Neither as cold or foggy this morning. After breakfast we decide to try and make it to Cummings lake today. The lake has a bit of walleye chop cutting across from the south so we plan on keeping the canoe very close to shore in the event things worsen. The interminable large boulders just below the surface close to shore keep us on our toes. After we pass the last campsite on the western shore there is a succession of small bays. The wind & waves have diminished so we deviate a bit from out original plan and cut across from point to point. Peering into one of the bays as we paddled by we notice something in the bay that will require closer inspection. It's a young bull moose feeding on some aquatic vegetation. He is quite skiddish and retreats towards the sanctuary of the surrounding spruce forest before we can get a really good look at him. [paragraph break]

A short time later, we scare up a couple of whitetailed deer but only get a glimpse of white flags dashing through the woods. Though it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb? We find the portage to Cummings without any trouble. Other than the 2 mile length we really don't know too much about this portage. While being in good shape is a definite plus. I am a firm believer that overcoming portages is more about having the proper mindset & keeping a positive attitude. We went in through Morgan lake last fall and conquered the Misquah ~ Little trout & Kiskadinna ~ Davis portages amoung others. Feeling confident that those tough portages tempered us enough to overcome whatever challenges this trail might present. We had no one to disappoint but ourselves, so if we had to turn back? So be it.[paragraph break]

I grabbed the canoe & our daypack while Vickie carried Aurora across. The trail starts out with a long moderate gradual climb. Intermittant rays of sunlight would penetrate through the canopy of multi colored leaves to the forest floor. I imagined the leaves floating to the ground in front of me were rose petals being thrown up in the air from a basket by a flower girl walking just in front of me. [paragraph break]

I half expected this trail to be a little used, overgrown death march. It came as a pleasant surprise to find a wide open well worn trail with a minimum of troublesome roots & rocks usually associated with most portage trails. There were a few particularly scenic spots atop some rock knobs where the forest opened up. Rock cairns were placed to show the way, but weren't really necessary. Almost seemed as if someone had shot the moss up in the air & then it landed in globs on the granite. Making the scene even more picturesque was the reindeer moss that was growing on top seemed to "frost" much of the green moss.[paragraph break]

At about the mid point there was a long boardwalk to negotiate. Some of the boards were a bit loose & in a few spots the ground beneath was unstable. During high water, I guessed this area might be underwater.[paragraph break]

Naturally doing a portage of this length we were inclined to take a few "poses" along the way. Aurora was a bit warm & hungry but otherwise was doing just fine. Of course she is too young to really know any better? But, seeing her taking such great pleasure while in the out of doors filled my heart with unspeakable joy. I wouldn't trade her smile for gold. Hopefully we were laying a solid foundation of outdoor enjoyment for her? In the final analysis the portage was across an excellent, very scenic, trail. There are some small hills & the mentioned boardwalk. But, in the end barring windfalls, overall length is the biggest obstacle to overcome. [paragraph break]

Certainly it was a relief to finally see Cummings lake. But, peering out between the 2 large red pines, that serve as a gateway on the Cummings end, it was a bit unsettling to see the sky had clouded over & wind has a renewed vigor. We hadn't come this far just to turn back now. The campsite on the east side near the exit to the bay we were in was supposed to be a 5 star? We decided to pull in there and hope the weather didn't worsen. Unfortunately it was occupied as was the island site straight south. We paddled west across the entrance of the bay to check the island site there. Hoping we wouldn't have to paddle into the main body of the lake. Fortunately, it was unoccupied so with a sense of relief we paddled up and claimed it as our lunch spot & safe harbor if the weather worsened.[paragraph break]

The long portage had seriously depleted our water supply. Our new Sawyer gravity filter was back in camp on Big Moose. Not being totally comfortable dipping from the shallow bay on Cummings, Vickie set about boiling some water. We even stumbled across a live well someone had constructed to set our water bottles in to cool. [paragraph break]

The kitchen area at this site was exquisite. In fact our temporary island sanctuary proved to be beautifully accomodating. Vickie & I took turns exploring the island while the other keep an eye on dinner & Aurora. I found that the entire island was easily explored and offered pleasing vistas in all directions. EALIS-111011-133419.JPG" align="left" > [paragraph break] Fortunately the wind had calmed and the sun was back out. Aurora picked a bad time to have a blowout. Is there ever a good one? Vickie had packed an extra outfit but, only one. We figured it was better to be safe than sorry. Not wanting to take any chances on the weather turning on us again we decided to curtail our exploration of Cummings lake. We finish off our soup, the remainder of the banana nut bread, grab our water bottles, and paddle back towards the portage to Big Moose.[paragraph break]

I thought we did pretty good coming back? Aurora slept the whole way. Even though we took 3 breaks, we still made it back across the portage in just under an hour. It was an idyllic evening to paddle. We contemplated heading back to camp up the east shore in a counter clockwise direction. But, Aurora had awoken and was beginning to fuss. So we retraced our route from this morning. [paragraph break]

Once back in camp Aurora was constantly wanting to eat. For the first time on this trip she was becoming inconsolable. This went on for about a half hour or so? Looking back now, I think she was telling us it had been a long day and, she was tired and needed to eat extra. I guess I couldn't blame her? Although both Vickie & I felt the eventual tradeoff had been worth it. For one of the first times in her young life, Aurora had slept through the night once she was put down. The wonders of wilderness![paragraph break]

While Aurora slept through the night, Vickie was awoken by some strange noises outside. It didn't take her long to wake me & I quickly agreed there was "something" out there. After being awoken it took me a few moments to regain my "bearings" as we each speculated on what was making that awful noise. It turned out to be a bull moose snorting & bellering just up the shoreline from our camp. Neither of us had the will power to go out and investigate further. We just hoped it wouldn't come trapsing through our site and inadvertently trample or rip things apart. He didn't, and we slept peacefully the rest of the night.  Big Moose Lake, Cummings Lake

A cold, very foggy morning. Our little alarm clock had us up early today. No fires allowed in the morning, so I linger in the tent and entertain Aurora for awhile. The lantern is put to use keeping the inside of the tent warm. We brought a few extra propane tanks along for just this purpose. Vickie braves the crisp morning air to get her coffee brewing. [paragraph break]

After a late breakfast I begin the search for firewood. One nice aspect of a red pine forest is that exploration is unimpeded by the underbrush which doesn't grow well in the pine duff. Of course finding legal firewood is the drawback. Unfortunately red pine & birch are the predominate candidates. Downed red pines are the polar opposite of downed birch. Birch retains moisture and rots, while the red pine will dry rot and turn into useless powder if allowed to sit too long. The trick is to find them before they start to rot. I have to wander a fair distance back into the woods before finding some suitable wood.[paragraph break]

The fog & mist are hanging tough yet this morning keeping the sun at bay and a chill in the air. So once I drag my findings back to camp I begin to employ the old adage, "If you cut your own firewood it'll warm you up twice." Even though we can't legally start a fire until 6:00 p.m. I get things ready to go in the firegrate. [paragraph break]

It's nearly noon before the sun finally overtakes the fog. Vickie wants to explore the chain of small islands just out from our site. We set Aurora in her pea pod out on the rock shelf while we pack up a few things for our day trip. The pea pod is essentially a mini collapsible tent. Complete with it's own air mattress. It fits inside our tent at night & we can set it up about camp during the day. If it's too chilly we throw a couple of blankets over the top to help retain heat. Otherwise when it's warmer it has plenty of screen to permit free air flow. Really an indispensable item.[paragraph break]

Paddling conditions are excellent as we make our way over to the island. We find a decent spot to land on the east side. Exploring the whole of the island is quite easy as it is covered in mostly pine duff, moss, and plenty of exposed rock. As anyone who has traveled in canoe country can attest; plants & trees find the most unlikely, seemingly inhospitable, places to grow. Their root systems seem to grow around the rock much like an eagles talon clutching a fish that it has just extracted from its watery haunts. I never cease to marvel in wonderment when running across this scene. [paragraph break]

As we pressed on to some of the other islands, it was impossible not to notice the numerous, incredibly large, rocks scattered about. Some on shore and many in the water above and below the surface. Coming around the last of the islands we noticed a canoe at the portage landing coming in from the Moose river. They wound up heading south. Since the weather was ideal for paddling we decided to loop east around the northern bay then head back to our campsite. Along the way we stopped to check out the 2 campsites there. Both had rocky landings and were situated in nice groves of red pine with excellent views to the south. The northern most one even had a neat rock ledge which provided seating around the firegrate. It appeared the people we had seen last night did not camp here. They must've taken out at the Big Moose lake hiking trail and portaged out from there.[paragraph break]

Around the perimeter of the lake there were alot of other enticing spots that looked like inviting areas that be could easily explored. The varied colors of autumn also made staying out on the water a memorable experience. And our stomachs were telling us it was getting to be about supper time so we kept paddling on towards camp. [paragraph break]

Enjoyed a hearty meal of wild rice soup supplementED WITH SOME CHICKEN. LATER THE AMBiance of a nice fire warmed us as the temperature dropped after the sun disappeared over the horizon.[paragraph break]

We use a blue barrel to haul & store our food. We don't hang or drag it away from camp. But, we do put our pots & pans on top of the lid after sealing it up for the night. Thinking that the noise will likely scare the animal away that knocked them off and, also, alert us to their presence in camp. Not long after we retired for the evening there was a commotion outside. One of the lids had slid across a pot. There wasn't even a trace of wind so we knew it had to be an animal of some sort. Of course in my mind I naturally presumed it was Sasquatch or something even more vile. Of course it wasn't all that horrifying? As it ended up being our resident mink just curiously nosing around. Apparently he found nothing of much interest? And left camp without disturbing us any further. [paragraph break] Big Moose Lake

While we may have forgotten the steaks? One meal that didn't get neglected on this trip was breakfast. Vickie had brought one of those plastic cartons full of eggs. Those coupled with plenty of bacon, breakfast sausage, & potatoes ensured that we ate like royalty each morning. [paragraph break]

Today we wanted to do some hiking. Yesterdays adventure had taken quite a bit out of Aurora. We didn't want to over do it again today. So a choice needed to be made. Hike the Big Moose lake hiking trail, or the portage trail to Duck lake. Since the hiking trail was accessible by vehicle we choose the portage to Duck, reasoning that it would be easier to revisit the hiking trail at a later date without having to paddle in. [paragraph break]

Aurora was sleeping after breakfast and we waited for her to wake up before heading out. I tried casting a small rapala from shore to pass the time. This tactic proved no more effective than the leeches were a few nights earlier. Of course our resident mink was quite active and I spent more time watching him. [paragraph break]

Once again it was a great day for a paddle. We trolled on our way to the Duck lake portage. Vickie hooked into a decent bass that put up the classic fight smallmouths are famous for. She got it up to the boat a couple times but since we hadn't brought the net it eventually spit the hook. We got a good look, it was a 2 plus pound fish that we would've let go anyways. Though, Vickie lamented that she would've liked to have gotten a photo. Especially since it was as close as we came to catching a fish on this trip.[paragraph break]

The landing for the Duck lake portage was quite a contrast to what we'd been accustomed to seeing around the perimeter of this lake. A beautiful sandy beach stretched out along the shoreline. There were fresh moose tracks on the beach & out in the water. Also, a beaver had evidently been here as well, & had partially chewed through a nice sized birch tree. eft" > [paragraph break]

Wisely Vickie had brought extra water along today. She stashed the extra water bottles in the woods near the canoe before we left. That way we would have water upon our return.[paragraph break]

This path in no way resembled the Cummings trail. There was an immediate gradual incline. But the trail, throughout much of it's length, was riddled with roots & rocks. On the bright side, the fresh spruce boughs and brush cuttings indicated that a portage crew had just been through. We deduced that was who we seen on our first night on Big Moose. [paragraph break]

There was a nice mix of trees along the way, but pines were the dominant species. The trail had several short rocky ups & downs. Moose & wolf tracks could clearly be seen at the muddy spots. At about the half way point we crossed Duck creek. The creek was bone dry and we essentially had to hopscotch from boulder to boulder to get to the other side. Fortunately it was only about 12 -15 feet across and the boulders were stable. There was a little pond just downstream from the crossing, that provided a scenic contrast from the forested wilderness we had just passed through. [paragraph break]

Once past the creek the trail reverted back to much the same as previous. Then, about 70 rods before Duck lake, the trail dropped down steeeply to a mucky bog. Vickie insisted we press on to the lake, so forward we went. The trail was wet and mushy but, could have been alot worse if not for the recent dryness & lack of rain. The closer we got to the lake the more you could tell we were walking on floating ground. Finally we were at the shores (if you want to call it that?) of Duck lake! I think we did bogwalker proud? [paragraph break]

There were a few small rock knobs across the way, but Duck was mostly a weedy, swampy lake. By the lakeshore it felt as if we were standing on only a few inches of roots & grass. It was interesting to see & experience a whole different ecosystem. [paragraph break]

It seemed like 3 times the work trying to walk across the bog. We climbed the hill at the far end before stopping for a break. It was good to be on terra firma again! Vickie complained that was tough on her calves. I had to agree. Having now walked this trail in it's entirety; I say with confidence that while this portage is incredibly scenic, it is absolutely involved in the discussion of what qualifies as the toughest portage in the BWCAW. We were glad to only be hiking it.[paragraph break]

We stopped near Duck creek on the way back so Vickie could feed & change Aurora. While I explored the upstream side of the creek. [paragraph break]

On the way back we passed by a few grouse without them flying up unexpectedly and stopping our hearts. All in all this was a wonderfully scenic hike with varied terrain and ecosystems to negotiate & contemplate. About as nice of a hike as one could hope for. But, once again I believe as a portage, this would make most anyones list of toughest maintained trails in the BWCAW.[paragraph break]

Back on Big Moose there was a canoe out fishing the point near where Vickie had hooked one earlier. Also someone had claimed the campsite nearest the portage and were still setting up as we passed by. We followed the contour of the lake back to camp.[paragraph break]

Chicken fajitas for supper. Once Aurora is down for the night we sit out and enjoy our last fire. By this point in the trip we have figured out where & when the night sky will light up. A beaver occassionally shatters the silence with a not too distant tail slap on the water. Although a welcome surprise greets us tonight as we are watching the northern sky; being treated to a brilliant display of aurora borealis. Vickie & I share a warm embrace as we marvel at our daughters' namesake displaying it's grandeur. Unfortunately our crude photography skills don't allow us to capture an image that will do them justice. But it's a very special, if all too brief, final evening to our family trip. [paragraph break] Big Moose Lake, Duck Lake

It appears it is setting up to be yet another glorious day. Aurora sleeps in her pea pod while Vickie & I begin to tear down and pack up. We set out to retrace our route back to the entry point. Thankfully it is a mostly uneventful, yet pleasant, journey back. [paragraph break]

After loading up and changing into some dry socks and shoes, we head for The Boathouse in Ely for hot sandwiches and cold drinks. Later, we browse some of the downtown shops before heading back to my parents place for the night.[paragraph break]

In the final analysis this trip did not provide the greatest fishing, best campsite, most solitude, stunning scenery or wildlife encounters. But, I can say with confidence, we still created lasting memories for a lifetime. For me as a parent, seeing Aurora enjoying herself in this setting is beyond description. Certainly there were bumps in the road along the way. But, none that came close to shaking our confidence in our approach. Aurora has proven to be a real trooper. I mean, how many people can honestly claim to have crossed a 2 mile portage before they were 3 months old? If I have to do some triple portaging for awhile? I feel it is a small sacrifice to make for a hopeful lifetime canoe tripping partner. Perhaps, one day in the not so distant future, Aurora will be taking us along on her trips? And changing our diapers & feeding us! Needless to say, we are looking forward to planning our trip for next spring. [paragraph break]

It appears it is setting up to be yet another glorious day. Aurora sleeps in her pea pod while Vickie & I begin to tear down and pack up. We set out to retrace our route back to the entry point. Thankfully it is a mostly uneventful, yet pleasant, journey back. [paragraph break]

After loading up and changing into some dry socks and shoes, we head for The Boathouse in Ely for hot sandwiches and cold drinks. Later, we browse some of the downtown shops before heading back to my parents place for the night.[paragraph break]

In the final analysis this trip did not provide the greatest fishing, best campsite, most solitude, stunning scenery or wildlife encounters. But, I can say with confidence, we still created lasting memories for a lifetime. For me as a parent, seeing Aurora enjoying herself in this setting is beyond description. Certainly there were bumps in the road along the way. But, none that came close to shaking our confidence in our approach. Aurora has proven to be a real trooper. I mean, how many people can honestly claim to have crossed a 2 mile portage before they were 3 months old? If I have to do some triple portaging for awhile? I feel it is a small sacrifice to make for a hopeful lifetime canoe tripping partner. Perhaps, one day in the not so distant future, Aurora will be taking us along on her trips? And changing our diapers & feeding us! Needless to say, we are looking forward to planning our trip for next spring. [paragraph break]