Mike and I got right up to the shore, when suddenly a big tarp with two guys under it came into view. Alas, the site was taken. We waved hello but didn't get much of a greeting back. As we paddled on we realized it was the two taciturn guys we had seen on the Crab Lake portage on the first day of our trip.

With that site taken, we went to check the site at the northeast tip of the lake where Crab Creek begins, since we were planning to go out that way tomorrow. But when we scoped that site, we decided it was subpar and we should look further. We aimed for the next site south, but spied a couple tents there as we got closer. Fortunately, the next site on the western tip of the big point was open. As it happened, this was where we camped with my sister on the last night of our 2006 trip, and where we had lunch on the first day of this trip too.

This was a nice site when we stayed here in 2006. Now the water was higher and virtually lapping against the fire ring, and someone had left the big logs around the fire pit in a heaping mess. But after David and I cleaned up the "furniture" it was looking good again. Josiah set up the bear rope on some big pines back behind the tent area. It's great to have the baseball players along.

The only problem with the site was that the trees by the shore did not provide much shade from the sun beating down from the west. That didn't seem to stop Josiah from falling asleep in the sun -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1898.jpg[/img]

There was a hubbub of activity on Crab Lake after we set up camp. First, the two guys who we had met on the portage a couple days ago and were occupying the site we wanted earlier today loaded up and paddled out. Mike dubbed them Tweedledee and Tweedledum. Thanks for telling us you were about to leave the site, guys. But it was all for the best, because then a big crew of just-older-than-teenage young women paddled into the lake, searched for a site, and claimed the one abandoned by T&T, which was probably its highest and best use anyway. The young ladies were not the quietest group, especially when some fisherman rounded the point as the girls seemed to be skinny-dipping. Shrieking ensued. A family group also spent some time paddling around looking for a site. But all the activity did not detract from the pleasure of being there.

Between swims, some of us read a little. Mike reads Latin, so this might have been some ancient text, but I think it was about the war in Afghanistan -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1899.jpg[/img]

I found a shady spot nearby to read, and then set up the stove back in the shade too. We were having bean and rice burritos with cheese and salsa (yum!) -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1901.jpg[/img]

The campsite scene (Mike still reading) -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1902.jpg[/img]

We went for a swim (actually more than one) after dinner. As we got out of the water, we saw a group of Green Sunfish lingering near shore. They ended up providing entertainment for quite a while. Josiah was intent on catching one by hand. I related how a few years ago we just happened to swat a fly and toss it into a lake where there were some Green Sunfish nearby and the Sunfish darted to the surface and sucked down the fly before you could bat an eye. So we killed a few insect victims and tried it out. Bingo! Those Sunfish are fast as lightning when a maimed bug lands on the surface. Josiah tried to grab the fish as they came to the surface, and almost managed to do it once or twice, but they were too fast for him. Finally the kids got out one of the fishing rods we had been lugging with us but not used -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1904.jpg[/img]

Eventually a Sunfish was caught and released. Unfortunately, we do not have the photo to prove it. Take my word for it, though, it was about 14" and probably weighed 4 pounds. Really!

After "fishing" and another swim, it was time for evening beverages -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1905.jpg[/img]

One of the nice things about this site was that (unlike our site on Cummings) there were essentially no bugs during the daytime. But we knew they would come out not too long after sunset, so Josiah armed himself with a flyswatter -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1908.jpg[/img]

After the sun had gone below the horizon, Josiah took preemptive refuge in the tent, while the rest of us enjoyed the post-sunset light -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1909.jpg[/img]

Not too long after that, right on schedule, the mosquito hordes emerged, and Mike, David and I scrambled to get our teeth brushed and get in the tents. Once in the tents, search and destroy missions were executed to eliminate any invaders. I read for a while, and when it was time for lights out, I sat up in the tent and could see a beaver swimming by. I had to smile because the last time we stayed at this site a whole beaver family could be heard felling trees all night. I noticed too the mosquito buzzing had already stopped. They disappeared as fast as they came. So I got up for a quick commune with nature before falling into a deep night's sleep, punctuated now and again with the calls of the loons and the girls camped across the lake.

 



Day 5 of 4


Day 2 (July 24, 2010) -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/Day-2.jpg[/img]

The rain lingered into the morning. Since we weren't in any hurry, the mosquitoes were out in force, and the young guys seemed to be big sleepers, I stayed in the tent a lot longer than I usually do, finally getting up around 8:00. David got up too and helped me get the food pack down so we could have coffee. Enjoying a cup of joe -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1785.jpg[/img]

The expanse of Cummings stretching westward -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1786.jpg[/img]

The shoreline to the south of our point -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1787.jpg[/img]

Rock and pine -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1788.jpg[/img]

The two of us hung out with the bugs for a couple hours and then decided it was time for breakfast and rousted the guys out of their tent around 10:00. I asked them how they slept, and the answer was not so well. It seems that a mess of skeeters got in their tent at the start of the night and they failed to kill them off before lights out. Then another squadron invaded when they got up to put the fly on. We counseled taking strict search and destroy counterinsurgency measures after getting in the tent in the future.

Michael and Josiah also said that they thought they heard wolves soon after going to bed last night. I was wondering if they had heard some particularly crazy loons, but I had described to them what wolves sounded like, and they thought they were a match. David said he heard them too. Well, my hearing is not what it once was!

I made bacon and pancakes for a breakfast, which was a hit with the guys -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1789.jpg[/img]

We lazed and dawdled for a while after breakfast. When I was filtering some water in the late morning, a 3-person canoe came by heading west. We could see later that they set up camp a couple miles away at the western end of the lake. Otherwise we didn't see anyone else today.

Eventually we got into gear for a day trip. We decided to paddle to the western end of Cummings, lift over into Otter, and then explore the beginning of the Little Indian Sioux River. From the map, it looked like the LIS has a bunch of portages connecting little pools in that first section, so we probably wouldn't get very far down the river, but it seemed worth exploring.

Josiah wanted to try out being in the stern, and I suggested to Mike he might want to try too. He was dubious but gave it a go. I reviewed the steering and j-stroke instruction I'd given back at the cabin, and we were off -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1794.jpg[/img]

Mike had some trouble getting the hang of steering. It was hard from the bow to tell exactly what the problem was. I'm not sure he was doing the j-stroke right, but I think the bigger issue was that he had trouble anticipating when he had corrected enough, so the canoe would swing first to the right, then be overcorrected too far to the left, then be overcorrected too far to the right, and so on. It probably didn't help that we were in a big unloaded canoe with a fair amount of rocker. Fortunately, there was little wind, because with our disparity in weight it was hard to get the canoe trimmed right (we did have our food pack as far forward as possible). So we ended up zigzagging down Cummings. Which was just fine, because the journey is the destination. Another shot of the two of us -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1797.jpg[/img]

Mike was still smiling -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1812.jpg[/img]

For his part, Josiah picked up the j-stroke and the overall steering concept pretty fast -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1803.jpg[/img]

Does this picture look posed? -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1806.jpg[/img]

Eventually we came to the little rapids and liftover to Otter Lake. Mike and I had probably covered twice as much distance as Josiah and David, but Mike got us there nonetheless. He said we definitely needed to switch places at the portage, though. I think Mike is a confirmed bowman. Which was fine with me, because I like paddling in the stern. And Mike provided a lot of power in the bow.

Looking through to Otter Lake as we approached the liftover. This was the only time David and Josiah beat us anywhere on this trip -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1816.jpg[/img]

It's a scenic little spot -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1819.jpg[/img]

Otter inlet -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1823.jpg[/img]

Waiting to get going -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1821.jpg[/img]

We made a beeline across Otter, which is a pretty little lake, to the headwaters of the Little Indian Sioux. I wasn't paying too close attention to the map to see where the first portage was, since we were just exploring anyway, but later I looked and it seems like it might start right at the end of the lake. We never checked, and I'm not sure the portages are maintained much or at all along this part of the river (anyone know?). We threaded our way through a shallow, rocky area with a decent current to a small pool that quickly came to a screeching halt at a giant beaver dam. (I think the dam is actually a little further west than I marked it on the map above, at the far end of the first big pool in the river.)

We made our way through various obstacles to the shore and I got out to try to take a closer look at the dam -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1827.jpg[/img]

Mike looked on skeptically -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1828.jpg[/img]

Deeper, deeper. . . -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1831.jpg[/img]

This dam must be at least 150 feet long (maybe much more) and probably 6 or more feet high. It's hard to tell because you really couldn't get a good view of the whole thing or the downstream side. Another view -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1834.jpg[/img]

Looking back at the flooded meadow -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1838.jpg[/img]

I came upon a blueberry patch while scouting in vain for a path to the downstream side of the dam, so we stopped to snack -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1842.jpg[/img]

The sky had been clearing for a while now, and it got hot when the sun came out -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1843.jpg[/img]

We scouted around a little more to see if there was a way around the dam, but figured that whatever portage there was must start back by Otter. By now we were ready for lunch and decided to turn around and stop at the Otter campsite to eat. The shade when we got to our lunch spot was a blessing-

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1845.jpg[/img]

Filtering water -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1846.jpg[/img]

After lunch we decided to make a beeline back to our campsite to swim and loaf. It didn't take long to retrace our route (without any zigzagging this time). The rest of the day we just hung out in camp, grateful for the shade and thankful when the breeze picked up to cool us in the open pines and clear some of the daytime mosquitoes away. In a serious breech of protocol, we completely forgot to take any pictures.

For dinner we made Zup's brats with wild rice over the fire, boiled up and buttered some red potatoes, and had some baby carrots. We were eating much better than David and I normally do at dinners. After cleaning up, battening down the camp, and taking yet another swim, we enjoyed some evening beverages on our big west-facing dome of granite before the post-sunset horde of mosquitoes forced into the tents.

 



Day 9 of 4


Day 3 (July 25, 2010) -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/Day-3.jpg[/img]

We got up earlier today than yesterday (which would not be hard). David and I had coffee, and at a very reasonable hour Mike crawled out of the tent as well. I asked whether the mosquito situation was better than the night before. Yes, the lesson had been learned, Josiah and Mike went on a search and destroy mission right after they got in the tent and slept soundly after that.

Since we were going to travel today, we also rousted Josiah out of bed at a reasonable time. Breakfast today was bacon and oatmeal. The oatmeal did not receive the same warm welcome from the youngsters as yesterday's pancakes. Good thing we planned pancakes for tomorrow.

We broke camp and went for a dip before launching, since the day was already warm. Then we headed east back across Cummings to take the alternative route into the Korb River, instead of portaging directly into Korb Lake. In stark contrast to when we paddled in two days before, the campsites we passed in the eastern part of Cummings were empty now. Today was Sunday, so maybe the weeklong base campers had headed out in between. Or maybe it was just randomness that made it full one day and empty the next.

It wasn't long before we arrived at the 30-rod portage from Cummings to the river -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1849.jpg[/img]

Josiah and Mike after unloading. Good thing no one else was around, it seems we blocked the portage -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1854.jpg[/img]

Mike was of course carrying the Champlain across. The portage was not long so that part was no problem for him, but he still had to perfect his lift. I gave a little advice on roll and momentum, and he was off -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1860.jpg[/img]

It helps to have a long wingspan -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1862.jpg[/img]

Smoothly up it goes -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1864.jpg[/img]

Score! Right in place -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1866.jpg[/img]

At the other end loading up -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1868.jpg[/img]

And down (actually, up) the Korb River -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1874.jpg[/img]

The scene along the river -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1875.jpg[/img]

We paddled along the river and through Korb Lake, which is like a wide part of the river, then caucused about lunch plans. Everyone thought we should keep going at least to Little Crab before lunch. After Korb Lake we quickly came to the main beaver dam in the river, this time going up stream, and lifted over. Then we paddled upstream to the submerged dam/riffle at the outlet of Little Crab Lake and powered through. Josiah was paddling stern the whole way with David in the bow of the Spirit II and was doing a great job.

Now it was time for lunch. It was hot in the sun out on the river and we were ready for shade. Fortunately the campsite on Little Crab was available and provided some welcome relief -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1884.jpg[/img]

During lunch we talked about our route out tomorrow. Did the guys want to try going down Crab Creek, which might be more of an adventure than the portage? Everyone was for it, so it was a plan. Say cheese -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1881.jpg[/img]

Looking out from the campsite -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1882.jpg[/img]

After lunch it was a quick paddle to the easy 20-rodder to Crab Lake. Josiah wanted to take another stab at carrying the Spirit II here - mostly for the photo op, of course. Off to a good start -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1885.jpg[/img]

The kid has style -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1886.jpg[/img]

Going great -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1887.jpg[/img]

Uh oh -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1889.jpg[/img]

Ouch, that has to hurt -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1891.jpg[/img]

Saved with a smile -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1893.jpg[/img]

Mike carried the other canoe across the short portage, and we hauled the packs over and were back on Crab, where we planned to camp for the night. Now we just needed to find a site. We headed first toward the site on the northern point where the main arms of the lake cross. That site always looked good from the distance in the past, and seemed like it would be shady and catch the breeze on this nice day. It didn't look occupied until Mike and I got right up to the shore, when suddenly a big tarp with two guys under it came into view. Alas, the site was taken. We waved hello but didn't get much of a greeting back. As we paddled on we realized it was the two taciturn guys we had seen on the Crab Lake portage on the first day of our trip.

With that site taken, we went to check the site at the northeast tip of the lake where Crab Creek begins, since we were planning to go out that way tomorrow. But when we scoped that site, we decided it was subpar and we should look further. We aimed for the next site south, but spied a couple tents there as we got closer. Fortunately, the next site on the western tip of the big point was open. As it happened, this was where we camped with my sister on the last night of our 2006 trip, and where we had lunch on the first day of this trip too.

This was a nice site when we stayed here in 2006. Now the water was higher and virtually lapping against the fire ring, and someone had left the big logs around the fire pit in a heaping mess. But after David and I cleaned up the "furniture" it was looking good again. Josiah set up the bear rope on some big pines back behind the tent area. It's great to have the baseball players along.

The only problem with the site was that the trees by the shore did not provide much shade from the sun beating down from the west. That didn't seem to stop Josiah from falling asleep in the sun -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1898.jpg[/img]

There was a hubbub of activity on Crab Lake after we set up camp. First, the two guys who we had met on the portage a couple days ago and were occupying the site we wanted earlier today loaded up and paddled out. Mike dubbed them Tweedledee and Tweedledum. Thanks for telling us you were about to leave the site, guys. But it was all for the best, because then a big crew of just-older-than-teenage young women paddled into the lake, searched for a site, and claimed the one abandoned by T&T, which was probably its highest and best use anyway. The young ladies were not the quietest group, especially when some fisherman rounded the point as the girls seemed to be skinny-dipping. Shrieking ensued. A family group also spent some time paddling around looking for a site. But all the activity did not detract from the pleasure of being there.

Between swims, some of us read a little. Mike reads Latin, so this might have been some ancient text, but I think it was about the war in Afghanistan -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1899.jpg[/img]

I found a shady spot nearby to read, and then set up the stove back in the shade too. We were having bean and rice burritos with cheese and salsa (yum!) -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1901.jpg[/img]

The campsite scene (Mike still reading) -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1902.jpg[/img]

We went for a swim (actually more than one) after dinner. As we got out of the water, we saw a group of Green Sunfish lingering near shore. They ended up providing entertainment for quite a while. Josiah was intent on catching one by hand. I related how a few years ago we just happened to swat a fly and toss it into a lake where there were some Green Sunfish nearby and the Sunfish darted to the surface and sucked down the fly before you could bat an eye. So we killed a few insect victims and tried it out. Bingo! Those Sunfish are fast as lightning when a maimed bug lands on the surface. Josiah tried to grab the fish as they came to the surface, and almost managed to do it once or twice, but they were too fast for him. Finally the kids got out one of the fishing rods we had been lugging with us but not used -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1904.jpg[/img]

Eventually a Sunfish was caught and released. Unfortunately, we do not have the photo to prove it. Take my word for it, though, it was about 14" and probably weighed 4 pounds. Really!

After "fishing" and another swim, it was time for evening beverages -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1905.jpg[/img]

One of the nice things about this site was that (unlike our site on Cummings) there were essentially no bugs during the daytime. But we knew they would come out not too long after sunset, so Josiah armed himself with a flyswatter -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1908.jpg[/img]

After the sun had gone below the horizon, Josiah took preemptive refuge in the tent, while the rest of us enjoyed the post-sunset light -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1909.jpg[/img]

Not too long after that, right on schedule, the mosquito hordes emerged, and Mike, David and I scrambled to get our teeth brushed and get in the tents. Once in the tents, search and destroy missions were executed to eliminate any invaders. I read for a while, and when it was time for lights out, I sat up in the tent and could see a beaver swimming by. I had to smile because the last time we stayed at this site a whole beaver family could be heard felling trees all night. I noticed too the mosquito buzzing had already stopped. They disappeared as fast as they came. So I got up for a quick commune with nature before falling into a deep night's sleep, punctuated now and again with the calls of the loons and the girls camped across the lake.

 



Day 11 of 4


Day 4 (July 26, 2010) -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/Day-4.jpg[/img]

I got up at about 6:30 at our Crab Lake site and made that great first cup of coffee -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1915.jpg[/img]

It was a beautiful calm morning -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1917.jpg[/img]

The rest of the guys got up fairly early too. We had pancakes and bacon for breakfast, took a dip, and broke camp. We'd decided to go back to Burntside Lake via Crab Creek back instead of taking the portage. The folks at VNO told us that some other customers took the creek a week earlier without a hitch. With the water level reasonably high, it seemed like a good time to try this. We explained to Mike and Josiah that there could be lots of beaver dams to lift over and they would have to be ready to jump out of the canoe anytime, possibly into deep muck. We also said we'd never gone that way and didn't know what to expect ourselves. It could be an adventure, and not necessarily easier than the mile-long portage. They were all for it, especially Josiah.

We had scheduled our pickup on Burntside for 2:00 to give us lots of leeway our last day. As it happened, we paddled out of camp around 9:30, which gave us tons of time (unless the creek turned out to be much more difficult than anticipated). Here Mike and I are heading into the northern tip of Crab Lake as it narrows to become Crab Creek -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1922.jpg[/img]

Entering the creek -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1925.jpg[/img]

Near the beginning of the creek there's an area where there seemed to be a lot of submerged wood. Bowman Mike guided us through an opening, and only when we were right on top of it did we realize that the wood was an old structure - presumably a bridge or crossing for an old logging road -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1928.jpg[/img]

Josiah in the stern of the second canoe at the "bridge" -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1934.jpg[/img]

A nearby log garden -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1930.jpg[/img]

Mike and I continuing downstream - there was an amazing number of water lilies in here -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1935.jpg[/img]

Soon we got to our first beaver dam of the day. Mike hopping out onto the dam -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1941.jpg[/img]

I joined him and we maneuvered the canoe around -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1955.jpg[/img]

And over -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1973.jpg[/img]

Don't let go! -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1987.jpg[/img]

At this point I had the bright idea that I would get in the stern (which was next to the dam) and Mike could wait on the dam until I paddled the canoe around with the bow facing back up. The problem was that with the narrow waterway and rushing current below the dam, it wasn't so easy to do. I managed though. After Mike hopped in, we had to turn around again and were on our way.

Once the path was clear, David and Josiah tried a different approach: paddling over the dam full speed ahead. Josiah had a theory that it worked better if he whooped a war cry as they went over. With their smaller and lighter canoe, and following after we had pulled over, they were able to go over a few dams in this way that Mike and I got hung up on and had to lift over.

Getting back in after another dam -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1993.jpg[/img]

Below that dam the creek narrowed. But the water was remarkably clear, it was plenty deep, and there was a pretty decent current -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_1995.jpg[/img]

Downstream a ways we came to an impassable part of the creek where there was a portage on the left side. I don't think the Forest Service maintains the portages in here, and this one was more like an average interior Quetico portage than the clear BW paths we had been on so far this trip. Mike leapt out of the boat and scouted part of the way, then came back and got the Champlain and was off. This portage was the real test of canoe portaging skill, because there were several obstacles like this -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_2009.jpg[/img]

I had to bow down pretty far to get under that tree with the Spirit II. Mike had the bigger Champlain and is the better part of a foot taller, and he told me afterwards that he was really squatting going under this tree. But he made it past this and several other obstacles with no problem. Good work!

This portage was maybe 80 or 100 rods (it's not marked, much less measured, on the maps), and paralleled a series of unnavigable rapids on the creek -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_2002.jpg[/img]

Can't have a trip report without at least one portage fungus pic -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_2004.jpg[/img]

Old wolf scat -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_2007.jpg[/img]

The far end of the portage had a section of muck. Josiah was portaging in Keen's and lost one in here, but he managed to fish it out -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_2012.jpg[/img]

The very last stretch went through a wet grassy area -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_2014.jpg[/img] Mike and I loaded up and were ready to go -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_2015.jpg[/img]

The next stretch of the creek has wider water meandering through a big marsh. It twists and turns a lot, so you have to paddle much further than the linear distance on the map. It ends at another impassable stretch of creek where there is a second portage on the right side of the creek. Looking back from the second portage -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_2020.jpg[/img]

This portage is maybe 40 rods. Josiah carrying a pack over -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_2024.jpg[/img]

It was very mucky at the downstream end of the portage, but we could load up on land and slide in over the grass and muck -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_2022.jpg[/img]

The last stretch of the creek was more wide meandering water making its way slowly through the marsh. It was really great, but unfortunately we didn't take any pictures in there. As we got further downstream we could sense the fresh wind blowing in from Burntside. The transition from the meandering marshy creek to the big island-studded lake is marked by a small rocky rapids. There's a spot where people have lifted over the smooth granite to the side of the little rapids, but I thought we should line down. Of course I managed to slip while wading in the current and gashed my leg on a very sharp rock just below the water's surface. It scabbed up within a few days and is now in the process of becoming a nice scar as a souvenir.

There is a campsite on the small bay on the west side of Burntside where the creek empties. Kevin our towboat driver told us he would look for us at both the creek and the portage, and said if we came down the creek the campsite would be a good place to meet. We were way early but didn't mind basking at the campsite for an hour and half while we had lunch and chilled. There's a picnic table there and we relished the luxurious comfort it provided. We even got out the stove for some lunchtime coffee. 

The crew at the Burtnside site -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_2028.jpg[/img]

Kevin showed up right on schedule with a different boat and (more importantly) different motor than on our way in. We were happy to have a tow as we sped across windy and rough Burntside Lake. Getting back close to home here -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_2032.jpg[/img]

The Dave-O held down the bow -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/IMG_2037.jpg[/img]

Mike's parents were waiting on the dock and got a picture of us coming in -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/XComingaround2.jpg[/img]

We unloaded and carried stuff up to the cabin. Mike carried the Champlain up. His parents were duly impressed -

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v213/billnwashdc/BW%20July%202010/YFinalPortage2.jpg[/img]

Postscript -

This was a great trip. It was really fun for David and me to introduce Mike and Josiah to wilderness tripping. They were great traveling companions who easily rose to the challenges of the trip and both learned some new canoe camping skills. We would welcome either or both of them back anytime. And they've both said they're up for more.

We planned our route for this trip to be somewhat challenging and adventurous for the new guys, but not too crazy. We also told them that we could revise the plan at any time - except for the entry and exit times and place. I think the mile-long portage could have been a bad way to start if David and I did not have such a mellow attitude to portaging. Still, the guys seemed a little tired at the end of the first day. But we kicked it back the next day, and had a good mix of activity and relaxation.

With the rainy mid-summer, the bugs on this trip were pretty bad, especially at our first campsite on Cummings, which was otherwise fantastic. Josiah counted the mosquitoes he killed as they sucked his blood (for some reason he called them all "Steve") and finished the trip with something like Steve 72. I actually didn't think that was so bad. Still, it will be nice if the guys get to experience the area with a little less bug activity in the future.

Michael's and Josiah's mothers are both also interested in going on a canoe trip (not so the dads). But we got a note from Josiah's mom afterwards saying Josiah told her she was too much of a wimp for this trip. Ha ha! Well, sorry to say, but I think he's right. We might need to take the moms on a slightly different trip. But it will be fun too!

When we got back to the cabin after the trip, there were lots of cookies and beers to be consumed by the crew . Then we all popped open our laptops and plugged back in. For a lot of the rest of the afternoon the four of us played Scrabble with each other over the Internet. Sure, there was a real Scrabble board available, but what fun is that? It was kind of a funny contrast to how we started the day, but we really enjoyed it.

We ate much better dinners on this trip than David and I normally do. We're now revamping our dinner plan for our upcoming Quetico trip. The new guys ate an enormous amount of food. It's a good thing we didn't get windbound or something, because we pretty much ate every last bite by the end of the trip.

On the gear front, we had a major failure with our new Katadyn Vario filter. After the first couple liters, it was almost impossible to use in the setting designed for water that has a lot of impurities (like the BW in mid-summer). So that setting does not really work in the conditions it's purportedly designed for. What's the point? Its performance improved when we switched to the easy-flow setting, although that clogs the filter faster. But then the attachment where the intake hose attaches to the filter body just broke off. Fortunately we were able to fix it with duct tape for the rest the trip. I was kind of surprised the fix worked, given how important airtight suction is for a water filter, but it did. Three cheers for duct tape! Needless to say, though, we returned the filter to REI when we got back. I like the old, simpler Katadyn filters better. This is a case were "new and improved" is a step backwards. Now we've taken the plunge with a Steripen for the next trip.

And we'll see how it works soon. David and I are heading to Quetico on September 1. By then I'll be 50 years old. Look for a trip report from an old man later in the year . . .

 


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