Boundary Waters Trip Reports, Blog, BWCA, BWCAW, Quetico Park

BWCA Entry Point, Route, and Trip Report Blog

October 21 2026

Entry Point 55 - Saganaga Lake

Saganaga Lake entry point allows overnight paddle or motor (25 HP max). This entry point is supported by Gunflint Ranger Station near the city of Grand Marais, MN. The distance from ranger station to entry point is 55 miles. No motors (use or possession) west of American Point. Access to Canada (the Crown land and Quetico Park). Large lake with many campsites and easy access. This area was affected by blowdown in 1999.

Number of Permits per Day: 15
Elevation: 1184 feet
Latitude: 48.1716
Longitude: -90.8868
Saganaga Lake - 55

The Next Level-South Arm of Knife Base Camp

by YardstickAngler
Trip Report

Entry Date: June 14, 2026
Entry Point: Saganaga Lake Only
Number of Days: 10
Group Size: 2

Trip Introduction:
This is the account of my fifth trip to the Boundary Waters, and my son Andrew’s second. This was a fishing-centric trip to the South Arm of Knife, an area I’ve always wanted to visit. I heard recently that a writer’s job is to make a coherent whole out of seemingly disparate, random events. While I’m not a writer, I attempt to do that here. It doesn’t make for a short report. But if you read on, you’ll gain insights not only into what we did and where we went, but how we felt in the moment. I hope you enjoy it.

Part 1 of 16


Prologue: Background, Dreaming, and Preparation [paragraph break] Before we had even reached Grand Marais, the maps were out. It was June 14th, 2025. Andrew and I had just completed his first trip to the Boundary Waters, a base camping trip on Grandpa Lake that featured near-constant fishing action for Northern Pike and Smallmouth Bass, campfire sessions that continued late into the evening, and some very agreeable weather. To be clear, we also battled hordes of mosquitoes in our campsite which backed up to a bog, and most days included at least one long, rugged portage. But for us, the challenges paled in comparison to the many high points we experienced on that trip. And so, surrounded in our tiny car by our gear still smelling strongly of campfire smoke, with a 15 hour drive ahead of us that would return us to our normal lives for another 365 days, we began to dream. [paragraph break] Our second trip, like the first, would focus on fishing. With that first trip behind us, we sought out a route that would provide plenty of good fishing with slightly more travel than our first trip had. Now that we had gained some confidence in our fishing setup and abilities, we also wanted to try our luck fishing on some lakes that had some larger fish in them. [paragraph break] On my first ever trip to the Boundary Waters, my paddling partner Shawn and I had planned a loop through the South Arm of Knife Lake, but cut our trip short, base camping on Ester Lake with day trips to fish on nearby Ashdick and Rabbit lakes. While I was disappointed in not reaching South Arm, I gained a great appreciation for the Ester Lake area and vowed to return someday. [paragraph break] Now, staring at the map, all of these factors kept pointing toward the South Arm of Knife once again, a lake I’d heard so many good things about but had never been able to visit. Could this be the year? I realized that an entry on Saganaga would allow for a camp in the Ester Lake area for some fishing before pushing on to the South Arm. We would plan to exit the same way rather than complete a full loop through Seagull, which would allow for more fishing time in an area I was more familiar with if the fishing on the South Arm didn’t meet our expectations. The more we looked at this route, the more options we saw, especially when considering the options available for fishing to the north on Knife Lake, as well as nearby smaller lakes such as Toe, Bonnie, Dix, and Spoon. Considering my affinity for the Ester Lake area, the entry point that made the most sense to me was Saganaga, where I have entered twice before, including last year’s trip with Andrew. There is just something about Saganaga that always draws me back, something that I don’t sense on nearby Sea Gull Lake. It’s a place where you can just breathe in and sense the human history that has occurred there for centuries. When Sag isn’t challenging you with navigating through it’s many large islands, it will suddenly whip up into whitecaps and rollers that will keep you on your toes. But in the moments when your navigation is on point and the weather is amiable, Saganaga is immensely beautiful and enchanting. When deciding whether we should tow across Saganaga or paddle, I favored paddling for the adventure, experience, and chance to keep an open schedule, but wanted to make sure Andrew was on board. When I asked him about it, detailing the challenges Sag might offer us, his response was “I think we should paddle it because I’ve never truly paddled all the way across Sag before. The tow would be nice but at the same time, it feels a little bit like I’m cheating myself out of a valuable experience.” He couldn’t have said it better…barring bad weather on entry day, we would be paddling across mighty Sag. While I had some trepidation about this, I was confident in our ability to handle it and loved Andrew’s sense of adventure. [paragraph break] In December, I called Voyageur Canoe Outfitters to make our bunkhouse and permit reservation…Bill from VCO told us we were the first reservation he had taken for the upcoming paddling season! [paragraph break] When not brainstorming the route, I filled many days and nights of late summer and fall dehydrating tomatoes from our garden as well as whatever produce was in season from the grocery store. Our trip would be 3-4 days longer than last year to allow plenty of time to slow down and fish without traveling too hard, and at times it felt like prepping the meals for this longer footprint was an insurmountable task. Somehow, by late March, all of the dehydrated meals were sealed and ready, freeing me at last to focus on the other gear required. [paragraph break] New gear was added to the pack for this trip was: [paragraph break] Ursack Major 2XL: A longer trip meant needing more food. So we needed another bear bag.

[paragraph break] Pocket Bellows: Added after struggling to start campfires last year with unfavorable winds. [paragraph break] Helinox Table: Our evening meal is a slow paced, leisurely affair in front of the fire, often including 3-4 courses as we reflect on the day and dry out our feet. A table will help keep all the food and cooking gear off of the ground so we aren’t losing it, stooping for it, or tripping over it. [paragraph break] Rod Holders for the Canoe: Replacing holding rods with our legs while trolling. [paragraph break] WarBonnet RidgeRunner Hammock: Replacing my Blackbird hammock. This was for me. As a taller guy, I found it difficult to get comfortable in the Blackbird when not set up perfectly. After trying out Andrew’s RidgeRunner, I knew I needed to invest in one myself. [paragraph break] Tackle: We added over 8 pounds to our tackle for this year’s trip. Given we had never really fished for Lake Trout or Walleye, we needed to add some lures capable of fishing more deeply, including tail dancers, shad dancers, and some deep diving Rapalas. We also added some Z-man swim bait minnows and bolstered our supply of Vibrax spinners, Whopper Ploppers, Little Cleos, and Syclops spoons. While I know we overpacked in terms of tackle, we are still trying to figure out what works best for us in the Boundary Waters, and preferred to keep our options open, even though it meant extra weight and bulk. [paragraph break] Fishing net: Last year, we endured much frustration with hooks tangling in our net, and it was too short for Andrew to be able to turn around from the front seat and help with the few fish I caught. It added another pound or two, but I hoped it would prove worthwhile. [paragraph break] Fun stuff: We added a travel chess board, deck of cards, and hacky sack for slower moments around camp. [paragraph break] I had a twinge of anxiety adding this new gear, but felt strongly that it would all be put to good use. In the past year, Andrew had grown much stronger and would be able to carry more weight on the portages. Would our shoulders be strong enough to bear the burden of more travel and more weight? Soon enough we would know!

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Weight details: Bear bag weights with all food: 60 pounds | New tackle: Added 8.5 pounds | Rod holders: Added 3.5 pounds | Net: Added 2 pounds | Fun stuff: Added 2 pounds |Helinox table: Added 1.5 pounds | Different hammock: Added 8 ounces

 



Part 2 of 16


The Final Countdown [paragraph break] June 10th-11th, 2026 [paragraph break] The days leading up to our departure are frantic ones. I had promised to take all of the boys fishing at some local spots in the canoe in May, my daughter was finishing her track season, and we were going on family vacation just before leaving for the Boundary Waters. At one point, I confide to Andrew that “It feels like I’m packing for three fishing trips at the same time!” To which he responds, “You pretty much are, Dad!” While it’s crazy, I have no regrets, because life is short and the spring fishing window waits for no one. A multitude of home maintenance tasks piles up, and major appliances are dropping like flies, leaving me stressed out and scrambling for replacements. Our entry date marches closer with little to no progress on packing for it. But the fact that we are going at all keeps me marching forward through the storm. [paragraph break] After returning home from vacation, I manage to wrangle a couple hours of Andrew’s time to help me out with the final packing and checking of all the gear that I’d been accumulating, testing, and sorting for seemingly the entire year. I want him to be more involved in the packing process this year anyway, so perhaps being behind on all of it is for the best. When he tries on his clothes for the trip, I’m astonished to see that many of them (which mostly fit a little big last year) are on the small side. But “good enough” is good enough, so we push onward with what he has. I’m sleep deprived and Andrew is in a goofy mood, but, we somehow find a way to make it all come together. I make my opening journal entry at the kitchen table, where I scrawl down several goals for this years’ trip:

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Have fun and continue to foster enthusiasm for wilderness canoe trips.

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Catch the grand slam.

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Catch a Lake Trout.

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Catch a Walleye.

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When I realize none of the barbs of the hooks on our new tackle had been crimped down, I spend a couple hours doing so, then realize I had also intended to file the hooks of our older lures. Would this actually do anything? I don’t know, nor do I really know what I am doing, but I sure don’t want to lose out on a big fish because of a dull hook! With less than 24 hours before our departure in the dead of night, I sit at the kitchen table honing each hook until 5:15 A.M., knowing that any one of these hooks might be tasked with catching the fish of a lifetime. [paragraph break]

With the gear prepped and checked at last, it is time to pack it all up and hope it fits. Andrew watches and laughs as I agonize over minor clothing decisions (do I bring the sun hat? Shorts? Should we find a smaller chess board? Do we have enough snacks for the road?). The best part about final packing decisions is the time pressure forces us to focus, and neutralizes any tendency to procrastinate. The problems are known, and they simply must be taken care of, now. When it comes to making gear decisions, I tend to favor going slightly heavier for more durability and versatility versus lighter gear that doesn’t last as long or fit the mission. This is reflected in our already large canoe, a black lite Northstar Northwind 18. By itself, the canoe weighs 45 pounds. With three medium-heavy action fishing rods, three carbon paddles, our larger net, and our thwart bags strapped into the canoe, I estimate the total weight of the canoe plus gear strapped into it to be 65 pounds. Our gear fits into four packs, of which three are lightly loaded, allowing for less painful portages. That means I will need to carry one of the light packs plus the canoe on my first trip over the portage, which concerns me. Carrying one light pack with the canoe would increase my total carry weight to just under 100 pounds on that trip over the portage. While trying this had failed in the past, it is simply too late to fiddle with changing it much, so I file that away as a problem for the future and shove the packs in the Civic at 4 P.M. I have to pull the packs back out of our car multiple times to double-check certain items or add one more item, and during one such moment, I manage to snap the handle off of one of our fishing reels. Thankfully, I have a backup in the garage and am able to re-rig the rod. I lay down for my pre-drive nap at 6 P.M., the final task necessary to prepare for the 15 hour drive through the night. [paragraph break] As night falls, I rise from my slumber, feeling the same way I do before a challenging long distance race: Eager to start, yet knowing I will have to suffer in the coming hours. With goodbyes said and a photo or two taken, we launch into the night at 10:08 P.M. and head for the interstate. After a year of planning and anticipation, Andrew and I are once again headed north, to the place that fills countless dreams and discussions…to the Boundary Waters.

 



Part 3 of 16


Day 0: Travel Day [paragraph break] June 11th-12th, 2026 [paragraph break] In the day we sweat it out on the streets of a runaway American dream [paragraph break] At night we ride through the mansions of glory in suicide machines

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Sprung from cages out on highway nine

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Chrome wheeled, fuel injected, and steppin’ out over the line

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Oh, baby this town rips the bones from your back,

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It’s a death trap, it’s a suicide rap,

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We gotta get out while we’re young

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’Cause tramps like us, baby we were born to run

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~Bruce Springsteen, “Born to Run”

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In spite of the late hour, striking out on our grand voyage fills us both with an energy that can’t be duplicated in everyday life. I’m surprised and further energized when Andrew’s discussion of his planned fitness routines for summer dovetail into a lengthy discourse on the virtue of discipline. While I know Andrew has grown taller and stronger over the past year, I am taken aback by the maturity of his thoughts as we riff back and forth on routine, discipline, and making right sacrifices in life for the greater good. After a few hours, the early excitement wears off and Andrew finally drops off to sleep just past midnight.

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Left alone with my thoughts and the sound of the road, I turn on the audiobook I have for this year’s drive: The classic “Endurance” by Alfred Lansing, about Ernest Shackleton’s incredible Antarctic voyage. When I start to feel sleepy in Iowa, I switch to a few podcasts that also riff on the themes of discipline and routine…It’s amazing how quickly my kids have transitioned from looking to me for inspiration to inspiring me! After those, I listen to my BWCA bird calls sound tracks, hoping that I can finally get a better handle on those warbler calls (spoiler alert: I don’t…maybe studying them when sleep deprived doesn’t work too well!)

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As the sun rises in north central Iowa, I take a call from Shawn, the friend that came with me on my very first trip four years ago. His call is soon followed by another old friend, Mike, a conversation that carries me all the way through Minneapolis. These calls save me during a sleepy time! I am so very thankful for my friends that take the time to catch up and help keep me energized on this drive and all throughout the year!

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Andrew is still dozing off and on, but when he’s awake, we listen to this years “Birdament” on the Tumblehome podcast. After the stunning view of Superior as we roll down the hill into Duluth, we turn on to highway 61 and our energy really begins to flag. While Andrew sleeps, my fatigued mind slips into worry and anxiety about our trip. Andrew’s first trip last year was a resounding success, filled with lots of great fishing, laughter, and campfires where we truly connected with one another in a profound way. How could this year’s trip possibly beat that? What if we don’t catch as many fish? The weather looks like it could be tougher, how will we handle that? What if our increased amount of travel and length of the trip proves to be too much to handle? Every wilderness trip has that moment of angst, where you feel like you’re standing on the edge of a cliff, about to leap into the icy cold depths…except you somehow doubt the water is safe, or if it will even be there to catch you.

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We pass through Grand Marais and arrive at the Hungry Hippie Hostel northeast of town at 1 P.M., so early that we have to ask ourselves “Now what will we do?” The hostel is clean, with a great view, and very comfortable. It will work just fine as a stopover before we head to the end of the Gunflint Trail for a shake out day trip tomorrow. The angst and worries are still there, but we busy ourselves with tidying up the car and prepping our gear for tomorrow’s trip. When that’s done, we head into town for a pack of brats to grill at the hostel, which is a treat compared to the dehydrated meal we were planning on eating. After taking our traditional photo by the Gunflint Trail sign, we take a quick walk around Artist Point in Grand Marais, where we marvel at the clear, aquamarine water of Lake Superior.

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As we return to the hostel, Andrew keeps telling me as he looks out at the chop on Lake Superior, “I think we could paddle out to Five Mile Rock if we had to.” I tell him there is no way on earth I plan to paddle a canoe on Superior in any kind of chop and that I don’t think it would be much fun at all! He is so insistent I start to actually believe he’s not trying to be ridiculous. I tell him that considering the wind forecast for our entry day on Sunday, he’s likely going to be learning a thing or two about paddling in choppy waters this year. After our gourmet supper of three bratwurst apiece plus a couple handfuls of cheez-its, we play a game of chess in our room. In spite of intending to improve at chess for what seems like my whole life (and especially leading up to this trip), I don’t stand a chance against Andrew, even though he just picked up the game this year. I not only get beat, but I’m falling asleep at the board, in spite of the sun beaming through the window at this 6:00 hour. We will portage to Gulf Lake tomorrow at first light in order to allow plenty of fishing time before returning to Grand Marais for Mass tomorrow night, so it’s time for bed anyway. Aside from me talking in my sleep, we both sleep soundly, taking a few hours to disconnect our brains from the uncertainty and fatigue that has assailed them on this day. Tomorrow, we will rise anew.

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Stats—> Miles: 964 | Drive time: 13:15 | Breaks: 1 hour

 



Part 4 of 16


Day 1: Day Trip [paragraph break] Saturday, June 13th, 2026 [paragraph break] We rise as enthusiastically as one possibly can at 2:15 A.M. Moving quietly but with purpose, we dress and soon are in the car headed up toward the Gunflint Trail. As darkness rapidly gives way to twilight on the trail, I feel the tension start to melt away from me for what feels like the first time in a year. To the unfamiliar, a drive up the Gunflint Trail looks like a slightly hillier, bumpier version of a pine-lined corridor, similar to the drive up interstate leading to Duluth. But now, beginning this fifth trip, I know better. I can feel the trepidation melting away, the excitement rising within my soul. I know this place deeply, and sense that I am on the very road that has led me to the kind of outdoor adventures I have dreamt about since my childhood. When Andrew rouses from his sleep near the end of the trail, he picks up on the positive energy as I simply say “It just feels so good to be right here, driving up the Gunflint Trail again.” It feels even better that he, my oldest son, is one of the few people I know that truly understands what I mean.

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We pull into Voyageur Canoe Outfitters and unload our gear as quietly as possible as the sun rises. At 5:15 A.M., we have the canoe in the water to paddle across the Seagull River, and in our excitement, nearly get into the canoe without our paddles! I suppose that's why we do a day trip! Soon we are on the portage to Gulf Lake. While Voyageur has aluminum canoes available for use at Gulf, we want to test our portaging legs and packing today, so we are more ready for our entry day tomorrow. While the length of the portage isn’t officially known, I estimate it to be close to 200 rods, with some mud, overgrowth, and plenty of rough footing along the way. While it isn’t the easiest, such a portage is the perfect test for us today. We even spy multiple lady slippers right on the path and take care not to trample them.

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Gulf Lake greets us with a cool northerly wind and steady rain. It’s one of those days that doesn’t look ideal for fishing at all, but having come this far, we have little choice but to don our rain gear and press on. Even if we don’t catch much, constant movement is the best way to get warmer! We have little trouble finding the short portage to Romance Lake, and are at the landing on the Romance side with our gear at 6:30. We set a goal of leaving Romance no later than 11 A.M. so we can get back to Voyageur with plenty of time to check in to our bunkhouse and make final packing adjustments before heading back to Mass in town. Given the rain and wind, I’m skeptical that we will be fishing here that long!

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Before I can finish configuring the canoe for fishing, Andrew, with his third cast, reels in a beautiful 15” tank of a Smallmouth from shore on a swim bait. All of my skepticism vanishes…this is a better Smallmouth than we were able to catch on our whole trip last year! I hustle through getting the canoe ready and soon we are off to explore this beautiful lake made up of countless bays that add interest and beauty. I am hopeful to catch both Northern and Smallmouth today, so I tie on a Mepps Syclops 2 in Firetiger, but have no luck aside from one smaller bass. I switch to a Perch Deep X-Rap and find one more, but finally start to find the fish with a purple Vibrax spinner. Andrew sticks with his Z-Man swim bait which provides steady action, including one more 15” bass. We even double up on bass once. We also find a way to get into the most horrid tangle I’ve ever witnessed, burning over 20 minutes just to get Andrew’s lure untangled from mine. In spite of this, as well as intermittent rain showers, our spirits are high. There’s a surprising amount of traffic on Romance today, with all three of Voyageur’s canoes out on the water by the time we leave.

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It’s been a great morning, but by 10 A.M. the wind is building, and we’ve had enough fun for one day. As Andrew and I water the bushes in the woods next to the portage landing, an aluminum canoe appears around the corner and begins heading our way. Between the gusty tailwinds they have and my indisposed situation, it seems they are right on top of us in about ten seconds. I hurriedly “recover” just in time and see it’s a couple with 2-3 kids who quickly apologize for how “the wind just blew us right in here.” It’s all Andrew and I can handle to not bust up laughing as I make small talk with one hand holding my pants up. We allow them to pass us on the portage to Gulf so I can put myself back together and eat a snack before making our way back to Voyageur. Whenever the wind blows, he and I both laugh about how fast that canoe was upon us exactly at the worst possible moment.

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We make steady progress on the long portage back to Voyageur, where we check in with Bill and watch the permit video. We both chuckle at several moments during the video that remind us of bloopers and follies we had in the park last year. Now that we are at last here and entering tomorrow, it feels wonderfully comfortable to rekindle these random memories of our misadventures. I ask Bill if he has heard of any bear issues on the South Arm of Knife, and he says he hasn’t. I also ask about the Swamp to Ashdick portage, since we are planning to stay on Ashdick for our first two nights. I know this portage is a notorious one, but both Andrew and I have joked about how we just can’t resist the thought of trying it to see how bad it really is. Bill’s response is about what I expected, saying they don’t really recommend that portage to anyone, nor has he heard a report from anyone that’s been through there in quite some time. He asks someone back at a desk behind him about it, and the response is comical. The man smirks, shakes his head a bit, and echoes Bill’s sentiments that he doesn’t recommend it, especially given the recent rains, but that he would love to hear all about it if we give it a try. We also ask about Rabbit, where I’ve never camped but caught my first ever fish in the park, a Lake Trout, on my first trip. Bill says he recommends it to lots of folks but hasn’t heard a report back from anyone.

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As far as fishing goes, he tells us that Walleye and Smallmouth are starting to warm up, and Northern Pike are just a little behind them as far as action goes. He also adds that just last week, people reported catching Lake Trout on topwater lures, which is exciting news! While the main goal for our trip is to enjoy our time together, our “GREAT BIG GOAL” is to catch the grand slam. If we can’t do that, we’d both love to catch either a Walleye or a Lake Trout, alongside the Northerns and Smallies that we are confident we’ll catch. I purchase two more tail dancers and a deck of cards, then we head to the bunkhouse to organize our gear and make sure everything is in order for our paddle out at first light on Saganaga tomorrow.

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When we enter the bunkhouse, Andrew comically dives through the front door, hurriedly shuts it behind him, then frantically closes all the windows. I only wonder for a moment what’s gotten into him, when I remember our hilarious and terrible bunkhouse experience last year, when the mosquitoes infiltrated our sleeping quarters as we went in and out of the door cooking meals and sorting gear. The goal is to sleep much better this year with no mosquitoes! As I shuttle loads of random small items back to the car and prep tomorrow’s meals in the thermoses, Andrew takes a long nap, and soon it’s time to head to Mass at St. John’s. I remember that I have the audiobook “Unbroken” by Laura Hillenbrand on my phone and regret not listening to it more with Andrew on the drive up, but we start it on the way back into town and he loves it! This should be great to listen to during the long drive home as well. [paragraph break]

After Mass, we make our final phone calls home and check the weather one final time on my phone, since the weather radio wasn’t working at Voyageur for some reason (I later find out the Gunflint weather broadcasting station is out of service). It looks like the winds will blow steady at 15 mph all day tomorrow, but Bill did say he thought tomorrow would be significantly better for paddling across Sag than today was. Morning still looks like the best time to be out there, but I know it’s going to take a strong effort all the way to the Sag narrows tomorrow. While Ashdick has been on our minds for steady bass and pike action all year long, I tell Andrew that I am seriously thinking about trying for a camp on Rabbit for our first two nights to take a crack at those Lake Trout, figuring it’s the best chance we’ll have. I tell him that I remember the sites there looking inviting, and soon we both agree that Rabbit will be our primary target for tomorrow.

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After our final phone call back home, we leave Grand Marais, open up thermoses of chili, and listen to “Unbroken” all the way back to Voyageur. After the last of the tiniest details of packing are complete, we lay down and listen to the closing minutes of the Knicks and Spurs in the NBA Finals. The Knicks close out the series in game 5, and then it’s lights out on this most anticipated of nights. Tomorrow we enter the wilderness.

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Stats—> Portages: 4 | Portage rods: 410 | Travel time: 3:00| Fishing time: 3:30 | Fish caught: 12 smallmouth | Top lures: Z-Man 3” Minnowz Swim Bait (The Deal)-5 bass, Vibrax 3 purple/silver-5 bass) | Lakes: Seagull River, Gulf, Romance

 



Part 5 of 16


Day 2: Psychos on Saganaga [paragraph break] Sunday, June 14th, 2026 [paragraph break] We get to sleep in until 2:45 this morning, and have a goal of paddling out at 4:00. At 4:12, we first dip our paddles into the water and cross the wilderness boundary just a little after 4:15. While the winds aren’t howling by any means, I can hear it blowing through the trees and sense that we are in for a long, tough paddle. If the wind was forecast to be above 20 mph, I planned to schedule a tow for our departure. But the forecast has held steady at 15 mph for several days now, so we are going to paddle it. While I know Saganaga is a formidable lake to cross, especially with a young teen in the bow, I am confident that we are up to the challenge and will make the right call if the waves prove to be too much for us to handle.

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Reluctantly crouched at the starting line

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Engines pumping and thumping in time

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~Cake, “The Distance”

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I keep my thoughts on the challenge ahead to myself, knowing that we will both soon see very clearly the beautiful struggle that lies ahead of us. In the past, these opening minutes of a trip have felt like playing the quiet opening notes of a meticulously practiced concert piece, the peaceful beginnings of what will become a magnificent symphony of incredible music. Those feelings are not present today. Once again, I feel like we are both at the starting line of a very difficult race, one that will demand the utmost from us both physically and mentally, leaving us to question our motives for racing at all, or even our very existence. Mistakes will be made, and we will be buffeted not only by the harsh, unfeeling northwest wind, but by doubt itself. As athletes, Andrew and I are familiar with this feeling. Even when the end result isn’t a win, an experienced athlete knows deep inside that they gave it their all and are are proud of themselves for being brave and for laying it all on the line.

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We paddle up the corridor, taking note of the campsites and bays on the map together as we pass, as well as our first Bald Eagle sighting of the trip. Initially we are slightly confused by the sight of Clark Island dead ahead of us, but we soon figure it out and are off and running. Our progress to the northwest is steady and confident, and the modest chop on the water provides little resistance. While our initial plan was to bypass Munker Narrows in favor of a less direct, sheltered route along the western shoreline, Andrew suggests that he’d like to head for the narrows to just take a look. While I’m pessimistic this will work, I decide there’s nothing wrong with checking it out. Soon enough I see the familiar, menacing sight of perfectly spaced whitecaps marching on the horizon, and let out an audible “Oof!” Andrew asks what I’m reacting to, and I simply point dead ahead past the narrows and say, “Big f—-ing WAVES!” Never one to back down from a challenge, Andrew is still comfortable with pressing on as I share a story or two from my very wet, cold, windy, wave-ridden solo trip down the Frost River two years ago, and talk about how when the whitecaps are really rolling, they resemble uniform windrows of alfalfa hay that we see back home in Kansas.

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They deftly maneuver and muscle for rank

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Fuel burning fast on an empty tank

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Reckless and wild, they pour through the turns

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Their prowess is potent and secretly stern

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~Cake, “The Distance”

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By the time we reach Munker Narrows, story time is over, and after five or so minutes of paddling as hard as we can, it’s clear we aren’t making any forward progress into the headwind as the canoe bucks up and over the parade of whitecaps. As soon as I call out to turn around to paddle along the southern shore of Long Island, Andrew responds with some quick c-strokes to make the turn. After about a minute of mild surfing during which I implore Andrew to keep on paddling hard, we gain the leeward side of Long Island and paddle to the southwest, intending to pass through the channel north of Gold Island, then south of Englishman Island before making our turn to the north to paddle up American Point. We allow our arms and minds a brief respite as I explain to him the plan, as well as our “outs” if the whitecaps are too much for us.

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When we round the southern end of Englishman, there are whitecaps, but they don’t look too intimidating, and we feel safe plowing directly into them as we plod our way up the shoreline of American Point. I optimistically muse that if the waves are mostly from the north here, then we shouldn’t have much headwind to battle after rounding American Point and turning southwest. What I don’t mention is how dangerous whitecaps coming from the side are, nor how deceptively long the paddle is from American Point to Sag Narrows. Once we gain the point, we will come face to face with our fate. If it’s too rough, there are multiple campsites we can take shelter at.

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All of these thoughts are premature. I see a distinctive jack pine on the end of a small point not far ahead and focus on making forward progress toward it. After ten minutes, it seems we’ve barely moved. It takes a full twenty minutes to make it to the jack pine, and I open up to Andrew for the first time today that this is really tough! But while our progress is slow, it remains steady and safe, so we dig deep and plod on. Rounding American Point is a moment we’ve been imagining all year, but once we do, there’s no time to celebrate or relax, because of the long crosswind paddle we now face. Both he and I take aim at the island in the distance that is in line with the opening to Cache Bay, and continue steadily paddling. We both know that once we make it past the island, the worst of the waves should be behind us. I keep a watchful eye on the waves approaching from the right and call out to Andrew when the larger ones approach. He does a marvelous job of keeping his paddle in the water and staying balanced the whole way. We come to call this island “Deception Island” because it seems so close to the point, but it takes forever to reach. Once we pass it, there are a few more significant waves to deal with, but soon enough we pass through the first narrows and at last feel like we can breathe easy. Both of us are beyond grateful to have that slog behind us, and I am thankful we didn’t get lost while battling the tempest!

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My thankfulness soon turns to humility when I realize we have paddled too far south into a bay and need to backtrack a bit. It’s been a few years since I’ve paddled through Sag Narrows, and I didn’t remember it being too tricky to find my way then, but it is a little tricky today! As we paddle through the narrows, I allow myself to fully relax for the first time all day. We see our first canoe of the day here, and they ask how Sag is. I don’t mince words in telling them it’s pretty rough out there, and that we’ve been paddling for five hours straight this morning to make it this far!

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At the lift over into Swamp, we see several canoes and they give us a heads up that our slog isn’t over yet, because the mud on the Monument Portage is horrible. At this point, a portage of any sort sounds nice after so much time paddling hard in the canoe! The scouting report soon proves true. After using the dock to the maximum extent possible, we do our best to slog through the mud hole that guards the “real” landing of the portage. Andrew sinks deep enough to lose a shoe, which he is able to retrieve, and I sink knee deep with the canoe on my shoulders, which livens up this first “real” portage right away. I can only chuckle in response as I realize I’m nearly totally powerless to do much about it. Somehow I get the canoe off my shoulders and Andrew helps drag it away as I extract myself from the quagmire. Considering the start as well as our morning spent out in the gale, the rest of the portage is a non-event, albeit difficult enough. We snap photos by the large monument near the west end, then move our gear off to the side of the landing on Ottertrack to dig into our thermoses of breakfast at long last. Sitting on a tree root, the clutter of my life distilled down to four small packs and a canoe, eating some lukewarm oatmeal from a thermos, overlooking Mud Bay in a cloud of mosquitoes…now THIS is living! As the sun finally makes its first appearance of our trip, both of us are elated to be at this point, no matter how long it has taken us!

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After breakfast, we have little trouble finding the portage to Ester, where we strip off our baselayers and a few other layers of clothes we needed for our crossing of Sag. The portage is uneventful, though I discover, as I expected, that I am unable to carry one of the light packs plus the canoe simultaneously. From this point onward, I carry the canoe first, then return to carry two packs at once for the second trip and am much happier. I’ve been hyping up the beauty of Ester Lake to Andrew for quite some time now, and it doesn’t disappoint. Most of the sites are vacant as we paddle through, and even though it’s not a small lake, the wind doesn’t give us any trouble at all here. Before long, we reach the short portage to Rabbit, which we quickly dispatch. At the landing, we can see that our targeted campsite is empty and will only require a short paddle across “afternoon standard” whitecaps.

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We reach the landing of site #331 around 2:30 P.M., making for over 10 total hours spent traveling today. This is far longer than I anticipated! But we are here, and have this beautiful lake to ourselves! After a quick lunch from the thermoses, we methodically chug through setting up camp. I am surprised to hear Andrew say that he hasn’t set up his hammock since our trip to Grandpa Lake last year, so we set them up together with little trouble. The same can’t be said for our tarp. The fire grate sits extremely near to the lake, which sounds great in theory, but makes it nearly impossible to string a tarp over the kitchen area. After 45 minutes of struggling with the tarp, we call it quits. It’s always surprising how long it takes to set up camp properly with water, hammocks, chopped firewood, and other necessary comforts. After this struggle, I am beyond antsy to hit the lake for our first try at catching a Lake Trout at 7 P.M. We tie on a Little Cleo and a deep tail dancer, but have zero bites. While this is disappointing, we know that tomorrow is another day, and are happy to return to our site to enjoy supper and this gorgeous, calm evening on Rabbit.

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The only thing Andrew and I both love more than anything (well, maybe anything except fishing) is sitting by the campfire. Even if we didn’t love it, a fire is mandatory tonight, because the mosquitoes are positively atrocious here! Supper is a voyageur’s feast of fried summer sausage + cheese with hot sauce and cheez-it “dust,” followed by two strip steaks cooked on the fire grate with a side of dehydrated hashbrowns. This meal was a late addition to the pack this year, but both the steaks and hashbrowns were a big hit, and will be coming along on future trips! I divided two cartons of Hungry Jack hashbrowns into six servings. Two servings fit perfectly in our fry bake pan, so we plan to have hashbrowns three times during our trip. With full bellies and bare feet drying by the hot fire, with the mosquitoes in check, Andrew and I allow ourselves to feel optimistic about catching a Lake Trout here tomorrow. Our stated plan is to “fish like hell” in the bays and shallower areas, certain that they will yield to our persistence. We are comforted to hear the computerized voice from the weather radio for the first time all trip, advising us of lighter winds and moderate temperatures in the days to come, with chances of rain showers most afternoons. [paragraph break] In this moment, all is right with the world again, for what feels like the first time since our last trip. Yes, we have yet to find much fishing success. Yes, we have many days ahead, and nothing is certain except that there will be more challenges to overcome. But I feel with absolute certainty that the wilderness is once again working its magic on us, demanding that we live with their minds deeply anchored in the present moment, while keeping an eye turned to the future, and completely casting off any concerns or regrets of the past. For this moment, and for the next eight days, this is the real world..pure, visceral, and unfiltered. We extinguish the fire, pray for God’s continued favor on us and our loved ones, for good fishing, and a good rest. What more could one possibly want? [paragraph break] Stats—> Portages: 4 | Portage rods: 180 | Paddle distance: 13.8 miles | Travel time: 10:15 | Fishing time: 1:30 | Fish caught: 0 | Lakes: Seagull River, Saganaga, Swamp, Ottertrack, Ester, Rabbit

 



Part 6 of 16


Day 3: The World’s Most Disappointed Man [paragraph break] Monday, June 15th, 2026 [paragraph break] I awake to a bright and beautiful morning without an alarm at 6 A.M. Somehow, even when I stay up late and wear my eye mask to bed, my body knows when it’s time to get up and start the day so we can get out fishing soon. After yesterday’s marathon paddle and late night, I let Andrew sleep as long as he wants, which turns out to be until 7:45. Before he wakes, I busy myself with splitting firewood, organizing, and getting the canoe and rods ready for fishing. After breakfast, we tie on our lures and head out determined to find that incredible fish of the northwoods, the Lake Trout. We troll much of the shoreline of the lake, catching nothing more than an occasional snag. But after an hour, Andrew has a fish on the line on his tail dancer! Here comes supper! He starts reeling it in, then it gets off! Oh no! No wait! It’s still on! He’s got him! He looks down into the water to catch his first glimpse of the fish and sees…”It’s a Smallie.” His tone says it all. He is completely deflated, which is surprising, considering it’s our first fish of the trip caught inside the park.

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Nothing can dampen my spirits though. I’m truly happy that we caught something after so much trolling, though I share in the disappointment Andrew feels. Soon enough though I’m openly laughing at how he sounded so dejected, especially after catching a fish! I guess Andrew’s fishing abilities and standards are just higher than mine. We try for 30 more minutes with nary a bite. It’s been a fine morning on the water but both of us are about to burst. After about three minutes of discussion, we decide to abandon our plan of fishing Rabbit all day and make a run for Ashdick. Initially we had said we absolutely would NOT do this due to the time and energy required to portage, but we just can’t resist the chance to try to find some fish we can actually catch.

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It takes us 35 minutes to paddle back to camp, gather our clothing and lunches into a day pack, and launch again. We push hard across the portage to Ester, then paddle straight across the deserted lake to the Ashdick portage. I haven’t been on this portage since my first trip, and it’s certainly more overgrown and rocky than I remembered. But nothing can stop us now. We have our lines in the water at 11:23, 45 minutes from the time we left our camp on Rabbit. Not too bad!

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Right away I have a huge bite on my #3 Perch Vibrax spinner, but lose the fish. On the more mucky south end of the lake, we catch a smallmouth, a largemouth, and a pike, and even double up once. All are nice healthy fish, with the largemouth noted as a particularly fat one. Somehow along the way as we troll I manage to drop my paddle in the water, then it drifts just out of arm’s reach, leaving me powerless to get it. Andrew paddles a bit from the bow, but can’t get much steering authority up there. He passes the paddle back to me, and I also can’t get the boat turned the way it needs to go in the modest but increasing wind. Finally I give up and unstrap the spare paddle from the middle of the canoe, and we are able to retrieve the paddle. It’s surprising how important it is to have TWO GOOD PADDLES in the water if you want to have any semblance of control! I’ve always brought a spare paddle, but this incident really drove home to me the importance of bringing it!

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Andrew catches a nice 14” Smallie on his swimbait, and we decide to keep it. We plan to filet it at one of the two vacant sites on the lake to take back with us to Rabbit. As I’m putting it on the stringer, I lose grip and it plops into the water and swims away! Now it’s my turn to feel the depths of despair that only a pesky Smallmouth can cause! Eager for some fried fish tonight, I can only silently hang my head in response. But I’m snapped out of my moping when Andrew catches another fish on the very next cast before I even realize he had casted out again! And this one is even better, a solid 15” fish! I don’t flub the stringer job this time and we head to site #333 for lunch and fish cleaning. After cleaning the fish and eating a thermos lunch, we explore the site. We rate it at 3 stars. It’s elevated, but the climb up to camp from the landing is an awkward one. The fire grate has a nice view but is a “sidesaddle” fire pit right next to a steep incline which makes for an oddly cramped kitchen area. The tent pads are decent overall, and we know if we get here with 2-3 hammocks we can make it work.

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Thunder rumbles to the north, but I dismiss it, thinking I am hearing things. But Andrew hears it, and when we look up, there are dark clouds gathering. I tell him it looks like it will move north of us, and even take a little time to tie on a different colored swim bait to see if I can catch a nice Smallmouth in here like Andrew already has. However, by the time we have the canoe fully ready to leave the landing, the skies are looking ominous and the thunder is increasing. With our water bottles completely empty, we take a minute to pump two full bottles, then decide to make a hard push directly for the portage to Ester, abandoning fishing for the rest of the day. While it wouldn’t be the worst thing, neither of us wants to get waylaid by the storm away from camp! The gusts kick up about halfway across the lake, occasionally whipping the surface of the water into miniature waterspouts. We make great progress through the chaotic scene though, and reach the landing quickly. From the portage onward, the weather is much improved, and by the time we reach camp, the sun is shining and the winds are calm. It’s all for the best I suppose. Even though I hate to cut fishing short, there’s plenty of work to accomplish around camp in order to be ready for our early departure tomorrow morning to the South Arm of Knife.

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Tonight’s meal is a new one, rehydrated taco meat in the skillet with various vegetables and peppers, supplemented by the Smallmouth filets from Ashdick. This new meal also scores high marks from both of us. We listen to the weather report while taking in the stunning view on our private lake, and review the map to discuss which campsites we will shoot for on the South Arm of Knife. Our target is the central part of the lake, which will position us well for the areas of the lake we are most intrigued by. With a goal of leaving the landing at 6 A.M., we turn in early and sleep well. [paragraph break] Stats—> Portages: 4 | Portage rods: 122 | Paddle distance: 5 miles | Travel time: 2 hours | Fishing time: 2:45 | Fish caught: 10 (7 SB, 1 LB, 1 NP) | Top lures: Z-Man 3” swim bait (The Deal), Vibrax 3 Perch/Gold | Lakes: Rabbit, Ester, Ashdick

 



Part 7 of 16


Day 4: The South Arm [paragraph break] Tuesday, June 16th, 2026 [paragraph break] Even though camp is well orgainzed, it still takes nearly two hours from wake up until we paddle away from the landing at 6:26 A.M. While we loved our time on Rabbit, the air is filled with a special sense of anticipation today. I have been talking about and dreaming of the South Arm for years, well before I even embarked on my first Boundary Waters trip. Since “planting our flag” on the South Arm as our base camp destination for this year, Andrew and I have been poring over the maps and campsites, embedding every detail of the South Arm into our brains. Last year, we never moved until the day we left. Though our travel today is short, we know it will be a tougher day since we have never torn down and set up another camp on the same day before.

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The familiar portage to Ester is quickly dispatched, and with the bugs continuing to assault us at a Biblical level, we elect to eat our breakfast in the canoe while floating in Ester’s tranquil northwest bay. Once done, we at last set a course and our minds to the destination of the South Arm of Knife. Once we squeeze through the inlet that separates Ester from Hanson, we are both covering new water for the first time. While Hanson itself doesn’t blow us away with its beauty, Andrew is intrigued by the short, narrow channel between the two lakes, which prompts more discussion on how I can’t wait to take him down some fun Boundary Waters rivers and creeks on a future trip. While we won’t be doing the Frost or Louse Rivers next year, the seed has been planted!

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Our notes are filled with praise for the beauty of the Hanson to South Arm Knife portage, so we are eager to get started. I am trying to find ways to distract my mind and calculate how long a portage is, so I count my steps while carrying our canoe and determine that on a portage with good footing and modest up and down like this one, it’s about six steps per rod. This truly is a beautiful walk through the woods, reminiscent of some of the hiking trails we have walked in Acadia National Park in Maine. When we return for the second load, we take a few minutes to soak in the idyllic nature of this incredibly beautiful spot. The waterfall is powerful, yet intimate. It is sprawling, but not frenetic. The fallen cedars across the creek lend an ancient feel to the scene, as do the gigantic cedars standing right next to the creek. The mosquito onslaught is even lessened somewhat here, allowing us to fully enjoy the moment. Once the second load is across, we load up with an energy that can only come from reaching the lake that has been the focal point of our planning for an entire year, a lake I’ve been dreaming about since before I even wetted a paddle in the Boundary Waters.

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It’s 9:20 A.M., the paddling conditions are immaculate, and both of us are enraptured by the beauty of Knife. If I were to create the perfect Boundary Waters lake in my mind, it would look just like this. Crystal clear water. Interesting, meandering shorelines full of hideaway bays, and plenty of islands to explore. Towering cliffs, sometimes sheer and exposed, and other times, covered with leaning cedars, with just enough sentinel white pines thrown into the mix. More than all of this, I am intrigued by the fishing prospects here. We paddle the eastern end of the lake in complete solitude and often in complete silence, until reverie overtakes us and we whisper an exclamation to one another about how surreal the beauty is here.

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Once we pass through the eastern channel and turn to the west though, the mood changes, as I had expected. When base camping last year, we only had one tense moment of “Will we be able to find a campsite we like?” This year, with four camps planned, there will be more moments of suspenseful angst as we search for open campsites. The tension is especially high for this site, where we plan to spend multiple nights. We both knew this feeling was coming, but are powerless to stop it. Channeling this tension, we dig our paddles deeper into the water and start making predictions on how long it will take us to reach an island ahead to keep our minds occupied. We have plenty of sites ahead in a great location on Knife, but have no idea what to expect in terms of how busy the lake will be, especially since I have never been into the Boundary Waters in mid-June. The first site, #1430, is occupied (we later visit this site when vacant and don’t find it to our liking). We round a point and spy a “peekaboo” landing at site #1431 that appeared to be open. We check out site #1433 and it is occupied, and so we turn around and paddle hard back to the open landing at site 1431. We make landfall, and find the site open at 11:06. This is in a great location for where we are planning to fish for the next week, and for the next few days, this is our land!

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Our first walkthrough of this site leaves us feeling very excited for our stay. Trails abound, including a steep path to the top of a gorgeous bluff that provides a panoramic overview of the lake. The hammocking options in this site are limitless, and the fire grate and kitchen area is very open and should allow for easy hanging of the tarp. The only minor deduction is for a pair of boxer briefs that are hanging from a tree branch near one of the tent pads, but this only adds more levity to an already happy situation. Speaking of levity and goofiness, after a quick lunch, we begin setting up the tarp over the kitchen area. I will readily admit to not being the most creative person, and that is doubly true when it comes to setting up a tarp, a task which is always variable depending on the individual campsite. The afternoon winds have picked up, and the trees are far apart here, so for quite some time, it appears Andrew and I are flying some sort of strange kite from our site.

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We try (and fail multiple times) to splice together multiple lines for most tie out points. Andrew is certain that my attempts will fail as they did on Rabbit, but is in such a goofy mood, he isn’t bothered in the least. In fact, he spontaneously breaks into song, poorly singing some new Eminem song I’ve never heard, and I just can’t help but explode in laughter. Somehow we find a way to rein in our goofiness long enough to complete a very respectable tarp set up over the kitchen area, another step to turning this little corner of the earth into our home for the next few days. While eating lunch, we take notice of a squirrel that also resides here inside a tree. The squirrel is continually darting in and out of the tree trunk, and during a vacant time, we walk over and peer inside, and discover multiple baby squirrels inside. A very nice touch to an already great spot!

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After setting up hammocks near each other with a marvelously connected “tarp hallway” between the two, we paddle out to gather water. One of my goals this year is to have Andrew paddle more from the stern so he can learn the art of steering a canoe and leading navigation. His first try at doing this is when gathering water, and we both find this to work terrifically, since he can work at turning the canoe around while I’m dipping for water up front. Now, all that’s left to do is gather firewood. Though we are tired and eager to try some evening fishing, we both cherish our moments by the fire in the evenings. So, back into the canoe we go, battling a standard dose of afternoon chop, but eager to put the finishing touches on our campsite with a large pile of dry, split cedar. Strangely enough, we not only have a difficult time finding a random place to land the canoe, but once we do, we find ourselves in a seemingly endless tight cluster of younger balsam trees. I wade through a constant barrage of limbs poking out at eye level looking for just one single fallen, dry tree of any kind that we can begin processing with our saws, but come up with little to nothing. We try another spot, and have the same results. Then another. The goofiness at camp is a distant memory at this point. We are both hot, tired, and frustrated with our inability to find suitable firewood, something that’s never been a problem before for us. Finally we find a spot that has a few “borderline” dry, non-punky wood and declare it good enough. After an hour or so of sawing and swatting mosquitoes, we paddle back to camp. As we leave shore, we are stunned and embarrassed to find we had done all of that work to gather wood quite near to the back of another occupied campsite…I have never been so vexed by hunting for firewood!

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Even though we got here early in the day, the sun is now slowly setting in the west, and the winds have calmed slightly. I get that familiar antsy feeling inside me that says “We need to get out fishing…now!” We check our fishing notes and plan to target a small bay nearby for Smallmouth and Walleye. Andrew ties on a plastic swim bait, and at his urging, I try something crazy, tying on a large new Rapala we just couldn’t resist buying for this trip. It’s in an odd color called “Walleye Wizard,” and now the time has come to see if it can help us catch our first-ever Walleye. Down at the landing, I load our tackle, water bottles, poles, net, and paddles, but the stringer is nowhere to be found. After several minutes of searching for it, I conclude that somehow it must’ve been lost along the way…most likely on Ashdick yesterday. I rig up a length of paracord to the rear thwart, then reference my knot cards to learn how to tie a bowline on a bight. It’s not perfect by any means, and tying a knot with a rope carefully threaded through the mouth of a live fish is sure to be a rodeo, but that’s wilderness fishing! At long last, with my haphazard stringer, we push off from shore to fish the South Arm of Knife Lake, something I have dreamt about for untold years.

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Andrew quickly hooks into an average Smallmouth, then I catch a perfect eating sized Walleye on my Rapala! Both of us are stunned as Andrew nets this beautiful fish, and we are beside ourselves with anticipation for tonight’s supper by the fire, where we will at last find out for ourselves if fried Walleye truly lives up to the hype! After a snag or two, we try a few more trolling passes around the bay, but the action is slow. We call it a night pretty quickly so we can get back to camp and get our fish fry started.

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Once back at the landing, a flood of tasks inundates me. It’s 8:45 P.M. The canoe must be secured, as well as all our fishing equipment. I need to split a minimal amount of firewood to get us through tonight, a job I am hesitant to let Andrew accomplish on his own yet. Meals must be readied in the thermoses for tomorrow’s breakfast and lunch, tonight’s supper and dessert must be cooked, a fire must be started, and I have a fish to clean. The sun is going down and the mosquitoes are positively atrocious, necessitating that I clean the fish in my head net under the light of my headlamp. There are times in every trip to the Boundary Waters when it all seems too much. This is one of those times.

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Perhaps it is my frantic swatting at the mosquitoes or the occasional blue streak of vocal frustration that I can’t help but vocalize, but Andrew sees my frustration and takes the initiative to help. Though he’s never run the stove on his own before, he asks if he can work on getting our meals prepared for tomorrow. After a brief refresher on what to do and what not to do, he is off and running while I return to the filet rock down by the landing to do battle with the mosquitoes and this beautiful Walleye.

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Andrew nearly singes his eyebrows off when lighting the stove, but otherwise does a great job getting the kitchen chores started…This is a huge help! Once the fish is cleaned, I split the wood and work on getting the fire going to tamp down the onslaught of mosquitoes. When it’s time to fry the fish, I drop the little nut that holds the handle on our skillet lid, and of course can’t find it. While this is less of an issue than a missing stringer, I still have to pause and tell myself that it doesn’t really matter in the least…we are on Knife Lake eating fresh fried Walleye after all! And what a treat that first Walleye is. We both wholeheartedly agree that Walleye is easier to clean and tastes better than Smallmouth or Pike, and I finally allow myself to relax and enjoy the reward of sitting by the campfire with Andrew after this wonderful day. By the time we clean up, secure the bear bags, and organize camp, it is midnight. Just before diving into our hammocks to escape the mosquitoes, we hear wolves howling. We are here and we can’t wait to get after the fish again tomorrow! [paragraph break] Stats—> Portages: 2 | Portage rods: 120 | Paddle distance: 6.7 miles | Travel time: 4:40 | Fishing time: 1:00 | Fish caught: 2 (1 SB, 1 W) | Lakes: Rabbit, Ester, Hanson, South Arm Knife

 



Part 8 of 16


Day 5: Where the Magic Happens [paragraph break] Wednesday, June 17th, 2026 [paragraph break] In spite of the late bedtime, I am wide awake at 6 A.M. I let Andrew sleep in while I thrash through the thick tangle of brush and balsam sticks near our site to find suitable firewood. After splitting up a sizable pile and prepping the canoe for fishing, I wake Andrew up, and we eat breakfast while planning where we will be fishing today. I try to plug my phone into the weather radio which is my backup battery for this trip, but find that it isn’t powerful enough to charge it. This isn’t a big deal, but my phone is the only camera we have with us out here, and with its battery already at 46%, I will have to avoid taking extra photos for the rest of this trip to save battery. With light winds in store for today, we should be able to cover plenty of water. After tending to the fishing poles, we head down to the landing where we witness a white and red floatplane land and taxi up to the site west of us where we were foolishly gathering firewood last night. After a few minutes, we see the plane take off, making for an eventful start to the morning. [paragraph break] At last we depart the landing at 10:35, and a steady rain starts to fall ten minutes later. With the rain comes a persistent chill in the air, and my sunny optimism for a successful day of fishing fades to match the featureless slate gray sky overhead. The lake is devoid of canoe traffic, and I can’t help but connect these conditions to other similar days I’ve had in the park, days that finished with empty stringers, icy hands, and a dampened spirit. [paragraph break] I’m snapped out of my negative stupor by the sight of Andrew’s rod doubling over in the bow, and shout “Fish on!” As I toss the anchor bag overboard, reel in my line, and snatch the net. It’s a gorgeous, quality Smallmouth for Andrew (we’ve decided that 15” qualifies as a quality Smallmouth on this trip), which we release. My optimism starts to glimmer again. Soon enough his rod violently bends again, and he says it’s another nice fish, which turns out to be a fat 30” Northern Pike, the largest either of us have ever caught. The rain is falling harder now, but nothing can bring us down. In less than 20 minutes on the water, we’ve already caught two wonderful fish! I switch from my Rapala to a swim bait, attempting to show Andrew that I can catch fish too. He boats another decent Smallmouth or two on his chatterbait, I predictably hook into two tiny Smallmouth, and his clinic on how to catch quality fish in the Boundary Waters continues.

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At some point, the rain stops, as does the bite, and we head toward Eddy Falls, along with apparently everyone else on the lake. Rather than visit the falls, we make one unsuccessful trolling pass below the inlet to Knife, then cross over to a nearby bank for a lunch break sitting on logs in the brush.

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It’s been nearly a week since we left home, but as we sit there swatting mosquitoes, taking in the sound of the falls and watching the world go by on this nondescript bank contentedly eating our nondescript meals, I sense for the first time we are hitting our stride. This isn’t a matter of comfort, but of mindset. We know that at any moment these sun-dappled skies will suddenly give way to clouds, rain, and biting wind, but are confident that we will make the best of that moment when it arrives, along with each moment that follows. Our hope for what is to come on our trip feels perfectly balanced with our gratitude for the joys, laughter, and even the suffering we’ve already shared up to this point. When preparing for the “siege” of future challenges of a wilderness trip in the midst of my modern life at home, my mentality is that of any modern man facing a modern problem. In the modern world, even when prepping for a trip to the wilderness, my main concerns are the gear and the time. Namely, how to manage and prepare our equipment, and how to do this quickly so I can get back to the demands modern life has on my time. While this is necessary, it’s bizarre how none of that matters too much once we are truly “out here,” both physically and mentally. The stringer is gone. The food isn’t as tasty as I envisioned when spending days in my kitchen dehydrating it. The fishing has wildly vacillated between slow and terrific. We deal with each moment exactly as it’s been given to us, at times laughing, at times letting out our pent up frustrations, but always enduring, and perpetually grateful for it. Time is no longer an obstacle or a constraint, but purely a gift, in all its glorious imperfection.

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I set aside another modern attitude that has no place in the wilderness, my pride, and ask Andrew what lure from our tackle arsenal I should try this afternoon, since he’s the one catching all the fish so far. As always, he suggests a lure I am not even considering, a Mepps #5 Black Fury inline spinner. While this lure has been in the tackle box on every canoe trip I’ve taken, I’ve rarely fished with it and never once had a bite on it. After telling all of this to Andrew, he gives me an ultimatum: “If you don’t use that lure, I will.” Given his success with the chatterbait this morning, I tell him to keep fishing with what he has so at least one of us will catch something, and I will give the Black Fury a try. We clean up lunch, tie on the lure, and shove off for the next bay to fish.

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We paddle around the corner, the sound of the falls recedes, and we are once again on the troll, silently awaiting the next strike. After several minutes, it seems that moment will never come, but then my rod springs to life. It feels like a decent fish, but nothing too special, perhaps a five pound Northern that seems intent on staying down in the water. However, once I catch a glimpse, I see it’s a gorgeous Walleye! Andrew perfectly nets the fish and we measure it at 21 inches. After some struggle with tying the Walleye on to the rope stringer, we continue down the shoreline. Once again, there is extended silence, and Andrew asks me how far we intend to paddle down this bank. I tell him we won’t be going too much farther, in hopes that we can perhaps find another Walleye. Of course, for every fish I catch, Andrew tends to catch two, and he does just that in short order, boating two healthy 16” Smallmouths. Once again, we are feeling optimistic, and keep trolling down the shoreline.

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We near a shallow rock shelf, and both of us start to paddle away from it, fearing a snag. My rod bends deeply, then bends even more, and stays that way. Unsure if I’ve found a snag with my large treble hook, I pick up the rod and am confident it’s a nice fish, another one that seems intent on staying down deep in the water. The fish goes on an impressive run, and I wonder aloud if we finally have our “Leonardo” on the line that would complete our team grand slam (everyone needs to have special names for fish species, and Leonardo was chosen as our Lake Trout name for this trip). I periodically make progress in reeling in the fish, and each time that progress is met with another long, drag-screaming run. After a few minutes of this behavior, we are both laughing at how ridiculously long this fight is going on. My right wrist is even feeling some strain from tightly holding up the rod against the running of the fish. At least twice, I start to see the fluorocarbon leader clear the water, then lose all progress to yet another deep run.

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At last, Andrew catches his first glimpse of the fish and can barely contain himself. “Dad, it’s a MONSTER Pike!!!” He exclaims. Shortly thereafter, I also see the fish and have no doubt that this is the largest fish of any species I have ever seen while fishing. When I’ve allowed myself to dream about catching a fish like this, I’ve always imagined it as a tense moment, wondering if we would be able to actually land such a monster. Somehow though, at this moment, I can only laugh. The head of this Pike alone is just impossibly large, and I know that we have a real rodeo ahead of us in order to land this fish. The fish runs deep yet again, and I continue to keep tension and reel it back toward the boat. The fight has gone on for about five minutes at this point, and I can tell the fish is beginning to tire as I reel it in. Once again, we catch sight of the Pike as it languidly floats along the surface of the water next to the canoe four feet away, appearing half as long as the boat. Even though I upgraded our net to a much larger model this year, I know this fish won’t fit inside it easily, and make a vain attempt to reach out and grab it by the gill plate. The canoe briefly dips to the side and I immediately understand why people speak of taking the canoe to shore to land giant pike for fear of capsizing. Andrew considers handing me the net, but quickly puts that idea out of his mind as I bring the fish alongside the boat once more with little effort. Andrew holds the net ready, and the fish swims right in. Well, the first third of it anyway. Once its head hits the back of the net hoop, the tension is off the line, and the barbless hook pops right out of the upper corner of its mouth. ”There goes the line,” I calmly say, perhaps assuming that there was no possible way for this dream to actually come true. But as I say that, I reflexively put down my rod and flop the back two-thirds of the fish into the net with my hands. With the handle extended and the heavy weight of the fish, Andrew is unable to lift the fish into the boat, so I grab the hoop and lift it in.

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As a child in Kansas learning how to fish for bass and catfish under the tutelage of my grandmother, I dreamt of catching just one Northern Pike in my lifetime, because they were the largest fish to catch in a fishing game I played with her. Years ago, I first ventured to north central Minnesota on a work trip over the Fourth of July weekend, where a co-worker and I spent hours trolling weed lines in a 10 hp aluminum motorboat catching small Pike with leeches, and I first conceived of the dream of catching Pike like this with my children someday. Years after that, I began taking my first Boundary Waters trips, determined to catch a gigantic Northern Pike “the size of my leg,” but more often than not, I struck out completely at catching anything, let alone a fish of significant size. But now, I am here. WE are here, sharing this moment, together.

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In this singular moment, what can one say? What can one think, or do? All I can do is laugh, hysterically! After years of dreaming, suffering, failure, and accepting that I will always be outfished by my son and just about anyone else that owns a fishing pole, I am staring at a magnificent, prehistoric creature of a size that I never could have imagined. Given that fact, I don’t laugh for long. As sudden as the hysterical shock of actually landing this fish overcomes me, it evaporates into a heavy feeling of responsibility that now rests squarely on my shoulders. This fish, this dream, this perfectly evolved monarch of the ecosystem, is now in my hands, and I must handle this responsibility with both reverence and speed. I quickly power on my phone, pass it up to Andrew, and he snaps multiple photos, taking utmost care to support the body. After photos, I measure the fish on the ruler I have stuck to the inside of the canoe. This in and of itself is a comical task, given that the ruler only goes to 36” and I have to maneuver the fish under the thwart while trying to fully support the body to get the most accurate measurement possible. The head of the fish reaches all the way up to the very front of the third seat bracket from the ruler near my seat. This makes for an easy mark to remember to measure once we get back to the outfitter. I briefly hold the fish over the widest part of the canoe in the middle, and it easily hangs over each side. After another photo or two to be sure, I put the fish back in the water. We wait a minute or two while it recovers, then watch it swim back into the depths of the lake.

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Andrew and I are beside ourselves with disbelief. I lay back in the stern of the canoe and let my laughter soar toward the heavens. It feels like my whole body is tingling with nervous, confused energy, and my head feels like it’s floating above my body. Once I finally regain control of my emotions, I pull up the anchor, reposition the canoe, and cast out my line, telling Andrew, “Line out on the right.” He looks back at me incredulously and exclaims, “That’s it?! You’re just moving on now?! You can’t just do that!” “Nothing else to do but try for another one I guess,” I deadpan with a smirk. Over the course of the next thirty minutes, we work this same area of the shoreline, coming up with a quality fish each time. Andrew boats yet another 16” Smallmouth, then I reel in a nice 29” Northern. Especially since we don’t have the time or battery power to capture photos of each of these fish, we become very efficient at unhooking, measuring, and releasing them, laughing out loud about how nonchalant we are about catching fish that only last year would have been cause for riotous celebration. After each catch, Andrew keeps repeating “What is happening?! How is this real life?!” It seems we’ve ventured into a world where even the average fish we catch will be significantly larger than any fish we’ve caught previously. Andrew caps off this most surreal hour of fishing with a terrific 17” Smallmouth, before the action finally slows.

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Still starstruck, we paddle to site #2037 to regroup and clean the Walleye. I spend some extra time showing Andrew how to filet the fish and let him give it a try. With any luck, he’ll not only be a better fisherman than me soon, but also better at cleaning fish! A day like this could only be made better by one more perfect catch: a Lake Trout. We tie on a shad dancer and a tail dancer, and make plans to troll by some of the deeper parts of the lake on our way back to camp. We pick up a few choice logs of bleached white beaver wood nearby for the campfire, then make our way toward where we hope the lake trout reside.

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We plod our way toward the campsite, trolling our lures for quite some time into a modest headwind that creates chop on the water, but nothing can dampen our enthusiasm today. Then Andrew has a fish on that feels like a good one, and both of us feel certain that we have finally found “Leonardo!” Though our premonitions were wrong when we felt this way on Rabbit, nothing can stop us today. After adjusting his drag, Andrew easily reels in a gorgeous 18”Lake Trout, his first ever, and the first one I’ve seen caught since my very first trip to the Boundary Waters, four years ago. That makes for a single-day “team” grand slam! Unreal!

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Once back at the camp, I nearly fumble the Lake Trout back into the depths at the landing as I fiddle with the stringer, but today is apparently our lucky day once again, as I find a way to grab it before it swims off. While there’s plenty to do to prepare for supper once again, tonight these tasks are a joyful burden to be enjoyed and savored, rather than overwhelmed by. As I’m unloading gear, organizing camp, and processing the beaver wood, we banter about the best names for Boundary Waters fish. Lake Trout are to be named “Leonardo,” as they are truly a “magnum opus” species, uniquely evolved for these deep, clear northern waters. Walleyes are named “Winston,” a regal name befitting of their lofty stature in the hearts and minds of all fishermen. While we love catching bass, they receive the most simple name of “Boris,” occasionally abbreviated to “Bo.” Pike are dubbed “Spike,” matching their insanely aggressive attitude and unpredictability. Since I’m convinced today’s trophy fish was an aggressive female, I choose to name her “Petra,” a mysterious phantom goddess of the deep.

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Before fully diving into meal prep, both he and I decide that this is a night that must be capped off with a brief celebratory swim. I flop into the shallow, icy water, half-jokingly shouting “State record pike!”, feeling the exhilaration of the frigid water enveloping my body along with the deep, meaningful joy that can only come after experiencing a fleeting moment of unspeakable success borne through years of patient pursuit.

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Andrew volunteers to take charge of cleaning the Lake Trout, since he saw a YouTube video of how to gut and cook a trout whole over the fire this year and is eager to try it. I gladly hand the fish cleaning duties over to him and thus learn a new way to cook and clean fish. After removing the head, gutting the fish, and cleaning out the gut cavity and bloodline, he slices a few deep gouges in the body, which we season, and then simply lay the fish on the fire grate.

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Between this healthy Lake Trout and the Walleye, we have no need for a dehydrated meal tonight, supplementing our fish feast with our standard appetizer of pan-fried summer sausage with cheese, cheez-its, and hot sauce, plus bannock, finishing with strawberry chocolate angel food cake for dessert. For the first time on this trip, I feel truly full.

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As the sun sinks low on the horizon and with the “must-do” tasks of the day behind us, we allow ourselves to fully ruminate on the events of the day, savoring them, turning them over in our minds again and again, discovering new, miraculous details that led us to be right here, right now. The wonders are numerous!

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-On my first trip to the Boundary Waters with my friend Shawn, we had planned on reaching the South Arm of Knife Lake, but stopped short and settled for a wonderful base camp trip on Ester. I did so many things wrong on that trip, and my fishing expertise was much lower than it is now. Had we made it to Knife, it’s possible we wouldn’t have had much luck here, and I don’t know if I would have been eager to return later with Andrew.

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-Our parish priest at home, Father Marco, dispensed us from attending Mass once during our trip, but we had to slightly change our trip plans to make sure we attended Sunday Mass in Grand Marais before our entry date, even though it was inconvenient. This timing that seemed difficult at first ended up being the most perfect timing imaginable.

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-Andrew’s suggestion of using the Mepps Black Fury, something I never would have considered on my own, and his insistence that one of us should use it.

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-Catching just enough fish to keep us paddling onward to where we hit the jackpot. Both he and I were contemplating turning around! And had I not caught the Walleye on the Mepps, I most likely would have tied on a different lure!

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-We found a heads up penny when first arriving at this site and left it on our table at camp. Maybe it brought us luck (or was it the lucky underwear we found hanging in the tree?)!

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“Happiness is only real when shared.” ~Christopher McCandless

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Over the glowing embers that have accompany all of life’s most treasured discussions, we allow ourselves to ponder what this all means. When Andrew asks me how it felt to catch the fish, I first tell him that there’s simply no way I could have caught it without him. I am here because of him. I tied on the lure because of him. My trips are now more fishing-focused because he is here. He netted the fish, took the all-important photos, and accentuated the memory by sharing in it, none of which would have been possible on my own. I tell him that the only thing that would have made it better for me is if he would have caught it. Andrew surprises me by saying he wouldn’t have it any other way, that he’s happier that I’m the one that caught the fish. He tells me that while many people don’t particularly like catching Pike, he knows no one that loves catching Pike more than me, and knew it meant the world to me to catch today’s trophy, the Pike of legend.

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I share with him that part of what made catching this fish so unspeakably special is that he and I, by the work of our own hands, made it happen, together. No motors, no guides, and in many ways…no clue. This fish, in this place, simultaneously feels like an undeserved offering from the heavens as well as something we suffered for…a dream we have shared together for ages.

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“I think everybody should…do everything they’ve ever dreamed of so they can see that it’s not the answer.” ~Jim Carrey

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Andrew asks the classic question of “How did it feel?” While the moment was triumphant, the feeling that will stick with me forever is how I felt a heavy weight of responsibility upon me to care for this unspeakably magnificent creature. While I wanted to appreciate the moment, I have never so strongly felt the responsibility as a sportsman to cherish my moment, then return this fish, this incredible resource of this world-class fishery, back to the water unharmed.

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A constant that we keep circling back to is more of a question than an answer. With this kind of success on our very first full day on the lake, what now? How has our perspective been changed today? After so many quality fish and one incredible trophy, where do we go from here? Last year, we were overjoyed when catching 24” pike and 13” smallmouth. Whether the fish are plentiful, sparse, large, or small, how can we appreciate each day of fishing we’ve been given as much as this day? Are we forever spoiled?

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As the embers die, we approach the above questions with a cold hearted practicality: The setting of new goals for the remainder of our trip. These goals are:

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Andrew: Catch a 20” Smallmouth (for myself: Just catch one 15” Smallmouth).

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Andrew: Catch a Walleye (for myself: catch a Lake Trout) to complete the individual grand slam for the trip.

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Both: Catch a Smallmouth or Northern on a topwater lure.

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While these goals do little to answer the deeper questions of how today’s fishing success will alter our perspective and attitude going forward, they turn abstract thoughts into concrete pursuits: There is more out there for us, infinitely more than this modest goals list. The fact that I can still scarcely believe the events of today truly happened is evidence that they are already slipping into the past. Today is now in the past. Tonight, we sleep in victory. Tomorrow we will greet the morning as any other: With gratitude for a fresh new day, whatever it may bring. [paragraph break] Stats—> Paddle distance: 6.0 miles | Fishing time: 5:00 | Fish caught: 13 (8 SB, 3 NP, 1 W, 1 LT) | Lakes: South Arm Knife | Top lures: Z-Man Mini Max chatter bait (green pumpkin), Mepps 5 Black Fury (chartreuse skirt)

 



Part 9 of 16


Day 6: Day Trippin’ [paragraph break] Thursday, June 18th, 2026 [paragraph break] I rise early to thrash through the brush for more firewood while Andrew sleeps in. After some modest success, I return to camp to split the wood then ready the canoe for fishing. With the woodpile organized and the canoe prepped for our departure, I turn the weather radio to FM and find a station playing the old song “Why Can’t We Be Friends,” then turn up the volume to go rouse Andrew from the hammock so we can get going. Andrew slept well and after breakfast by the fire grate, we leave the landing at 10:00 for our day trip exploring various bays of the “north arm” of Knife. We troll around a couple of the islands leading to the western portage into Knife, but have no luck.

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We have little trouble locating the portage, but once we land, I suddenly remember how it’s somewhat of a pain to go from “fishing configuration” with loose gear at the ready plus stringer and anchor bag looped to the boat to a tidy, streamlined portage configuration. Also, it’s suddenly hot, so we peel off base layers. Once the gear is finally across, it starts raining, so we don our rain gear. Fortunately we don’t have to go too far today, because we aren’t moving very efficiently! Within 10 minutes, the rain stops and we stop to pack it away.

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However, once we get lures in the water, we have little trouble finding the fish. I am pleased to discover that I can still catch the small fish I’m used to catching and have a good time, one trophy catch hasn’t ruined me forever. This area of the lake is certainly muckier, weedier, and brushier, and the fish species we catch reflect this. I catch my first Largemouth of the trip, my fourth species, and dub this achievement the “poor man’s grand slam,” since I haven’t caught a Lake Trout yet. Andrew also finds a couple Largemouth today, completing his poor man’s slam.

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As we head northwest up a narrow arm of the lake, we have our best action yet in a deeper bay with submerged weeds. Andrew, always the bass master, catches another quality 15” Smallmouth on a big gold Mepps. Then I strike Walleye gold again, boating an 18” Walleye on a chartreuse Syclops. Everyday with a Walleye on the line is a great day! However, dark clouds are rapidly gathering to the west. By the time we realize it would be best to take shelter at a nearby vacant campsite, the storm is nearly upon us. We reel in our lines, don our rain gear, and though it’s hard to come to grips with the fact that our chance to fish this bay is now over, we begin paddling hard for the campsite where we plan to eat lunch. The storm blows in on us, dousing us with the hardest rain of the trip, and even some small hail. It’s windy for a bit, but nothing too bad. In mere moments, we’ve gone from mostly dry and comfortable, leisurely fishing in the sunshine, to cold and wet, paddling through light showers and persistently gray skies. We troll our way to the campsite with no luck, save for one tiny Pike, the size of my hand, easily the smallest one I’ve ever caught. From yesterday’s trophy, back to reality!

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We land at the site #1437, which is a lovely one, full of character. The site sits in a wonderfully secluded tiny bay, and the fire grate is perfectly framed by two gigantic white pines. Unfortunately, if one were to try to hammock here, these white pines are just about the only good option for hanging, which would encroach on the lovely little wide open kitchen area, and would render campfires impossible! However, this site is a picture perfect lunch spot. I clean the Walleye, while Andrew uses the latrine. He discovers prolific spiderwebs in the latrine, and uses a nearby brushy balsam branch as a chimney sweep tool to clear it out, then realizes we have no toilet paper. Fortunately, necessity is the mother of invention, so he has no trouble solving that problem on his own too. There’s nothing like the wilderness to provide these important “coming of age” challenges!

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With lunch complete, we venture to the second set of bays which wind their way southeast to the eastern portage to the South Arm. Andrew ties on a Perch/Gold Little Cleo, while I switch to a firetiger Syclops in hopes of finding a large Pike. Aside from Andrew catching another Largemouth, all we catch are small Pike. The action remains fast, though, and on more than one occasion, the Pike hit so hard they nearly rip my rod out of the holder. At one point, we had a 3-4 pound Pike on the line, but we weren’t able to get him into the boat. Overall these bays are shallower and weedier than what we fished this morning. I wouldn’t fish this area expecting many trophies, but we have fun with all the action in here nonetheless.

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The portage back to South Arm is uneventful, aside from spotting a painted turtle sitting on a log. Both of us are ready to get back to camp to dry off and rest while enjoying those Walleye filets. We stop to look at 2 campsites that we pass on the way. Site #1436 is thick with pine duff, and this, combined with its secluded location up in this bay, make for a very cozy feel. It would work for three hammocks, but probably not many more. Site #1434 has all the makings of a Boy Scout wilderness palace, with open woods that would work as perfect hammock trees continuing back into the woods indefinitely. The fire grate even has an “auxiliary” log bench or two, making this site perfect for a large group. After passing this site, the sun once again makes an appearance through the clouds, brightening our mood and energizing us for the trip back to camp. Though camp sounds wonderful at this point, I convince Andrew (and myself) to make a brief stop on one of the islands for firewood scavenging, and manage to find some of the best logs of the trip. Ever the fishing optimist, I can’t help but beg Andrew for one last pass around the bay north of our campsite with the Walleye Wizard and his Little Cleo. In spite of my optimism, we are unsuccessful, and at last reach the landing at camp. This was a fun adventure today. But we are cold, wet, tired, and hungry. But we are home for the night, with two perfect Walleye filets ready for the frying pan!

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Since we’ve passed the midpoint of our trip and are famished, we decide to put a good dent in the food pack stores tonight. We immediately start a fire for warmth, drying, and general ambiance. Our fried summer sausage and cheese appetizer is followed by bannock and chili, with perfectly fried Walleye filets on the side. We finish off with apple crisp. With our stomachs full and feet dry, all is right with the world once again. Another comforting camp ritual is listening to the weather radio. Once we obtain the updated report tonight, we make plans for when we will leave this site to return to Voyageur via the way we came. We plan to leave this site on Sunday, spending tomorrow (Friday) trolling the Syclops all over Knife, hunting for another giant Northern. Saturday will be dedicated to chasing Smallmouth in hopes of finding steady topwater action and my first quality Smallmouth.

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We would like to stay and fish on Ashdick on our way back, maybe for two nights, depending on the weather. We want to avoid paddling to the exit on Sag in whitecaps, so we are going to keep monitoring the wind forecast as our exit day nears. A near-daily discussion has been whether or not we will take on the adventure of the “not recommended” Ashdick to Swamp portage on our way out. In fact, the dire warnings received about this portage over the years have only served to attract our attention, rather than repel it. We are confident in our abilities, the packs will be light, and the mud can’t be much worse than what we experienced on the Monument Portage coming in. I issue my own dire warnings to Andrew, that I feel like I could scale a cliff face on a portage if I had to, but I don’t want to get him into an experience that would cause him to have a miserable time. He remains steadfastly confident in his abilities to handle the challenge, and I can’t help but wryly smirk at how much I look forward to taking on this portage with him. With the maps out, we discuss my solo trips down the Louse and Frost Rivers, both routes I would love to visit again with him someday when he is ready.

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“Nothing in the world is worth having or worth doing unless it means effort, pain, difficulty…I have never in my life envied a human being who led an easy life. I have envied a great many people who led difficult lives and led them well.” ~Theodore Roosevelt

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Last night’s concerns about how we would react to a “normal” day in the park after yesterday’s “once -in-a-lifetime” day prove to be unfounded. Today’s fishing was modestly successful at best, we got caught in a downpour, and we spent our energy reserves sawing wood and portaging. But at day’s end, when we finally sit by the fire, blissfully fatigued in a way that I never feel in the civilized world, we are in our happy place. The fatigue, effort, and challenge is an integral part of this happy place I am in both physically and spiritually. Why is this true, not just for me, but for virtually all of humanity? Why must the physics of our existence work this way? If we know it’s true, and continue to experience this truth, why are we so often suckered into an easy way out that leaves us dissatisfied? How can seeking out challenges and sufferings become a part of life back in the civilized world, where we are perpetually surrounded by ease, comfort, and easy ways out? Am I mentally strong enough to choose the strenuous life over the easy, well-trodden path? Is it really worth it? Will facing such challenges provide me with the same deep gratification that I feel when huddled around the glowing embers of a Boundary Waters campfire?

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The questions in and of themselves are a joy to discover. On the Tumblehome Boundary Waters podcast, the hosts likened sitting in front of a campfire to dreaming while still awake. One’s mind sorts, organizes, and makes connections that could never be made otherwise. These questions, in and of themselves, stretch out before me like an endless winding road stretching out to the horizon. While I may not know where they lead, they are like a steadfast beacon, guiding me on the right path, for reasons I don’t understand.

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Our bodies cry out for the unspeakable comfort of stretching out in the hammocks. And yet the questions remain. I may never know the answers, but I don’t have to. I am a simple man with a healthy, tired body and a gloriously complex, yet simple mind. Far-reaching answers to these infinite questions aren’t nearly as important as the clarity I’ve gained on where I should place my next step on the path. As I douse my headlamp and close my eyes, I know that is more than enough for today. [paragraph break] Stats—> Portages: 2 | Portage rods: 93 | Paddle Distance: 4.0 miles | Fishing time: 5:00 | Fish caught: 13 (1 SB, 4 LB, 8 NP, 1 W ) | Lakes: South Arm Knife, Knife | Top lures: #2 Mepps Syclops (Firetiger), Mepps #5 Gold (yellow skirt), ? Little Cleo (Perch/Gold)

 



Part 10 of 16


Day 7: Taking it Slow on Knife and Toe [paragraph break] Friday, June 19th, 2026 [paragraph break] With plenty of logs in camp that we sawed yesterday, I for once don’t have to start my day by plunging into the thick brush and balsam woods that surround our site. I spend the morning splitting, sawing, and tidying up, then wake Andrew at 7:30 A.M. with James Taylor singing “You’ve Got a Friend” from the weather radio. After breakfast, we hit the water.

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With near-perfect paddling conditions on the lake today, I have Andrew take the stern seat for our paddle over to Eddy Falls. He handles the job perfectly and enjoys the change of scenery and extra legroom in the back of the boat. While we’ve passed by the falls a couple times already this trip, we haven’t hiked in for a closer look yet and plan to do so today. Along the way, a solo camper calls out to us from shore, telling us to try fishing below the falls for Smallmouth. There’s not too much traffic at the falls this morning, and we hike in for a quick look and a photo or two, then try fishing below the falls for a bit. Our efforts yield only one small bass, so we head back to where the trophy Northern was caught a couple days ago, each with a Syclops tied on, confident that another large Northern in the area is sure to bite. I immediately find a 28” Northern, but that turns out to be all. I switch to a large Mepps spinner, while Andrew changes to a twister tail. Still, we have no action whatsoever, until Andrew hooks into what seems to be the largest Smallmouth Bass of the trip. After a brief glimpse of this impressive fish, his line goes slack and the fish gets away. While there’s no way to know if that was the elusive 20” bass we’ve been chasing, we both are certain it was the best bass of the trip. After a slow morning of fishing, we are both feeling beat down after missing out on the fish that would have changed the entire day. We pull into nearby campsite #2038 to take a mental break and explore a bit. The site would work for three hammocks if needed but is overall just average. Andrew casts out from the front of the site and pulls in the catch of the day, dead fish remains that had been thrown off of the campsite, which further accentuates the disappointing fishing we’ve had today.

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While we hadn’t planned this initially, our need for a change of pace leads us to the short lift over into nearby Toe Lake. Perhaps it’s because we are spoiled after the past few days on the clear waters of Knife, but Toe is mucky and weedy, with deeply stained water. But a new lake always injects a sense of optimism, so we cast out fully expecting to find a fish or two. And very soon, we do, doubling up with a 13” Smallmouth and a 23” Northern. We would stay here trolling this area of Toe longer, but dark clouds are gathering once again, and we are quite a distance from camp, so we keep moving. Even with the ominous skies, we can’t help but take a quick look around the campsite on Toe, site #2043. This one is a cozy, secluded beauty of a site with great space, a perfect fire grate area, and gorgeous white pines throughout the camp. We make short work of the portage back into Knife, where the skies suddenly start to clear. We fish several bays for Smallmouth, with only modest success. Andrew catches several smaller ones as well as a 15” bass and gets plenty of bites, but I get absolutely no action, even after switching to a swimbait and trying to fish just like Andrew does. The kid just has the golden touch when it comes to bass.

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On the long paddle back to the site, we tie on a tail dancer, shad dancer, and the Walleye Wizard to try to salvage a decent fish for supper, but have zero action. Our canoe conversations on the way back are standard for a day such as this, deliriously singing songs we really don’t know, trying to tailor lyrics to fit the tune that describe how poor our fishing luck has been today. We arrive back at our site hungry and ready for a slower rest day around camp. We eat lunch and are still hungry, so we fire up the skillet early tonight for summer sausage with cheese, followed by hashbrowns and tomato soup. We break out the chess board so Andrew can demonstrate to me how little I know about chess, then kick the hacky sack around for the first time this trip. This is just what the doctor ordered for our lackluster spirits, because we are both terrible and able to let go and just laugh at our ineptitude. We eat a lackluster stir fry meal and discuss Sunday’s Mass readings, since we will still be in the park this Sunday. We burn a surprising amount of firewood just relaxing together around camp tonight, and considering how much we love campfires, perhaps this means our day was a success after all.

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A week ago, I was driving up the north shore, my foggy, sleep-deprived mind alternating between numbness and caffeine-fueled panic as we trudged toward Grand Marais on highway 61. I prayed and silently pleaded for a successful trip, simply one that Andrew would be able to enjoy. The closest thing to an answer I received in that moment was the thought that all I needed to do was to relax and “Let the wilderness work its magic.” No matter what we were doing today, I kept thinking back to James Taylor’s soothing voice reaching through the crackling speaker of our weather radio, singing “You’ve Got a Friend.” The song somehow strikes the perfect balance of melancholy, patience, and comfort which perfectly accentuates the type of day we had today. Last week, I dreaded a day like today, fretting about whether it would be “good enough” to keep Andrew from getting bored or frustrated with this wild adventure. But even during a successful trip, the ordinary moments far outweigh extraordinary. A tasty meal by the fire must be preceded by hours of shopping, dehydrating, and packaging, then thrashing through impenetrable brush to gather the wood, then cooking it over the stove, and doing dishes when it’s all over. While the goals we seek on these trips are eating that meal, catching that fish, seeing that waterfall, or sharing that wildlife sighting, the overarching MISSION is achieving a deeper relationship with my son. As James Taylor sings so well, that mission is achieved by sharing moments together when the sky is “dark and full of clouds.” We’ll never forget our best fishing days, but we also won’t forget how terrible we are at pitching a tarp, the comic futility of playing hacky sack in the middle of nowhere, and the terror of being caught out on the lake when a gusty downpour overtakes us. Spending time in the wilderness with Andrew has allowed space for days like today, when just being together is enough, even if the bugs are biting and the conversation is nonsensical. All of these varied moments, shared together, are knit into the ever-changing fabric of our relationship. For now, the proper reaction shouldn’t be to question why today wasn’t what we’d hoped for, but to rest comfortably that we made the best of it, together.

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But you better believe we are getting after it early tomorrow so I can finally catch a decent smallmouth, or I’ll never hear the end of it from Andrew! [paragraph break] Stats—> Portages: 2 | Portage rods: 21 | Paddle distance: 6.0 miles | Fishing time: 3:45 | Fish caught: 7 (5 SB, 2 NP) | Lakes: South Arm Knife, Toe | Top lures: Z-Man tickler (mood ring), Mepps #3 Syclops (Chartreuse)

 



Part 11 of 16


Day 8: Last Day on Knife [paragraph break] Saturday, June 20th, 2026 [paragraph break] After sawing firewood and eating breakfast, we leave the landing at 8:30 A.M., with the goal of catching as many Smallies as possible. We battle plenty of snags today, but also have some decent luck, catching 15 and 16” Smallmouths, as well as a 26” Northern. During a foolishly hopeful troll through deeper water between two bays, I finally luck into my best Smallmouth of the trip. Andrew gets the best view of this one, seeing it jump a full foot above the water behind me while I’m reeling it in. There’s less traffic on the lake today, but also slightly more wind and chop on the water. Periodically we toss the Choppo, searching for the topwater action we’ve been missing all week, but have no luck. As the day warms, the action dies down, and the waves pick up. Neither of us are looking forward to the long paddle back to camp, but know we have no choice but to start digging deep once again if we are to make it back for a leisurely final night at camp. After 48 minutes of steady, purposeful paddling, we pull into the landing, satisfied that we have given the South Arm of Knife our best shot in terms of fishing. When comparing this lake to any other we’ve fished, we both agree that while we haven’t caught as many fish, we’ve enjoyed how most of the fish we caught here have been of a decent size. Having the chance to catch the grand slam on a single lake is also fun, because you just never know what you’re going to find. And of course, we found several very nice fish this week, including one trophy fish. When coupled with a great campsite and the outstanding beauty of this lake, we are both very pleased that we made the effort to get here.

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We have one bass on the stringer from the day, but upon further inspection, we can’t tell if it has eggs or not. After a successful week of fishing that included a fish dinner or two, we gladly let this one go as a way of thanking the South Arm for all it’s given us this week.

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We enjoy a taco supper, and after listening to the evening weather report, we get out the maps to hash out the travel plan for tomorrow. Our plan is to camp on Ashdick just one night, getting there in plenty of time to set up and do some fishing. From there, we are both still gung-ho to take on the challenge of the portage from Ashdick into Swamp the following day, then paddling most of the way across Sag in what is forecast to be dry, calm weather. Andrew says he wants to like Sag, but that the lake has given him nothing but suffering the two times we’ve paddled on it, so he really wants to see if he can appreciate it when conditions are more amiable. Leaving just a short paddle for our exit day should result in a much easier drive home, so I also feel good about this plan, even though it requires leaving a day early.

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We take down the tarp and manically organize every single item around camp to allow for a low-stress getaway tomorrow morning. Our plan is to paddle out at 5 A.M., so we turn into the hammocks while it’s still light out for one last time on this lake that has given us so much. [paragraph break] Stats—> Fishing time: 4:00 | Fish caught: 7 (6 SB, 1 NP) | Lakes: South Arm Knife | Top lures: Fat Albert Grub (green pumpkin), Perch X-Rap Deep

 



Part 12 of 16


Day 9: The Bass Master Reigneth [paragraph break] Sunday, June 21st, 2026 [paragraph break] The alarm sounds at 3:30, and we leave the landing at 5:30 A.M. The water is glass, and we set a steady, comfortable pace across the lake. We entered this lake several days ago in similar conditions, and I was enraptured by its beauty. I leave feeling no less awestruck, and now have a few more fish stories to share. Aside from snapping a few photos of Andrew paddling in the bow as the eastern sky brightens, we mostly paddle in silence, as if even a clumsy, splashing paddle stroke would be an affront to this incredible sanctuary of the Boundary Waters.

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After 75 minutes, we reach the portage to Hanson, which is just as beautiful as it was the first time. Before I turn to leave this final view of the lake, I snap a photo or two, knowing it is likely to be a while before I can return. On the Hanson side, we once again eat our thermos breakfast in the canoe floating out on the lake to keep the mosquitoes at bay, then continue our steady progress across the lake, motivated by the prospect of having time to fish on Ashdick tonight. I have Andrew paddle stern, and this change, combined with the impeccable paddling conditions, invigorates us. It’s Fathers’ Day today, and I can’t think of a better way to spend it than doing exactly this! As we slice through the tranquil waters, our conversations easily flow from where he wants to go to college, where he would like to live, and what characteristics make for a beautiful lake. Surprisingly, we pass just one occupied campsite this morning between the South Arm Knife and Ashdick. Ester is completely empty, and we can’t help but land to check out the palatial site on the south end of the island, site #2008, a site I’ve never seen vacant. This truly is an amazing site, perhaps the best I’ve ever seen, featuring a gigantic elevated fire pit and an endless supply of semi-open red pines which would make for a hammocking paradise. But even though Ester is a stunning lake, our goal today is to camp on humble Ashdick Lake. The portage to Ashdick is quite overgrown with below average footing the whole way, but overall it’s just a fun challenge, nothing too tough. Even though we are here just a week later than last year, the difference is very noticeable in terms of how much thicker the foliage is both on the trees and on the ground.

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With our final portage behind us, the anticipation again builds to see if the “better” site (#333) on Ashdick will be open. Along the way, we make a brief stop at the “lesser” (#334) site on Ashdick, and marvel at its brushiness and rough and tumble nature. It would be pretty tough to hang two hammocks in here. Hopefully the other site is open…and it is! I am very excited to be spending a night here. The landing is a mucky notch below a steep brushy cliff that leads up to the main area of the site. There are two decent tent pads, one of which we will use for both of our hammocks. The fire grate area sits atop a steep incline that leads down to the lake, making for a somewhat cramped kitchen area. The fire grate itself sits sideways to the lake, which works but is also a bit strange. We consider all of these oddities interesting character qualities rather than flaws, though. We have a terrific view of the water on our choice lake, and will be able to pitch our hammocks without too much trouble. That’ll work!

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The unsolved mystery of the trip has been “Where did the stringer go?” Over the past several days, we have concluded that it either had to be at the landing leaving Ashdick for Ester, or at this campsite, where I cleaned the bass last week before hustling back to Rabbit in the storm. We land the canoe, and Andrew makes his way to where I cleaned the fish, where he immediately sees the stringer and tells me to go down there and look with a knowing smirk. I go down there and don’t see a thing, until he tromps down and laughs at me while picking up the stringer laying right at my feet. This day just keeps getting better! If we can catch some fish, I won’t have to tie knots to keep them!

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We engineer a creative combined tarp setup and have our hammocks set up in under an hour. My confidence that we’ll be able to find firewood near the campsite is ill-placed, but we manage to find just enough to get by for one night. For some reason the wood here saws hard and wears us both completely out! This initial hard push to get camp set up has taken me from “amped” to just “antsy.” It’s a stunningly beautiful day, but if we don’t get this work done and get out there fishing soon, I feel like I’m going to lose my mind!

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Fortunately, after some tidying up around camp, we are at last able to hit the water. I take about three paddle strokes before Andrew hooks into his first bass, and our spirits instantly lift. There’s just nothing better than camping right next to good fishing. For the next 90 minutes, Andrew positively smokes the Smallies and Pike. I change to a lure very similar to what he is using, but of course I don’t have nearly the same measure of success. Fortunately I’m used to this, and don’t mind my role as the net man. He even starts to feel bad after a little bit and lets me cast off the side of the canoe where he’s been catching all the fish. This opportunity gains me precisely one snag, and then he casts out that same side and promptly begins slaying the bass once again. All we can do is laugh at my misfortune juxtaposed with his skill. His haul for the night includes 16” and 17” Smallmouths, a 16” Largemouth, and a fat 27” Northern, the fastest action of the entire trip. We keep a couple of bass for the stringer for a final fish fry, then slowly troll our way back to camp.

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Andrew is a pro at running the stove at this point, so while I clean the fish, he preps tomorrow’s travel meals, then gets tonight’s meals going. I of course leave the stringer on the ground in the same place where I lost it previously, but Andrew sees my mistake and keeps me from losing it once again. A gigantic snapping turtle is a constant presence in the water just below the site here, so this probably wouldn’t be a great site to leave a stringer of fish in the water for very long.

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As we sit in the oddly confined, uneven area next to the sideways fire grate atop a precarious steep drop off, swatting bugs and frying fish, we couldn’t be more pleased with this day. Somehow, our discussion turns to the vision quest, the Native American coming of age ritual where a young man goes out into the wilderness alone to fast and seek out spiritual guidance and meaning that he will carry with him the rest of his life. Before I ever brought Andrew on my trips to the Boundary Waters, I knew God had placed in my heart an enchantment with the wilderness that gripped me from a very early age. While those early trips were deeply satisfying, they failed to settle that question of “Why is this so important and meaningful to me?” But now, it is different. I tell him that while not everyone really understands why we go on these trips together, he and I both know why, even if we aren’t able to fully articulate it. While it’s possible to go on retreats or carve out a time for quiet prayer back home, there is no substitute for purposefully leaving modern conveniences behind and forcing ourselves to live a more spartan, simple life out in the wilderness, even if only for a short time. The wilderness allows us to get back in touch with something ancient within ourselves, something hardwired into our DNA and brains by our Heavenly Father, a part of ourselves that is always there, though often lying dormant beneath the surface in our modern lives.

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Leaving our distractions behind forces us to lock in and focus on the present moment with a laser focus that is nearly unattainable in our busy lives back home. We leave these trips knowing more about the world around us, the people we love, and the people we are deep inside. That is my whole vision for these trips with him, and I share that with him tonight. His very presence has made that vision infinitely more clear. I tell him how proud I am that he is willing to take on the struggles that a trip like this requires, and that it says a lot about who he is as a young man. I mention how I know our chances to be out here together won’t last forever, but I intend to do all I can to keep making it happen. No matter what happens during this year or the next ten years, we will always have the deep bond that is forged between two people who share a wilderness campfire together, a bond stronger even than death.

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We know this trip is nearly over, and can feel it in our bones as we take in each moment out here. However, we quite literally aren’t out of the woods yet. Tomorrow will bring the long-anticipated “not recommended” Ashdick to Swamp portage, followed by another chance to paddle across the mighty, temperamental lake known as Saganaga. We douse the fire and turn in for the night, confident that no matter what challenges lie ahead, we will persist and conquer them...together. [paragraph break] Stats—> Portages: 2 | Portage rods: 120 | Paddle distance: 6.7 miles | Travel time: 5:45 | Fishing time: 2:00 | Fish caught: 15 (11 SB, 1 LB, 3 NP) | Top lures: Z-Man 3” Tickler (coppertreuse) | Lakes: South Arm Knife, Hanson, Ester, Ashdick

 



Part 13 of 16


Day 10: The Redemption of Saganaga Lake [paragraph break] Monday, June 22nd, 2026 [paragraph break] After a 4:15 wake up call, we launch into the mists rising off of Ashdick Lake at four minutes past 6. Within seconds, we reach the landing for the portage into Swamp. When nearing the South Arm, we were beside ourselves with excitement, given the hype that surrounds its beauty and fishing. Somehow, after years of hearing about how awful this portage will be and discussing it for the whole trip, we approach it with the same level of excitement as we did Knife. The wry smirks on our faces are all that betray our knowledge that we might be biting off more than we can chew. We feel nearly the same about paddling across Saganaga today, which gave us so much trouble on the way in, even though the winds are forecast to be calm all day. It’s an attitude of “Let’s take on all the demons the park can throw at us, see how we fare, and we’ll have a tale or two to tell.” At long last, the anticipation is over.

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I shoulder the canoe with a grunt and steadily march forward into whatever awaits us, counting steps to pass the time and occupy my mind. If Andrew is within earshot, I quietly say each time we’ve conquered another hundred steps. Especially since we double portage, this also gives me a gauge of how much is left when taking the second load across. All the while, I am taking mental notes on every obstacle of this notorious path so I can pass as much information on to the outfitter and anyone else who wants to know. In spite of all the mosquitoes we’ve dealt with on this trip, it isn’t buggy in the least on this calm morning, which I consider a miracle. Complaints that this is a steep portage are also overblown, with the exception of the steady drop on the Swamp end. All other descriptors of this portage fall squarely under the “type 2 fun” category, however. We lose count of the number of muddy spots (maybe seven in total?) along the way, and at least four of them are prodigious both in their size and depth. On the first pass, I take a misstep on one of the nearly useless logs in the worst mud pit, lose my balance and stumble my way into thigh deep mud and crash down onto my backside. After a moment to chuckle at myself and heave the canoe off my shoulders, Andrew helps pull me out and I continue on my way. The footing is rough, scrambling over angled rocks most of the way (very comparable to the Ester-Ashdick portage) and can only be described as “good” for about ten steps. Right at that point, a large tree has fallen across the path at chest height to make sure you don’t get too comfortable. There are a few other stepovers of logs, and overgrowth accompanies us for the great majority of the portage. This overgrowth is especially thick on the Swamp end. By the end of my first trip with the canoe, I count over 1700 steps, which is a much higher ratio of steps per rod than the Hanson-South Arm portage had been, owing to the bad footing throughout which requires many shorter steps to keep your balance. On the second trip across with the packs, I count nearly 200 fewer steps due to the lightened load. With this long-anticipated portage complete, Andrew and I pause at the Swamp end to rehydrate and bask in the glory of completing the toughest portage of our trip, with only the short liftover into Saganaga remaining. But we are both stunned when our reverie is interrupted by the sound of someone crashing through the overgrowth behind us, a group of nine scouts with a trio of three person canoes! I quip that I thought we were the only ones crazy enough to be out here on this portage at such an early hour, and they simply shrug their shoulders and say they came from Hanson this morning. They are also bound for Saganaga today, and relay that they’ve had a great trip with decent fishing. I am impressed by their gung-ho attitudes and complete lack of complaining, as well as how little they pack, compared to us. Soon they are on their way, and we take our time leaving the landing behind them.

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I am dreading the lift over portage into Saganaga after remembering it being so slick and awkward on the paddle in, but we have an easier go of it this time around. No portages left! I want to revisit the first-ever campsite my friend Shawn and I stayed at in the park for our morning breakfast break, so we take a slight detour that way, where we see another large scout troop prepping to leave. We anchor our canoe a fair distance away in a nearby cove and eat breakfast in the canoe once again. Once we are done, the group has vacated the site, so we land for a quick walk down memory lane. The site, #339, is a spacious one in a secluded spot in the far northwest arm of Saganaga, and one I will always remember fondly. Andrew laughs as I recount the story of my first attempted bear hang off of a tree precariously perched atop a high cliff, a cliff I very nearly tumbled down into the lake while attempting said bear hang.

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We leave the site at 9:06, and enter the wide open northwest “neck” of Sag at 9:36. This portion of our opening day paddle was perhaps the most mentally challenging, since we were both exhausted from battling the headwinds to get here, then fought over an hour of crosswind rollers down this long, featureless highway of water. Today, with nearly calm winds and barely a ripple on the water, I am confident this will be a much better paddle, perhaps an enjoyable one. From the start of the neck, it’s 20 minutes to “Desolation Island,” the large island in the western end of the neck that looks so close from American Point, yet takes forever to reach. From there, it’s another 40 minutes to American Point. We shoot straight across the wide open portion of Saganaga through Munker Narrows with little trouble, aside from changing our course 1-2 times to make sure we are paddling into the narrows and not one of Munker Island’s large bays. After passing the narrows, we also take multiple compass readings to navigate toward the narrows that pass just south of our targeted island campsite, #366. We reach this site at 12:10, having spent about 2.5 hours paddling most of Saganaga in pristine conditions. With the great majority of Saganaga behind us and our final campsite secured, both Andrew and I are elated. Andrew repeatedly says how he wanted to like paddling on Sag, and today was the day he finally enjoyed it, on his third attempt.

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This site is very well-situated for a quick paddle to the exit tomorrow morning, which should prevent me from having to drive deep into the night to get back home. While I have visited this site before (also on my first trip, when Shawn and I stopped here for lunch and I managed to lose then later recover my phone near the latrine), I am surprised at how much I enjoy it, given its location in a relatively well-traveled area of the lake. The “front porch” of the site is a huge, flat grassy area with several large boulders that are perfect for laying wet gear and clothing in the sun to dry. The fire grate is roomy and well-kept, with a nice view. Today is the hottest day of the trip, at 68 degrees, so we take advantage of a shady “upper deck” above the fire grate to relax. While I prefer camping in secluded areas that can be a bit rough around the edges but less-trafficked, I find that I really enjoy sitting up here in this site and watching the world go by on Saganaga. Two motorboats quietly pass by, then a canoe, all of whom share a wave as they pass. After setting up the water filter, hanging hammocks, and gathering firewood, we can’t resist just one more attempt at catching a fish. While I’m readying the canoe, Andrew tosses the Choppo from shore in front of the site and manages to catch a 10” smallmouth. Nothing too special, but it ends up being the only fish caught on topwater for the entire trip. We troll the channel of water in front of the site, and around a nearby island where I nearly caught a decent pike last year, but have no success, so we return to the site for the evening.

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We have a little trouble finding “perfect” hammock trees that aren’t perched on top of rocky ground, but it’s not too hard to make it work here, given all the space. With no chance of rain in the forecast, we choose not to stake out our tarps tonight so we can enjoy a wide open view of the sky as we sleep. This will speed tomorrow’s breaking of camp in the pre-dawn hours. There is something about this site that is just perfect for the last night of our trip. I feel completely carefree and comfortable here, on this lake that is a part of so many memories of the Boundary Waters for me. Andrew and I do our best to clean out the food pack, finishing off the hashbrowns and summer sausage, followed by a main course of tomato/sausage garlic couscous and mud pie for dessert (chocolate pudding with nuts and granola). We talk a great deal about what trip we will plan for next year. My next youngest son will be ready for his first trip to the Boundary Waters next year, and I want to make sure he at least gets to take one trip on his own with me, as Andrew has been able to do. I also want to make sure Andrew doesn’t miss out on taking a trip next year, so I resolve that next year I will find a way to make both trips happen. We make tentative plans for a Clearwater loop with Andrew next year, and a basecamp trip with his younger brother, similar to Andrew’s first trip.

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These last two days of travel from the South Arm have been the perfect “slow goodbye” to this wilderness I love so deeply. Sitting by the fire on Saganaga under a fading twilight sky, there isn’t much more to do, and little else to say that hasn’t already been said. We spend a great deal of time discussing and writing down some “nuts and bolts” stats from our trip, detailing which gear we used the most, how much food and fuel we have leftover, and which gear needs to be maintained or replaced before our next trip. Though I take pride in being well-prepared and organized, when it comes to the overall “success” of this trip, the numbers and data are insignificant when compared to matters of the heart. We could have caught more fish, and would have preferred more amicable paddling conditions on our entry day. But at the same time, adversity is a prerequisite for any fulfilling pursuit…I did all I could to prepare an ideal wilderness trip, but when all is said and done, the wilderness itself provides the beauty, adversity, and fulfillment in perfect measure. After ten days, we have both reached stasis, fully content here and somehow fully ready to slowly re-enter our everyday lives.

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We douse the fire, do some final organizing, then turn in under twilight skies, with the plan of launching at 4 A.M. tomorrow morning. The long road home awaits. [paragraph break] Stats—> Portages: 2 | Portage rods: 185 | Paddle distance: 6.7 miles | Travel time: 6:00 | Fishing time: 0:45 | Fish caught: 1 (1 SB) | Lakes: Ashdick, Swamp, Saganaga

 



Part 14 of 16


Day 11: Paddle Out [paragraph break] Tuesday, June 23rd, 2026 [paragraph break] When I peel off my eye mask at 2 A.M., rather than feel groggy, I am energized by the sight of millions of stars overhead from my hammock. I wake Andrew soon thereafter, and we methodically pack up camp by the light of our headlamps.

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By the time we are ready to leave the landing just before 4 A.M., the western sky is rapidly brightening with the promise of a new sunrise heralding the beginning of what will literally and figuratively be one of the longest days of the year. After a final photo or two from the landing, we push off under glass calm conditions into the fuzzy darkness toward the Seagull River.

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I snap a photo or two of Andrew paddling through dawn’s tranquil waters under a sky that morphs from midnight blue, to indigo, to a light sky blue tinged with pink clouds, over the span of the 60 minute paddle out. We reach the landing at Voyageur just after 5 A.M., and take our time loading our gear and canoe, as well as making sure all the important munchies and thermos meals are within arm’s reach for the long grind home. After showers, we still have time before they open up for the day, so we use the internet to download a treasure trove of podcasts for the drive, as well as watch a couple short YouTube videos that came up in discussion while in the park.

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Once Voyageur opens up, we step inside to browse for any last chance souvenirs, and to borrow a tape measure. I’ve been wondering how long that Northern Pike on Knife was this whole trip, and now is the moment of truth. When I measure the marked area on the canoe, the tape reads 44”, truly the fish of a lifetime, especially for a fisherman of my lowly caliber. We return the tape to Bill, show him photos of the big fish, and provide intel on how the fishing was on Rabbit, Ashdick, and the South Arm of Knife. And of course, we also pass along our report on the Ashdick to Swamp portage!

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We drive away from Voyageur at 7:20 A.M., stopping once on the Gunflint to take photos of some gorgeous lupines before pulling into Grand Marais. I tell Andrew that I think there’s one other person that would love to hear about our huge Pike: Adam from Tumblehome podcast, who loves the excitement of a big Pike on the line. We are happy to find him in Grand Marais, and spend a few minutes catching up on his recent trip as well as telling our fish story, sharing that it probably never would have happened had I not found his podcast.

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We leave Grand Marais on a mission to arrive home before midnight, with planned stops only for gas as well as for fresh fruit and a giant Caesar salad at the Cloquet Wal-Mart. Naturally, we fail at this endeavor, since I always need more coffee than planned on the drive home, and Andrew talks me into stopping at White Castle in Hinckley. On the drive home, I choose to make a “soft re-entry” to society, with zero cell phone communication until Duluth. After that I take a phone call or two from friends and family wanting to know how the trip went, but decide that if anyone really wants to see the photo of “the big one,” they have to give me a call to catch up and hear the story. Andrew does plenty of catching up on sleep while I drive, but we are still able to listen to several hours of “Unbroken.” I have to pull over for a nap just two hours away from home. We pull into the driveway at 1:46 A.M., put the canoe in the garage, and pile the gear in the house. The trip is over. [paragraph break] Stats—> Portages: 0 | Paddle distance: 3.1 miles | Paddle time: 1:09 | Total travel time: 17:30 on road (22 hours from campsite on Saganaga, 24 hours from wakeup) | Breaks: 2:15 | 2:15 spent loading car, showering, shopping at VCO after reaching landing

 



Part 15 of 16


Gear Notes and Final Stats [paragraph break] Food: Quantity packed was about right this year. We had a few meals left over due to early exit and packing a few spares. A fair amount of beef jerky was left, but the Rx bars very nearly out. Summer sausage, cheese, hot sauce, oil, breading all held out without too much left over.

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New meals: Tacos were a hit. Steaks were a hit. Chicken Noodle Soup was a hit. Hashbrowns were a hit (2 cartons=6 individual servings, good to have at three meals during the trip). Bannock was a nice addition too, and I think it could be even better with some fiddling with different spices added to the mix. I plan to have bannock at about half the meals during the week. Stir Fry was not very good. With better beef jerky used to cook it, it has potential though.

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Fuel used: 1 16 oz canister of isobutane was empty after one week. So we used just a little over 2 oz/person/day with our current cooking methods.

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New Gear: Pocket bellows, hacky sack, sun shirts, deck of cards and chess board all solid additions. The Helinox camp table was the overall gear MVP of the trip. I felt silly when I bought the WarBonnet RidgeRunner bridge hammock since I already had a Blackbird, but this was absolutely the right call for me. Setting up the RidgeRunner is foolproof and easy, saving me a great deal of stress and effort during the busy camp set up time…Plus, I slept as well out in the park as I do at home!

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New Fishing Gear: Replacing our net almost certainly saved the trip! The rod holders were terrific, and even though it seemed silly, having one on each side of the thwart made fishing off of either side fo the boat a breeze.

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Lure review: Andrew’s soft plastics, especially the swim baits, were wildly successful. His mini chatterbait also had a lot of success. The tail dancers unfortunately didn’t work too well this time around, though not for lack of trying. While I liked having many crank bait patterns to troll, I didn’t have much luck. The Vibrax spinners especially the (Perch/Gold #3) as well as the big Mepps spinners worked well for me, though I felt like I lost a few more fish than I would’ve liked due to barbless hooks. I will continue to fish barbless when fishing with multiple trebles, but might go back to barbed for single hooks and single trebles. We don’t expect to plan trips targeting lake trout in the near future, but I still would like to give the BWJ Klos lake trout lures a try to see if we can have better luck when we are on lakes that hold lake trout. Sharpening hooks was a pain…but it also may have been instrumental in hooking into the Pike of legend. I’ll keep doing it, but I’m going to get an earlier start next time!

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New waters: The portage to Gulf Lake wasn’t easy, but fishing on Romance more than made up for it. I’m feeling more confident that we can skip the day trip in the future, driving up then entering the following morning. Rabbit is a beautiful, secluded lake, but I was a bit disappointed by the campsite, and we expected much better fishing. The South Arm of Knife lived up to the hype, delivering not just the fish of a lifetime, but multiple quality fish in various locations throughout the lake, stunning scenery, and a great campsite. While our day trip up to Knife’s northern arm wasn’t as successful as we’d hoped, I think there’s still great potential there and I’d love to explore that area further. Ashdick was a hoot, providing the best fishing action of the trip. It was worth dealing with the rough and tumble campsite for the fishing success we had.

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Decisions:

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Waking up in the dark to tear down camp is not fun, but it’s still well worth it to both of us on travel days so we can put miles behind us while conditions are more favorable. This also makes for far less worry about finding a solid campsite.

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Allowing plenty of time for travel to/from Knife, plus multiple days solely dedicated to fishing on Knife was the right call. It’s tough to clear space for a trip of this length, but I’m so glad we did. Though I hated leaving early, the joy of experiencing a near stress-free travel and camp day on Saganaga was more than worth it.

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Choosing to paddle rather than tow across Saganaga almost bit us on entry day. I did everything I could to make sure we had “outs” we were comfortable with, but our travel on day one was much, much harder than I’d hoped for. However, both Andrew and I are proud of ourselves for having taken on the challenge of paddling across Sag and we will forever remember it. We also both appreciate the freedom of making your own schedule when you paddle versus book a tow. Choosing the take the Ashdick-Swamp portage also made some memories and we both had fun taking the road less traveled!

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Expected routing for next year: Andrew and I plan to explore Clearwater, East Pike, and Caribou in hopes of more smallmouth and northern pike fishing. Emil and I plan to enter on Saganaga or Seagull to base camp on Grandpa to fish for northern pike and Roy for smallmouth bass. Another option may be a Wood Lake entry to base camp on Good, Indiana, or Wind. Both trips will be less than a week in duration.

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Final stats—> Portages: 22 | Portage rods: 1251 | Total portage distance (accounting for double portaging): 11.7 miles | Approximate distance paddled: 65 miles | Travel Time: 32:45 [paragraph break] Fish caught: 79 | Species: 52 smallmouth, 18 pike, 5 largemouth, 3 walleye, 1 lake trout | Andrew: 47 fish (35 SB, 7 NP, 4 LB, 1 LT) | Dad: 32 fish (17 SB, 11 NP, 3 W, 1 LB) | By lake: Romance 12, Rabbit 1, Ashdick 23, South Arm Knife 27, Knife 13, Toe 2, Saganaga 1 | Top lures: Z-Man Minnowz swim bait, Z-Man mini chatterbait, Vibrax #3 Perch/Gold, Mepps #5 Black Fury or Gold/chartreuse skirt, Z-Man ticklerz

 



Part 16 of 16


Afterword [paragraph break] As hard as I try to ease the transition, it’s difficult to accept that our trip is over, and in just a couple of days I’ll be back at work, surrounded by technology, distraction, and throngs of people. Paddling out on Sag this morning, the air was crisp, cool, and thick with the glorious scent of balsam. I inhaled as deeply as possible, countless times, thinking I could somehow seal off the sights, smells, and sounds of our trip into a hidden corner of my soul, where I could visit anytime, stay as long as I wished, and always feel at peace, enchanted by beauty, and connected to my son. Some elements of this experience will remain, indelibly etched into our minds, forever captured in our photos. But most of it will pass into the ether.

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Andrew is on the precipice of untold challenge, adventure, and growth in his life. While I have no earthly idea how he will react to all the changes that lie ahead for him, I am infinitely grateful that we have taken these sojourns into the wilderness together. While I eagerly anticipate introducing his next younger brother to the park next year, as well as a shorter trip with Andrew, it’s uncertain when he and I will both have the time to take a trip as long as this year’s was. I want to maximize every single moment with him, but I know that so much of that process is out of my hands as he spreads his wings over the coming years. The Boundary Waters has provided us a means of pursuing not just moments, but uninterrupted days together for adventure, challenge, and connection. Even if this is the last trip we’ve ever taken together, I can confidently say that these trips have altered the trajectory of our relationship for a lifetime.

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Many who sojourn in canoe country talk about how it takes a few days for their mind to feel settled in “wilderness time,” to appreciate each moment and place, whatever it brings, without concern and worry about their affairs outside the wilderness. For me, the whole trip changed when I realized I didn’t have to cling so tightly to each moment up here, squeezing all the life out of it, trying to make it perfect, but only needed to let the wilderness work its magic, as it has for decades for countless fathers and sons. In the same vein, letting go is a vital, healthy part of our father/son relationship. Andrew’s growth from a boy to a young man is wonderful, and sometimes frightening, but it is only a changing of our relationship…not an ending. Savoring moments together, but then releasing them with a grateful heart and a hopeful eye to what lies ahead gives him space to grow, learn and change…and subsequently deepen our understanding of each other as he grows up and I grow old. [paragraph break] While Andrew’s dinky Smallmouth caught off the Sag campsite was the final fish of the trip, the last fish caught on Ashdick felt mystical, an ethereal word from our Heavenly Father on the beauty of letting go as our trip drew to a close. As we approached our campsite at the end of our fishing session, Andrew’s rod doubled over and the stillness of that perfect evening was pierced by the sounds every Boundary Waters fisherman lives to hear. His drag screamed as the Northern peeled off a long initial run. I tossed the anchor bag overboard with a kerplunk, banged the net against a thwart as I hurriedly snatched it from the bottom of the canoe, and chuckled aloud at Andrew’s fishing success. Before long, I netted the Pike, measured it, and handed it up to Andrew for a photo. Measuring a skinny 29”, it wasn’t the best fish we’d caught, but we made sure to take the time to appreciate it nonetheless, knowing that another year would have to pass before we would be back to catch a Pike. After the photo, he gently released it into the water, where it calmly Iingered, suspended next to our canoe for several long seconds. Having left Knife, we were in the process of a long, slow goodbye to our favorite place in the world, the Boundary Waters. And now it felt like this, my favorite game fish and favorite animal of the north, was saying goodbye to us as it hung there, slowly waving its tail. A long moment later, it angled its body downward, propelled itself toward the depths with three languid waves of its tail, and was gone.

 


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