Boundary Waters Trip Reports, Blog, BWCA, BWCAW, Quetico Park

BWCA Entry Point, Route, and Trip Report Blog

May 05 2024

Entry Point 30 - Lake One

Lake One entry point allows overnight paddle only. This entry point is supported by Kawishiwi Ranger Station near the city of Ely, MN. The distance from ranger station to entry point is 21 miles. Access is a canoe landing at Lake One.

Number of Permits per Day: 13
Elevation: 1230 feet
Latitude: 47.9391
Longitude: -91.4792
My son Remy and I, and my friend Keith and his son Charlie put our canoes into Lake one at 9:30 Monday morning after dropping off a car at the Snowbank Lake landing. Lake One can be tricky to navigate. On our way to Lake Two we turned East too early and ended up paddling about a mile out of our way into a dead-end bay before we realized our mistake. We blamed the fact that Lake One was split between Fisher Maps #10 and #4 for our error. If the entire lake had been visible at once on a single map, we would not have made the wrong turn. Once we got back on course we portaged the 30 rods into a pond and then portaged the 40 rods into Lake Two. The weather was nice, and there was a bit of a tail wind out of the West. We stopped for lunch on the shore of Lake Two. After lunch we canoed through the North end of Lake Three and into Lake Four. We stopped for the night at a campsite on the West shore of Lake Four, just North of the channel heading toward Hudson Lake. We had to battle swarms of mosquitoes as we set up the tents. We then had a nice refreshing swim. Because we had brought steaks along for the first night, we didn't go fishing.

On Tuesday morning we had a bacon and eggs breakfast then packed up camp and headed out in our canoes. As we canoed past our campsite, we realized that Remy & I had left our hammocks pitched between trees. We landed again and quickly packed them up. Once again we had beautiful weather. We paddled East and completed 3 short portages before entering Hudson Lake. The 105 rod portage into Lake Insula was exhausting! Lake Insula is a large gorgeous lake broken up by multiple islands and penninsulas. We had lunch at a campsite on a large island just East of Hudson Lake. It felt like we had a tail wind as we were heading East, and then as we turned North it seemed like the wind shifted and was at our backs once again. We navigated Lake Insula flawlessly and camped for the night on the island just West of Williamson Island. After setting up the tents and a refreshing swim, Remy & I got back into the canoe and tried to catch some fish. We had no luck! At 9PM that night, just as we were going to bed, a thunderstorm rolled through. That night I was awakened several times by the loud croaking of bullfrogs from the shallows around our island. What noisy neighbors!

By Wednesday morning the weather had cleared, but the wind was now coming from the Northwest, pretty much in our faces. We paddled to the North end of Lake Insula and tackled the largest portage of our trip. The 180 rod walk to Kiana Lake actually seemed easier than the 105 rod carry into Lake Insula. We headed onward into Thomas Lake where we really started feeling the headwind. We finally made it to the campsite just Northeast of the portage into Thomas Pond in time for lunch. After lunch we proceeded across Thomas Pond and into Thomas Creek after hiking across the famous Kekekabic Trail. We managed to easily run the rapids in Thomas Creek and avoid the 2 short portages. We camped for the night on Hatchet Lake at the northern campsite. It was cool and windy, so we didn't swim. There was lots of threatening weather going by to the North of us, but we stayed dry. After supper we canoed back to Thomas Creek to fish and look for moose. No luck on either count, but we did see a beaver swimmming.

The weather was nice again Thursday morning, but the wind was out of the West which was the direction we were heading. We portaged into Ima Lake and canoed across it. Before portaging into Jordan Lake, we watched a bald eagle sitting in a tree get harrassed repeatedly by a seagull. The narrow channel leading into Jordan Lake is quite beautiful. It is narrow like a river with big rock outcroppings. We paddled across Jordan, Cattyman, Adventure, and Jitterbug Lakes. We found the Eastern campsite on Ahsub Lake taken, so we camped at the Western campsite which had a great place for swimming in front of it. There was a very brave loon in front of the campsite who didn't seem to mind if we got close to it. We tried our luck at fishing, but only caught 1 smallmouth which was too small to eat. Between 5:00 and 7:30 that evening we saw a number of canoes heading across Ahsub Lake from Disappointment Lake to Jitterbug Lake. We weren't sure where they were planning to camp, but it was getting late.

On Friday we awoke again to good weather. We paddled the length of Disappointment Lake and portaged into to Parent Lake and then on to Snowbank Lake. It was July 4th, and as we entered Snowbank Lake the sounfd of firecrackers reminded us we weren't in the wilderness anaymore. After a brief splash war on our way across Snowbank, we made it to the landing and our car was still there. What a great trip!

Crab Lake: A Jewel

by Boppa
Trip Report

Entry Date: August 26, 2007
Entry Point: Crab Lake and Cummings from Burntside Lake
Number of Days: 6
Group Size: 2

Trip Introduction:
PROLOGUE - This was a return trip for us to the BWCA via Ely and North Country Canoe Outfitters, although this trip was just 2 of us (wife and me; our son and daughter-in-law were home with a new baby). The drive from the airport brought remembered sights and went quickly. Once at NCCO, we reconnected with owners John & Kathy. After watching the film (seemed better this year?), we went over our route in detail with John who provided his expertise on sites, portage info and fishing. Then it was off to Ely where we stopped at The Great Outdoors for an introduction to leeches and to thank Jim for much good advice found on this site. Jim was out but Brian was a great help. Being a former New Englander, he recognized my adversion to hooking leeches and explained that I (still living in New England)was used to a different species (blood suckers). Brian gave a demo on leech hooking technique and then I gave it a try; I left feeling not quite proficient but at least I had an idea of how to handle the bait. Next stop was to Mike's where we picked up our beverages in plastic containers. Dan helped us again this year and asked if we were in town for the Blues Festival. Bette remarked since I was spending so much time in the bourbon aisle, tapping my foot, it was a natural assumption. After leaving Mike's, we headed to the Ely Steakhouse (our 1st visit). Mike was the host and led us to the bar where we waited for a table. We were seated within 20 minutes (not bad for a Saturday night) and had a terrific prime rib dinner - generous portions and nicely done. Then it was back to our cabin where our packs were waiting. Mitch and Jessie had done a great job with equipment and food. All packed and ready, we took a walk to the lake to enjoy a nightcap and the sounds of loons.

Day 1 of 6


Sunday, August 26, 2007 - A beautiful, sunny, cool and calm morning. We were in the van, headed to Burntside Lake, before 7:00 AM. John had remembered my request for a Wenonah Boundary Water canoe. We put in at the public boat launch and headed across the lake to the Crab Lake portage. We were about 1/2 way across when Bette and I had our 1st differing opinion on which direction to take, when a passing motor boat with 2 fishermen cordially pointed us in the right direction to the portage. Big lakes, and Burntside is a very big lake by Connecticut standards, are not my forte. After paddling in the direction indicated and following the landmarks John had provided, we were having our 2nd difference of opinion on direction when we heard hammering coming from a cabin on a small island. We pulled up along side the shore and politely asked for directions to the portage entrance. The owners came down to talk with us and also offer coffee. We spent 5 minutes chatting with them, learning they were retired from Yonkers, NY and were fixing up the cabin, a summer retreat. They pointed us to the portage entrance, not 500 yards away - very visible, with a portage sign! It helps to be looking in the right direction.

We quickly unloaded and began the trek. It has grown to 420 rods (latest Fisher map)and while not tough, the beginning requires your attention; the 2nd half is just a walk (a long walk) in the woods. We doubled portaged and were done in under 2 hours. Once on Crab Lake, we headed for an arm of the lake where John had identified a site he thought we would like. On the way, we noted that the first 2 sites we passed were occupied. We found the site John had marked on our map and decided to spend the night. We had originally intended to get to Little Crab on Day 1 but this was a great site; it fit us perfectly, with good views and privacy. Also, truth be told, we were tired and ready to relax. We found a great landing area and were soon ashore and setting up camp. Our first night dinner was a tasty stove cooked steak (fire ban was in effect), along with bourbon for me and chardonnay for Bette, while we reflected on a wonderful day 1.

The winds had grown stronger during the day but nothing we have not experienced. That night however, I did wake up around midnight to a howling wind. I guess I let my imagination run a bit wild because I got up and put on my pants and shoes, made sure Bet's pants/shoes were handy (she slept through the whole experience)and sat in the darkness of the tent listening for cracking tree limbs. I had an escape route and cover picked out (2 large boulders to the right of the tent)but fortunately nothing dramatic happened. By 2:00AM the winds were diminishing and I fell back to sleep; awoke at 4:00 - the winds were gone and I slept til 6:30.

 



Day 2 of 6


Monday, August 27, 2007 - The day was cloudy and quite still. Thunderstorms were predicted so we set up our Cook tarp and went fishing. While I was no speed demon getting the leeches on the jig I managed, and caught a small mouth, and then another, and another; they were all from 10-15". Wanting to explore the lake, we began trolling a big lipped silver rapala and caught inside of an hour (all between 15-21") on 4 lb. test. Now that was fun! Definitely one side of this arm of Crab held fish and there was a hot spot I was able to return to later in the week and continue to find fish.

But for now, we had to turn back as thunder could be heard. We got back to camp to secure the campsite and wait out the rain. We cooked under the tarp and went to sleep to the patter of rain drops. We do enjoy the tranquility that a gentle rain brings at night. It certainly was a well needed rain but not nearly enough to end the fire ban.

 



Day 3 of 6


Tuesday, August 28, 2007 - We got up at 7:00 to thick fog. Quiet prevailed as we ate french toast, bacon and coffee; a kingfisher was nearby, working for his breakfast as well.

With our Day 2 explorations shortened due to storms, we wanted to continue paddling around, also letting the gear dry. We were so pleased with our site, we were not in a hurry to move. After playing with a rambunctious squirrel, using bread on a fishing line, we took off for the day. I fished a little cove with good success; both northern pike and small mouth were hitting my lure. We then paddled around Crab to check out open sites, an activity we enjoy. As most sites were unoccupied, we were able to get out and look around as we pleased. We took notes on several sites and had lunch at one in the west branch. We did not see any paddlers and the 2 sites occupied when we passed on Day 1 were now vacant. The fishing continued to be good although nothing of any size. By this time, the winds had built so it became a chore to paddle. We returned to camp, feeling that our touring had given us a good understanding of the lake.

A nice evening, with temps down to 43. The chill sent us to the tent and warmth of our bags; we slept well.

 



Day 4 of 6


Wednesday, August 29, 2007 - We woke to a nice, dry but windy day. We decided to do something we had not done before - stay for a 4th night at the same site. Our reasoning - we had yet to see another person, our site was awesome and we could day trip to other locations without moving camp. So we set off to explore Cummings, with a packed lunch and keen eyes for new sights. The portage to Little Crab was quite easy, with a gentle sandy landing area. From a distance, we could see a tent on the one site on Little Crab but no sign of people or a canoe. We paddled to the outlet to Korb River and thoroughly enjoyed the gentle ride. There was little wind and the lily pads and views were terrific. We were surprised that we did not encounter any moose but there was of evidence of animal activity (likely beaver and muskrat?)at various sections of the shore. Eventually we came to a good size beaver dam, unloaded and carried around it. When we reached Korb Lake, we saw that the single campsite was occupied and saw a single person in a canoe, fishing by the shore of the camp. This was the first person we had seen in 3 days, although we did not make direct contact. Once on Korb, we were again exposed to wind so decided to return to Crab rather than taking the portage to Cummings. We retraced our route, took numerous pictures and stopped at a site on Crab for a late but enjoyable lunch. As we trolled back to our site, we saw an eagle soar but no other paddlers; the wind was at our back as we headed to camp.

Back at camp, around 4:30, we took turns taking a sun shower. Then I sat, fairly clean, with a cigar in one hand and a rum and mango tea in the other. All days should close so nicely. As we called it a day, we noted a full moon and a chill in the air.

 



Day 5 of 6


Thursday, August 30, 2007 - In the morning, the temp on our pack thermometers said 37 degrees but it was sunny and no wind. Pancakes, bacon and coffee were enjoyed. We decided to explore the eastern leg of Crab a bit more and other points of interest. I have often wondered how camp sites were chosen. Was there a formula or plan that used certain criteria? There were several locations that we thought looked like perfect sites, but were not designated. I even landed and checked out a few close up. Some seemed like ideal spots, even better than other designated ones. I guess the latrine location is probably critical and is likely a factor, but what about distance from other sites, tent pad spots and landings? Just some idle wonderings.

Explore we did, stopping at numerous sites, looking them over and noting pluses/minuses (it is a favorite past time of ours). I fished certain areas, with moderate success; before long, the wind was building and it became a chore to paddle into to. We found the portage to Clark Lake, then turned around and went with the wind all the way back to camp. Once at camp, I got restless so decided to head back out, drifting with the wind, using jig and leech. Small mouth again cooperated but nothing of any size. I headed back and started to break down tarp, etc since we planned an early return to Ely the next morning. It was another cool night; tonight we missed a camp fire.

 



Day 6 of 6


Friday, August 31, 2007 - We were up early, head lamps on, granola eaten; camp was soon dismantled and we were off. We portaged back to the entry on Burntside. this portage seems to be growing as I have seen it listed at 360, 390, 420 rods since it was rerouted. I am glad we did it before it gets any longer.

The wind had built up again but we were a little stronger and now accustomed to it; the paddle back to the public boat launch was uneventful. We found familiar landmarks so didn't have any directional disagreements on the return. We did however have a nice feeling of accomplishment.

Mitch arrived in the van, right on schedule; we loaded and took off for NCCO, with a really cold beer in hand.

Back at NCCO, we showered, changed, visited with John and then went into Ely, where we spent a few relaxing days at the Grand Ely Lodge, along with visiting the Dorothy Moulter Museum, the International Wolfe Center and just being tourists. While a weeks worth of paddling may have burned a lot of calories, we compensated by visiting and enjoying a number of Ely's food establishments.

While there, we had a great visit with "The Great Outdoors", whom I finally got to meet and thank him for previous advice. He is very informative and gave us another, more scenic route, to get us back to the Minneapolis/St. Paul airport. We enjoyed the route which took us through Finland and south towards Duluth.

A great trip for us. Our return in 2008 is ensured.

POST TRIP MUSINGS - 1. This was the 1st time we kept to 1 site (base camped); although this site was perfect for us, we would probably limit our stay to no more than 3 nights in the future. 2. While I will always prefer a camp fire for the evening, the fire ban did not lessen our BWCA experience; the lack of an open fire has become less of an issue for me. 3. The wind was a big consideration for us throughout 2007; whether in the BWCA, Vermont or the Adirondacks, we had more wind than in prior years. For me, wind is more troublesome than rain. 4. While we enjoy solitude, no one got to see the BWCA cap that Bette wore and the tee shirt I wore. 5. Finally, a sincere thanks to so many on this board for your advice and suggestions. Much appreciated!

 


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