BWCA Entry Point, Route, and Trip Report Blog
July 05 2025
Entry Point 32 - South Kawishiwi River
Number of Permits per Day: 2
Elevation: 1201 feet
Latitude: 47.8419
Longitude: -91.6632
South Kawishiwi River - 32
How to Destroy an Aluminum Canoe
Entry Date:
June 10, 2015
Entry Point:
South Kawishiwi River
Number of Days:
5
Group Size:
4
The Inn
The goal today was to leave the Twin Cities around 6 pm and get up to our motel layover in Babbitt by 10 pm. With excitement, the four of us crammed all of our gear inside the car and we were off! After a quick Chipotle stop, it didn’t take long and we reached our destination for the night: ‘Alder Place: The Inn’ in Babbitt. Why did we stay here? Not sure. But we all got a huge kick out of it. You actually had to move one of the beds in order to open the door. Most definitely a fire hazard, but it felt like a good start to the trip. 
Rookie Mistake
The hilarity continued at our motel when we went to check out. To pay for our night, the front desk employee (who apparently has a room behind the desk) had to be woken up. He also didn’t know the price and had to step out from behind the desk to look at the sign advertising prices to know how much to charge us. Again, a good sign that adventure would be had!
After spending some time getting our packs ready, we drove the short half hour to River Point Resort where Steve got us our permits and prepared our canoes. We especially appreciated the coffee at the front desk since we hadn’t had any yet. In no time, the outfitter was driving us to our entry point just a few minutes away—South Kawishiwi River. Since River Point is on the Kawishiwi, we would just paddle back to the outfitter when it was time to leave.
A rod was certainly longer than I remembered from 8 years ago. About two thirds into the 147-rod portage, I was shocked we weren’t at the end of the trail yet. It was a little muddy and quite downhill, but all-in-all a good introduction to portaging for the rest of the group. We had determined we would single portage on this trip, Tim and I carrying the canoes while Jess and Heidi would each carry a food bag (in addition to our own packs, of course).
We met another group at the Kawishiwi side of the portage just leaving. A gentleman gave us a tip on a good campsite, and like that we were paddling. So beautiful. The other three could now see why I wanted to take them here.
As we paddled through the calm waters, we marveled at the beauty of nature and reveled in the amazing weather that morning.
We stopped for a needed lunch break at the north end of the bay. We hadn’t had breakfast, so a pot of coffee and some sandwiches were in order. Heidi decided to try her hand at fishing. Unfortunately, before long she hit a snag and Tim came to the rescue to unsnag the lure from lake bottom.
We continued on, enjoying the perfect weather and minimal portaging the Kawishiwi offers. Now I had suggested we shoot for Bald Eagle Lake as the far side of our loop. On the map I saw that the river narrowed and it looked like we could avoid the 122-rod portage into Little Gabbro. Well, as soon as we paddled up to the narrow, we realized that the 'narrow part of the river' was actually a nice long set of rapids, and we were at the bottom. Bushwhacking was briefly considered, as well as backtracking to the correct portage, but since it was already late in the day we settled on just changing our plans.
We paddled a small ways north to the first set of campsites and found the eastern one a suitable home for our first night—complete with welcome wood!
After our dinner of baked potatoes, hot dogs, and corn on the cob, we planned out our remaining route, had some boxed wine, and chatted the night away around the campfire.
First day route: 
I woke up very early - before 5 - and noticed it wasn't raining and things weren't wet. Resisting the urge to get up just then and get on the water before any weather hit, I tried for almost an hour to get a little extra sleep. Some time before 6 M also woke up, and we agreed we might as well get packed up. With everything organized and packed, and without eating any breakfast, we pushed out for the exit at 6:30.
Our trip last year ended with a thunderstorm hitting for the last bit of paddle to the exit point, and so we were prepared for history to repeat itself, with our rain jackets on as we paddled. The sky to the southeast looked ominous, but we were paddling north and the sky to the north looked pretty good; unfortunately, the wind was blowing from the south and we expected the storm to catch us. Just as we approached the first portage to Lake One it started raining, and we assumed we'd be in it. We landed, M took off with the heavy pack and paddles, and I took the light pack and canoe, and we covered the portage. I'd forgotten how wide and flat these two portages are, more like a state park than the wilderness. By the time we reached the end of the first portage the rain had actually stopped, and we realized we'd caught a bit of luck. Short paddle to the second portage, single portage across, and we were on Lake One.
The sun even kind of peeked out of the clouds to the east as we paddled Lake One; the sky to the south continued to be gross, but it was relatively calm and almost pleasant on Lake One. It's been over 15 years since I was on Lake One - I've avoided it because it's so crowded, overused, and not very wilderness (there's even cell phone coverage!) - but one thing I'd forgotten was how incredibly beautiful it is, especially after having spent so much time in the burn zone. The early-morning calm and the surreal lighting from the approaching storm only served to accentuate its beauty, and we were so early that nobody else was on the water so we could almost forget we were surrounded by people.
Another thing I'd forgotten in the 15 years since I was last on Lake One is that it's actually *not* an easy lake to navigate. It's much easier than Insula, but I'd been hyper-vigilant on Insula, while this morning I was thinking about the weather, the exit, the coffee in Ely, the beauty of the lake, in short everything *but* navigating. As we rounded the island where we intended to go north toward the Kawishiwi River path to the exit, I got myself disoriented by 90 degrees but was completely confident I knew where we needed to go - I didn't bother pulling out my compass or a GPS to double check, because I was sure we wanted to go the direction that was really west, toward the Lake One Dam portage, which I thought was north in that moment. M knew I was wrong, and she laid out her case; after some arguing, I pulled out my compass and discovered she was right - she was sure I was trying to get her to do the portages around the dam, but truth by told I was just unusually disoriented. Regardless, her navigation was right, which helped me not be too embarrassed about having myself been wrong.
As we paddled up to the top of Lake One toward the narrow channel that becomes the Kawishiwi and heads toward the exit, three rental canoes full of six guys started paddling out from a site on the east shore toward the exit. They were disorganized, but were paddling efficiently, and moving only a little slower than we were. They stayed right behind us the whole way up, right behind at the hook near the Kawishiwi Lodge. As we turned on the hook we turned toward the storm, and the sky was dark and ominous. We were so close, I hoped we could make it before the storm hit.
There's a place just before the Lake One entry where a bay on the right looks like it might be the landing, but the channel and the path to the entry are actually more to the left. We paddled accordingly, but the three other canoes took off to the right and for just a moment I had a doubt that we were doing it right. Of course, quickly it became clear they'd fallen for the false landing, and once again they came behind us as we rounded the peninsula and turned toward the real landing.
We reached the landing for Lake One at 8, nearly dry and without incident, after a short 4.2 mile paddle. The three other canoes landed just after us, and M commented that she thought it was the guys we'd seen on Hudson Lake, who'd been using their paddles backward. Sure enough, I heard one of them commenting that we were the paddle people, and we talked and laughed about it. They said they'd had a great trip, that they really appreciated knowing how to use their paddles when they crossed Lake Three, and they really liked the experience. I also overheard one of them comment that they "were probably the most inexperienced people on the beach". Mind, it was a crowded landing with a lot of *extremely* rookie people getting ready to enter, and I almost commented that after five days in the wilderness where they'd gotten all the way to Insula and back they certainly knew more than most of the people at the landing, but figured maybe I shouldn't broadcast that to all the people on the landing. Just as our boats were landing there was an older man and his grandson about to head out, and one of the guys from the other group helped them get going. Given the impending weather and their large amount of gear, I was a bit worried about them, but they headed in as I went to get our car.
I pulled the car around, M and I threw our two bags and paddles in the back, we put the canoe on the roof, and we strapped it down. Just as we were climbing in to change our shoes, the sky opened up. Two large groups and their fleets of aluminum canoes had just been dropped off by outfitters, and the guys who'd landed with us were still waiting for their outfitter shuttle. The guys found shelter under the latrine awning, and the groups about to go in stood on the beach and got wet as we waved and started off toward Ely, dry in our car.
As we drove back to Ely the storm got more and more intense, with hail bouncing off our canoe and car for a good five minutes, but then it lessened again just as we got to Ely. We stopped at Front Porch Café for our now-traditional first coffee and pie out of the woods. Not yet even 9 AM, there was a line of regulars there for breakfast but we found a seat and enjoyed our coffee and pie. After breakfast we went to the Elywear store and got M a sweatshirt, spent a while looking around Piragis to wait out another serious bout of blowing rain, then went over to Northern Grounds for a second cup of coffee while the rain continued. A quick stop at Crapola to pick up some granola, and then we were at Ely Steakhouse for an early lunch of Bucky Burgers. The World Cup was on the TV and we learned from the bartender and patrons that soccer would be a better game if the field were a bit smaller - there were a few less players - they had sticks in their hands - and the ball was replaced with a puck. The lounge is always the best place to be, but on a Sunday morning it's especially great.
Thus reintroduced to civilization, we drove home tired and satisfied after seven days, six nights, six sites, and 55 miles east-to-west across the center of the Boundary Waters.
~Two, Lake, One, Lake
We’ve got it all figured out
Saturday was a continuation of the unbelievable weather we had been having. Sunny and 75. The plan today was to grab a campsite close to the edge of the BWCA to make Sunday morning’s paddle as short as possible.
We took down the 90-rod portage like it was nothing and suddenly started to feel like we had this whole ‘Boundary Waters’ thing figured out. So we paused to take some photos! 
We paddled past the campsite we ate lunch on the first day and made our way south down the Kawishiwi. We thought we would check out the small Bruin Lake and its lone campsite. It took us quite a while to find the site. Eventually we figured out the site was up away from the water (unlike most sites). It looked as if it hadn’t been used at all this season as the grass around the fire grate was 6 inches high. We opted not to use this site.
Instead, we took a gamble and went for the southernmost campsite, right across from the entry point we had been at days earlier. Sure enough, it was empty. We arrived at this site quite early in the day and spent the rest of the day fishing, relaxing, and soaking it all in. 
For dinner we had instant mashed potatoes and summer sausage. For some reason, this meal really hit the spot!
That night the stars were incredible. They were so bright and they were reflecting off the glass-like water. Perfect last night in the Boundary Waters! That night we did have some skeeters, but being it was early in the season, this was the first we had really dealt with them.
Third day route: 
~Clear Lake
Shoot! the Rapids!
We set an alarm to get an early start. After somberly packing up, we started making our way back towards the outfitters. Another perfect morning. Fog, sunshine, calm waters; perfect.
Now we knew there were four portages between here and the wider Kawishiwi, where the outfitter was located. We also knew that these portages were to avoid rapids. However, given our success with the rapids a couple days earlier, we decide that portaging seems like a bit of a waste of time.
So, we got to the first set of rapids and successfully shot through them without any hassle. After that point, we also went under a walking bridge—something that took us all aback as we were not used to seeing manmade objects like this.
As we headed towards the second set of rapids, my wife was adamant that we portage. I’m a bit more of a risk taker than she is. This particular section has an island in the middle, so you can choose to take the rapids on the left side or on the right side of the island. The portage trail is along the right shore, but I determine we should go to the left of the island to save time (haha, like 1 minute?). Again, my wife is not for this plan, but decides to go along with it.
Well, as we approach the rapids they look far larger than the previous ones we had been through. We immediately try to get to shore, but the current takes us through the rapids. We get almost all the way through them, when the canoe veers towards a large boulder at the bottom. Boom! We collide head on with the boulder. So far, no harm, but we are now stuck.
The current pushes the back of the canoe forward and now the boulder is contacting the canoe directly in the center of the canoe. The open end of the canoe tips towards the top of the rapids and as the rapids start to fill each end of the canoe, the force of the water bends the canoe around the boulder. It’s all a bit of a blur, but somehow Jess and I are able to grab all of our gear and swim to dry land. Meanwhile, we’re yelling at the other canoe, who was behind us, to get to shore. They also are not able to do, so are forced to shoot the rapids. They, however, are successful.
Now we still have the canoe to deal with. Tim hopped out of the other boat and we both waded into the rapids to try to dislodge the canoe. This was extremely difficult because of the water pressure. Finally, we were able to dislodge it and it floated into the bay. The ladies were able to snap a pic of this... 
But the damage had been done. Huge gashes in the center of the canoe. Since we determined it was not buoyant and that we would not all fit in one canoe, we decided our course of action would be to have two people wait here and the other two go back to the outfitters to retrieve a different canoe. Still not really sure if that was the best course of action, but it was the best we could come up with the time.
Jess and I stayed while Tim and Heidi paddled on. 
Side note: as we were hanging out here we did see another canoe shoot through these rapids, but on the right side of the island instead of the left.
A country song resonated through my head as I waited there on the banks ‘A slammed door and a lesson learned, you gotta love a little crash and burn!’
It took Tim and Heidi a couple hours to get to the outfitters as we had underestimated how far away the outfitter was. Steve at River Point gave Tim and Heidi and pontoon ride back to the first set of rapids to cut down on time. And after about 3 hours of hanging out by the canoe, we finally saw them coming (man, they had to be tired, especially after portaging two canoes on the way back!)
We were overjoyed to see them, and quickly turned around and started back towards the outfitter. We tied the broken canoe behind ours to tow it. 
We thought about just letting the broken canoe float through the rest of the rapids, but didn’t want to deal with the situation that it gets stuck.
We got a lot of looks as we passed by people on the river. My response to each of the them was the same: ‘Don’t shoot the rapids.” Once we did our last portage, we had Steve come back with the pontoon since it was quite a paddle from that point to the outfitter. 
Steve thought this whole ordeal was pretty funny and he informed us we were very lucky we didn’t get hurt. And of course, Steve had the last laugh since I had to buy him a new canoe. I sure was glad I hadn’t rented a Kevlar canoe—that would have dented the pocketbook even more.
We ended up strapping the broken canoe to the top of our car with intentions of making it into bookshelves. We haven’t done that yet, but I am actually wondering if this thing could be fixed by a welder. Perhaps it is too damaged, but it might be worth asking a welder.
We stopped at Adventures in Virginia for some delicious burgers as we sifted through pictures, already excited for our next trip despite the incident that happened on this one.
On the way home, we stopped for some McDonalds soft serve and received more funny looks with the busted canoe strapped atop the car. Got home much later than expected, and with one more (broken) canoe than expected, but we got home safe and sound and had some great memories from a great adventure.
Fourth day route: 
Exact location of wreck: 