We had planned to hit the road early and drive up to the entry point the day of our permit. While we don’t live in the arrowhead, I do feel fortunate to be close enough to take extended weekend trips to the Boundary Waters. I am always amazed to hear the locations of other visitors from the discussion forums and how far they travel to visit northern Minnesota.

With the truck packed the night before, we loaded the kids (now 11 and 13) and the pup up around 4:30 and headed for the north shore. Along the way we stopped at Sawtooth Outfitter to grab our permit. The boys were thankfully engaged by the forest service videos as they were quizzed by the outfitter before we could attain our permit. Permit in hand we continued on our way towards Grand Marais.

As we passed through town, we decided it was plenty early enough in the morning to make a coffee stop and take in the harbor view. While in town I ran into Adam, co-host of the Boundary Waters Tumblehome podcast, and spent a few minutes chatting about trips past and present before continuing on our way. I appreciated that he took the time to chat with a stranger/listener that recognized him from the show.

Not far north of Grand Marais, we turned onto the Arrowhead Trail in Hovland and made our way up the dirt road to the put in. Surprisingly, there was more going on at the entry point than I would have expected. The bridge and dock on Little John Lake are both being replaced. After exchanging a few friendly words with the crew cutting the existing dock out, we assured each other there was plenty of room and loaded up the canoes around them as to not impede their work.

The canoes were loaded and off we went paddling towards John Lake. It didn’t take long before we passed the first groups making their way out. They provided precisely the information I was most curious about. They let us know the camp sites on East Pike were full outside of the site they had vacated and John Lake was empty. Admittedly, wilderness travel with the wife and the kids always gives me a touch more anxiety when it comes to campsite availability and how many more miles we may potentially have to travel, which was only heightened by the recent closures.

With those concerns quelled, we made the mile paddle to John Lake where we were able to walk the canoes through the light rapids and begin searching for a camp site. A glance at the first site we passed told us the steep landing was less than ideal and on we went towards site 748 on a rocky point where the Royal River flows out of John Lake. Following a quick walk around camp, the boys decided this was the spot. A brief downpour kept us under the large white pines offering cover and camp was made.

We felt very fortunate the fire ban was lifted just before leaving for this trip. While I would never cancel a trip due to a fire ban as I have experienced it numerous other occasions, I would miss the evening ambiance it provides and not being able to cook over the fire. The boys were also eager to collect wood and try their hand at fire starting. That evening we made brats and mac n cheese over the fire and headed to bed early as the day had started early.

~Little John Lake, John Lake

I was the first out of my hammock in the morning and was treated to some of the thickest fog I’ve seen anywhere. The loons were plentiful and their calls created quite the scene coupled with the fog that entirely blocked the cliffs and neighboring shores across from our site. I enjoyed a warm cup of coffee watching the fog dissipate with Ruby at my side while the family slept in. It was the type of scene I daydream about often while at the office.

With a morning fire going to warm up the family and get breakfast going, the coffee, hot chocolate and bacon came first. I’ve really come to enjoy using the banks fry bake pan over the fire and have dialed in the baking. Cinnamon rolls followed and are naturally a favorite for the kids. The hardy breakfast was intentional as we had planned to spend the day exploring and fishing East Pike Lake.

The forecast called for a sunny 70-degree day with light winds and we got just that. It’s hard to beat those bluebird days out on the water. Packing light for a day trip the mile and change across John Lake to the portage was a breeze. The landing on the John Lake side is tight but shallow enough to wet foot and navigate the rocks along the shore. From here the trail is largely uphill towards East Pike Lake at approximately 210 rods outside of a short steep descent before the end. This direction felt like 210 rods and then some. My youngest had been practicing his portaging and eagerly decided to take the Greyduck solo canoe this time across while I took the Northwind 17. We made it to the staging area on the East Pike side without incident but the family was happy to get back to the water.

We trolled our way around the lake scoping out the camp sites as we went noticing they were all occupied. After catching very little and needing a break from the sun we pulled ashore on a rocky point adjacent to the small island towards the west end of the lake. Between the trails, left behind fishing tackle, rope and wrappers it appeared as though this could have been a camp site at one time. At the very least, we could tell it was a spot used often by folks like us pulling over for lunch or a break.

Once a lunch of venison summer sausage and trail mix was finished, we got back to the fishing. Despite our best efforts of targeting large pike or that elusive BW musky East Pike Lake is said to have, we only came away with a handful of smallmouth that were quickly returned to the water. While we fished, the Mrs. enjoyed cruising around in my solo that quickly became evident she had claimed for the trip.

The return portage to John Lake heading south is noticeably easier in this direction. The boys decided to swap gear this go around. My oldest, not to be outdone by his younger brother, took the canoe claiming he would make it across without needing a break. His younger brother was more than happy to carry the fishing gear and lead Ruby through the forest.

The rest of the evening was enjoyed relaxing around camp while having soup with toasted bread and smores of course. Before calling it a night we were treated to an incredible sunset and another bug free evening.

~John Lake, East Pike Lake

Today I was not the first out of bed which I blame on my hammock. One of the only negatives I’ve discovered since switching to hammock camping is my increased comfort causes me to sleep in. Another fog covered lake without any wind was a treat to wake up to. I got the coffee rolling and breakfast pulled for the kids so I could sneak out onto the water in my solo for some fishing on the glassy surface. It didn’t take long to get into the pike. There wasn’t much size and it didn’t seem to matter what lure I cast or trolled with; they bit nonstop.

At this point I knew the boys were missing out so I returned to camp with plans to take them right back out in the Northwind and get them on the fish. Once I pulled on shore, I realized the canoe was missing and my wife was enjoying a nice quiet fire by herself. While John is not a large lake, I hadn’t realized one of the other canoes out on the water was my boys who were also eager to fish had grabbed their rods and decided to take the canoe out on their own. I paddled their way to find them both with a fish on and in need of some assistance unhooking their catches.

They were absolutely thrilled they had managed to get around on their own and catch their own fish without my help. Their faces said it all and if they weren’t hooked on fishing before they sure are now. After catching another dozen pike (with a few smallmouth and perch mixed in) we kept enough to bring back to camp for a fish taco lunch and to show mom their catch. Most of the pike were small but we did find a couple around 28” that gave a nice fight.

As this was our last full day my wife had stated she wanted to explore to the south as well. With our camp sitting at the opening to the Royal River it was an easy turn through the rocks to take a look at the water levels going down the river. We quickly realized it wasn’t an adventure we wanted to tackle and instead opted for the 60-rod portage around the rapids. The paddle through this section of the Royal River is very scenic with cliffs in all directions. Heading southeast down the river offers a great view of the Pigeon River Cliffs.

I had read that Royal Lake can be filled with wild rice but I wasn’t exactly expecting the entire lake to be a sea of manoomin. It may have been difficult to paddle through but there was a path to follow as those going to and from the North Fowl Lake entry point pass this way. After spending some time discussing how wild rice is harvested with the kids we turned for camp. Naturally, the boys had to wet a line in the river and managed to find a couple more small pike.

Our last night in the Boundary Waters was filled with another nice sunset, hot chocolate, tea and plenty of smores. They boys had done a fine job collecting and processing fire wood and wanted to stay up a bit later to enjoy the fire. With the camp tidied up, the barrel pack hung back in the tree and total darkness settling in it was time to call it a night. The overnight temperatures had been perfect for sleeping and with rain forecasted to bookend both days of our trip we had hit the window just right.

~John Lake, Royal Lake

Today was the last morning of our trip which meant the joys of breaking camp and making our way towards the truck were upon us. One last morning of fog covering the shorelines with a quick coffee and hot chocolate were not to be missed. With only a short paddle to the exit it felt odd to approach a crane and work trucks that we had not noticed any sound from during our time away that were working on the bridge. By Sunday, the remainder of the dock at the landing had been removed and the crews were gone.

With the truck and family packed up we traveled down the Arrowhead trail to get back on 61. As soon as I hit the tar, I could feel the truck pulling and knew our trip wasn’t done with us just yet. The boys got a crash course in changing a tire that must’ve occurred somewhere along the Arrowhead Trail. It didn’t take long before we were on our way with a stop planned in Grand Marais to assess the spare and grab some lunch.

Without further issue and some treats enjoyed out along Artist’s Point it was time get back home. Gear cleaning and getting back to the office and school would be waiting for us. We may not have gone far on this adventure, but we had accomplished everything I had hoped for. The boys are starting to take on larger tasks without prompting and getting out exploring the wilderness on their own. It made me proud to see they had grabbed a canoe to explore (with pfds), took ownership of collecting firewood, setup their own tent/hammock and were the first to hop in the water to guide the canoes around shallow obstacles when needed. They’re already planning their next trip back.