Joel & Blake arrive early enough that we can all make it to Mass together later this evening at Holy Spirit parish in Virginia. Father Brandon also has a BWCA trip planned (and will enter a day after us) so, his homiletic remarks about taking the time to appreciate the natural beauty in the smallest details is a most appropriate spiritual send off.

I hadn’t purchased any beer for this trip but, Joel insists we grab some so, I grab my growlers and we head over to the Boathouse in Ely to have them filled with some blueberry blonde while we sit down and have supper.

Back at the hacienda, we get the canoes loaded on our vehicles and finalize getting the packs properly situated for ‘hopefully’ only having to double portage. We want to get an early start tomorrow morning so it’s early to bed.

Departure by about 6:00 a.m. although, I make a quick U-turn before we make it out of town to grab Aurora’s long sleeve shirt. Hopefully that’s all we forgot. Taking highway 1 south to Isabella, we turn off and traverse the forest roads the rest of the way to the Kawishiwi Lake campground/landing. As fate would have it, 2 other groups pull in within a few minutes of us and we are all joined by clouds of mosquitos as we get our sea-faring vessels loaded.

One of the other groups (a husband/wife?) get started just ahead of us so, being they look like they know what they’re doing, I don’t unfold my map out and just follow them NW up the lake as a faint breeze helps to keep the bugs at bay. Soon, we enter the Kawishiwi River which already appears to be choked with lily pads and various weeds. Still, paddling is not hindered in any meaningful aspect as we enjoy (per Father Brandon) the surrounding scenery of shoreline tamarack trees and various sprouting water flowers.

An almost imperceptible little beaver dam is encountered just before we enter Square Lake but, is easily paddled over as we also begin to encounter the first charred evidential remains of the Pagami Creek fire. While it’s only a quick, short paddle back into the river across Square Lake, we get a good enough look to realize it got hammered by the fire.

The couple ahead of us choose to undertake the portage just past the lake. There is a well-defined landing but, we choose to paddle around and past the downstream landing and don’t encounter even the slightest of problems in doing so. Excepting the beavers totally rearranging their plans, I don’t think this portage would ever be necessary - regardless of water level. Some of the areas back in here remind me of a Louisiana bayou and there is a neat rock outcropping before encountering the 1st of 2 large beaver dams. Obstacle number one is easily pulled over but, the second requires a bit more thought and effort. There is an actual makeshift trail on the east side which comes in handy. As we paddle through Kawasachong Lake I make a mental note that all sites are currently occupied. This lake also pretty much got leveled by Pagami and the only real evidence of much in the way of mature growth is near the campsites – although even that is sparse.

Pulling into the uninviting large rocky landing just ahead a tandem of motivated paddlers, I quickly defer and let them “play through”. Before undertaking the portage, I give a quick pep talk to the troops saying this should be the worst of the portages we’ll encounter today so, if we can get this one behind us things should get progressively easier as we approach Malberg.

The messy landing behind us; the trail is really a nice flat walk almost the entire way with a fashionable “rock walk” near the mid-point. Nearing Townline there is a noticeable decent that, much like virtually all the trail, currently affords little in the way of shaded relief. Blake quickly proves himself to be a true workhorse as he hauls huge loads across without complaint or, apparently, fatigue. Townline is a glorified beaver pond that also shows clearly distinguishable signs of the wrath of Pagami. Since there isn’t much for shoreline cover, the large pile of treated lumber just across the lake sticks out like a sore thumb. Undoubtedly this will be used to refurbish the atrocious dilapidated walkway that currently serves as our next landing.

Finishing our slog up the muddy runway, I am pleasantly surprised as I finally reach dry terra-firma when a veiled maiden unexpectedly compliments my bwca.com hat. It’s bwca.com board members Twins87 & luft who are just finishing up their trip! Aurora is surprised that they know her, and we enjoy a nice conversation as they give us up to the minute intel and warn us that the bugs are the worst they’ve ever seen.

Thankfully, for us, the bugs haven’t been too bad yet, and we make quick work of this portage that is much the same as the previous, only the steep descent down to Polly is much shorter and the view from atop the granite knob currently lays out an awe-inspiring panoramic view north across this beautiful lake.

After navigating our way to the north end of the lake we are briefly confused by the maze of islands but eventually find our way to the river outlet. Having heard several recent accounts of people being able to walk through this section, we employ that strategy as well. Getting out to walk our canoes through, the cool water is seen as a blessing as the heat of the day is intensifying. Water levels are sufficiently high enough that we can do so for both the shorter river portages as we also pass over where the old Tomahawk Lumber Company Road crosses the waterway.

The last (longer) portage in Koma comes into view and I tell the troops that should be our last major challenge of the day. Coming across it we note (as Twins87 informed us) that the huge spruce tree that had fallen earlier has been cleared away by another bwca.com member LindenTree. Sad to see such an impressive specimen taken down but nearby, just off the trail on the river side, there is a monstrosity of a white pine still standing guard and we take some time to marvel at this still standing sentinel of the forest.

We also cross paths with a family from Utah traveling southward on this portage and share a walk back to grab our second loads with them. Apparently their 2 sons are attempting to use the river and trying to skip this trail. While a bit long (and currently buggy) to me this path doesn’t seem to pose any overly significant deterrent. As we finish up, the 2 boys are now coming down the trail saying they were resoundingly rebuffed in their river expedition but, still seem contented enough in their effort to try it.

Out on Koma the wind has kicked up some. It’s a good news/bad news scenario. The good news is the cooling breeze feels heavenly and is keeping the bugs away. The bad news is we need to paddle into some pretty good chop. The narrowing north end bay minimizes the waves but there’s a gauntlet of ‘rockodiles’ just below the surface that we need to slalom through before arriving at the expansive rock slab landing.

Hopefully this will be our last portage of the day. It’s an excellent path that skirts the Kawishiwi River and the gurgling rapids that necessitate this portage. It kind of reminds me of the Mora to Little Saganaga portage. As the huge boulder in the middle of the river comes into view, we run across another group here fishing and exploring. They quickly inform us that they are not camping here on Malberg and will be moving on, which helps set our minds at ease about having to potentially compete for a good campsite.

Being our plan is to basecamp here we don’t spend much time appreciating the inherent beauty of this spot and proceed up the lake in hopes of grabbing a quality campsite. It’s one last tussle with the wind as we work our way north up the lake past a couple of vacant sites on the eastern seaboard side of the lake. The first site we see isn’t much of a going concern but the second, near where the Louse River portage is, looks awfully inviting. However, I know the kids would thoroughly enjoy one of the premier beach sites that Malberg has to offer, and I would be remiss if we didn’t at least scope out if they’re available or not. The wisdom of this decision is fortified in the knowledge that all the other people coming in today have already stopped or veered off onto other locales.

Approaching the mid lake narrows the force of the wind mercifully recedes and we can not only appreciate that relief but also several of the unique shoreline rock formations and tiny caves in this immediate area. Of concern, we begin noticing other people around too. Starting with the occupied narrows campsite and seeing a canoe further west down the lake. While my resolve is a bit shaken, we press onward to the central junction of Malberg and begin to come around the point of the long peninsula.

Back deep in this lobe of the lake is our target campsite. So, as we round the horn it’s something of a hold your breath moment. Initially we are so far off that it is hard to discern if anyone is there or not, but it looks open. Drawing nearer, it soon becomes obvious that no one is there, and I feel a sudden strong surge of power in propulsion of the Black Pearl. I also get a little wet as the water is really flying off Aurora’s paddle!

The site is as advertised, and the kids feel the extra paddling was well worth the extra effort. The large beach is certainly inviting and there is a nice transition of lush cedars in gravel just behind that provide multiple excellent shaded spots for tents without the worry of dragging sand into the tent. Alas, the chink in the armor is that the mosquitos are thicker than hair on a dog back in the shade.

Aurora quickly locates a large cedar tree with an idyllic perch from which to lounge and relax while Blake gets his fishing gear ready to roll. Joel and I get our tents up and then it’s a full-fledged retreat out to the beach post haste to avoid the swarm of mosquitos. Finally having an opportunity to take stock of our situation, we note that it took us about 7 hours to get here. I don’t think that’s just too bad when considering we have a newbie & someone who hasn’t done a trip in about a dozen years.

After putting up some firewood; while Joel & I are sitting back relaxing, Aurora continues to amaze me when she asks if she can take the Black Pearl out by herself. Agreeing quickly, although I cautiously instruct her to stay within sight of our camp. While it has died down some it’s still a bit windy, and she gets pushed around a bit, but is able to successfully navigate around the better percentage of this large back bay without any help or instruction. I don’t know who’s the most excited or proud? Her for having accomplished the feat or me for having witnessed her having the confidence and fortitude to do so.

The 2 growlers of Blueberry Blonde we grabbed from the Boathouse last night essentially evaporate here this evening as Joel & I bask in the radiant glow of our crackling campfire which is dutifully policed by both younger members of our crew. Undaunted by earlier lack of success, Blake eventually pulls in the first fish of the trip (from shore) before the sun sets; hopeful that this ‘primes the pump’ for the remainder of our stay.

Joel & Blake are up at first light and head out on the lake to try their luck. Aurora is still sleeping so I stay back and process some firewood and begin to get things arranged for breakfast when the fishermen return. I note that keeping the campfire going is almost a necessity, not so much for the heat or cooking but to simply smoke out the mosquitos!

Aurora getting up coincides with the return of the rest of the crew and we all sit down for some scrambled eggs & bagels. The fishing is slow but they do catch sight of a black bear on the opposite side of the lake. Unfortunately, it saunters off into the woods before they can get a picture. However, this is a timely reminder to be vigilant in keeping a clean, orderly camp.

After breakfast chores, we all head out to explore Malberg Lake. Blake soon picks up a small northern, but fishing remains very sporadic. Thankfully it’s another gorgeous day as we troll around the lake. Eventually, we retrace our path back towards Koma Lake. The fishing proves to be a bit better in this section of the lake, but the wind has picked up and is becoming bothersome. Aurora & I pull into campsite #1056 near the outlet of the Louse River to briefly duck out of the pushy waves.

There is a good shallow water landing and sufficient canoe storage area. The fire grate is situated near the lake in a wonderful grove of lush cedar trees however there was no log seating at all. It appears someone put in a tremendous amount of time assembling the boulders around camp creating a terraced effect. There are multiple flat tent pads, and you can explore the shoreline easily as well. We hear an unseen decent size animal scamper away as we wander about & happen upon a “gaggle” of yellow butterflies.

After resting up, we proceed south down the bay to the Koma portage where we join back up with Joel & Blake. Blake has finally found some walleyes but, yet again, catching them is an infrequent occurrence. As interest in fishing wanes, we all take time to explore the scenic rapids that parallel this portage. The monstrosity of a boulder that is positioned in the middle of the rapids is certainly one of the most famous/photographed in all the BWCA and we too partake in that seemingly obligatory time-honored tradition.

It is decided that today we will just hang out here on Malberg and recuperate from our travels of yesterday. Taking separate routes back to camp we explore the unique shorelines of Malberg as we lazily paddle back towards camp. Considering the ravenous nature of the mosquitos back in camp, I hasten to locate some additional firewood to, hopefully, keep them at bay with the smoke. Fortunately, there are chewed up beaver sticks of varying sizes washed up along much of the shorelines, so we load the Black Pearl up before fully committing to returning to camp.

While I process the firewood Aurora, still brimming with confidence from yesterday's solo, now escorts Blake out so he can fish. While they don’t have much luck fishing, I think they both are grateful for the opportunity to break free from parental tyranny and experience the unsupervised freedoms that the wilderness can provide.

Thankfully, the collection of firewood strategy pays off. As long as we stay close to the fire we are mostly left alone. However, once we enter the shaded areas, straight away, the mosquitos let us know they haven’t forgotten about us. Still, we can enjoy a quiet evening of quiet stargazing before prayers & eventually sauntering off to bed.

Another warm morning greets us as we rise and shake the cobwebs out while we strategize during breakfast on making it to Pan Lake later today. Coincidentally we’ve all developed the same plan of attack for using the latrine. Hold it until it’s almost uncomfortable before heading up so that the “evacuation” has as little resistance and is quick as possible!

The day is getting quite warm as we head out. Paddling up the NE arm of Malberg Lake it’s still shaded in the channel which provides some welcome relief. Stopping at the campsite just before the portage into the Kawishiwi River, we all grab a quick snack and pick a few strawberries at this tiny, lackluster, grassy site.

The portage starts out at a sizable gravel landing and briefly rises out of Malberg before tracing the rim of the gorge this trail circumvents before eventually dropping down steeply to a sloping rock faced landing where the rapids wash out. Lingering here to explore and absorb the scenic atmosphere, Aurora & Blake soon discover that this is also the best fishing spot we’ve run across so far as they pull in bass, northern & walleye.

Alas, we eventually paddle away up the channel and then across the large bay to the portage in Kivaniva Lake. The rocky landing is bothersome but soon overcome and the well-worn trail slightly climbs before dropping down on a more rugged path to another boulder laden landing.

We battle our way through a substantial bed of weeds before emerging out onto Kivaniva, which appears to be rimmed by much of the same. The lake is small enough that the campsite and location of our next portage are easily discerned.

Again we struggle through a weed choked bay before locating the very tiny creek that winds it way to our next portage. It’s very weedy back in here and Aurora chooses to stay in the canoe while I scope out the trail. It’s a little mushy but, otherwise it’s about as short & level as a person could hope for. However, upon my return,as Joel & Blake pole around the last couple of turns in the creek; I can’t help but notice a weary countenance among the crew. And, truth be told, I must admit I’m feeling exceedingly sluggish as well. So, I meet with no resistance when I suggest we abandon getting to Pan Lake and just paddle over to the campsite here and just hang out there.

Such a strange phenomenon. Almost always the first day is the biggest struggle. Usually after getting the bulging packs and gear to camp everyone then gets their muscles and breathing better attuned and the rest of the trip goes much smoother portage/travel wise. While I don’t understand why we’re all so wiped out already, I also don’t want to force a bad situation by pressing on.

The campsite here is situated on an elongated sloping hillside. While it’s not burnt over, the surrounding trees are anything but comely and don’t give the site a good feel. Yet there are a few nice tent pads and of course one campsite lakes are always a bonus. Aurora unearths a treasure of several premium skipping rocks while the rest of us lounge on the shaded hillside. 13 "skips" is the best she achieves today?

On our way back we again spend some time plying the waters below the rapids and are rewarded with a few more fish. Yet again I take each opportunity to pull off and grab the errant beaver sticks we come across as having ample firewood is certainly proving to be a necessity on this trip.

Joel & Blake are a good distance in front of us so, I endeavor to try and cut across at the narrow pinch point of the long peninsula to see if it saves time and perhaps surprise them if it does. An unintended consequence of this strategy is that we stumble upon a plethora of beaver sticks and old dried out cedar stumps. Which, while this “shortcut” does prove to save some time, discovering all the firewood becomes the real benefit.

Joel is still pretty wiped out so, after supper tonight I take Aurora & Blake out to see if we can catch some fish for a fish fry tomorrow evening. It’s a gorgeous cool evening with only the slightest hint of a breeze. We paddle over to the southernmost bay where we had a little luck yesterday. It’s slow going but we do manage to pull in a few keepers, although I tell the kids we need at least one more.

Approaching the portage to Koma, my legs are telling me in no uncertain terms that they need to get out and stretch. So, after pulling ashore and tying off, I gingerly saunter down the trail to do just that. A short while later, as I am poking around near the Koma end I’m startled when both Aurora & Blake come hurriedly sprinting down the trail nearly out of breath. I fully expect that they are going to tell me there’s a bear chomping away at the fish on the stringer pulling the canoe out into the lake. Instead, through heavy breathing, inform me that Blake just caught a nice walleye so we can start heading back.

Back out on the lake we continue to fish as we watch a cavalcade of beaver swimming to & fro dragging fresh branches with them. As the sun begins to set, we are roundly greeted by a swarm of voracious mosquitos that are apparently unaffected by any amount of repellant. The Black Pearl reaches speeds it has never attained before as we paddle back to camp in a flurry.

A gray cloudy sky greets us this morning as we crawl out of our tents this morning. During breakfast we all decide to keep it simple again today and just explore some more of Malberg Lake. Joel & Blake plan to revisit some of the spots where we had luck fishing, while Aurora & I hope to explore the westernmost lobe of the lake.

Initially we revisit the pinch point just SW of camp and stage all the firewood nearer shore for ease of picking it up upon our return. We then explore the faint trail up to the bluff between here and camp. Aurora is enthralled by a molting dragonfly and all the reindeer moss while I savor the nice view of our bay.

As we paddle about, we note that we are encountering more paddlers out on the lake than in our previous excursions. Still, there’s a good percentage of the campsites we pass that are still vacant. As the day wears on the winds increase and make paddling more of a chore but it serves to start pushing the gloomy looking clouds out.

While I continue to pick up the “low hanging fruit” (shoreline firewood) we encounter, Aurora is catching frogs like it’s going out of style. Eventually we work our way to the portage out to the Kawishiwi River from here in the western lobe. Aurora continues her pursuit of the frogs while I scout out this portage.

The landing is a little bumpy but, really, not too bad. Starting out the trail is an excellent flat path but, as Twins 87 & Luft had informed us, I soon come upon a flooded section. I don’t investigate any further and return to the Aurora & the Black Pearl.

On our return voyage, I methodically gather all the firewood piles I’d stashed around the perimeter of the lake. Upon our return to camp, the clouds have mostly cleared off and I begin processing my “booty” of firewood while Aurora frolics with her “gaggle” of frogs.

As I’m cutting up the firewood Aurora excitedly exclaims, “Hey! Look, there’s a plane flying right over us!” Looking up, I noticed another not too far behind the first. The harrowing reality is that they are both planes hauling water somewhere not too far away. Later, as we all discuss this around our perpetual campfire; we surmise the likely reason we’ve all been so sluggish since being up here is that the overall air quality is probably not the best because there is doubtlessly a larger fire nearby. As we enjoy our walleye supper, we resolve to get out of camp tomorrow come hell or highwater and go visit the pictographs on Fishdance Lake so as not to have to keep a fire going all day.

As promised, we paddle out immediately after breakfast. No one is enamored with the first portage of the day as we soon discover that there are 2 separate flooded sections along the trail as well as a large, downed tree. The mushy shallow water landing on the river end doesn’t do much to bolster spirits either. However, the utterly immense numbers of tiny tadpoles here is certainly a phenomenon none of us have witnessed before.

Blake hooks into a nice walleye out on River Lake and Aurora is catching some smallmouth bass too. Pulling into the luxurious northern most island campsite nearby, we assess the situation. Do we linger here and continue to fish or, do we proceed on to the pictographs? It’s going to be a long day just getting to Fishdance & back without too many delays so, if we backtrack now, it will likely jeopardize reaching that goal. Both Aurora & Blake want to see the pictographs so we press on with the understanding that they can fish along the way.

There is a bleached-out moose skull propped up on a large boulder at the downstream landing of the short portage east of Fishdance lake and Aurora yanks out one of its teeth as a keepsake as we pass through. Looking at the map, this is definitely one of those sections where our destination seems a LOT closer than the paddling seems to take.

However, we do eventually make the turn south down into Fishdance Lake and the famed cliffs soon come into sight. I can sense the eager anticipation heavy in the air as Aurora & Blake diligently scan the cliff walls for any anomaly. At long last they come into sight and, like so many before us, lingering atop the liquid amphitheater which is presenting us with a glimpse into a different time and culture.

Not too many minutes later, an unavoidable restlessness overcomes us, and we begin the arduous paddle back to camp that none of us is looking forward to. I ponder on the fact that we paddled and portaged all this way just to spend a few fleeting moments gazing upon some painted rocks that I could’ve shown everyone a picture of back home. As it so often does, the age old saying, “It’s the journey, not the destination.” rings so true here. Or, in the spiritual sense I have it similarly said, “The road to Heaven, IS Heaven.” Like so many things in life, the struggles & sufferings are really what usually create or at least illuminate, lasting unforgettable memories. I think if everything in this life always worked out exactly & in the most convenient manner possible, when/where would we ever derive true joy? I think life would devolve into a colorless almost mechanical/robotic existence. Mankind would do well to fully realize this unassailable truth.

None of us want to have to go back across the western portage back into Malberg so we continue east past our previous route. There is a short portage at a narrowing in the Kawishiwi River almost directly north of Malberg that proves to be an incredibly enchanting spot. A mammoth white pine towers over the landing and shades a short set of scenic rapids and the dark pool just below. Blake pulls in a walleye on his first cast while Joel & Aurora soak in the ambiance. I slowly start getting our stuff across hoping everyone can catch their breath a bit before moving on. Back in familiar waters at the NE portage into Malberg, the kids & Joel take some time to fish at the honey hole - knowing this is our last portage. We’ve still got a fair distance to paddle but, it is kind of a good feeling to have that last portage in the rear-view mirror. Hoping to avoid the mosquito onslaught, after catching a few more fish, we do start making our way back to camp before it gets too late.

The game plan for today is something of a staging effort, as we hope to strike camp and head for Kawasachong and grab a site there or on Square Lake so as to have a quicker exit tomorrow. Once we’re loaded up and, on the water, a quick change of plans is implemented on the fly. We’ll head out today. So, it’s day one all over again, only going forward in reverse with lighter packs.

The morning starts off rather gray but, yet again, the sun makes another starring role as the day wears on. This will be the last day of my third BWCA trip this year and with nearly 2 weeks' worth of overnights, I didn’t experience even a single drop of rain. The grim circumstance of that reality is that with the planes passing over on a somewhat regular basis is a reliable sign that a fire has broken out somewhere.

It’s a pleasant but mostly unremarkable return to Kawishiwi lake. In the river section we all paddle right up on a lone Canadian goose who isn't troubled by our intrusion in the least. Although Aurora is still wary as she still vividly recalls being attacked by trumpeter swans on Duncan Lake a couple years ago. All the sites are taken on both Kawasachong & Square as we pass through those respective lakes so, I take that as a sign we chose the right course of action today. The Pagami Creek fire line is highlighted by a stark contrast in the horizon on the distant shores of Square Lake. Not having taken one all day, a short rest stop is in order shortly after arriving on Kawishiwi Lake. From there we do battle with the wind one last time before arriving at the landing which is buzzing with activity.

Aurora & Blake note that the kiosk has a notice of a fire ban put into effect a couple days prior. I explain that we are not culpable because we didn’t get word until today. We get everything loaded up and motor to the Trestle Inn for hot eats & cool drinks.

After eating, we have a little more excitement as Joel’s flashes me (from behind) with his headlights. It appears one of his tires has sprung a leak but, since we are only a few miles from Finland, we are able to limp it into town to change it.

If the fish were biting as voraciously as the mosquitos, this would've been a trip for the ages! A good number of fish were caught but, we never really got into them the way I was hoping. Still, Blake said he had a good time and would like to go again someday and, ultimately, that's the bottom line.

This was also a notable trip for Aurora, in that she's starting to spread her wings venturing out on her first tandem paddle without me and her very first solo. She excelled in both facets and it was exciting for me to see her have the confidence to do so.

It was an after the fact realization; but, looking back, the smokey air really hampered us from fully enjoying ourselves. While I did mention cutting our one daytrip very short, there was a daily feeling of sluggishness throughout the trip for all of us.

Finally, it took me quite a while to finish this trip report. Like I usually do, I had started on it shortly after we'd returned from the trip. But, soon after, it became apparent that my Dad was fading fast. And clearly put this report on the back burner while the cavalcade of friends and relatives came to say their goodbyes; and then, pay their last respects at his funeral. So, this trip will always be remembered as the last one I did while my Father was still alive. I am so grateful for the abundant time I was graced to have with him. And he will always be a guiding presence on my future endeavors - canoe trips or otherwise.